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Bugeye rust repair with some crash damage.

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pinkyponk Avatar
pinkyponk Gold Member Adrian Page
Berwick, NS, Canada   CAN
Here's today's effort. I drilled spot welds. Lots and lots of spot welds. That footwell panel is one warped mess... but easy to make a new one. I need a joggler.

So the plan at this point is to repair the front of the footwell, install the side, then the long inner sill. I think I might just order a new A post assembly. If it was just rusty it would be one thing... but this one was mangled then bashed into submission as well as rusty. The two hidden spot welds on the A post cover were tough to find.

Adrian



Home built Eaton M62 Supercharger with 9psi boost, "stock" high ratio rocker arms, 8:1 compression, Piper 270 cam, ported head, matched manifolds, CB Performance computerized ignition.

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foot well panel 002.JPG    49.9 KB
foot well panel 002.JPG

foot well panel 001.JPG    38.6 KB
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pinkyponk Avatar
pinkyponk Gold Member Adrian Page
Berwick, NS, Canada   CAN
I chained the car to my lift and brought the high bonnet mount horn down to the same level as the "low" one. I reasoned it would be pretty easy to drive one up too far but a lot harder to drive one down.(in a prang) Plus the high one is on the side of the car with all the damage. To move the frame I chained the front to a cross bar under the lift ramps and used a 12 ton bottle jack to lift the frame section a bit further back up. The whole back end of the car came off the ramps just a bit.

I just leveled the car properly and checked my angle at the front frame rails. Seems to be spot on at 3/4" on both sides now. I drew it up in Coreldraw and I get a just a tad under 3 degrees from that. Close enough for my measuring tools. (Thanks to Larry's diagram I was able to tell what needed to be level.)

Back to spot weld drilling...

Adrian



Home built Eaton M62 Supercharger with 9psi boost, "stock" high ratio rocker arms, 8:1 compression, Piper 270 cam, ported head, matched manifolds, CB Performance computerized ignition.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-01-18 07:26 PM by pinkyponk.

ice Avatar
ice Gold Member Larry Ice
Lawrenceville, GA, USA   USA
Adrian....more pics, gotta have some pics!



Iceman

Atlanta GA

60 AH MK1
62 AH MKII
67 Midget
71 Midget

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pinkyponk Avatar
pinkyponk Gold Member Adrian Page
Berwick, NS, Canada   CAN
Didn't get much more done Larry. Had to work for a living. I did cut out the rocker panel forward of the door. I "offered up" the inner sill panel and was pleased to see that it fits the allotted space quite well.

I also messed around with trying to shrink metal with a propane torch and hammer on the footwell panel I removed. I got most of the oilcan out of it and it was severe. It will make it easier to draw around to make the new one... and it was good practice.

Next task is to cut out the bad parts of the front footwell panel and toe board, replace them and the side panel. Then I can weld in the sill.

Adrian



Home built Eaton M62 Supercharger with 9psi boost, "stock" high ratio rocker arms, 8:1 compression, Piper 270 cam, ported head, matched manifolds, CB Performance computerized ignition.


Attachments:
inner sill test 001.JPG    47.3 KB
inner sill test 001.JPG

rsvmgb1974 Avatar
rsvmgb1974 Silver Member Robert Vining
Capon Bridge, Capon Bridge, USA   USA
Good for you. Any Bugeye is worth saving. Might have missed it...are you using repair panels from Moss or VB?

I once owned a beautiful candy apple red 1959 Bugeye. Bought it in 1963 from a fellow that had maintained it as a best friend. I bought it for $500. Sold it years later for $525 and thought I had done well. sad smiley Wish I had it back in that condition. VIN #88XX.

pinkyponk Avatar
pinkyponk Gold Member Adrian Page
Berwick, NS, Canada   CAN
Hi Robert. So far I've only bought the inner and outer sills. I got them from Ashley Hinton through Ebay. Shipping from the UK to Canada seems cheaper than from the US.

I'm going to try to make the other panels I need myself. I have a really good 54" shear and a crappy 36" brake. 18 gauge is hard to bend!

I'm going to need the inner A post... I might purchase one of those. I'm looking at Frogeye spares, AH Spares or Ashley Hinton. Any advice on who makes the most accurate one?

Adrian



Home built Eaton M62 Supercharger with 9psi boost, "stock" high ratio rocker arms, 8:1 compression, Piper 270 cam, ported head, matched manifolds, CB Performance computerized ignition.

rsvmgb1974 Avatar
rsvmgb1974 Silver Member Robert Vining
Capon Bridge, Capon Bridge, USA   USA
I have bought the lower hinge points and outer skin from Moss for the lower A posts parts of my Midget. Seems like good quality items.

I need everything else too, but I'm doing this one on the cheap.

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pinkyponk Avatar
pinkyponk Gold Member Adrian Page
Berwick, NS, Canada   CAN
Thanks Robert. I wonder who Moss gets their parts from for the Bugeyes? I always try to buy from the maker if possible.

Adrian



Home built Eaton M62 Supercharger with 9psi boost, "stock" high ratio rocker arms, 8:1 compression, Piper 270 cam, ported head, matched manifolds, CB Performance computerized ignition.

hpmowog Avatar
hpmowog Karl Keiger
I've been happy with all of the Ashley Hinton parts I've bought.

For the L-shaped bracket that ties the rear spring box in to the floor stiffener, I would recommend not buying it from Moss. I'm not sure who makes the one they sell, or if anyone else makes a better one, but the ones I got left a lot to be desired in terms of workmanship and fit. I got them to work, but it wasn't easy. You'd probably be better off fabbing your own. Other parts I've gotten from Moss have been fine, but these left a lot to be desired.

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pinkyponk Avatar
pinkyponk Gold Member Adrian Page
Berwick, NS, Canada   CAN
Today's project was to remove the toe board and foot board and make a little patch for the triangular brace.

I made a pattern out of 3/16 plexi to hammer form the patch. You can see the high tech tools used in the second photo. I made the patch large and then cut it back to fit the space. It's a bit crude but it's under the car and a bit of spray on rocker guard or bed liner will hide that.

It was nice to put a piece back in. It was beginning to feel like I was going to come all the way around to where I started cutting stuff out.

Adrian



Home built Eaton M62 Supercharger with 9psi boost, "stock" high ratio rocker arms, 8:1 compression, Piper 270 cam, ported head, matched manifolds, CB Performance computerized ignition.


Attachments:
front brace 002.JPG    46.4 KB
front brace 002.JPG

front brace 001.JPG    44.2 KB
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front brace 003.JPG    39.1 KB
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front brace 009.JPG    36.8 KB
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front brace 010.JPG    42.7 KB
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front brace 013.JPG    40 KB
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front brace 007.JPG    42.8 KB
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ice Avatar
ice Gold Member Larry Ice
Lawrenceville, GA, USA   USA
HI Adrian, looks like a nice job! I like the way you use high tech tooling! Lots of different ways to do the forming and if it works go for it!
Are you going to leave a drain hole in the corners of the triangle area? When I was working in that area on my 67 I made sure the drain holes were larger than stock to promote water exiting the area. It seems that you can count on a pebble being exactly the right size to plop down in the drain hole causing sand/dirt etc to collect and stop the water from draining resulting in a perfect place for rust to take hold.



Iceman

Atlanta GA

60 AH MK1
62 AH MKII
67 Midget
71 Midget

rsvmgb1974 Avatar
rsvmgb1974 Silver Member Robert Vining
Capon Bridge, Capon Bridge, USA   USA
In the Navy Aviation structural mechanics were affectionally and respectfully known as "tin benders". You give credence to the term.

Great job.

pinkyponk Avatar
pinkyponk Gold Member Adrian Page
Berwick, NS, Canada   CAN
In reply to # 3666091 by ice HI Adrian, looks like a nice job! I like the way you use high tech tooling! Lots of different ways to do the forming and if it works go for it!
Are you going to leave a drain hole in the corners of the triangle area? When I was working in that area on my 67 I made sure the drain holes were larger than stock to promote water exiting the area. It seems that you can count on a pebble being exactly the right size to plop down in the drain hole causing sand/dirt etc to collect and stop the water from draining resulting in a perfect place for rust to take hold.

Those triangle brace things were full of rock hard dry mud and stones. The drain hole is still there. For some reason the bottoms didn't rust out. There is a gap at the front from the factory as far as I can see that needs to be coverd up with a little patch to keep muck from getting in.

This car will only see water when it gets washed so not much worry.

Adrian



Home built Eaton M62 Supercharger with 9psi boost, "stock" high ratio rocker arms, 8:1 compression, Piper 270 cam, ported head, matched manifolds, CB Performance computerized ignition.

Yankeedriver Avatar
Yankeedriver Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Joel Young
Albuquerque, NM, USA   USA
Adrian,

First-class metal working. Your little blown bugeye is going to be a gorgeous car!

Joel


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Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, AL, USA   USA
Adrian,
Great work and I really like the way you think! That piece is one of the more difficult areas to work on, so the rest will very straightforward. Keep posting pictures, I’m a metal work junkie and love to see how people solve these problems.
Rut



1960 Bugeye undergoing restoration, 1275
1970 MGB, Pale Primrose
1967 Triumph TR4a
1966 Triumph TR4a
When I went to school, they asked me what I wanted to be when I grew up. I wrote down 'happy'. They told me I didn't understand the assignment, and I told them they didn't understand life. John Lennon

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