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list of all fluids in the car

Posted by AthlonRob 
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AthlonRob Avatar
Robert Nunya
Columbus, OH, USA   usa

In getting the car road ready after sitting for a few years, I want to change out all the fluids. I just want to make sure I am aware of all of them. Can you correct or add to my list?

Coolant/antifreeze (any particular kind?)
brake (again, any particular kind?)
clutch (brake fluid again?)
oil (does type matter here? standard 10w30?)
fuel (I'll be draining whatever is there and refilling with 87 grade unleaded)

what do you think, is it a complete list?

Bill Young Avatar
Kansas City, MO, USA   usa
1952 MG TD
1959 MG MGA 1500
1973 Lotus Europa
1973 MG Midget "Half Asp Or Frank"
1998 Jaguar XK8 Convertible

My suggestions:
Coolant, any brand. If you are more environmentally aware then a "animal safe" product. I use the house brand from the local O'Reilly store in about a 50-50 mix.
Brake fluid, DOT 4. Don't consider DOT5 (silicon) unless you're ready to rebuild the system and replace all the rubber parts just to be safe.
Clutch, same as the Brake
Oil, any good modern oil, conventional or synthetic. I like to use Castrol 20-50. Also works in the carb damper.
Fuel, unless your engine has been modified with increased compression then standard 87 octane should be fine.
Transmission - I'm not entirely sure about the 1500 transmission, I think they used engine oil the same as the transmission in the 1275 cars. If so the same 20-50 would do.
Rear axle Standard 90W hypoid gear lube.
Steering rack, same as rear axle.

That's everything I can think of.



Bill Young
'73 Midget
'59 MGA

There is a fine line between a 'hobby' and 'mental illness'.

mg man 75 Avatar
maurice sallee
Campbellsville, Central Kentucky, USA   usa

1500 trans and rear end Per reprint of Driver's Handbook. E.P 80 [MIL-L-2105B]all tempatures.


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Mister Jones Avatar
Brent Jones
Herndon, Virginia, USA   usa

Bill -

I just rebuilt every part of my brake system and used DOT 3 & 4 Synthetic Valvoline - am I alright?

Another question old wise one - I had a near fire when my temperature sending unit line shorted against the solenoid. What's the proper routing of the line? I read in a previous thread that I need to replace the whole shootin' match for $150. Are there no other options?

Another thing I'm working on - my entire dash needs wiring - I'm a bit intimitated, but need jump in. Are there any good behind-the-dash pics?

Thanks,

Brent.


Derek up North Avatar
Derek Nicholson
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada   can
1961 MG MGA

Mister Jones Wrote:
Quote: Are there no other options?

http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge

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Bill Young Avatar
Kansas City, MO, USA   usa
1952 MG TD
1959 MG MGA 1500
1973 Lotus Europa
1973 MG Midget "Half Asp Or Frank"
1998 Jaguar XK8 Convertible

Brent, the brakes should be fine, the problem with installing the DOT5 silicon fluid in systems that have had DOT 3 or 4 stems from possible seal swelling or going mushy. If everything is new then you can use either type of fluid, just don't mix them.
No photos of under the dash. You just need to spend some time with the schematics and get familiar with the wiring. It sometimes helps to draw your own diagram with the gauges and switches laid out in the same manner they are in the dash and add the wiring showing the color code. Then the rats nest under the dash will seem a little less strange.
If I remember the temp gauge tube attached by a small clamp over one of the head studs on the left side of the engine and then crossed over at the front of the valve cover to the place where the bulb screwed in. I can't find any reference in the catalogs or photos.




Bill Young
'73 Midget
'59 MGA

There is a fine line between a 'hobby' and 'mental illness'.

Mister Jones Avatar
Brent Jones
Herndon, Virginia, USA   usa

Bill -

Thanks again for your help. I've been stalling on the dash thing. I need to grind down the pans, put in sound proofing and carpet, so I have some easy/mindless stuff to stall with. The issue with the dash wiring is its a mathematical combination, so once I do one wire, the whole operation gets less complicated, and then another wire, etc. it get less complicated in a hurry, its just the getting started - 6'1", twisted, on my back, poor sight, etc. Thank goodness these things aren't that complicate.

Brent.

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mg man 75 Avatar
maurice sallee
Campbellsville, Central Kentucky, USA   usa

Bill is correct under the hood. Come out on carb side of firewall, the a clamp to left of heater box , then clamp at the carb side front mount of heater box. Then two clamps on valve cover. Found a diagram in the 75-79 Worshop Manual. Part # AKM 4071 B Is on my book. Best money I ever spent. Has all specs, wiring diagram, Excellant. Nothing in write up or diagram as far as behind dash. Near as can remember remove the radio console. And the wiring to it. Make diagram for it. If can remember how I did it. I removed the glove box. Two defrost hoses. Then removed the speedometer. Just unplugged the light. The unplug the tach and light. Two thunb nuts are holding them in. This should give you room to get to the nut holding the dash to body. May or may not drop the steering column. Will need to disconnect the cable for heater control. Near can remember two electrical plug connection and dash comes out as assembly with gauges and wiring attach. Then can swap one wire or connection at a time. Ps If windshield need replaced or gasket around or to body. Now is time to do it while dash is out of way to get to top two nuts. Good luck Hope you got small hands. Maurice

Mister Jones Avatar
Brent Jones
Herndon, Virginia, USA   usa

Maurice - thanks for your notes. Unfortunately I have hands the size of tennis rackets. I've got it all out now, jus the tedium of figuring it our wire by wire.

Brent.

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