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Replacement floor boards - make or buy?

Posted by tdskip 
Tom Deutsch
SoCal, CA, USA   usa
1959 MG MGA

I'm waiting on my impact driver to (hopefully) remove the frozen floor board screws, but I was wondering if most of you bought or make your replacement floor boards?
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neely Avatar
Gary Neely
Heber Springs, Arkansas, USA   usa

Glad you asked the question. Me wants to know too! My main floors are sagging , no rot, but might as well replace them while Ive got everything stripped.



Gary Neely
Heber Springs, AR.
73 B, OD
Su, HIFs, Pertronix
Schlemmerized
+.040, Crane 270
Alum Head, P&P
dterhune Avatar
David Terhune
Michigan's Beautiful Sunset Coast, USA   usa

Made mine, but never again!!! angry smiley Used the templates from Todd Clarke...





David Terhune

My Blog http://mymgcars.blogspot.com/

SW Michigan, USA
1970 MGB-GT, 1974 MGB and 1957 MGA Coupe



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/10/2007 10:06PM by dterhune.
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DSCN0830.JPG (72.9 KB) –
DSCN0830.JPG

neely Avatar
Gary Neely
Heber Springs, Arkansas, USA   usa

Sooo, David were would you get them if you had to do it again. How thick?, Number of layers? what kind of treatment?, precut holes? ect.



Gary Neely
Heber Springs, AR.
73 B, OD
Su, HIFs, Pertronix
Schlemmerized
+.040, Crane 270
Alum Head, P&P
Steve64B Avatar
Steve Opitz
Phoenix, AZ, USA   usa
1966 MG MGB

I'm curious... why continue to use plywood? Wouldn't thin metal plate be a better application?
Steve
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jeff schultz
wake forest, nc, USA   usa

neely Wrote:
Quote: Glad you asked the question. Me wants to know too! My main floors are sagging , no rot, but might as well replace them while Ive got everything stripped.

Replacing sagging floorboards is a very good idea. Back in the early 70's when I was a young college student with no money and no brains, I neglected my sagging floorboards. One day while driving on the freeway, I smelled smoke. I looked down to see flames in a perfect spot for every man's built in fire extinguisher, but I didn't think of that. I managed to pull over, rip out the carpet and beat out the fire.

Anyway, for my current MGA, the floorboards were rotten but good enough to use as patterns for cutting new ones. If you cut your own, make sure to use good quality wood with at least 5 plys, preferably marine grade. I found some nice marine mahogany plywood at a salvage place down at the coast.

If you don't want to cut your own, you might try Classic Wood Mfg here in NC. Don't know personally, but have heard good things about them. http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/partsforsale/mg/a/463958.html

Jeff



Tom Deutsch
SoCal, CA, USA   usa
1959 MG MGA

Sounds to me like the consensus is to buy not build!
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bills Avatar
Bill Spohn
W. Vancouver, BC, Canada   can

Easier to buy than build. The original plywood seems to have been a slightly odd thickness too.

The plywood floors really aren't bad if you use decent marine ply that doesn't rot or collapse if you put a foot on it. They do have tendency to catch on fire - well, to smoulder, really, when an exhaust pipe is too close and/or the car is being used hard (after market exhaust may be located closer to the floor than OEM).

While I use alloy plate for floors on the race car, I'd warn you that the heat will melt your sneakers, so additional insulation is an absolute requirement.

Frankly, you might want to consider doing what I did on the Jamaican. I replaced the plywood, but I also welded two steel straps across the mounting flanges to bolt the seats to. I did this because I had experience with using an MGA with stock flooring in competition and ripped the seat and floor right out of it on a tight turn. Now that probably wouldn't happen to you on the street, or at least not for a lot of years until the floor became weakened by water and age, but why risk it anyway?



Bill Spohn www.rhodo.citymax.com/carstuff.html
1958 MGA Twincam (race car (170 bhp)),1962 MGA Deluxe Coupe (98 bhp)
1969 MGC roadster (175 bhp), 1957 Jamaican MGA (200 bhp)
1965 Jensen CV8 (375 bhp), 1971 Jensen Interceptor (350 bhp)
1969 Lamborghini Islero S (350 bhp), 1988 Fiero GT turbo (300 bhp)
2009 Pontiac Solstice GXP Coupe (350 bhp)
West Vancouver BC

wyatt Avatar
Wyatt W
penguin point, drift ice, Antarctica   ata

Use 7 ply birch,its the right thickness, cause thats what the factory used.That what I used too and it came out perfect. One sheet does all the flooring.
Bill Young Avatar
Kansas City, MO, USA   usa
1952 MG TD
1959 MG MGA 1500
1973 Lotus Europa
1973 MG Midget "Half Asp Or Frank"
1998 Jaguar XK8 Convertible

The 'floor' boards aren't too difficult to make, but the rear bulkhead has some reliefs milled in that are a little more difficult to reproduce. Thankfully I got a new rear bulkhead with my car and I can make the remaining pieces fairly easily. If you're not a good woodworker and have a few tools such as sanders then buying them would probably be the best option, especially if you need to replace the bulkhead.



Bill Young
'73 Midget
'59 MGA

There is a fine line between a 'hobby' and 'mental illness'.
bills Avatar
Bill Spohn
W. Vancouver, BC, Canada   can

Bill Young Wrote:
Quote: The 'floor' boards aren't too difficult to make, but the rear bulkhead has some reliefs milled in that are a little more difficult to reproduce. -


Yes, good point.

My Jamaican, which has the entire MGA body aft of the driver missing, has had the floor area of the now large shelf the goes from the seat backs to the rear of the car constructed entirely from plywood - all formed and beveled. The guy must have been a carpenter or cabinetmaker!

One additional point about installing the new floor boards - drill and tap the holes (getting the broken bolts out can be fun) and coat the new bolts with antiseize - you may just be doing the owner 2 owners down the road a favour, but then again it might be you that has to remove them again, in which case you'll be very glad you did.




Bill Spohn www.rhodo.citymax.com/carstuff.html
1958 MGA Twincam (race car (170 bhp)),1962 MGA Deluxe Coupe (98 bhp)
1969 MGC roadster (175 bhp), 1957 Jamaican MGA (200 bhp)
1965 Jensen CV8 (375 bhp), 1971 Jensen Interceptor (350 bhp)
1969 Lamborghini Islero S (350 bhp), 1988 Fiero GT turbo (300 bhp)
2009 Pontiac Solstice GXP Coupe (350 bhp)
West Vancouver BC

Thom Patrick
Charlotte, NC, USA   usa

I bought mine from Moss and they fit pretty well. Sure was alot easier.



Thom Patrick

1974 MGB
1960 MGA


Attachments:
floors 016.jpg (42.2 KB) –
floors 016.jpg

dterhune Avatar
David Terhune
Michigan's Beautiful Sunset Coast, USA   usa

neely Wrote:
Quote: Sooo, David were would you get them if you had to do it again. How thick?, Number of layers? what kind of treatment?, precut holes? ect.

Gary, I used 5/8 plywood with three coats of sealer and two coats of outdoor paint. As bill Young mentioned, I am not that great with wood with limited tools, the reliefs and angles in the front toe boards were murder. I am thankful they will be covered up when finished. I also had some custom cuts to make because of the OD mods to the tunnel. I also used stainless screws... I would say just buy them from your favorite supplier.



David Terhune

My Blog http://mymgcars.blogspot.com/

SW Michigan, USA
1970 MGB-GT, 1974 MGB and 1957 MGA Coupe



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/11/2007 10:29PM by dterhune.
neely Avatar
Gary Neely
Heber Springs, Arkansas, USA   usa

Well, I soaked the bolts for a couple of days, then proceeded to try to remove 4 or 5. Got one, and tried the other four from the bottom with vise-grips, got another. Spend 2 hours screwing around , then got the BFH and had both floorboards out in about 30 min. Now, Ill get the bolts with vise grips from the top when they soak another night. Ill definitely replace the bolts with something other than original. Some with a hex head or allen head, and stainless steel. What a pain in the rear.



Gary Neely
Heber Springs, AR.
73 B, OD
Su, HIFs, Pertronix
Schlemmerized
+.040, Crane 270
Alum Head, P&P

Attachments:
FLOORBOARDS REMOVED.jpg (38 KB) –
FLOORBOARDS REMOVED.jpg

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