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Rebuilding calipers...A little help...

Moss Motors
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72rwaMidget John Smith
New York, ny, USA   USA
I'm rebuilding the calipers on my Midget and trusted a guy to help me...He was an addict, and suffice it to say, all I got back were my split calipers (with pistons still in them). So...a few questions from the wise members who have done this job...Please keep in mind, I have all the seals, new pistons, bleeder screws, the whole lot to rebuild these calipers...

1) Why is "splitting" the calipers considered "bad"? Obviously, he split them...and I don't know which sides "mate" from original.

2) How does one determine which halves go together, if this matters?

3) How do you remove the piston on the side without the hole above the piston? I know you can use compressed air or a grease gun on the "open" piston...but the other...How the heck???

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

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S1 Elan Kurt. Appley
Akron, Ia., USA   USA
Don't panic! They can only go together one way. When they are together I use a piece of wood or steel strap to make sure one of the pistons doesn't pop out while the other stays put. Then a shot of compressed air has always got them to come out. Sometimes the reluctant one will require a bit of abuse with a bar to push it in and break it loose. If all else fails I have a bolt that is drilled and fitted with a grease zerk. A grease gun will push anything out. Messy to clean up but it works.
Before pressing in the steel seal retainer you may want to go around the edge with a file to give it a bit of champher. The replacements now days don't fit as well as the old Locheed ones did.

Kurt.

mhmcneel Avatar
mhmcneel Mark McNeel
Powhatan, Powhatan,VA, USA   USA
1976 MG Midget 1500 "Midge"
Don't worry too much. I split mine before I was told not to and they still seal fine and work great 5 years later.

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oleanderjoe Avatar
oleanderjoe Silver Member Joseph Baba
Fresno, Ca, USA   USA
These were from a Morris "MAJOR", I called her. Really bad. I know the shop manual says to NOT split the Caliper Half's, but sometimes it is necessary on really bad or stuck ones. The Internal fluid channel 1/2 seal is available from Moss Motors 180-285 , seems that if that part is available, it is OK to split them. SOOO Hold one of the split pieces up to the SPINDLE ( As it is bolted on, Bleeder UP, and match the mating piece to it. ) Punch mark the two pieced for reference. One punch mark, one side of car two punch marks the other side. and yes compressed air or grease will force the piston out. and air will also blow the other side out. I use an air nozzle with a rubber tip, cover caliper half with two or three old rags and blow air thru the opening were the channel seal goes. I also use a piece of 3/8" thick steel with a ZERK in the center that I can clamp to the caliper half and push it out with grease. Alternately you can send them out for rebuild. I saw some posts last week about this, one of the fellow members might have a LINK for it. Have Fun


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72rwaMidget John Smith
New York, ny, USA   USA
You guys are priceless.

I'll give these a go this Sunday if I have time...

Kerr Avatar
Kerr Platinum Member Norm Kerr
Ann Arbor, MI, USA   USA
compressed air is convenient but is deadly dangerous when that stuck piston goes flying

grease is far safer, but messier - the other appeal of grease is that it is not compressible so that it can more effectively push a stuck thing (with air, since it keeps compressing, you must keep upping the pressure hoping you can get it high enough)

if you are going to use compressed air be very VERY careful about how you have secured it so that when it lets go with a bang it will not go through a wall, or you, or a bystander

72rwaMidget John Smith
New York, ny, USA   USA
Also, does anyone know where I can get bleeder screw dust caps? Mine are shot!

I've looked at the usual suspects and I've no luck!

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Kerr Avatar
Kerr Platinum Member Norm Kerr
Ann Arbor, MI, USA   USA
bleeder dust caps are not available from any LBC supplier, but they are quite typical aftermarket parts so you should be able to buy them from any auto parts store, or Grainger, or internet.
https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=brake+bleeder+dust+caps&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

another term to search for is "zerk fitting dust cap"
https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=zerk+fitting+dust+caps&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8




Norm

72rwaMidget John Smith
New York, ny, USA   USA
Thank you, Norm! Guess I was using the wrong search term.

I love this forum.

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72rwaMidget John Smith
New York, ny, USA   USA
Okay...got the cylinders, seals and rings out...Now...What do I soak these in to remove all that rust and prevent them from "fast rusting" before I can even reach for a can of my ceramic paint?

I tried "Evap-O-Rust" but the calipers almost flash rusted as they dried off!

I'd prefer to have my calipers look better than when I pulled them of my Midget.

I've heard vinegar and baking soda works but have yet to try it...Is there something I can just soak these in and come back to mostly clean calipers?

As always, your help is greatly appreciated.


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Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, Alabama, USA   USA
John,
The key to using Evaporust is to rinse everything in HOT water so it dries quickly preventing flash rust. You can use a phosphoric based cleaner to remove flash and pre prime followed by a high temp primer followed by high temp or caliper paint. Don't forget to blow everything out with compressed air to make sure all the passages are clear.
Rut



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72rwaMidget John Smith
New York, ny, USA   USA
In reply to # 3519230 by Perdido John,
The key to using Evaporust is to rinse everything in HOT water so it dries quickly preventing flash rust. You can use a phosphoric based cleaner to remove flash and pre prime followed by a high temp primer followed by high temp or caliper paint. Don't forget to blow everything out with compressed air to make sure all the passages are clear.
Rut

Perdido, thank you! I was wondering why they flash rusted almost instantly the first time I dunked them!

I will give your method a whirl in a couple of weeks when I get off my lazy butt and rebuild these calipers and wrap up my brake system rebuild...Again, thank you!

72rwaMidget John Smith
New York, ny, USA   USA
In reply to # 3519230 by Perdido John,
The key to using Evaporust is to rinse everything in HOT water so it dries quickly preventing flash rust. You can use a phosphoric based cleaner to remove flash and pre prime followed by a high temp primer followed by high temp or caliper paint. Don't forget to blow everything out with compressed air to make sure all the passages are clear.
Rut

I soaked these in Evaporust for nearly two weeks, submerged, inside a sealed Tupperware bin. They came out great! They are 90% of where I need them to be before priming and painting.

However, can you recommend a phosphorus based cleaner? My local shops Lowe's and Home Depot have no idea what I am talking about.

Will Loctite, brush on Rust Dissolver/Navel Jelly work?

Anyone have any clues for me, please?

This forum is a lifesaver.


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Wayne Burner Avatar
Chester, New Hampshire, USA   USA
I use a product from Tractor Supply, called "Milk Stone Remover". I use it to clean the inside of motorcycle tanks. The process eats, and seal the rust, in a black phosphorus coating. I mix three gallons of water, for one gallon of Milk Stone. It is reusable, end environmental friendly. It's the "P" in NPK, fertilizer- 5-10-5. I thought Evaporust was "P" based?

72rwaMidget John Smith
New York, ny, USA   USA
It would not surprise me that the reason why the Evaporust solution was black after two weeks was due to what you were just mentioning.

They are clean, but they still flash rust. I need to coat them in something, dry them, then primer and paint them before I rebuild them and reinstall them on my Midget,

Something I can spray on and wipe dry would be ideal if such a solution exists.

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