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Gary E Avatar
Gary E Silver Member Gary Edwards
Kernersville, ,N.C., USA   USA

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tomstorey Tom Storey M
Chardon, OH, USA   USA
was wondering if anyone had a source for good engine gaskets...like oil pan, head, inspection covers, etc.

thanks

Blueosprey90 Avatar
Blueosprey90 Jeff Sienkiewicz
New Milford, CT, USA   USA
Dave Headly's, Hap Waldrop's and Dick Moritz's Tips for Rod Cap Removal

Pauter rods: here's a picture of my #4 rod cap - ignore the broken crankshaft



And a picture of the Pauter rods. Note the caps. Ignore the bent rod on the left.




Dave and Hap's tip for removing this type of end cap.

Dave: " ... separating the rod caps from these and others is done by backing off the bolts about 1/8" to 3/16", then tapping on the bolt heads to push the rod away from the cap. This procedure from Pauter as well as others. It works well."

Hap: "Yep, that's how I do it as well, daddy used to say , "son use your brain, not your ass", LOL. I also use a plastic dead blow hammer, so I don't mar those expensive bolt heads, but it does not take a lot of effort to separate them this way. These are the little tricks guys like Dave and I learn over the years to make our life easier, but sometime forget to share because it is second nature to us. I also do the same thing when resizing rods on the bench, MGB 18V rods are especially hard to separate doing it any other way. The more you wrench, the more you discover little tips like this, most often, this sort of stuff is self taught."


Dick's tip for removing stock MGA rod caps"

Dick: "And when removing the rod caps from connecting rods that use captive bolts and nuts, best to back the nuts off to where they're just flush with the end of the threaded bolt. While you should take great care to tap gently with a soft-faced hammer, backing the nut off until it's flush with the end of the bolt provides a little more insurance against damaging the threaded end of the bolt...

Also, when installing or removing connecting rods with captive bolts, best to use purpose-build "bolt guards" or pieces of rubber fuel line over the threaded portion of the bolts so that the threads don't nick the crankshaft journal on the way in or out... "

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ghnl Avatar
ghnl Eric Russell
Mebane, North Carolina, USA   USA
1961 MG MGA "Calvin"
In reply to # 3622891 by tomstorey I was wondering if there was a "be all to end all"...primer on engine crankshaft fit up?

including the proper way to install the thrust washers...(there are multiple references that are 180 degrees from each other on the proper installation position)...

Re: thrust washers - here's what BMC said: http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/care/csm/mg416.pdf
and what the MGA Guru says:
Quote: The face with white metal and slots goes against the rotating flange of the crankshaft, while the flat steel face of the thrust washer goes against the stationary face of the block and cap. The MGA workshop Manual had an error in the instruction here that was supposed to be corrected in a later edition (but maybe was never fixed).

Re: crank shaft fit up - Plastigage is easy to use to confirm proper bearing clearance. I also install and torque one bearing cap (main bearing and rod bearings) at a time. Then rotate the crank shaft after each cap is installed. If it is suddenly much more difficult to turn - stop and investigate. (note that installing the rod caps also means the piston & rings have been added and this will add a significant amount of drag so take that into account)



Eric Russell ~ Mebane, NC
1961 MGA #61, 1981 Alfa Romeo GTV6, 1984 Alfa Romeo Spider, 1991 Honda ST1100

tomstorey Tom Storey M
Chardon, OH, USA   USA
thanks...this is a relief

Zur Avatar
Zur Silver Member Dave H.
Amarillo, Texas, USA   USA
10 TRICKS TO REMOVE THAT STUCK, SEIZED, OR STRIPPED BOLT/NUT

I know many of you could have written this article, but many of us can learn much from it!

Eastwood Tips



Dave

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