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Need advice: A Arm to Chassis Mounting Brackets

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Jacob1500 Gold Member Jacob Crittenden
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA   USA
Several years ago when I started this 1500 restoration process I was lacking in patience and I did some pretty significant damage to the brackets for my A arm while removing the fulcrum pins, as you can see in the photo below. Where can I buy new brackets or can I? I thought I remembered seeing some in Moss a year or so ago, but they are not in my current Moss catalog or VB. I will post a request on the "looking to buy/sell" forum as well; but, I thought I would try here also. Any tips for installing them? Thanks for any help you can provide.

Regards,
Jacob

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refisk Avatar
refisk Rick Fisk
Frankenmuth, Michigan, USA   USA
Hi Jacob,

VB has them, part #4 on this page...

http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/sm/full.aspx?Page=16

Jacob1500 Gold Member Jacob Crittenden
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA   USA
Thanks, Rick. Now I just need to find a good welder. I don't trust myself to weld what holds the wheels to the car.

Regards,
Jacob

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Kerr Avatar
Kerr Platinum Member Norm Kerr
Ann Arbor, MI, USA   USA
if they are not torn you might try straightening what is there, with a hammer and a dolly you might get them back into shape for less work than it would take to cut out and weld in new ones

Jacob1500 Gold Member Jacob Crittenden
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA   USA
Thanks, Norm. I might give that a try. Any recommendation for a hammer and dolly set? There seems to be a wide variety in prices. I was thinking about this set from amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005MVBBX2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1507719980&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=auto+body+hammer+and+dolly+set&dpPl=1&dpID=41jIUAFhWEL&ref=plSrch

As you can tell from the damage picture, I can swing a hammer pretty hard so this might be right up my alley. Thanks again for the advice and any hammer/dolly recommendation.

Regards,
Jacob

ice Avatar
ice Gold Member Larry Ice
Lawrenceville, GA, USA   USA
Jacob, if you would post the year of your car in your profile then anyone wanting to help you wouldn't have to read back several posts
to find the year of your car . It would save you having to put the year in every post as well. Easy to do and once done it you never have
to post the year of your car again.



Iceman

Atlanta GA

60 AH MK1
62 AH MKII
67 Midget
71 Midget

Kerr Avatar
Kerr Platinum Member Norm Kerr
Ann Arbor, MI, USA   USA
the key to using a hammer and dolly is to use lots of little hits, not try to move the metal all at once

the more gradual the move, the more accurate the result (and the less stress introduced along the way)

what is interesting is to see how using small hits can make so much change in the metal, when you think, at first, that your hits are "too small to do anything"

It is like drilling holes in steel, the slower you rotate the bit the faster the cut (because it can make chips more efficiently).


N

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spettro9 Avatar
spettro9 Silver Member John Loiacono
Cedar Grove, New Jersey, USA   USA
1976 MG Midget 1500 "Laurel"
1999 Volkswagen Golf
2001 Saturn SC1 "Vicky"
Maybe a biggish C clamp and some pieces of thick metal would work to straighten out?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-10-12 02:23 AM by spettro9.

Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, Alabama, USA   USA
In reply to # 3608056 by Kerr the key to using a hammer and dolly is to use lots of little hits, not try to move the metal all at once

the more gradual the move, the more accurate the result (and the less stress introduced along the way)

what is interesting is to see how using small hits can make so much change in the metal, when you think, at first, that your hits are "too small to do anything"

It is like drilling holes in steel, the slower you rotate the bit the faster the cut (because it can make chips more efficiently).


N

Exactly! Always start on the edge of a dent and work your way in...you’re trying to persuade the metal back in place, not beat it.
Rut



1960 Bugeye undergoing restoration, 1275
1970 MGB, Pale Primrose
1967 Triumph TR4a
1966 Triumph TR4a
When I went to school, they asked me what I wanted to be when I grew up. I wrote down 'happy'. They told me I didn't understand the assignment, and I told them they didn't understand life. John Lennon

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Jacob1500 Gold Member Jacob Crittenden
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA   USA
I will give it a try this weekend and hopefully post the results. I checked last night and there are no tears. I am a little worried that there is almost no surface to hit where you won’t be hitting the most distorted portion. I am also concerned about putting that much cold work into a piece with the resulting embrittlement. I will use a torch afterwords to try and anneal some ductility back into the brackets.

Regards,
Jacob

JeffinMI Avatar
JeffinMI Gold Member Jeff Baran
West Bloomfield, Michigan, USA   USA
You can warm it up as well before you use the hammer and dolly. Make sure to use the dolly behind when you are hitting the material and you will see it move quite easily. As stated, lots of small hits. I've amazed myself before straightening out dents, etc that I thought were long gone. Also, go and take a careful look at the bracket. I could be wrong, but the brackets that VB has for sale are the outer portion and not the inner which is where it looks like you had difficulty removing. I could certainly be wrong, but I think that inner section is part of the big spring perch/tower. Again, could be wrong, so take a look and if so, you will need to pursuade that material back into place carefully. If they are available, then you can give it a go and if it doesn't work, have them replaced.

Jeff

Found an old photo that I had when I was working in that area on replacing a torn up spring perch. Looks like the bracket is separate on a 1972. Sorry if I caused confusion.



1972 MG Midget - Currently Under restoration



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-10-15 12:36 PM by JeffinMI.

BlueMax1 Avatar
BlueMax1 A G
?, ?, USA   USA
I think they can be dolly back into shape but, being that they are a very weak especially for a 1500 I would strengthen them. As well, I would straighten the RH frame rail and cut the center section and put a 1/4" plate for added front strength for the lower center cross member. Also, if your feeling ambitious you can strengthen the sway bar mounts as well the frame rails.


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Jacob1500 Gold Member Jacob Crittenden
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA   USA
Norm and John,

Excellent advice! After a $34 body hammer set (Maddox) from Harbor Freight, about 100,000 little hits, and some heat from a Map Gas torch all of my brackets were fairly straight again. Then a little gentle persuasion with my ball joint puller acting as a big-ass C-clamp and the brackets are almost usable. I plan to fill the hole with weld metal and redrill it as it is fairly distorted. The pictures below show the process on one of the brackets. All told, I am repairing three.

Regards,
Jacob


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CtMGDude John R
New Fairfield, Ct, USA   USA
Nice job!! smiling smiley

Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, Alabama, USA   USA
Jacob,
You do good work! Congrats!
Rut



1960 Bugeye undergoing restoration, 1275
1970 MGB, Pale Primrose
1967 Triumph TR4a
1966 Triumph TR4a
When I went to school, they asked me what I wanted to be when I grew up. I wrote down 'happy'. They told me I didn't understand the assignment, and I told them they didn't understand life. John Lennon

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