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T-Series & Prewar Forum

What did you do with your T-Series today?

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Hawkmonster Avatar
Hawkmonster Joe Policastro
Flagstaff, Arizona, USA   USA
Width is 1 1/4".

Pencil shows where I would put a extra holder for the MG.

See pictures.

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peter14222 Avatar
peter14222 Peter Gilvarry
Buffalo, NY, USA   USA
Thanks, looks like the minimum is 42 and 30 inches respectively.

Time to get the tape measure and take a few measurements.

Peter

shoalsgary Avatar
shoalsgary Gary Simpson
Killen, Alabama, USA   USA
1954 MG TF "Junior"
1954 MG TF
Mine were hood straps...

In reply to # 3543928 by peter14222 The straps will be touching the chrome on the rack, not the paint.

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Ann M Avatar
Ann M Ann Murdock
Bay Shore, New York, USA   USA
1955 MG TF 1500 "My TF"
What a beautiful day here on Long Island New York, sunny, blue sky, puffy white clouds, perfect day for a top down drive. Took my TF out for a long parkway drive nice and steady at 50 mph. Wish I was more mechanically inclined but TF Is running fine after the winter in the garage. Makes me very happy. Happy summer to all. Ann M


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Nick 38TA Avatar
Nick 38TA Nick Thompson
Hull, East Yorkshire, UK   GBR
1938 MG TA "The Beast"
Sunday 02.07.17 Took the TA to Doncaster show - about 800 vehicles of all varieties.Well organised. About 124 miles all in. One of the front mudguard supports broke - cracked through at tight bend after about 6000 miles. Need to make a new one. Made temporary repair at the show.

Port Aransas, Texas, USA   USA
1952 MG TD
Nick,

by mud guard, I suppose you are referring to the cycle fenders you have up front?

How did you fix the break so far from home?

Regards
Adios

Rick

fireman435 David Trapp
Lexington, Kentucky, USA   USA
Installed rebuilt engine in the chassis of our TF 1500 today! Now the fun really starts!

David

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Nick 38TA Avatar
Nick 38TA Nick Thompson
Hull, East Yorkshire, UK   GBR
1938 MG TA "The Beast"
To Rick Pratt,
Hi Rick.
Not hard on my TA. As you say the front left cycle wing.
On my car the supports are 40mm x 3mm flat aluminium strips bent to suit. At the bottom of this support the flat is bent around a bolt. The bolt is parallel to the chassis side member and runs through a hole in each of 2 cleats which are in turn bolted through the chassis.Where the aluminium flat had been bent around the bolt, the flat had presumably had a surface crack which gradually cracked right through leaving just 'part hook' end.
This would not hold so I found in my toolbox a screw driver that would fill the gap between the hook and the chassis. The movement had also caused a spade type electrical connector to break, stopping the side light (mounted on top of the wing) to stop working - this was easily replaced with items I always carry. That got me home with no further problems.
I'll check the rest now I have been warned!

tmorehouse Avatar
tmorehouse Silver Member Tom Morehouse
Eastford, Connecticut, USA   USA
1953 MG TD "Gordo"
1958 Nash Rambler
1959 Triumph TR3A
1960 Mercedes-Benz 190b    & more
Today I drove up and down the driveway a couple of times. First time "driving" since the car arrived last week. Still checking things out before registering with DMV.

Engine starts immediately. No misfires or backfires. Revs up fast without hesitation. No smoke except a little right at startup. Clutch is *very* tight - I have to learn it so I don't keep screeching tires in the gravel. Haven't used a clutch since I had the TR3.

Brakes don't pull or lock. Interesting "auxiliary brake fluid reservoir" up near battery. I learned that was an old technique to avoid having to pull up the carpet and remove the filler plug to check and fill the m/c reservoir.



The extra reservoir (circled in red) is just a brake fluid container, with a hose out the bottom, feeding into the m/c reservoir under the floor board. As long as the upper reservoir has fluid, the lower reservoir won't get low.​ I verified that the fluid isn't DOT 5 (silicone), and topped it up with DOT 3.

Gears change easily, and "snap" into place without needing to hunt for each gear except for Reverse. Reverse is tough to get into - sometimes have to use clutch to engage it. First gear isn't synchro.

I never saw speedometer needle move. I already determined tachometer doesn't work.. I'm at OSV again tomorrow, but later in the week I'll do some speedometer diagnosing.

All the lights are working now, all the gauges (oil pressure, coolant temp, ammeter) work. Turn signal indicator blinks along with actual turn signals, generator light comes on with ignition, goes off when engine runs, but sometimes comes on at idle. Don't know if the "low fuel" indicator light works. Tires are probably from the 1970s, but have all kept their 25 psi since the car arrived last week. Spare tired is totally unpressurized; it's an original 1953 Dunlop tube type. Others are all Canadian Tire "Safety-99" 5.60x15, four ply bias nylon, tubeless.

So far so good. I'll get the car registered with DMV in a few weeks.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-07-04 06:08 AM by tmorehouse.

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shoalsgary Avatar
shoalsgary Gary Simpson
Killen, Alabama, USA   USA
1954 MG TF "Junior"
1954 MG TF
Change tires. Rubber compound hardens with age and gets VERY slippery on wet roads.

In reply to # 3544938 by tmorehouse Today I drove up and down the driveway a couple of times. First time "driving" since the car arrived last week. Still checking things out before registering with DMV.

Engine starts immediately. No misfires or backfires. Revs up fast without hesitation. No smoke except a little right at startup. Clutch is *very* tight - I have to learn it so I don't keep screeching tires in the gravel. Haven't used a clutch since I had the TR3.

Brakes don't pull or lock. Interesting "auxiliary brake fluid reservoir" up near battery. I learned that was an old technique to avoid having to pull up the carpet and remove the filler plug to check and fill the m/c reservoir.



The extra reservoir (circled in red) is just a brake fluid container, with a hose out the bottom, feeding into the m/c reservoir under the floor board. As long as the upper reservoir has fluid, the lower reservoir won't get low.​ I verified that the fluid isn't DOT 5 (silicone), and topped it up with DOT 3.

Gears change easily, and "snap" into place without needing to hunt for each gear except for Reverse. Reverse is tough to get into - sometimes have to use clutch to engage it. First gear isn't synchro.

I never saw speedometer needle move. I already determined tachometer doesn't work.. I'm at OSV again tomorrow, but later in the week I'll do some speedometer diagnosing.

All the lights are working now, all the gauges (oil pressure, coolant temp, ammeter) work. Turn signal indicator blinks along with actual turn signals, generator light comes on with ignition, goes off when engine runs, but sometimes comes on at idle. Don't know if the "low fuel" indicator light works. Tires are probably from the 1970s, but have all kept their 25 psi since the car arrived last week. Spare tired is totally unpressurized; it's an original 1953 Dunlop tube type. Others are all Canadian Tire "Safety-99" 5.60x15, four ply bias nylon, tubeless.

So far so good. I'll get the car registered with DMV in a few weeks.

Skygod Avatar
Skygod Gold Member Brad Purvis
Toano, Virginia, USA   USA
1946 MG TC
1953 MG TD MkII "Cissy"
Our local informal group, HWMGTS (Historic Williamsburg MG Touring Society), had a drive and lunch today. Williamsburg to the Dockside Restaurant on the James River just south of Richmond, Virginia via assorted back roads. In all, I put 121 miles on the TC from my house to the rendezvous point followed by the drive and the drive home after lunch. This is by far the most ambitious outing I've conducted in the month that I've owned it. I would not say it performed flawlessly, as the tach quit working due to a loose coupler about a mile from home on the return and I discovered to no surprise when I hit a short, sharp shower that the wipers don't work. During the show and tell prior to heading out on the drive one of the gents pointed out that my generator belt is just slightly askew as the generator pulley is just ever so slightly ahead of the water pump pulley. There is no further adjustment rearward for the generator so I might need to source a different pulley for the generator or shim the water pump pulley forward a wee bit.



If you don't know where you are going, any road can take you there.

Brad


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Skygod Avatar
Skygod Gold Member Brad Purvis
Toano, Virginia, USA   USA
1946 MG TC
1953 MG TD MkII "Cissy"
Lubed the tachometer reduction gearbox and generator oiler after reconnecting the coupler which came off after yesterday's drive. I applied a dab of grease to the tachometer cable shaft as well. Then I removed and repainted the horn disk in semigloss black as it was looking a bit shabby. Looks like new now. I also discovered the wiring for the flasher, which the owner prior to the previous owner had installed, was rather poorly secured along the frame rail on the nearside. It seems it might be a bit of a bother to disconnect and reroute the whole thing so I'll probably just try and secure better it with some discrete wire ties. It would have been very easy for the installer to route it along the original wiring harness using those clips to secure it as well, but no. Instead he ran it alongside in some places and ran it over the handbrake tube; however, being unsecured it hung below the frame rail in places thus subjecting it to all and sundry kicked up from the road. Other than that wrapping and installation is first rate. I'm not sure why somebody goes to all that trouble to do a proper job and then skips over the final bit that would make the installation perfect.

That said, it really is a damn nice car and I'm very pleased with it thus far. A number of niggling issues to attend to yet, none too serious. The most bothersome is the speedometer pinion housing that is leaking rather badly. I need to get the car up on a lift or at least on jack stands to be able to maneuver enough underneath the car to get to it. I already have the replacement from FTFU with seal modification. Next to that is replacement of the cooling system hoses and clamps, which have seen better days.



If you don't know where you are going, any road can take you there.

Brad

TD4834 Avatar
TD4834 Bill Chasser
Sacramento, CA, USA   USA
Your
Flasher relay should be secured behind the dash on the inside of the firewall

Skygod Avatar
Skygod Gold Member Brad Purvis
Toano, Virginia, USA   USA
1946 MG TC
1953 MG TD MkII "Cissy"
Whoever installed it put in on the offside of engine cowl.



If you don't know where you are going, any road can take you there.

Brad

tmorehouse Avatar
tmorehouse Silver Member Tom Morehouse
Eastford, Connecticut, USA   USA
1953 MG TD "Gordo"
1958 Nash Rambler
1959 Triumph TR3A
1960 Mercedes-Benz 190b    & more
Repaired the non-working tachometer and electric clock!

TM



History: 1975 MGB, 1959 TR3, 1958 Mercedes-Benz 220S, 1960 M-B 190b, 1958 Rambler American.
Current: 1953 MG TD27318.
https://nutmegflyer.wordpress.com/trip-details-daily-updates/


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