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Heater Fan Switch wiring

Moss Motors
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bgordon Brandon Gordon
Omaha, NE, USA   USA
This problem is what led to my relay project. Connect the wires behind the switch. It will bypass the switch and power on the fan assuming everything else is working properly. My switch was getting so hot that the pastic had melted slightly and the copper piece is in the switch wouldn't move because it melted a divot in the plastic!

Like i said, this led to a relay project intercepting the switches under the hood.

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bev sleet Avatar
bev sleet Bev S
Raunds, Northamptonshire, UK   GBR
Yes Charles it is expensive but Peer could always keep the original switch to operate the intake flap and then fit an extra toggle switch just for the fan, that's the cheapest way out....Peer needs to put out a request on this site for another switch , someone must have one in the states when they part out a car.

Poundingsand Avatar
Poundingsand Silver Member Peer Ebbighausen
Los Angeles, California, USA   USA
This is all assuming my switch doesn't actually work...I still need to test it. I have my fingers crossed that it was simply omitted at some point due to the car being in Southern California. smiling smiley

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Poundingsand Avatar
Poundingsand Silver Member Peer Ebbighausen
Los Angeles, California, USA   USA
Well, it looks like the wire on one side is fine, and the other side has a hole where the switch used to be (I'm guessing a bakelite material?). Looks like I won't be wiring it in the original way unless I decide to tackle restoring the switch somehow. I don't want to add any new holes to the dash...

Poundingsand Avatar
Poundingsand Silver Member Peer Ebbighausen
Los Angeles, California, USA   USA
Next question: to remove the switch is it as simple as unscrewing the bezel on the face of the dash and pulling the switch out of the back? It doesn't look like the knob would clear the hole the switch sits in...

bev sleet Avatar
bev sleet Bev S
Raunds, Northamptonshire, UK   GBR
Peer the knob is on a spring loaded pin, look underneath the knob and you will find a small hole now push a small drift of some sort in the hole and pull the knob off at the same time. then tap the bezel undone and pull the switch out the back of the dash.

Poundingsand Avatar
Poundingsand Silver Member Peer Ebbighausen
Los Angeles, California, USA   USA
Perfect! Thanks Bev!

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CtMGDude John R
New Fairfield, Ct, USA   USA
Definitely increase the gauge of the wire to the heater fan. The gauge is the wrong size from the factory and there is much loss as heat from the resistance. This simple change made my car able to defrost the windsheildl and the heater felt like I put a more powerful fan motor in it, it actually made me hot in the Winter. This is a must and has been covered many times on this forum. smiling smiley

Poundingsand Avatar
Poundingsand Silver Member Peer Ebbighausen
Los Angeles, California, USA   USA
Good info to have! First step is to see if i can recondition the switch somehow..then sort wiring.

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bev sleet Avatar
bev sleet Bev S
Raunds, Northamptonshire, UK   GBR
Well done Peer for trying, could you take step by step pics of your progress for future reference and post them I might be in the same trouble one day if our switches are the same. smileys with beer

Poundingsand Avatar
Poundingsand Silver Member Peer Ebbighausen
Los Angeles, California, USA   USA
Will do Bev, once i get to it. ☺

CtMGDude John R
New Fairfield, Ct, USA   USA
Remember, the wire from the power source to the fan has to be the same gauge. It will choke with resistance from too small of a gauge wire further up if you don't do the whole circuit. It's worth running a separate wire and taping it to the outside loom to get the full benefit. Not sure how the switch looks, but you can fix these housings a lot of the time with J-B Weld. I don't think that is positive or negative, I believe it may just break the connection. A Volt meter will tell. I fixed the governor of an antique 1500 Watt generator that had a cracked governor housing. A huge piece had broken off the bottom, and the guy did not have the piece. I out a piece of plastic that I knew J-B Weld could not bit into around the outside of the housing, and filled the inside with the putty, making sure that nothing got in way of the mechanism. Not sure if the J-B Weld bit into it, but the mechanical fit was so good, it's been 20 years, and it's still holding. smiling smiley

In reply to # 3571527 by Poundingsand Good info to have! First step is to see if i can recondition the switch somehow..then sort wiring.

Poundingsand Avatar
Poundingsand Silver Member Peer Ebbighausen
Los Angeles, California, USA   USA
One more request...can anyone provide pics of how the cable is routed through the engine bay and the front valance (if that's what it's called...). Mine binds and i find the routing questionable. Too many bends. Thanks!

LTLRED4 Jim Ance M.
Petoskey, Michigan, USA   USA
1964 Austin-Healey Sprite "LTLRED4"
I also have a heater switch on the fritz. Any sources for repair or replacements?

64 A/H Sprite Mk II

Poundingsand Avatar
Poundingsand Silver Member Peer Ebbighausen
Los Angeles, California, USA   USA
I souced a replacement, but may still try to fix mine for fun...there is no repro part available that im aware of...you just have to hunt!

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