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Front and Rear Suspension Removal

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Grubeguy Avatar
Grubeguy Grube Guy
Washington, DC, USA   USA
I'm at the point where I'm starting the removal of front and rear suspension and associateds. I looked through Barney's site but didn't see any how-to articles (a link would be appreciated).

It looks pretty straightforward, at least in the back. Shocks are already off, and what remains are my leaf springs. Those are two bolts each, yes, and they come off with the rear axle?

Is the front just as easy? Engine and tranny are out, so I'm guessing I'll need to compress the spring first?

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barneymg Avatar
barneymg Barney Gaylord
(Somewhere in USA), Pick one (or more), USA   USA
1958 MG MGA "MGA With An Attitude"
In the front, place floor jack under the A-arm, directly under the coil spring, and lift. This unloads all suspension joints except the inner pivots of lower A-arms. You can then R&R shock absorbers, swivel pin and swivel link assemblies. To service coil springs or lower A-arms, jack under the A-arm first, then disconnect the lower trunnion from A-arm. Place jack stand under the frame, then lower the jack to relieve pressure on the spring. Then press down the A-arm and lift out the coil spring. Dismounting the lower A-arm pivot is last. Reassembly is reverse of disassembly.

In the rear, jack up the axle or leaf spring, then disconnect the rebound strap and shock link first. Place jack stand under the frame, then lower the jack to relieve pressure on the leaf spring Then you can remove the U-bolts to disconnect rear axle from springs. Finally remove rear shackles and the front bolt from the spring. Reassembly is reverse of disassembly.



Barney Gaylord - 1958 MGA with an attitude - http://MGAguru.com - barneymg@mgaguru.com

3066james Avatar
3066james Jim Cheatham
Amelia, VA, USA   USA
Grube,
Here's a link that shows how to use a floor jack and chain to compress coil springs for installation or removal if you don't have enough weight on the car to compress them. I used this method and it works well.

http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,1663270

Jim

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Grubeguy Avatar
Grubeguy Grube Guy
Washington, DC, USA   USA
Awesome, thanks Jim

Grubeguy Avatar
Grubeguy Grube Guy
Washington, DC, USA   USA
I'll want to be reading/rereading front suspension removal. I'm not interested in renovating anything yet, just removing it from the frame so I can get it naked for sandblasting.

Are there just 4 bolts per side to remove the front cross member?

3066james Avatar
3066james Jim Cheatham
Amelia, VA, USA   USA
There is no separate front crossmember like on MGBs. It's all part of the frame.

Here are pictures of my frame and suspension after re-assembly.

Jim


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colynf Avatar
colynf Colyn Firth
South Yorkshire, UK   GBR
"Grube"
take loads of pictures of everything before you remove it from the car, this really helps when you are trying to recall the exact order that you have to replace them in the future.

This is especially important when you re assemble the front suspension links into the wishbones.

Colyn

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Charles94 Avatar
Charles94 Chip L
Matthews, NC, USA   USA
1954 MG TF "Little T"
1960 MG MGA 1600 "Little Red"
The rear spring bolts are in steel bushings which typically rust making it impossible to remove. Many cut the bolts off.

Grubeguy Avatar
Grubeguy Grube Guy
Washington, DC, USA   USA
Well, I've got the rears off - Just need to finish removing the fronts. Toward freeing the frame from the front stuff (and not toward inspection/renovation, et al), I'd go by http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/suspensn/fs202.htm, yes?

I'm looking at removing the shocks and tie rod ends, plus upper and lower A arm bolts, correct? MUST I remove the wheels and brakes to get the frame freed?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-09-13 09:56 AM by Grubeguy.

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Gary E Avatar
Gary E Silver Member Gary Edwards
Kernersville, ,N.C., USA   USA
It will be easier now than later. Also be sure to remove the steering rack to avoid exposure to the sandblasting.



Gary

3066james Avatar
3066james Jim Cheatham
Amelia, VA, USA   USA
Also, tape the splined ends to protect them until you're ready to re-install the steering rack and steering column.

It's also a good time to replace the steering u-joint.

Jim

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