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T-Series & Prewar Forum

What did you do with your T-Series today?

Moss Motors
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parrothead Avatar
parrothead Marshall Blackwelder
WOODBRIDGE, VA, USA   USA
The MG TDC has a leak in the seam at the bottom of the gas tank. I'm collecting about 0.5 gallons a week in a pan below the tank; that doesn't count what evaporates. I heard from a friend that John Tokar helped a friend with a similar problem. I checked the fittings for the gas lines and they are dry. I'm thinking about living with the leak until the summer/fall driving season is over, then pull the tank for repair over the winter and send the tank to Mr Tokar.

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Cambren Avatar
Cambren Cambren Davis
Hernando Beach, FL, USA   USA
I believe that I would repair that fuel leak now. In my experience, fuel leaks only get worse and that one sounds dangerous already. There are replacement tanks available if you don't want to take her out of service.



The truth is like poetry.........most people hate poetry.

TD4me Steve B
Oberlin, Ohio, USA   USA
I had a rusty tank, not leaking, but with rust plugging the line, I had to address the problem. Moss sold a 2-stage slushing compound that has worked very well for me. I don't know if you can use that product on a tank with an active leak, but if you can, I would recommend it based on my (admittedly very limited) experience.

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tmorehouse Avatar
tmorehouse Silver Member Tom Morehouse
Eastford, Connecticut, USA   USA
1953 MG TD "Gordo"
1958 Nash Rambler
1959 Triumph TR3A
1960 Mercedes-Benz 190b    & more
Interesting about the Moss 3 stage tank cleaner/liner. Might do that on my own.

Today ... I got the SU "choke" mechanism working again. One jet was slightly bent and wouldn't slide easily. Got that straightened out, and then discovered the downward vertical choke cable bracket on the rear carb wouldn't hold the cable sheath. The fork at the bottom was too wide to hold the sheath, even with the bolt tightened fully. Slightly bent the fork sides inward to make the opening smaller, re-inserted the sheath, tightened the bolt - and all is well.

Think I'll do some forum searching for results of using the Moss tank cleaner kit. Engine starts immediately and idles smoothly, but with a very throaty exhaust sound. Only big thing I still need to do is clean that fuel tank.

Tom M.



History: 1975 MGB, 1959 TR3, 1958 Mercedes-Benz 220S, 1960 M-B 190b, 1958 Rambler American.
Current: 1953 MG TD27318.
https://nutmegflyer.wordpress.com/trip-details-daily-updates/



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-07-18 03:31 PM by tmorehouse.

peter14222 Avatar
peter14222 Peter Gilvarry
Buffalo, NY, USA   USA
Big throaty exhaust sound is good.

My experience is that if I use choke for first start of the day I generally do not need it later. I usually need at least 1" of choke at the knob. Can go to half that once it starts.

Peter

Phipper Avatar
Phipper William Phipps
South Berwick, Maine, USA   USA
1953 MG TD
I had some rust and debris in my gas tank when I took possession of my grandfather's '53 about 5 years ago. Car would routinely stall after a few miles due to clogged gas line from screen in bottom of tank. I'd have to disconnect gas line at pump and blow back into gas tank to dislodge the debris in order to get home. That last about 2 weeks. So. . .

I removed tank drained and dried it on saw horses and shook out loose debris. Nothing complicated. Bought myself a 5 gallon bucket of Evapo-Rust and it worked like a charm. Poured in enough to coat the bottom and let that sit for a day. Then enough to coat each side and laid the tank on that side for a day. Same with top and other side, draining out after each side was coated. Think I may have added some loose screws to shake up and loosen rust flakes and other detritis for each exposed side. After 4-5 days of this treatment I let air dry for a day then coated the inside with denatures alcohol enough to coat and displace remaining h2o. Then reassmbled and filled with gasoline. I don't let the tank stay empty now and routinely keep it pretty well topped off after a weekend of driving. Haven't had any issues at all and did not have to fuss with coatings and etchings and the like. This idiot is trying to keep it simple (stupid)KISS.

Nick 38TA Avatar
Nick 38TA Nick Thompson
Hull, East Yorkshire, UK   GBR
1938 MG TA "The Beast"
met up with the Tiger group for a run up into N Yorkshire - Coxwold - and back. Good run on very good twisty hilly roads. good collection of cars from TA to TF with a few odds and ends. Started fairly cool, almost damp and ended hot and sunny. great day.
Approx 160 mile round trip.

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fireman435 David Trapp
Lexington, Kentucky, USA   USA
TF -1500 chassis is complete! New engine runs like a Singer! Now fitting doors to tub and then ready to paint. Project really picking up speed now!

David


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MGAdavid Avatar
MGAdavid David Werblow
Portland, Connecticut, USA   USA
1954 MG TF
1959 MG MGA
Very nice!
Check the color on the valve cover? Have you MGA buffer plates on the rear axle ?

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fireman435 David Trapp
Lexington, Kentucky, USA   USA
The valve cover is temp. The original is being refinished in the correct silver. And yes the buffer plates are there. I had Jim Pesta rebuild the rear axle with MG A gearing!

Thanks for the compliment!

David

fireman435 David Trapp
Lexington, Kentucky, USA   USA
Today we started the final sanding before painting of the body tub and actually found the original body number stamped into the wood! Don't often see these stampings. Now we know that we have a full original number matching car!

David


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Melbourne, Victoria, Australia   AUS
That is a very nice detail to have David. Maybe send those photos to Chris Couper of The Original MGTF Midget website?
Your car must be in amazing condition to have the stamp so well preserved as well as the body plate in its original finish and rivets too? Can I ask the chassis number please?

Matthew,
TF9097

parrothead Avatar
parrothead Marshall Blackwelder
WOODBRIDGE, VA, USA   USA
The engine was overhauled/rebuilt last winter. It's about 800 miles through the break-in phase. I ran it 350 miles with Joe Gibbs break-in oil, then changed the oil to Joe Gibbs 15W50 racing oil with lots of zinc in it. I took her out for a 66 mile run to Herndon, VA, 33 miles from my home next to Mount Vernon; 66 miles round trip.

I have a new water pump to install when the weather cools from 98 degree highs. It's a messy job, draining the coolant and removing the radiator.

parrothead Avatar
parrothead Marshall Blackwelder
WOODBRIDGE, VA, USA   USA
My tachometer quit working. I checked the end of the cable at the generator, and it is properly seated. So I am guessing that the cable broke away from the tachometer. Is it possible for me to extract the tachometer from the dash, or must I pull the dash?

shoalsgary Avatar
shoalsgary Gary Simpson
Killen, Alabama, USA   USA
1954 MG TF "Junior"
1954 MG TF
While I'm strippeed down to the tub might be a good time to take the radiator in for a once-over, huh?

In reply to # 3557160 by parrothead The engine was overhauled/rebuilt last winter. It's about 800 miles through the break-in phase. I ran it 350 miles with Joe Gibbs break-in oil, then changed the oil to Joe Gibbs 15W50 racing oil with lots of zinc in it. I took her out for a 66 mile run to Herndon, VA, 33 miles from my home next to Mount Vernon; 66 miles round trip.

I have a new water pump to install when the weather cools from 98 degree highs. It's a messy job, draining the coolant and removing the radiator.

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