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Replacement Fan Blade

Posted by archangel 
Ed Geissler
Houston, TX, USA   usa
1956 MG Magnette ZB "None"
I am considering replacing the 4-blade fan on my '57 ZB with a 6-blade replacement from an MGA. Our summers here in Houston are really hot and I thought the extra blades would help lower engine temperture. Has anyone done this and are their any problems in making the change?

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Earl Harvin
Germany   deu
Can't tell you from personal experience but judging by the number of Z's that use engines from A's and B's with very little to no other modification, I couldn't imagine there to be any problem. I'm sure someone better qualified will tell you for certain here shortly.

What I can tell you from experience of having lived in Texas back in the 80's and 90's driving all manner of 30+ year old clunkers as daily drivers (not a Magnette back then though) is that the best thing I ever did for keeping the temps down was having the radiator recored. A bit off topic and a little more cash than a fan blade to be sure, but well worth it in those conditions.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/14/2010 09:05AM by EHarvin.
Rodger Avatar
Rodger Shaver
Eagle, Idaho, USA   usa
The Texas Kooler, that Moss sells, has been reported to fit and it has a good reputation for moving air. I do not have one personally.



1958 ZB Magnette, White over Burgundy, 3 main, twin SUs.
1962 MGA MkII Red, stock 1622, dual SUs
1963 MGB Rdstr Dark blue, stock 3 main, dual SUs with OD.
1976 MGB Rdster BRG, Weber 45 DCOE, OD.

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charles durning
Magee, MS, USA   usa
1958 MG Magnette ZB "Chick Magnette"
When I bought my '58ZB had a 1600 MGA engine with the 6 blade fan. Haven't driven the car in hot weather. There are no clearance issues on my car.
Clacksman Avatar
Andy Dear
Central Scotland, United Kingdom   gbr
1957 MG Magnette ZB "Maggie - Aren't They All?"
1997 MG F
2004 MG ZT-T
A few years ago, when I thought my Magnette was overheating I did try the MGA six-bladed fan. It made no discernable difference. Subsequently, I checked my temperature sender and gauge against a mercury-in-glass thermometer and discovered it was not overheating anyway. The picture shows what the gauge indicated at various temperatures. At 212°F the needle pointed to the small dot above the H, which I take to be a calibration point.

Andy

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Attachments:
TempStack.jpg (58.4 KB) –
TempStack.jpg
Earl Harvin
Germany   deu
Also be sure to have a GOOD cap on the radiator that properly fits and seals the system, not that $5 auto parts convenience store junk!

And though it sounds silly, never assume that the fan has been installed the right way around unless you do it yourself (have had it happen once after an engine rebuild and luckily noticed before too long)

Phew, Texas summers in classic cars, geez I don't now know how I did it...those were the days!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/14/2010 12:21PM by EHarvin.
enigmas Avatar
Vince Stok
Melbourne, Australia   aus
You could probably alter an original fan into a 'flex' type fan. I have a Rover P5 Coupe (not a P5B for those who know) fitted with a 4.4 litre P76 engine. It does run a custom alloy radiator but I also incorporated a flex fan (I cut off a portion of each blade as the drag was too great). The blade draws a lot of air at idle and the 'curl' flattens out with increased rpm. I like a steady flow of air over the engine block and electric fans on their own don't provide this. Batteries in modern cars can get hot enough to boil the electrolyte due to tight engine compartments.

Bending up some stainless or mild steel sheet into a steep angled blade and then rivetting these onto the fan body would work well and look good if done carefully. If it is 'too noisy' just reduce each trailing edge a bit at a time and ensure that balance is maintained. Supplement this with a pusher electric fan set to cut-in at the appropriate time and you should be right.

G. W. Hardy
Texas, USA   usa
1958 MG Magnette ZB "Geraldine"
1972 MG MGB "None"
I found Andy Dear's comments (Clacksman) to be right on according to my Magnette's temps guage...in fact mine read a bit hotter than his does (or did). Lets face it 190 isn't hot and even 212 isn't boiling in a pressurized system. After checking mine with a laboratory thermometer, I corrected the readings a bit. I read 192 at the bottem or beginning of the "Hot" indicator, and over the line, pegged out was only 210 to 212 degrees F. I ran mine with the radiator blanked off, stationary to even get it up to the 210 range.

Thes car wasn't hot, only the guage was.... I simply took the gauge out, ran it up to the 190-195 range on my lab thermometer, and with the needlenose pliers, re-set the guage needle to the upper edge of the middle temp block. Now when it runs in the summer in Texas, it rarely gets over 190 and I know we are a long way from overheating anything.

The water won't boil even at 212 with pressure and that's not very warm for modern lubricants, so don't worry about it. Just tweek your gauge needle a bit and quit worrying. When mine reads hot now, it probably will be hot, but so far it doesn't get there.

Wombat

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