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Me so Horny !

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GeorgeOhr Nonya Business
Yes, confused, USA   USA
Just installed one of these and love it. https://www.amazon.com/Stebel-11690019-Nautilus-Compact-Black/dp/B00CMX20H4

Huge improvement over stock. Only Caveat being leave one stock horn in place to keep from blowing fuse for button.

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1974MGMidget Avatar
1974MGMidget Silver Member Jack Orkin
Grayson, GA, USA   USA
Wow, that thing draws 18 amps! Do your headlights dim when you honk it?! spinning smiley sticking its tongue out
Why do you need to leave one horn in place?

infinity2018 Joe T
Denver, CO, USA   USA
My horn doesn't work at all, are they fused?

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GeorgeOhr Nonya Business
Yes, confused, USA   USA
In reply to # 3658145 by 1974MGMidget Wow, that thing draws 18 amps! Do your headlights dim when you honk it?! spinning smiley sticking its tongue out
Why do you need to leave one horn in place?

If not, then there isn't anything to use the power as the relay basically grounds the former hot side when you hit the button. The relay plugs in where one horn did. I don;t care how many amps it pulls; it's LOUD and people have already tried to run me over in this thing. I'ma put another in the back too, maybe the truck model.




Joe, yes, top fuse in the box closest to the firewall. Yours may be toast though. Have someone blow while you beat on them.

infinity2018 Joe T
Denver, CO, USA   USA
Hmm, ok. Does that fuse power other things in the car? I have a few other electrical things that don't work, maybe they're all on the same fuse..

GeorgeOhr Nonya Business
Yes, confused, USA   USA
I believe it does but can't tell you what.

littlecars Avatar
littlecars David Bassett
Nashville, TN, USA   USA
1965 Chevrolet Corvair "Ski Team Transport SOLD!"
1965 MG Midget MkII "Buffoon"
1970 Triumph Spitfire MkIII "Tamara's Turd... SOLD!!!"
1974 MG Midget MkIII "Poupon"    & more
I just looked this up for my car last night, Joe T. Depending on the year of your car the horns, brake warning light/PDWA tester, door courtesy light and boot light, and cigarette lighter are fused through the first fuse in the box from the top (mine is a 1974). The manual says this is the standard Euro fuse, 17/35A.

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zabond Russell Meehan
Neerim East, victoria, Australia   AUS
1966 MG Midget "Bridget"
recently fitted the same horn to my mine, you need to fit a relay in the circuit to reduce the load on your wiring, and you are right they are loud!! I tested mine before fitting by connecting it up to the battery under the hood with a couple of short wires, my ears were still ringing 2 days later
Russ

infinity2018 Joe T
Denver, CO, USA   USA
In reply to # 3658316 by littlecars I just looked this up for my car last night, Joe T. Depending on the year of your car the horns, brake warning light/PDWA tester, door courtesy light and boot light, and cigarette lighter are fused through the first fuse in the box from the top (mine is a 1974). The manual says this is the standard Euro fuse, 17/35A.

Oh, no wonder why none of those things work on my car. I may have to monkey with that fuse and it's connections to the fuse box. The lighter light bulb lights up but the lighter element doesn't get hot. It still has the same spider web on it from 1993.

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dlrhine Avatar
dlrhine Silver Member Dave Rhine
South, Carolina, USA   USA
Thank you George & Russell
I've tried a couple different horn setups over the years, but none that I've liked.
The one I've got on there now is too weak.
I had re-wired & relayed the horn circuit a few years back thinking that would help, but it didn't.
I will certainly order & give this setup a try.
Where did you fellows mount the horn?
Thanks again for the tip...thumbs up



If it ain't broke, I'll fix it 'til it is! winking smiley

matmire Avatar
matmire Matt Meyer
Studio City, CA, USA   USA
I have the same horn. Love it. I'm a bit confused about your caveat. I never kept the old horn. It's been a while, so I don't really remember the method I used to wire it up. It's essentially a new fused circuit, closed by a relay which is triggered by the original horn circuit (minus the horn).

dlrhine Avatar
dlrhine Silver Member Dave Rhine
South, Carolina, USA   USA
In reply to # 3658621 by matmire It's essentially a new fused circuit, closed by a relay which is triggered by the original horn circuit (minus the horn).

That's the way I did mine & I used the original negative signal from the horn button to activate the relay.
I've ordered the new horn, will give it a try...



If it ain't broke, I'll fix it 'til it is! winking smiley

GeorgeOhr Nonya Business
Yes, confused, USA   USA
In reply to # 3658630 by dlrhine
In reply to # 3658621 by matmire It's essentially a new fused circuit, closed by a relay which is triggered by the original horn circuit (minus the horn).

That's the way I did mine & I used the original negative signal from the horn button to activate the relay.
I've ordered the new horn, will give it a try...


That what I did too but it blew the fuse after several honks. Apparenly the relay doesn't use all the power the circuit supplies as it's now run straight to ground once the relay is triggered.


Dave, I made a bracket and it's held on by one of the RB mount studs.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-01-08 05:02 PM by GeorgeOhr.

matmire Avatar
matmire Matt Meyer
Studio City, CA, USA   USA
In reply to # 3658665 by GeorgeOhr
That what I did too but it blew the fuse after several honks. Apparenly the relay doesn't use all the power the circuit supplies as it's now run straight to ground once the relay is triggered.

I admit I don't know too much about electrickery, but I don't think you should need an extra "load" on the trigger side of a relay. Are you sure your horn is plugged into the correct relay pin?


it should be (assuming neg ground)...

-old horn power to relay pin 86.
-Relay pin 85 to horn push button.

-12v from battery to pin 30 (I added an additional 25A fuse in-line here).
-Pin 87 to new horn.
-Ground the new horn to battery(-) or chassis.

GeorgeOhr Nonya Business
Yes, confused, USA   USA
In reply to # 3658695 by matmire
In reply to # 3658665 by GeorgeOhr
That what I did too but it blew the fuse after several honks. Apparenly the relay doesn't use all the power the circuit supplies as it's now run straight to ground once the relay is triggered.

I admit I don't know too much about electrickery, but I don't think you should need an extra "load" on the trigger side of a relay. Are you sure your horn is plugged into the correct relay pin?


it should be (assuming neg ground)...

-old horn power to relay pin 86.
-Relay pin 85 to horn push button.

-12v from battery to pin 30 (I added an additional 25A fuse in-line here).
-Pin 87 to new horn.
-Ground the new horn to battery(-) or chassis.


Absolutely, the fact that it worked is one clue. The load has to be used otherwise it blows the fuse. All the relay is on that side is a continuation of the trigger harness (the coil). The relay coil requires little to no power to work so now you have full voltage and almost 100% amperage going straight to ground; It's really close to the effect of just grounding the wire and hitting the button; something has to give. There is no other reason for that fuse to blow. I would have thought the relay coil would have gone before a 20a fuse.


EDIT: Unless the trigger wires grounded somewhere which sounds more likely, however; the harness is in good shape with insulated connectors plugged into the factory harness with the rubber covers pulled over the plugs. It did make a little beep beep on it's own before it died but my leg was right next to the stalk. I thought I may have accidently hit it. The more I think about it the more that wire grounded makes sense. The relay shouldn't blow it but them again we are talking about a Lucas system....



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-01-08 07:04 PM by GeorgeOhr.

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