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Time to bite the bullet..holy floor!

Moss Motors
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zamboniman Avatar
zamboniman Rob Dougherty
St. Stephen, New Brunswick, Canada   CAN
1973 MG Midget "Violet Rose"
2012 Toyota Tacoma 4WD
Knew this was a problem. Should have taken care of it during the winter. Drivers side floor is toast

Anybody have advice/links on where I should start this repair and what panels I should buy or just fabricate them?

Thanks,

Rob



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-06-26 04:17 PM by zamboniman.

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76lucas Avatar
76lucas Gold Member Josh L
Floyd, VA, USA   USA
1978 MG Midget 1500
1979 MG Midget 1500 "Parts Car"
Look on the vendor forum. There is someone in Canada making floor pans. He might be making midget ones now.



If you never try to do it You will never be able to do it

TheLastDeadMouse Avatar
TheLastDeadMouse Tim Vollmer
Potsdam, NY, USA   USA
Wherever you get it, make sure the depression in the driver's side is properly placed. The replacement I got from Moss a couple years ago have more space on the left side instead of the right, which will screw up your floor mounted gas pedal. They may have corrected this by now, but I'd definitely check before buying.

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ianjoub Avatar
ianjoub Ian Joubert
Homosassa, FL, USA   USA
1973 MG Midget "Mechanical Jailbait"
If the worst of it is limited to that corner:

Cut out only the bad area, get some scrap sheet metal, weld it in, paint for protection.



Ian:

dickstag Avatar
dickstag Silver Member Richard Stagnone
Holbrook, MA, USA   USA
1966 MG MGB "Unknown MGB"
1973 MG MGB
1973 MG MGB "Mellow Yellow"
1974 MG MGB MkII "Ms Violet"
royalrestoration7@gmail. com and phone is 1-226-500-6554

Chris Saur, located in Guelph Ontario Canada.

zamboniman Avatar
zamboniman Rob Dougherty
St. Stephen, New Brunswick, Canada   CAN
1973 MG Midget "Violet Rose"
2012 Toyota Tacoma 4WD
Well after removing the PO's patch job here is what it looks like
:


Where should a fella start? Inner sill?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-07-04 04:45 PM by zamboniman.


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ice Avatar
ice Gold Member Larry Ice
Lawrenceville, GA, USA   USA
Rob, you have quite a case of tin termites! Before you do much to the floor I suggest you get the car jacked up and inspect all the usual rust areas for terminal damage. I will bet you also have hidden damage to the inside rocker panel, the A post and just in frt of the rear wheels arch and possible the spring mounts as well. Worst case is you don't have enough metal left to repair economically and it is dangerous to drive it. Only a good inspection can tell you the answer.



Iceman

Atlanta GA

60 AH MK1
62 AH MKII
67 Midget
71 Midget

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76lucas Avatar
76lucas Gold Member Josh L
Floyd, VA, USA   USA
1978 MG Midget 1500
1979 MG Midget 1500 "Parts Car"
Hmm. That's pretty bad. I would agree a good overall inspection is needed. No telling what other hack job repairs were done.



If you never try to do it You will never be able to do it

zamboniman Avatar
zamboniman Rob Dougherty
St. Stephen, New Brunswick, Canada   CAN
1973 MG Midget "Violet Rose"
2012 Toyota Tacoma 4WD
Thanks for the replies, fellas.

I knew this day would come. Looks like she'll be on jackstands for a bit...

So the outer rocker will have to come off to inspect/repair the inner sill? The damage to the drivers side front inner sill seems to be limited to the area in front of the A post. The A post repair the PO did looks like he went right over the bottom A post and rocker with repair panels ?!?

I think I'll attack this rust bucket one side at a time.

Question: Will jackstands support the car or should I brace the doors as I have seen some people do?

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nonracer Gold Member Steve Codianni
AZ, USA   USA
You should brace it but make sure your door gaps are correct first , if they are not you won't be able to correct them after welding it all back together . Your inner sill can be inspected by removing carpet . I replaced the out footwell , front floor pans and 1 "A" pillar on my car , as mentioned the floor pans from Moss are not correct , the inner A pillar and outer do not fit at all without a lot of modifications. I'm not sure who has good quality fitting pieces . IMO the floors and foot well pieces don't need to be perfect but the A pillar does .
Good luck

jth421 Avatar
jth421 James Henson
Gastonia, north carolina, USA   USA
Steve, you say the floor pans aren't correct, in which way are they wrong. I have a set from VB that Ashley Hinton made and they are a little long. the car is on a rotisseirre with the doors still on and all the gaps look correct so i don' think the car has flexed, but I have been at a standstill debating whether to cut the new floor and remove a section or whether I have something out of alignment.

Wayne Burner Avatar
Chester, New Hampshire, USA   USA
Rob, I had a similar issue, with my 1977 Midget. Sand, grind, to expose the rust, then cut it out. I bought a cheap metal brake, and made my own patch panels.
I used weld through primer, on all places that would be blind when done. After the floors, I went for the A post, and made sure the lower section, had some vent holes, so the car would stop rusting, from the inside out, from condensationcool smiley
After I had fixed one side, I moved to the other side, same procedure. When I was done, I sprayed all up inside all the weep holes, with "Fluid Film"thumbs up
Make sure when you cut out all the rust, that are the stuff is blown out with compressed air, and all your weep (drain) holes, are clear of all debris. I am confident, that my repairs, will last at lest another 40 years. Buy a small mig welding machine, practice on some similar thickness pieces. Tack the pieces together, with dots (spot weld), then connect the dots. Plenty of videos to watch on you tube, and see how it's done. The more you see how easy it is, the more confidence you buildthumbs up
Good luck on the repairs, never hesitate to ask advice, some here has been there, done that, on anything our LBC's need.


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ice Avatar
ice Gold Member Larry Ice
Lawrenceville, GA, USA   USA
Rob, yes you should brace the side of your car so you don't get into misalignment problems on down the line. A 1/2 sq piece of tubing run from the latch plate on the B column to the top hinge mount on the A post will suffice to maintain the proper alignment. Just put a piece of flat 3/4 stock on the end so the brace can be bolted between the the mounting points. If you bolt the brace you can remove it easily when you are finished. Move your wood supports further under the car to give you room to work on the bottom of the rocker panel. Unfortunately the only way to see the damage to the inside of the rocker is to remove it or if you have a friend that has a bore scope that you can feed between the inner and the outer rocker.
I suspect your inner rocker panel is is bad shape and prob the outer rocker is bad as well. Be sure you look at the frt of the rear spring mounts to see what they look like if they are in bad shape you might want to look for a donor car to swap your engine into.
Do you have a welder? You will definitely need one to complete your repairs. If you don't have a welder, don't go and buy a cheap HF wire core welders, like the guy that tried to teach a pig to dance he found it did two things, it pissed off the pig and frustrated the teacher! Get a MIG welder with .027 wire and it will be easy to weld in 16-18 ga. patches.
Do one side then go to the other, don't try to do both at the same time.

Send lots of pics so we can advise you as you get into the repair.

good luck



Iceman

Atlanta GA

60 AH MK1
62 AH MKII
67 Midget
71 Midget

Wayne Burner Avatar
Chester, New Hampshire, USA   USA
X2 Larry, my Miller 200, gas bottle, running .024 wire, was the trick to making good repairs. The .035 wire, was not made for welding panels. Some of the better 110v machines, have an add on bottle, and regulator, for running solid wire, instead of flux core, both types of wire are available, in the small spools. To rent or by the bottle, is an extra expense, but well worth it, in the aggravation factor. Flux core = dirty welds, period. I have owned both types of machines, but would never go back to flux core, unless there was nothing else, and it was an emergency cool smiley


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nonracer Gold Member Steve Codianni
AZ, USA   USA
The first two pics show the original floor pan , you can see how wide it is where the gas pedal goes . It tapers down toward the back . The aftermarlet piece I have (Moss) is in the last two pics , as you can see it's much narrower the the original. I'm changing gas pedals so it didn't matter to me but I don't think the OE pedal will fit .

The black line is where the recess starts .
In reply to # 3545669 by jth421 Steve, you say the floor pans aren't correct, in which way are they wrong. I have a set from VB that Ashley Hinton made and they are a little long. the car is on a rotisseirre with the doors still on and all the gaps look correct so i don' think the car has flexed, but I have been at a standstill debating whether to cut the new floor and remove a section or whether I have something out of alignment.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-07-05 01:25 PM by nonracer.


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