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Oil pressure gauge problem

Posted by iceboat711 
iceboat711 Avatar
Louis Pascuzzi
Connecticut, USA   usa
I'm having problems with my oil pressure gauge.

With the motor running I show no pressure. I disconnected the braided oil pressure hose to the fitting on the firewall that connects to the gauge and put a different gauge at the end of the braided line I show oil pressure. If I put a rubber tipped air nozzle to the small copper line that feeds the dash gauge the dash gauge reads pressure. Do I have to bleed that line that goes to the gauge?

I can't understand why the stand alone gauge works with oil pressure and the dash gauge works with air pressure but the dash gauge doesn't work with oil pressure.

On a happier note , my ignition light now goes out after I polarized the generator. And my ammeter now works correctly after I reversed the wires.

My goal to have the car ready for the vintage festival at Lime Rock looks better every day. But that oil gauge has me stumped.

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Paul J Avatar
Paul Jennings
Locust Grove, Oklahoma, USA   usa
You shouldn't have to fill the line with oil/bleed. The gauge should indicate pressure if there's oil in the gauge line or not. Only option I see is the connection to the gauge line has a restriction of sorts when connected, but you probably already checked this. Be curious to know the solution. PJ
iceboat711 Avatar
Louis Pascuzzi
Connecticut, USA   usa
I was thinking there might be a restriction but I blew light pressure right into the firewall fitting where I removed the braided line and the dash gauge gave a reading.

I walked away for the night. I'm going to try an old MG gauge I have tomorrow and see if that works.

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ddubois Avatar
Dave DuBois
Bremerton, WA, USA   usa
Louis - Where are you connecting the braided line - top or bottom of the line from the block to the head? If you are connected at the head, what pressure you read is going to be quite low. You need to be connected at the block end of the line from the block to the head.
Cheers,



Dave DuBois
1953 MGTD
1966 MGB
http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/
SU Fuel Pumps & More SU fuel pump restoration and conversion to solid state. Information and technical articles on SU fuel pumps.
iceboat711 Avatar
Louis Pascuzzi
Connecticut, USA   usa
The braided line to the gauge comes from the bottom on the block. Right next to the line from the oil filter to the block.
Dave Braun Avatar
Minnesota, USA   usa
1952 MG TD "Tommy"
1970 MG MGB "Maggie"
1974 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Sammy"
How much air pressure did you use to make the car's gauge work? Did you put the other gauge on the air line to see if it read similarly? It is possible that your oil pressure gauge on the car could use a good cleaning.

warmly,
dave
dbraun99 LLC   – Hastings, Minnesota USA dbraun99 LLC provides advice, repairs and restorations. We also provide complete bench services on SU Carburetors.
iceboat711 Avatar
Louis Pascuzzi
Connecticut, USA   usa
Dave,
I took your advice. I removed the dash and disconnected the line from the gauge. I hooked it to an old TD gauge with a broken housing and it worked fine. So I gave the defective gauge a good cleaning with ether then I sprayed the moving parts with wd40. Also sprayed wd40 into the pressure hole then blew it all off with air. Before I assembled the glass and bezel I hooked it up, started the car and the needle popped right up. So now I can put that gauge back in, mount the dash and get all my wiring and cables cleaned up.

Just have to mount the bumpers and the wiper motor, then I can attack the interior.

Thanks to everyone for your help.

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ddubois Avatar
Dave DuBois
Bremerton, WA, USA   usa
In reply to a post by Louis Pascuzzi wrote ...So I gave the defective gauge a good cleaning with ether then I sprayed the moving parts with wd40...

I am going to strongly suggest that you remove the gauge from the housing again and thoroughly clean all that WD 40 off the moving parts, dry the movement and lubricate the pivots only with a light machine oil. In spite of all the books that claim 10001 uses for WD40, there remains only one use for it - the preservation of sheet metal good in storage. After it has been on for awhile, it gets gummy and make an absolute (and stinky) mess of things mechanical, gumming them up to the point that they will no longer work properly.
Cheers,



Dave DuBois
1953 MGTD
1966 MGB
http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/
SU Fuel Pumps & More SU fuel pump restoration and conversion to solid state. Information and technical articles on SU fuel pumps.
Dave Braun Avatar
Minnesota, USA   usa
1952 MG TD "Tommy"
1970 MG MGB "Maggie"
1974 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Sammy"
Agree with Dave on this. WD-40 is a Water Dispersant, the 40th one supposedly tried. When it evaporates, leaves behind a gummy film. Never use it on fine mechanisms. 3 in 1 oil will work, or once you clean it, no oil at all.

warmly,
dave
dbraun99 LLC   – Hastings, Minnesota USA dbraun99 LLC provides advice, repairs and restorations. We also provide complete bench services on SU Carburetors.
thomas peterson
illinois, USA   usa
1951 MG TD "Phoebe"
it is possible the previous owner used WD40 and that is what caused all your problems. i agree with the two dave's the WD40 has got to be cleaned out. regards, tom
Bill D
Batavia, Illinois, USA   usa
I am also at this point with my '51TD and have been looking for a discussion on this subject. I read that Dave DuBois had said to hook the braided line to the block end of the oil feed line vs the head end. The Workshop Manual, page A.2 clearly shows the braided line going to the head. This is where my question is in regard too. On this part #115, the banjo bolt, there is a reducing part that is stuck into the end at the thread end that looks like it would substantially reduce the flow of oil to the head. What is this flow reducing part for and is this why this banjo with the braided pipe is supposed to be at the block? And is the Workshop Manual depiction wrong where it shows the connection on to the head? Your comments will be appreciated as I have not been able to find anything anywhere about this oil flow reducer.

thomas peterson
illinois, USA   usa
1951 MG TD "Phoebe"
bill, the manual is correct....for EARLY cars. the later cars moved the pick up to the block. on the same car the difference between the reading taken at the block vice the head is approx. 20 psi. higher..

the flow restriction is to reduce the volume of oil in the head/valve train area. i believe MG reduced the flow to the head with the small I.D. supply tube from the main oil gallery. some owners modified the upper banjo bolt by filling with solder or brazing it closed and drilling a smaller hole to further reduce the volume of oil to the head.

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