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Tips, Tricks, Short-cuts & Cheats

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Skye Avatar
Skye Webmaster Skye Nott
Vancouver, BC, Canada   CAN
1964 Vespa VNB 125
1966 MG MGB "The Bomber RIP"
1983 Suzuki MC GS750E "Kate"
1986 Merkur XR4Ti "The Rally Car"    & more
As requested, here's a sticky topic to discuss homemade tools, modifying tools, using tools or other things in ways not intended, workarounds, substitutions, etc



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Maggie B Andrew H
San Francisco, California, USA   USA
After removing the carbs to be rebuilt, I was looking at the rack and pinion assembly normally not easily seen, not to mention accessible, from above.

I am wondering what can be done in this rare opportunity to clean and service this area.

Suggestions?

Andrew

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Gary E Avatar
Gary E Silver Member Gary Edwards
Kernersville, ,N.C., USA   USA
When you put the carbs back in use a cylinder head nut (tall nut) on the bottom mounting stud. that will allow better access to the nut with a wrench, also get a short cheap 9/16 box end wrench and grind it down thin around the box. This way you can easily install and remove the bottom nut.



Gary

ghnl Avatar
ghnl Eric Russell
Mebane, North Carolina, USA   USA
1961 MG MGA "Calvin"
I don't think there is a lot to access while the carbs are out. Check the steering U-joint (originals have a grease fitting, replacements might be 'greased for life') and make sure the U-joint clamping bolts are tight.

Easiest access to the steering rack is while the radiator is out. Note that the steering rack has what appear to be grease zerks but it actually takes 90wt gear oil - not grease (although I think some new replacement steering racks do take grease).



Eric Russell ~ Mebane, NC
1961 MGA #61, 1981 Alfa Romeo GTV6, 1984 Alfa Romeo Spider, 1991 Honda ST1100

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Rob Z Avatar
Rob Z Silver Member Rob Zucca
Camarillo, CA, USA   USA
1960 MG MGA
Good time to see if the tappet covers are leaking. Remove the heat shield and have a look.



"Time flies like an arrow......Fruit flies like a banana"

Mitchman2 Avatar
Mitchman2 Mitchell Andrus
Mills River, North Carolina, USA   USA
In reply to # 3472033 by Gary E When you put the carbs back in use a cylinder head nut (tall nut) on the bottom mounting stud. that will allow better access to the nut with a wrench, also get a short cheap 9/16 box end wrench and grind it down thin around the box. This way you can easily install and remove the bottom nut.

Boy, you ain't kidding. Good tip(s) for next time.... NEXT TIME. Where were you 10 months ago?



Buy a man a plane ticket and he flies for a day,
push a man out of an airplane and he'll fly for the rest of his life.

'30 Model A Ford
'48 MGTC
'58 MGA
'58 MGA

Maggie B Andrew H
San Francisco, California, USA   USA
Thank you all for the responses...

I agreed with Mitchell that Gary has the bright idea... I remembered when I tried to remove the carbs, what a PITA!

Now I understand why the later SUs (HS4?) were horizontal or diagonal mounted...

A.

Zur Avatar
Zur Silver Member Dave H.
Amarillo, Texas, USA   USA
Great tip on shortening & grinding down the 7 1/16" wrench!

I did something similar with a 1/2" combo wrench for the nuts on the back of the Volks air cleaners.
Well past the skinned knuckles, nuts dropped to floor, and vituperative swearing stages, I went to a junk shop and prowled through a bin of old, greasy wrenches.
I couldn't believe my luck to find a nice little SnapOn wrench for $2.00!
I cleaned it, sanded down the sharp ends and got those filter cans off & on, easy peasy. Having both the open & box ends made it even easier.
Next time I will grind down the wrench cheeks and it should be even more easier!

I love tips, short-cuts & cheats...



Dave

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Mitchman2 Avatar
Mitchman2 Mitchell Andrus
Mills River, North Carolina, USA   USA
The mods should pin a "Shortcuts and Cheats" thread at the top of the page.



Buy a man a plane ticket and he flies for a day,
push a man out of an airplane and he'll fly for the rest of his life.

'30 Model A Ford
'48 MGTC
'58 MGA
'58 MGA

Zur Avatar
Zur Silver Member Dave H.
Amarillo, Texas, USA   USA
In reply to # 3472590 by Mitchman2 The mods should pin a "Shortcuts and Cheats" thread at the top of the page.
Yes, great idea!
I have others and I'm sure we all do.
Some of the best tips are buried in the text of threads we may not read, or just miss.



Dave

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Skye Avatar
Skye Webmaster Skye Nott
Vancouver, BC, Canada   CAN
1964 Vespa VNB 125
1966 MG MGB "The Bomber RIP"
1983 Suzuki MC GS750E "Kate"
1986 Merkur XR4Ti "The Rally Car"    & more
.... I've merged the "while the carbs are out" topic above to get this Tips & Tricks topic started. Carry on! smileys with beer



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Gary E Avatar
Gary E Silver Member Gary Edwards
Kernersville, ,N.C., USA   USA
Now that I'm on a roll.... You can ease the R/R of air cleaners by replacing the bolts on top and bottom with a single bolt. Remove the bolts and put in a 1/4 SS bolt all the way through and use a serrated flange nut on the back. The nut will self tighten with slight finger pressure and makes the job a snap..



Gary


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Zur Avatar
Zur Silver Member Dave H.
Amarillo, Texas, USA   USA
That's a good one Gary...all these little time savers add up over time.

Re Flange nut. I've never used these except occasionally as a sub for a regular nut.
Do you torque them up the same as a split lock-washer?

Thanks!



Dave

Gary E Avatar
Gary E Silver Member Gary Edwards
Kernersville, ,N.C., USA   USA
Yes, once they engage you just tighten the bolt head as normal with out holding the nut.



Gary



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-03-30 10:17 AM by Gary E.

Zur Avatar
Zur Silver Member Dave H.
Amarillo, Texas, USA   USA
In reply to # 3478469 by Maggie B After removing the carbs to be rebuilt, I was looking at the rack and pinion assembly normally not easily seen, not to mention accessible, from above.

I am wondering what can be done in this rare opportunity to clean and service this area.

Suggestions?

Andrew

At the minimum it's a good opportunity for some "spot/area" cleaning & degreasing.
I'd plug all the engine openings with rags, get a good brand of aerosol engine degreaser & spray liberally but carefully into the lower grunge area.
Let set according to directions, then "blast it" with water. You need a "sharp edge" with the water, like holding your thumb over the end of the hose. Think hi-pressure/low volume.
Allow to drip/air dry and/or blow it out with the air from a vacuum cleaner if you can.
Any water spots left in the bay can be quickly removed with a clean cloth moistened with quick detailer. But you probably won't have this problem.

For a really good quality/low impact washing of the entire engine bay, I recommend "S100 Total Cycle Cleaner". It's pump-spray & same instructions as above. I've used it literally hundreds of times on show, racing & street motorcycles and MGA engine bay & body with excellent results. It does not strip wax.
It is a mild de-greaser and aluminum alloy brightener (not polish), as well as a cleaner. On something like a polished alloy valve cover, be sure to spray it on bottom to top, rinse top to bottom. That avoids streaking the alloy.
This is a German product and has been on the market since the 80s. It is endorsed & recommended by BMW, Harley Davidson, Triumph, Honda, etc. It's stocked by many of those dealers. You could get it from them locally, probably cheaper on-line. I think they also have an aerosol version, but you're wasting $ there. All of their many products are tops...no, I don't sell it. But I used to when I was in the motorcycle business!

S100 Total Cycle Cleaner (Click me)





Dave

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