Actual FAQ's:



Basics body modification list for GM 60 degree V6 :

1977-1980: No modifications.

1975-1976: May have to relocate the radiator for fuel injection (air filter) applications.

1968-1974: Same as 75-76 plus Relocate sheet metal on drivers side for header clearance, remove motor mounts. Possible clearance issues on crossmember

1962-1967: Same alterations needed as 75-76 plus 68-74 AND needs gearbox tunnel alterations because the early cars have a narrow tunnel and a smaller original type gearbox. This car will also need the shifter hole relocated as the early gearbox shifter is a few inches further forward.

Bonnet mods needed: None with the right pieces.

Subframe mods needed: Sometimes 1962-1974 chrome bumper cars require slightly more room. I have clearance these cars with a hammer but the subframe can be heated and bent in or small 1/8" shims can be placed between the subframe and body to give the clearance needed.

Here is our online FAQs. Needs a bit of updating but still relevant:
http://bmcautos.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=18&Itemid=46

-BMC.

Skye, this is a great idea. As one that does a lot of searches I find the search words critical to finding what is needed. While I am not sure what "Sticky" means perhaps this site (from Fred's TDI Forum) would provide some ideas. It is called TDI 101, http://forums.tdiclub.com/forumdisplay.php?f=43

Not sure what help I would be as I am still gathering all the bits and pieces, would a shopping list or detailed conversion document for a RWD 3.1 Carbed into a 73 roadster be helpful? I have used Bill's spreadsheet extensively and it is very good.

Norm

"Sticky"....like a Post It note!

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I defy you to ban me.

One question that I get all of the time is; can I carburete a Fuel injection engine, the answer is yes. The 2.8,3.1, and 3.4 share the same block alos the jeep Cherokee which uses a 2.8. The manifold is listed under Jeep in the Edelbrock catalog, that is the only place that you will find the manifold listed.

The manifold is compose of two sections, bottom and top, the top section can be purchase to use the 2v and 4v carbs. There is one problem with the top that is to tall to fit under the hood. There are two solutions to this; one is to cut the Edelbrock manifold 2" and reweld this will make the maniflold fit under the hood.
The other solution is to purchase the CNC top from CCE that will fit under the hood.

Another question I've heard (and one I asked when I started on this path) was:

How can I get the cost of a conversion down without major sacrifices?

A table of engines, mounts, radiators, HTOB vs s10 setup, driveshaft or adapter, etc which shows features benefits and costs would have been helpful.

If I may add to Bill's post..

I simply used a 1/2" piece of aluminum to fabricate an adapter. I cut two holes two identical in size to the Holley openings. (I'm using an S10 manifold)

I used a holly gasket and the S10 gasket two determine where my bolt holes should be and I used the female-hex type boltes and only drilled a wider hole to recess the heads. I later discovered a button head type that would have been better.

Attached is a photo someone posted here some years ago, and another showing my adapter installed.

I didn't have my manifold machined. I figured that if the opening were very close in size the air would flow reasonable well. I later thought I should have two tubes comming out of the plate. maybe some day.

The bottom line is that it runs really well.

NB: Couldn't figure out how to add a second photo, but you probably get the idea.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/06/2009 12:08PM by Miket.

Correction to the above posting referring to the intake manifold.

The manifold is composing of two sections, bottom and top; the top section can be purchase to use the 2v and 4v carbs. There is one problem with the top that is TOO tall to fit under the hood. There are two solutions to this; one is to cut the Edelbrock manifold 2" and weld the two halves. This will make the manifold fit under the hood.
The other solution is to purchase the CNC top from CCE that will fit under the hood.

Why doesn't someone fab some runners to add a couple of 44's to an S10 intake?
It would be like a 4 barrel carb , low and look real kewl.................

Actually it would be easy. Inglese makes a 4 barrel to twin weber adapter like that.

If you like tuning webers then yes. Nice photo shop make up Will.

Greeting Skye and all fellow nut case!

Just discovered this site. Mucho interesting but would the 4.3 liter v6 from the astro van or later S10 fit in this forum? It is a v6 albeit a large one that fulfills the doctrine that size really matter. Tres tres HOT.

Jean Gagne

When insanity is just not quite enough!

Okay can someone review the different options for fuel pumps, return lines, swirl pots, etc for a fuel injected (Rover) engine? There seems to be a multitude of options based on what I have read.

I want to know what is simple and long-lasting.

Thanks!!!!!

Chris

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My other obsession...photography!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77646803@N00/

Greetings all, I am in the very start of my project and was wondering the following:

I have a 61' Buick 215 V8 to put into my 75' MGB, I have a few questions on the outset of this project.

1. Which World Class Transmission should I be shopping for? GM, Ford ? years and/or makes and models of donor cars to keep my ear out for.

2. Which bellhousing will mate up with the engine I have and what ever T5 is recommended, will the standard Bellhousing that was originally on the engine be ok, is there a better option?

Thaning all in advance,

Lionel

I would really appreciate more detailed information on shortening the top half of the edelbrock intake (3789). I already have ona but I need more hood clearance.

John,

Shortening this is not an easy task. You are best off to purchase one that starts 1" lower. This particular item can be purchased from CCE. This is a custom CNC milled item, not the standard upper unit sold by Edelbrock.

-BMC.

Gentlemen,
I am toying with the idea of putting a 1974 Datsun 260Z motor in my 1975 rubber bumper MGB, I once had the 260Z and had the head polished and ported and was set up with three 2 Barrel side draft Weber carbs ,Crane cam, Blackjack header and Ansa exaust ...... peppy little buggy ,I loved the quick acceleration (also loved the clean garage floor.....no oil leaks ). Been told motor would fit , just have to move motor mounts and fab a z bar...........sounds too simple.......any ideas would help.? (this is my first time posting here hope i am in the right forum, if not please direct me to that forum)

Thanks
P.B. O'Connor



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 03/27/2010 10:55AM by Peebo.

Now, I have heard that you can cram any engine into any car, its just a matter of how much work it will take. That being said, the inline 6 from a Z car is going to be a good trick considering the length and height of the engine block.

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"A mind is like a parachute, it doesn't do anything if its not open."
"There is more stupidity around than hydrogen, and it has a longer shelf life."
"It is always advisable to be a loser if you cannot become a winner."
"If we can't be free at least we can be cheap."
"Without deviation from the norm, 'progress' is not possible."

-Frank Zappa-

Here are my thoughts V8 conversions for an MGB:

•Buy one already converted. Seriously, it is a lot of work no matter how you go about it!

•Convert a rubber bumper car and if you need chrome bumpers, do the chrome bumper conversion.

•Install a Ford 302 or Chevy 350. You gain a little weight, but just about all the parts are over the counter at your local parts dealer.

•Use a Fastcars.com MGB IFS with motor mounts.

•Install a V6 using a classicconversionseng.com kit.

Or, buy a project in process like I did. I got it for about 25 cents on the dollar of the previous owner's investment. He had done all the engine and
transmission tunnel modifications and started the fender flares. He had collected about 95% of the parts needed to finish the project; his way. He had
about 200 hours in it when he sold it to me. I have about another 150 hours in it, mostly in body panel repair, fender flare installation, paint prep, paint,
drive train fitting into the car, etc. I probably have 40+ hours on line and on the phone finding various needed parts like a distributor hold down clamp(I finally made
my own), figuring out oil pressure issues and leaks, finding shims for the hydraulic throw out bearing, making a 1/4" spacer for the bell housing/transmission,
shimming the motor mounts as the existing ones were welded in too low, and many other seemingly minor issues that arise from mixing and matching drive train
parts and not having a machine shop in the area willing to work for me.

All that said, there is a certain amount of satisfaction in actually getting the car on the road and hearing the compliments and comments on my first Hot Rod!

However, if I were to do it again, I would go Ford 302, Fast Cars IFS, T5 WC transmission(again), Chevy S10 rear end with disc brakes, through the fender headers,
Air conditioning, centered gas tank, no fender flares, and do it in a GT.

How much did it cost? I think the previous owner was into the car for about 12K when I bought it. I have spent around $3K, so it would have been a 15,000.00 conversion.
I have about $7,000.00 in the car. Of course, then, there are all those hours of fitting, cutting, welding, smoothing, filling, sanding, filling, sanding, sanding, sanding,
fitting, cutting, welding, fitting, etc. The engine and transmission have been in and out three times, the radiator and timing cover in and out two additional times, etc.

I bought the car in July 2008 and thought I would have it done by September 2009...



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/18/2010 11:52AM by kenzmyth47.

1966 MGB V8 Now

My car has the Rover 3.5, but it is the same bolt pattern as the Buick 215. I have a WC T5 from a 1987 Camaro V8. Initially I was going to use a 62 Buick Special bellhousing but opted for a D&D bell housing. I had to make a 1/4" spacer to go between the transmission and bellhousing as the T5 input shaft is that much too long for the Buick or Rover
Crankshaft pilot hole. My friend with a lathe milled a Oilite pilot shaft bearing for me as I couldn't find one anywhere. The stock flywheel will work fine, but I have a lightened
flywheel from the Wedgeshop that the PO purchased. It required a 10.25"clutch assembly, as the Buick uses an 11". The photo is of the T5 and spacer. The HTOB is from Race Car Products in Texas. Good Luck.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/18/2010 11:50AM by kenzmyth47.