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Blasting body

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msouza2 Avatar
msouza2 Mark Souza
Blackstone, Massachusetts, USA   USA
1961 MG MGA
So i have Global Blasting coming to price blasting my 1961. He uses glass bead. I questioned him as to the issue of warping the aluminum on doors, hood and trunk. He said he can control the pressure. I'm not sure if this is accurate. Any advise. I know glass bead is ok for steel panels just worry about the aluminum.

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copernicus Avatar
copernicus Nick Kopernik
Redding, CT, USA   USA
It's not only a question of nozzle pressure, but of angle of attack as well as the heat that's created by any type of dry media. Heat can and will warp body panels, and it doesn't matter if they are made of steel or aluminum. If the vendor knows what they are doing, they will account for the variables and hopefully do a good job. My preference would be "dustless" blasting which uses a mixture of water and an abrasive on body panels.

ron neal Avatar
Coastal, South Carolina, USA   USA
Mark
I have have had glass beads, media, sand, dustless and soda blasting done. On the MGA I would have the aluminum panels hand stripped. Tle least aggressive is dipping, then soda blasting.
I have had more than one alloy panel warped by the guy that said I can control the pressure and/or angle of attack. As Nick noted dustless blasting adds water to reduce the heat but even they can warp a panel if not careful.
If they do a good job I think you will be happy with the results. I would also talk to more than one blaster and find out how long he has been doing this. You don't want a newb.
Just my 2 cents
Ron

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joerberg Avatar
joerberg Silver Member Joe A
Hoosick Falls, New York, USA   USA
Yes, it can be done if everything is just right but why take the chance. Using a chemical stripper is very easy and the hood, doors and trunk are both small and pretty flat so quick to do. I wouldn't chance it.

wyatt Avatar
wyatt Silver Member Wyatt W
penguin point, drift ice, Antarctica   ATA
....ditto ditto, stay away from the blastmaster....except for the frame. chemicals some for the car some for you...smoking smiley

mgbgt111 Avatar
mgbgt111 c erskine c
pelham, shelby county, USA   USA
I had my 61 blasted by a guy in 1974 that said he could control his blasting, but unfortunately ruined my bonnet, boot lid and both doors. They all had huge wave like dents that would have required up to a 1/4 inch of filler to straighten them out. He told me to look for replacements that he would reimburse me for. Buy the time I located suitable replacements, I discovered he had left town.
I would never trust anyone again to blast the aluminum. If you've ever seen the door skins off the frames you would realize just how thin they are.



Deo Volente

bisslre Ron Bissland
Kenosha, WI, USA   USA
1956 MG MGA 1500 "The Little Car"
2014 Chevrolet Silverado
I had my frame bead blasted and the body media blasted.. I believe the difference is the size of material used. Doors, hood, and trunk were done by hand.

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bisslre Ron Bissland
Kenosha, WI, USA   USA
1956 MG MGA 1500 "The Little Car"
2014 Chevrolet Silverado
Frame and then finished in Paint


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wally Ian Cowen
Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia   AUS
Joe The consisis and advices here are accurate---Don`t risk any of your alloy sheet panels to a blasting process.
My experiences have been to use paint stripper on the alloy panals [wear gloves ] scrape it all off, and then clean up the steel under frames with a good quality "kill-rust" product.
Takes a little time---but when the job is done and dusted, you will forget the time & efforts you used. The end result is what it is all about.
Have fun!
Cheers from Down Under.

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wyatt Avatar
wyatt Silver Member Wyatt W
penguin point, drift ice, Antarctica   ATA
lovely, but how did you attach the outer rocker/sill?

In reply to # 3536124 by bisslre Frame and then finished in Paint

Zur Avatar
Zur Silver Member Dave H.
Amarillo, Texas, USA   USA
Ron Bissland -

Beautiful job!
What is the color called? I wish mine was that color.





Dave

bisslre Ron Bissland
Kenosha, WI, USA   USA
1956 MG MGA 1500 "The Little Car"
2014 Chevrolet Silverado
The color is glacier blue. The light is playing a few tricks on the color but it is absolutely buitiful. I will be using aircraft counter sunk rivets to attach the rocker panels.you will not see the rivets as the top ones are under the door seal and the bottom will be air brushed in to body color. I will send pics when done.

RJBrown Avatar
RJBrown Randy Brown
Queen Creek, Arizona, USA   USA
DO NOT LET ANYONE BLAST AN ALUMINUM PART.
Did I yell loud enough to be heard?
Be VERY careful who does the steel parts. Steel parts warp if inexperienced people try. Do not use harsh media on anything thinner than the frame. (Sand, slag, aluminum oxide etc.) glass is probably the harshest media the steel parts can stand. Get all the paint and bondo off before letting a blaster work on the rust. Dipping a body WILL leave the solution in the nooks and crannies of a body. The seams will hold the solution and paint damage will occur late no matter how well it is rinsed/neutralized etc.

joerberg Avatar
joerberg Silver Member Joe A
Hoosick Falls, New York, USA   USA
We need to be careful about being overly negative about abrasive blasting here and possibly scaring people away from a process that can be very beneficial to them. I worked in the industrial blasting market for many years and removing paint and rust from a car is a perfect application for abrasive blasting. We seem to be in agreement that trying to blast the aluminum doors, hood and trunk is a very risky proposition. However, blasting the rest of the car is relative safe. Yes, the panels could be warped but the blaster would have to be totally inexperienced and working overtime to warp an MGA fender. The steel in MGA fenders and body are quite thick and very resistant to damage from blasting. Don't let someone blast your parts with an overly aggressive grit size like 36 grit. They may want to do this because it's going to take paint off fast but it won't get all the rust and it will leave a very heavy "profile" requiring extra paint to cover. If there's rust tell them you want them to use a finer grit like 80 or even 100 where the smaller abrasive particles can get into the little rust pockets and scour them out. A large grit like 36 won't do this. Also, don't let them use too high a pressure. Even with a finer grit size I wouldn't like to see anything over 125 psi at the nozzle. And one final word of advice - NEVER allow anyone to come to your house and blast with plain silica sand. Blasting with sand is outlawed in almost every country in the world except the US. The answer to why we still allow it is much too long for this forum. The fine dust particles from the sand can be inhaled and will cause irreversible lung damage called silicosis. Bottom line is talk to a couple of blasters and ask what type and size of abrasive they would use and what pressures they recommend and use your judgment to determine who is knowledgeable and experienced. A good shop will have no problem cleaning up your fenders and body without any risk of damage.

bisslre Ron Bissland
Kenosha, WI, USA   USA
1956 MG MGA 1500 "The Little Car"
2014 Chevrolet Silverado
Just for FYI.. This is how I will attach the painted rockers to the Body... Use a counter sink drill bit on both sides of the metal. Use a counter sink rivet. then use a rivet squeezer to compress it. As long as the rivet is the correct length, when you compress it the counter sink on the back side void will be filled and will be flush. The rivets I have a re a bit long so all I do is cut them to the correct size. The top side is 3 pieces of metal thick and the bottom is two pieces thick. for my experiment i used 3 pieces of metal and drilled counter sink holes front and back..pic's attached.
Before putting together I will use a rust inhibitor on the back side of the rocker.


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