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What did you do with your MG Midget today?

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76lucas Avatar
76lucas Gold Member Josh L
Floyd, VA, USA   USA
1978 MG Midget 1500
1979 MG Midget 1500 "Parts Car"
Mike, that would make sense. Your seats don't look any different then the ones in my blue car. They are stock seats with the head rest hole covered. There's not a lot of room even in a stock set up. So if the tunnel was widened any great amount than I would say they almost had to be narrowed. If they are tilt seats then the post for the lever should be under the cover somewhere along the inner side of the back cover. Since they rails are still there it should be possible to attach the slider to the seat and the rail for it to the floor, You would have to relocate the holes for the slider rail in the floor but that would give you the fore and aft movement back.



If you never try to do it You will never be able to do it

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1970sMichael Michael Heitz
Madison, USA   USA
Dropped the fuel tank, trying to find a line or vent clog. Dumped old fuel. Installed new fuel filters. Cleaned up battery cable clamps.

I'm going to install a new SU fuel pump tomorrow. I can't figure out what these two ports are for. My manual doesn't indicate anything. The old one only had one port and nothing attached to it.

My dad bought this 1974 Midget in 1978. Somewhere along the line, he stripped out the air-pollution system, as we do not have vehicle emissions testing in Indiana. Being old-school, he felt the car ran better without all that stuff, emissions be damned.

Last year, I removed the tank and cleaned it out. Upon re-installation, it wouldn't go more than two miles before the engine died. I couldn't get more fuel into the tank. It just coughed fuel back out. It seemed that I had screwed something up in the tank removal and re-installation. Ventilation seemed to be the key in my mind. It ran fine for years before without the emissions controls.

Winter came and I just rolled her into the garage. Now my truck is down and I need a daily driver. Can anyone help me?


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76lucas Avatar
76lucas Gold Member Josh L
Floyd, VA, USA   USA
1978 MG Midget 1500
1979 MG Midget 1500 "Parts Car"
Check your other post. This come up not long ago.

In reply to # 3678975 by 1970sMichael Dropped the fuel tank, trying to find a line or vent clog. Dumped old fuel. Installed new fuel filters. Cleaned up battery cable clamps.

I'm going to install a new SU fuel pump tomorrow. I can't figure out what these two ports are for. My manual doesn't indicate anything. The old one only had one port and nothing attached to it.

My dad bought this 1974 Midget in 1978. Somewhere along the line, he stripped out the air-pollution system, as we do not have vehicle emissions testing in Indiana. Being old-school, he felt the car ran better without all that stuff, emissions be damned.

Last year, I removed the tank and cleaned it out. Upon re-installation, it wouldn't go more than two miles before the engine died. I couldn't get more fuel into the tank. It just coughed fuel back out. It seemed that I had screwed something up in the tank removal and re-installation. Ventilation seemed to be the key in my mind. It ran fine for years before without the emissions controls.

Winter came and I just rolled her into the garage. Now my truck is down and I need a daily driver. Can anyone help me?



If you never try to do it You will never be able to do it

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66jalopy Avatar
66jalopy Silver Member Phillip Jolliffe
Lake City, FL, USA   USA
Will it run with the gas cap loose? May just need to be vented.

JOEVACS Avatar
JOEVACS Joe Carter
Hickory, NC, USA   USA
Made a grill yesterday. Stainless mesh from McMaster Carr. And put on a gas door I got from Sports & Classics


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MiniCobra Avatar
MiniCobra Mike B
Weatherford, TX, USA   USA
1973 MG Midget Conversion "Mini Cobra"
1998 Dodge Dakota Pickup "Dak"
2006 Nissan 350Z Roadster "Rose-Z"
In reply to # 3678880 by 76lucas Mike, that would make sense. Your seats don't look any different then the ones in my blue car. They are stock seats with the head rest hole covered. There's not a lot of room even in a stock set up. So if the tunnel was widened any great amount than I would say they almost had to be narrowed. If they are tilt seats then the post for the lever should be under the cover somewhere along the inner side of the back cover. Since they rails are still there it should be possible to attach the slider to the seat and the rail for it to the floor, You would have to relocate the holes for the slider rail in the floor but that would give you the fore and aft movement back.

Josh,

The seats work for me as is. The reason I was wondering about the size was some seat covers I saw on eBay. I was thinking they might look good.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MG-Midget-Sprite-Pair-of-Seat-Covers-1970-1981-Leather-look-Black-Red/331488295689?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

Most people I talk to at the car shows like what I have, so I'll probably stick with them. Just a thought.

Mike

simimidget Avatar
simimidget Neil B.
Simi Valley, CA, USA   USA
Similar to my tale. Mine is a 1975. I live in a pretty warm climate and got what seemed like vapor lock. The 1500 with the carb right on top of exhaust. What were they thinking. Anyway, I did all the filter and fuel pump swaps. Finally went to a mechanical pump on the blocked off port on the block with a regulator, 'cause boy does it pump. No more vapor lock. I have a Weber and it cannot take a lot of pressure. Also had a failed choke linkage clip which would fall off periodically and starve the airflow at random times. Warm climate, so I wired it open for now. Runs like a demon with a header and none of the extra plumbing your dad got rid of. Hope you find the problem.

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MiniCobra Avatar
MiniCobra Mike B
Weatherford, TX, USA   USA
1973 MG Midget Conversion "Mini Cobra"
1998 Dodge Dakota Pickup "Dak"
2006 Nissan 350Z Roadster "Rose-Z"
In reply to # 3678975 by 1970sMichael Dropped the fuel tank, trying to find a line or vent clog. Dumped old fuel. Installed new fuel filters. Cleaned up battery cable clamps.

I'm going to install a new SU fuel pump tomorrow. I can't figure out what these two ports are for. My manual doesn't indicate anything. The old one only had one port and nothing attached to it.

My dad bought this 1974 Midget in 1978. Somewhere along the line, he stripped out the air-pollution system, as we do not have vehicle emissions testing in Indiana. Being old-school, he felt the car ran better without all that stuff, emissions be damned.

Last year, I removed the tank and cleaned it out. Upon re-installation, it wouldn't go more than two miles before the engine died. I couldn't get more fuel into the tank. It just coughed fuel back out. It seemed that I had screwed something up in the tank removal and re-installation. Ventilation seemed to be the key in my mind. It ran fine for years before without the emissions controls.

Winter came and I just rolled her into the garage. Now my truck is down and I need a daily driver. Can anyone help me?


Does this help?
http://www.spridgetguru.com/TA0029.html
http://www.spridgetguru.com/TA0030.html

Yankeedriver Avatar
Yankeedriver Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Joel Young
Albuquerque, NM, USA   USA
In reply to # 3678975 by 1970sMichael Dropped the fuel tank, trying to find a line or vent clog. Dumped old fuel. Installed new fuel filters. Cleaned up battery cable clamps.

I'm going to install a new SU fuel pump tomorrow. I can't figure out what these two ports are for. My manual doesn't indicate anything. The old one only had one port and nothing attached to it.

My dad bought this 1974 Midget in 1978. Somewhere along the line, he stripped out the air-pollution system, as we do not have vehicle emissions testing in Indiana. Being old-school, he felt the car ran better without all that stuff, emissions be damned.

Last year, I removed the tank and cleaned it out. Upon re-installation, it wouldn't go more than two miles before the engine died. I couldn't get more fuel into the tank. It just coughed fuel back out. It seemed that I had screwed something up in the tank removal and re-installation. Ventilation seemed to be the key in my mind. It ran fine for years before without the emissions controls.

Winter came and I just rolled her into the garage. Now my truck is down and I need a daily driver. Can anyone help me?

Michael,

As for diagnosing the SU itself, Mike B's link to the Guru article is great.

One thing I always do with every low-pressure fuel pump is extremely simple and eliminates a lot of potential issues: do the volume test out of the original shop manual. Just get yourself a pint glass container, remove the fuel line at the steel line where it comes up next to the motor mount, and attach a piece of hose long enough to go over the grill into your container.

Turn the key on (don't hit the starter, obviously), and see how long it takes to fill the container. The delivery rate is 67 U.S. pints or 32 liters per hour, so just do sixty seconds and do the math.

If that works, almost for sure you've got a venting problem. On that front, if you get a larger container and continue your delivery test for an extended period, you'll find out whether you're not getting air into the tank, too.

I have to say, though, that I ditched the SU pump a long time ago for one of the pictured 'Gold-Flo' solid states, available at NAPA, online, etc. Fantastic, totally trouble free. Will not overwhelm the carb float valves. Reasonably quiet. Done.

Joel



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-02-11 09:50 PM by Yankeedriver.


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MiniCobra Avatar
MiniCobra Mike B
Weatherford, TX, USA   USA
1973 MG Midget Conversion "Mini Cobra"
1998 Dodge Dakota Pickup "Dak"
2006 Nissan 350Z Roadster "Rose-Z"
In reply to # 3679620 by Yankeedriver
In reply to # 3678975 by 1970sMichael Dropped the fuel tank, trying to find a line or vent clog. Dumped old fuel. Installed new fuel filters. Cleaned up battery cable clamps.

I'm going to install a new SU fuel pump tomorrow. I can't figure out what these two ports are for. My manual doesn't indicate anything. The old one only had one port and nothing attached to it.

My dad bought this 1974 Midget in 1978. Somewhere along the line, he stripped out the air-pollution system, as we do not have vehicle emissions testing in Indiana. Being old-school, he felt the car ran better without all that stuff, emissions be damned.

Last year, I removed the tank and cleaned it out. Upon re-installation, it wouldn't go more than two miles before the engine died. I couldn't get more fuel into the tank. It just coughed fuel back out. It seemed that I had screwed something up in the tank removal and re-installation. Ventilation seemed to be the key in my mind. It ran fine for years before without the emissions controls.

Winter came and I just rolled her into the garage. Now my truck is down and I need a daily driver. Can anyone help me?

Michael,

As for diagnosing the SU itself, Mike B's link to the Guru article is great.

One thing I always do with every low-pressure fuel pump is extremely simple and eliminates a lot of potential issues: do the volume test out of the original shop manual. Just get yourself a pint glass container, remove the fuel line at the steel line where it comes up next to the motor mount, and attach a piece of hose long enough to go over the grill into your container.

Turn the key on (don't hit the starter, obviously), and see how long it takes to fill the container. The delivery rate is 67 U.S. pints or 32 liters per hour, so just do sixty seconds and do the math.

If that works, almost for sure you've got a venting problem. On that front, if you get a larger container and continue your delivery test for an extended period, you'll find out whether you're not getting air into the tank, too.

I have to say, though, that I ditched the SU pump a long time ago for one of the pictured 'Gold-Flo' solid states, available at NAPA, online, etc. Fantastic, totally trouble free. Will not overwhelm the carb float valves. Reasonably quiet. Done.

Joel

Joel,

The facet gold looks interesting. I have the old facet cube in my midget and I put one of the facet cubes in my fairly new 1978 Fiat X 1/9 years ago when I got tired of replacing mechanical fuel pumps.
My question: is the gold quieter than the old cube?

Mike

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hoggie Avatar
hoggie Mike Hogan
Oklahoma City, OK, USA   USA
Those 2 ports you have circled in red are just ventilation ports. They are simply piped to the trunk area and are open. Should never be any gas fumes from those ports unless the SU pump diaphragm has failed. As the SU pump operates the diaphragm needs to be vented to allow air movement. The vent on the tail end ventilates the contact area where the diaphragm rod connects to the contact breaker arrangement.

I'm still using the original SU on my 69 Midget. The original diaphragm material is still good. Just needed to replace and readjust the points to restore.

jimbvd Platinum Member Jim Bravard
Hopkinsville, Ky., USA   USA
Mike and Joel, yesterday afternoon I tried the vacuum advance technique that you mentioned. The vacuum advance worked fine. I rebuilt the carburetor and I'm still having the issue but it's better than it was. I think I may have a vacuum leak somewhere. Thanks for that bit of information though. One more thing I know how to do now. jim

In reply to # 3677932 by Yankeedriver
In reply to # 3677823 by jimbvd Mike, how did you detect it was leaking. I'm having similar issues and had not thought of the vacuum advance. jim

In reply to # 3677637 by MiniCobra Performed troubleshooting on an off idle stumble. Discovered a bad ignition vacuum advance (as in leaking). Replaced with a locally sourced part. Adjusted timing, idle mixture, idle settings and accelerator pump. Not only improved acceleration off idle but also improved idle characteristics. Hopefully also improves cold idle characteristics - I'll find out tomorrow.

Jim,

Easy to detect. Just pull off the cap and either attach a vacuum hand pump if you have one, or suck on the hose and then plug it with your tongue. If the points plate rotates slightly, and does not rotate back when you maintain vacuum (or plug the hose with your tongue), it's okay. If it won't move or clicks back when you maintain vacuum, it's got a leak.

Joel

MiniCobra Avatar
MiniCobra Mike B
Weatherford, TX, USA   USA
1973 MG Midget Conversion "Mini Cobra"
1998 Dodge Dakota Pickup "Dak"
2006 Nissan 350Z Roadster "Rose-Z"
In reply to # 3679684 by jimbvd Mike and Joel, yesterday afternoon I tried the vacuum advance technique that you mentioned. The vacuum advance worked fine. I rebuilt the carburetor and I'm still having the issue but it's better than it was. I think I may have a vacuum leak somewhere. Thanks for that bit of information though. One more thing I know how to do now. jim

In reply to # 3677932 by Yankeedriver
In reply to # 3677823 by jimbvd Mike, how did you detect it was leaking. I'm having similar issues and had not thought of the vacuum advance. jim

In reply to # 3677637 by MiniCobra Performed troubleshooting on an off idle stumble. Discovered a bad ignition vacuum advance (as in leaking). Replaced with a locally sourced part. Adjusted timing, idle mixture, idle settings and accelerator pump. Not only improved acceleration off idle but also improved idle characteristics. Hopefully also improves cold idle characteristics - I'll find out tomorrow.

Jim,

Easy to detect. Just pull off the cap and either attach a vacuum hand pump if you have one, or suck on the hose and then plug it with your tongue. If the points plate rotates slightly, and does not rotate back when you maintain vacuum (or plug the hose with your tongue), it's okay. If it won't move or clicks back when you maintain vacuum, it's got a leak.

Joel

I think you are on the right track looking for the vacuum leak. After that check your accelerator pump adjustment and operation.

jimbvd Platinum Member Jim Bravard
Hopkinsville, Ky., USA   USA
Started it yesterday afternoon and it ran wide open. Adjusting screws had no effect. From what I can find, this is a big vacuum leak. I sprayed carb cleaner in different places, but nothing. I am going to inspect the vacuum hoses and probably replace them.

I had a brittle rubber piece coming from the fuel filter to the carb. inlet line a while back. Thinking this may be a similar situation. jim

Any thoughts appreciated.

MiniCobra Avatar
MiniCobra Mike B
Weatherford, TX, USA   USA
1973 MG Midget Conversion "Mini Cobra"
1998 Dodge Dakota Pickup "Dak"
2006 Nissan 350Z Roadster "Rose-Z"
In reply to # 3680511 by jimbvd Started it yesterday afternoon and it ran wide open. Adjusting screws had no effect. From what I can find, this is a big vacuum leak. I sprayed carb cleaner in different places, but nothing. I am going to inspect the vacuum hoses and probably replace them.

I had a brittle rubber piece coming from the fuel filter to the carb. inlet line a while back. Thinking this may be a similar situation. jim

Any thoughts appreciated.

Jim,
If really wide open, sounds like throttle linkage. Did you check linkage and make sure it was on the idle stop screw and not binding?
Mike

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