MGExp

MG Midget Forum

is this acceptable?

Moss Motors
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor

wackemandstackem Avatar
Yonder, Ohio, USA   USA
Ok, I removed the drive shaft from car because it needs new u joints. I found the end to be pitted(see pic).

Is this acceptable/normal? The transmission has never had any significant leaks, other than the normal occasional drip.

I can't find any new yokes for sale and every used one I can find is worse.



71 midget

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <

Attachments:
20180109_123854.jpg    33.3 KB
20180109_123854.jpg

refisk Avatar
refisk Rick Fisk
Frankenmuth, Michigan, USA   USA
If it's not leaking I would use it again. smileys with beer

littlecars Avatar
littlecars David Bassett
Nashville, Tennessee, USA   USA
1965 Chevrolet Corvair "Ski Team Transport SOLD!"
1965 MG Midget MkII "Buffoon"
1970 Triumph Spitfire MkIII "Tamara's Turd... SOLD!!!"
1974 MG Midget MkIII "Poupon"    & more
Looks like the wrong lube/no lube created a reaction on the metal surface. If you are picky about it, maybe chuck that thing up in a lathe and polish the hell out of it.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-01-09 11:57 AM by littlecars.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
geezer Avatar
geezer Silver Member charles durning
Magee, Mississippi, USA   USA
1958 MG Magnette ZB "Chick Magnette (sold)"
1967 Morris Minor 1000 Saloon (2-door) "Marvin"
1974 MG MGB GT
There's bound to be a good used one out there. Have you tried Matthews in Birmingham, AL? I looked at some sites I use for unusual parts and they all came up as nada. However, I did find a used driveshaft for a Morris Minor at ESM. The slip yoke would be the same. Also another source is Garard's Garage. You'll have to send him an e-mail or call.

http://www.gerardsgarage.com/



Who's version of right are we talking about? When you get 10 LBC owners in a room you'll get 12 different answers.

66jalopy Avatar
66jalopy Silver Member Phillip Jolliffe
Lake City, FL, USA   USA
The only bit that needs to be shiny is where the seal is, the rest doesn't matter.

Midgies Dad Avatar
Midgies Dad Ben M
York, Maine, USA   USA
The point where the seal rests will change as the rear axle goes over bumps.

ice Avatar
ice Gold Member Larry Ice
Lawrenceville, GA, USA   USA
All good ideas guys. Like Charles says Matthews in Birmhaming Al have always been square with me and pretty reasonable. Dave, your dea of chucking it in a lathe and polishing it is a procedure to try. Might even find a quick collar for it as well. Ben has a thought for you as well. If the pic was better we could prob see the mark the seal made. If you really can't find the part as last resort might be to grind it undersize and hard chrome it, then grind it back to stock specs.......bit pricey but that would cure the problem.



Iceman

Atlanta GA

60 AH MK1
62 AH MKII
67 Midget
71 Midget

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
pixelsmithusa Avatar
A Speedi-sleeve would also be a solution.





Gerard

http://gerardsgarage.com/


wackemandstackem Avatar
Yonder, Ohio, USA   USA
Hmmm, I will try the easy fix first by just polishing things up. If that doesn't work I will try that speedi sleeve gizmo.



71 midget

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
Billyjoe Avatar
Billyjoe Billy K
Mineral Wells, Texas, USA   USA
I have used speed sleeves in many parts on heavy industrial equipment such as hydraulic pumps, very easy and I never remember having a problem with them.

In reply to # 3659135 by pixelsmithusa A Speedi-sleeve would also be a solution.




Billy

oleanderjoe Avatar
oleanderjoe Silver Member Joseph Baba
Fresno, Ca, USA   USA
MIGHT TRY THIS: The spiral spring in the inside of the seal is what applies pressure to the seal lip. On IFFY parts like that, and no real solution, I remove the seal spring, (" Carefully look at where it is joined together"winking smiley , find the joint and it "UNSCREWS" like the drive springs for a "REEL TO REEL" old fashioned movie projector. Smartly SNIP off a quarter inch 1/4" , screw it back together and put it back. This adds a little extra pressure to the seal lip. I routinely do this an all seals I install. ??? Really seems to help. ???? WHATEVER????? Just my way.

mickri Chuck Losness
Squaw Valley, CA, USA   USA
JB Weld might work to build up the surface and then polish it smooth to the correct diameter. A few months back I ran across a website where the guy was mixing baking powder with superglue to make a paste that dried very, very hard. He was a luthier (sp?) who used it to repair frets and bridges on stringed instruments.

One trick on lip seals where the metal spring has deteriorated is to replace the spring with a nitrite "O" ring. Have done this on outboard prop shaft seals.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-01-11 11:23 AM by mickri.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <

To add your reply, or post your own questions




Registration is FREE and takes less than a minute!


Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or contact the webmaster