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Midget 1500 Clutch Hose

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Midget 1500 Clutch Hose
  This topic is about my 1979 MG Midget 1500
GChiasson Avatar
GChiasson Gary C
Nashville, TN, USA   USA
I'm a relatively new owner of a '79 Midget 1500, and I'm NOT a mechanic. I thought it would be a good car to learn on - all mechanical, no antilock brakes, no computers, etc. I may have bitten off more than I can chew.

Shortly after purchasing the car, the clutch went out. The problem seems to be in the hydraulics; I felt the play in the pedal weakening until I could no longer change gears. So I bought the whole kit including master and slave cylinders and hose from Moss. The hose from Moss has a "J" shaped fitting on each end. The hose that is currently installed has a number of fittings on it.

It seems like a simple question, but should I remove the existing hose where it connects at each cylinder (just connect the "J" fittings), or do I need the multiple fittings pictured (the picture was taken looking down at where the hose exits the clutch master cylinder)? I can't find any pictures or drawings of these fittings in any forum or manuals, and the Moss kit said it came with everything I would need to change out the clutch hydraulics.

Also, any clues on how to pass the "J" fitting for the slave through the grommet in the engine bay would be appreciated.



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Midget Clutch Hose.JPG    41.7 KB
Midget Clutch Hose.JPG

Colonel musturd 79 Avatar
Colonel musturd 79 Michael McKinney
Winchester, Virginia, USA   USA
1978 MG Midget 1500 "Colonel Mustard"
1987 Pontiac Fiero "SILVER BULLET"
What you have on your car is a very poor case of re engineering, use your new parts with confidence.

Amore della Strada
For the love of the road

refisk Avatar
refisk Rick Fisk
Frankenmuth, Michigan, USA   USA

Congrats on your new toy! Those fittings in your picture are a previous owner's abomination of a repair. Those fittings do not belong there. Apparently the clutch line failed and that was someone's attempt at a repair. Yikes!

Your new line should look like the photo below and should run driectly from the master to the slave. I haven't owned a 1500 in a few years and don't remember the exact route the line takes. Maybe one of the other 1500 owners here will help with the proper route for the line.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-06-18 05:42 PM by refisk.

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IMG_3106.JPG    6.8 KB

jmac Avatar
jmac Silver Member Jere McSparran
Greenup, IL, USA   USA
1978 MG Midget "Therapy"
1978 MG Midget "(SOLD)"
Wow, that is the craziest looking mess I've seen.
Congrats on the car, and welcome to our madness!
This is a great site. We never get tired of enthusiasts asking honest questions. There is a ton of experience out there. Bookmark this site, visit often!

Oh, use your new hose and discard that mess. The MC and slave are a bit of a nightmare to bleed. Do a search, you'll see, but you can do this.

JMAC Engine Shop

garrycook Avatar
garrycook Garry Cook
Littleton, Colorado, USA   USA
1975 MG Midget MkIV "Bridget"
On my 75 1500, the clutch cable goes down through the firewall just to the right rear of the battery. I don't think i would try to fit the J fitting through the grommet, but rather pull the grommet out, slide it over the cable, reinstall cable then fit the grommet in place.
Good luck, and don't give up!

baloo Avatar
baloo Silver Member s y
Louisville, KY, USA   USA
That setup looks like the previous owner was caught with a busted hydraulic line on a Sunday, when all parts stores were closed, and darn it, he was going to drive that car THAT DAY!
So he cobbled together whatever he could out of the parts on hand, just to make it work, and, by Gawd, he drove the car within an hour.

Turns out that since it worked, he probably never got around to changing it -- probably had too many other things that needed-a-fixin' on the car, so he never got around to it.
How'd you like that explanation!

I think I have a few similar fixes on some of my cars....

GChiasson Avatar
GChiasson Gary C
Nashville, TN, USA   USA
Thanks so much guys - I thought it looked like something from Dr. Frankenstein's car, but thought it would better to ask than to just yank them all out. I have heard the horror stories about bleeding these too. I already bought an EZBleed and hope that will work as nicely for me as it did for the guys I saw bleed a Midget clutch on Youtube.

I'm sure I'm going to have more questions as the summer progresses, but really, thanks a lot for the quick responses.

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baloo Avatar
baloo Silver Member s y
Louisville, KY, USA   USA
You might do a search about hooking up a long hose into the bleeder port on the slave cylinder. Have that hose go up to the firewall around the area of the master cylinder, and have your bleeder screw on that end.
That way you do not have to get under the car to bleed that darn slave cylinder.

I have all the parts, but have not yet gotten to that point in my reassembly, so do not have feedback about how well it works.
HOWEVER, there are others on this forum who have done this, and they can chime in with some suggestions.

In my case, I am using an identical hose as for the mstr cyl to slave, and am going to screw the loose end into a double female union and use a speed bleeder (one-man bleeder) screw at the end so I can do the bleeding job singlehanded.

ir0nheart Kenneth Loucks
Fredericksburg, VA, USA   USA
Make sure that your slave housing is okay, mine had a broken bolt ear and a stripped bolt above the slave cylinder. Additionally, measure the push rod on the car to see if it is the same length as in the kit. My kit was from another supplier and they were different, and I had to Mcgyver it! Instead of pulling the trans or more to get to the pin to change it. Yes even with a mighty vac tool it is hard to bleed these systems. Good Luck

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GChiasson Avatar
GChiasson Gary C
Nashville, TN, USA   USA
Not sure if I should start a new thread, thought I'd try here since it's along the same line. I have swapped out the clutch MC (boy, it sure was fun getting that bottom bolt out) and removed the slave. The new slave came with a new pushrod, and I don't see how to get the old pushrod off without removing the whole transmission and removing the transmission housing. Surely that can't be the case. The old pushrod doesn't seem to have any wear or play, so I'd probably be okay just putting on the new slave and moving forward. But since I've gone this far, I'd kind of like to do it right, you know? Is there a simple way to remove the old pushrod that I'm just not seeing?

yycmidget Avatar
yycmidget Dave B
Calgary, AB, Canada   CAN
Gary, I am in the same boat - purchased the clutch kit from VB and it comes with a pushrod that I have no idea how to install with out some serious disassembly efforts. I am planning to pretend that I never saw the new pushrod...


GChiasson Avatar
GChiasson Gary C
Nashville, TN, USA   USA
That's exactly what I did. I still can't get the thing bled correctly though ... two attempts yesterday, and after a mouth and eye full of hydraulic fluid, I still don't have as much clutch as I had when I bought the car. Still, it was enough to take out for a drive on that nice sunny day we had. The whole job wouldn't have been so bad if it weren't for that bottom nut on the MC. The reservoir on the old MC extended past the bottom of the cylinder and it was impossible to get a wrench or socket on it. The new MC's reservoir did not go beyond the cylinder, so it took about three minutes to install, where it took about three hours to get out the old one.

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