I race with the SCCA Solo(autocross) program in a C-Stock Porsche Boxster. I have always admired the Modified class cars because they are all about huge power, huge tires and huge speed. Since I happend to have a 5.3 litre Jag V12 and 1967 MGB-GT sitting around, I decided to combine the two to compete in E-Modified. An MGB-GT weighs 2100 lbs as delivered and the V12 and T56 trans weigh approximately 216 lbs more than the MGB engine/trans. With a gutted interior, no glass and extreme attention paid to weight, I'm hoping for a car in the 2000 lb region, which is about 150 lbs more than the class minimum. The engine makes somewhere between 274 and 312 hp, depending where you look. I know I could make more hp with less weight with an LS1 but there's something really cool about V12's and a British engine in a British car has charm as well. Anyways, here are some pics of the car before the work begins, I'll post pics of the engine when I have some.





Front suspension removed

Here's the engine and yes, it will fit


A few teaser pics, I'll get higher quality ones uploaded tonight. In this pic, the arrow on the fender marks the front axle centerline, so you can see that it lines up with the front two cylinders, leaving 10 cylinders BEHIND the front axle-should make for good weight balance

The engine is close to the firewall but there is still room to work on it and even take the cam covers off.

And there is still plenty of room for pedals inside the car.


The hood closes




Just got my custom aluminum bellhousing from a company in Florida that races V12 Jags with T5 or Tremec transmissions. www.5speeds.com


I built the frame rails yesterday and notched them for the front crossmember today-an unbelievable amount of work with a grinder and welder. Here's one frame rail right after I sliced it:


And after I welded it up and put it in the car:


The frame rail extends back and replaces the very rusty box section which forms part of the MGB frame structure.


The frame rails are welded in:


Added a roll hoop and parallel bars today-lots of measuring, bending, cutting, trimming, measuring, notching, measuring, fitting, notching, welding went on-but it looks great.






Ran into my first big hurdle, the exhaust exits right onto the frame rail. There's plenty of room for headers so I'm not worried, it just there's one more big project before I can start the car.


I decided to move the engine back another 6" so now I don't have to move the steering rack, the stock exhaust will work and the upper tubes going to the front frame are straight and at a decent angle, making it much stronger. So now the whole engine (except the crank pulley) is behind the front axle.



I welded the top bars in but there's still a suprising amount of flex in the front end-I put a big bar on the front and tried to twist it-it flexed a little more than I like so more tubes will need to be welded in.

I notched the front crossmember in order to drop the motor as far as possible:

Wow! Keep posting!

---

If I can't be fast, I'll just be obnoxious!

WOW X2...

Sometimes it's easier to cut away all the old stuff and start fresh, thank goodness for plasma cutters




The pile of metal I cut out today

WOW Mark! Ambitious project.

How exciting that must be. Hats off! to you for undertaking such a conversion.

---

*************************************************************
1974 MGB GT race car, Charleston, SC
[http://www.VintageRacingOnline.com]

Thanks guys
I'm Driving to SCCA Nationals this weekend so today I put in extra effort to get things done on the MGB. I got the rear supports, diagonal brace and rear suspension mounting points done. Look carefully and you see that I have an extra wide transmission tunnel to allow the driveshaft and dual exhaust to pass through to the back, allowing for a flat floor:

And some braces on the front:

And put the engine, trans and racing seat in to get an idea of how it will all work. The seat will actually be more upright and the tranny moved forward an inch from what you see in the picture. The shifter will be in a pretty good position:





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/04/2010 08:59AM by marksawatsky.

Mark,

Great ambition. Please keep posting. Will not envy you when it is spark-plug time.

The plugs are on top and easy to get to, I actually think working on the engine will be a piece of cake.

That will be one kick ass machine when its finished. Make sure to record everything then post a full story when complete.

---

David

1960 MGA 1600 Convertible,
Gold Coast, Australia.
The 5,791 Day Restoration

The CycleKart Club - Forums and more for builders & racers of home-built 200cc vintage-styled karts.

Dare I saw it, but... wow!

Hi Mark

Nice project ... these two links might be of some interest to you.

http://www.britishv8.org/MG/MGB-V12.htm

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/561131577nRLjYp



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 09/07/2010 06:26AM by roadster65.

I salute you Sir for doing this project. Bring it on!

Mark... I know you're right in the middle of the fab it up stage... but it looks like the front crossmember has about a bazillion degrees of negative castor. That won't track very straight!

OMG you ARE a masochist!

Keep it up!

Makes my Olds 455 into a Renault Dauphine (drunken idea) look positively boring!

Must be an optical illusion because the crossmember is bolted up in the same orientation it was with the stock frame. maybe in the picture you are looking at it isn't bolted in yet?

Got the 4 link rear suspension welded in, these pics were taken before I welded in reinforcement bars. I don't have an axle yet so some exhaust tube stands in it's place:

Don't know why it hangs so low but as per the directions, the bars are level and can be adjusted up or down based on what I want the car to do:

Transmission crossmember is in and had to be notched to make the trans level:

Dash bar:

Top cross bar is in:

I mocked up the pedal location and now that I moved the engine back so far, I ran out of room. I have already started making a pedal box that lowers the pedals 4 inches and gives me some room, I'll get picks of that when it's done:

The floor framework before the sheet metal is attached (3/4" super thin wall square tube):

The dropped pedal box:

With the drivers side sheet metal in:

The pedal box is still tight (no room for dead pedal) but at least it's useable now.

I didn't like the location of the shifter so I came up with this solution. I wasn't sure it was going to work but it actually works awesome

Passenger floor is in: