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Front wheel brake caliper locked up

Posted by kysleddogs 
kysleddogs Avatar
1965 MG Midget
Kentucky, USA   usa
Hello all,

I'm 5 miles now into driving my midget after complete restoration. Am shaking out problems, and the latest one just happened. Was 2 blocks from home, noticed slowing speed when on accelerator, started smelling burning, got home asap, found drivers side front wheel slightly smoking, did notice a couple of drops of fluid on driveway, haven't found point of leak yet. After searching here, found that it most likely is the brake hose on that wheel. I have enclosed a picture of it, its the stainless braided type, could it have failed internally without seeing anything from outside? I have a replacement hose on the way just in case, any tips on bleeding line after changing would be appreciated, thanks, chad

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Attachments:
rsz_brakeline.jpg (44.1 KB) –
rsz_brakeline.jpg
AmishIndy Avatar
Seth Jones
Wheaton, IL, USA   usa
1971 MG Midget MkIII "Guenevire"
2007 Mazda 3 "Porco Rosso"
In reply to # 2168596 by kysleddogs could it have failed internally without seeing anything from outside?

I had the rubber kind fail on me internally without showing any external signs. All brake hoses are made of layers and the inside can delaminate and collapse, turning your brake hose into a one way check valve. This in turn cooks your brake pads. You may want to replace those too.



Seth Jones

1971 MG Midget

www.SpridgetGuru.com
kysleddogs Avatar
1965 MG Midget
Kentucky, USA   usa
thanks seth, i had read your posts on the similar issue. I'll pick up a set of pads and replace them at the same time, i appreciate your posts on this subject. chad

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Richard Ball
Everett, Wa, USA   usa
+1 on it being the brake line. I had the same problem with rubber lines on our motorhome. Made for some fun driving moments on a big heavy vehicle. Replacement hoses cured the problem.

Rich Ball
'76 Midget
Everett, WA
mjamgb Avatar
michael anderson
NORTHERN NEVADA, USA   usa
It is HIGHLY unlikely that your SS sleeved brake hoses are the culprit unless they were incorrectly assembled. They are not made like rubber hoses but are rather a teflon tube wrapped in the SS braid.

By all means, take it off and check it, but I think your issue will be elsewhere such as kaka somewhere in the system plugging a port. I also see you have copper brake lines. I hope those are really brake line material alloy and not plumbing store copper. In any event, trimming the lines may have left a little swarf that has come loose and found itself a nasty place to lodge.

The test for built up pressure is to stomp on the brakes a few times and then see if the wheel still turns. If not, crack a bleeder. If you get a spurt of fluid, you have a buildup of pressure between there and the MC. No spurt and the issue is in the caliper itself.

I suspect you may have a bad seal (pressure or dust) in the caliper.

Finally, the flex hoses have an interesting routing that appears to be a slight twist. These hoses HATE being twisted and even if it is not the immediate issue, take care of it or they will fail prematurely.

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kysleddogs Avatar
1965 MG Midget
Kentucky, USA   usa
thanks for the tips Michael. I received my new replacement goodridge hose. Took off the old hose which is the same goodridge stainless type, and my banjo bolt wouldn't fit into the inner diameter opening on the new hose, the copper washers wouldn't seat against bolt head either, hose looks identical, but thats another story. I flushed the old hose with air and the bolt also, both seemed fine, replace hose without the slight bent that was visible in pic you mentioned, seemingly successfully bled the system. I did all this with the wheel still on, and wasn't thinking about the caliper still being closed. should i have taken wheel off, gently pried the pad away from rotor first? I haven't tried that yet, i know i probably needed to reset the caliper before doing the bleeding, did all this in the garage today without taking car out, was trying to do it more quickly than i should have been. sorry for long post. At this point i'm just curious about prying the pad back away from the rotor, thanks

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