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Door Hinges

Posted by Steve Mc 
Moss Motors
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Steve Mcnary
USA   usa
The driver's side hinges are prety well worn out on the MGA. I looked into perhaps replacement hinges and the consensus seems to be that the aftermarket hinges are pretty loose.

Anybody ever given rebuilding the MGA door hinges a try? It appears pretty straight forward to me.

Here's my plan: Remove the pin, drill out the moving hinge (the one with two tabs, the pin is fixed in the three tab half) to 5/16". I've got some 5/16" brass that I'll knurl and press in place for bushings. Drill those out 1/4", assemble and drive in a new pin. I'll make new pins out of cold roled mild steel rod. The pin that came out is slightly worn and bent. Mild steel won't likely last anywhere's near as long as the originals, but they'll probably outlast me.

I'm going to take a shot at it. Let you know if this little experiment crashes and burns on me.

HL Miller Avatar
Henry Miller
Chair City, NC, USA   usa
Sounds like a good plan- pics if you got 'em...

John Terschak
Kill Devil Hills, NC, USA   usa
1930 Ford Model A "Jenny"
1959 MG 14/28 "Jessie"
1974 MG MGB "Oooops"
Why don't you just get a chevy hinge pin and turn it down to fit or ream the hinge out to fit the pin?

I bought a set of MGA hinges from Moss and sent them back because of all the slop in them. They did send me another set and they had one that wasn't bad. But I had redone my old hinges and sent them back to them

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peter d Avatar
peter h
yorkshire, UK   gbr
1958 MG MGA Coupe
1977 MG MGB "Abomination"
You got me thinking about my hinges when i saw this thread.When i looked at them i realised that someone in the past must have had the same problem.What it seems they have done is drill/ream the hinges and fitted them (i dont know what they call them over there) with Bissell/Selock pins.

Don't know how long ago it was done.I ran the car for 4 years before the restoration and had no problem with door drop.There is no play in them, and if you close them up it is very difficult to open them.I think i will fit them as is and see how they do.

Im not saying anyone should do this but it is another option.

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John Terschak
Kill Devil Hills, NC, USA   usa
1930 Ford Model A "Jenny"
1959 MG 14/28 "Jessie"
1974 MG MGB "Oooops"
The pin is wrong. I can understand why the door are hard to open.

Go to your local parts store Like NAPA over here and see what hinge pins they have in stock. Then you can go from there. I'm sure you can get a local machinist to turn them down for a pint.


Thomas Furtwaengler
Baden-Württemberg, Germany   deu
this is a good idea i am sure this will work for more then ten years.

Steve Mcnary
USA   usa
Well, I guess it's been a success. I ended up making a couple of attempts before I got an acceptable result. First step was to knock out the hinge pins and drill the two tab half of the hinge 5/16" to accept the bushing.

I turned down a piece of 3/8" threaded brass rod down to 5/16" + .002" to provide an interference fit. I then drilled a 3/16" pilot hole through workpiece while it was still in the lathe. I didn't want the wall so thin that it would collapse when driven into the hinge tabs. The bushing workpiece is about 1 1/4" long so that I could drive it through both tabs from one side and it would in theory hold it's alignement. Once driven into the hinge, then I drilled it to finished size.

On the first attempt, I tried to drill through the 3/16" pilot directly with the 1/4" drill. The fit of the bushing was light enough that the drill bound up and spun the bushing in the hinge. I knocked those bushings out and tried it again. The second time I step drilled it 7/32", 15/64" and then the final 1/4". Then cut the center section of the bushing out between the tabs, and filed each end flat.

Next step was to grease both halfs of the hinge, assemble and insert a piece of 1/4" cold rolled mild steel in the hinge. I cut the top and bottom off 1/4" long and peaned the top into the splined side of the hinge. Then a light upset on the other end to keep the pin in place. Then file the ends to within 1/16" top and bottom. Hinge is nice and tight. We'll see how long it lasts.

I did this all Friday night before I read John's suggestion of using a Chevy hinge pin. That seems like it would work, too. If i had known an oversized pin was readily available, I would have tried that first. Maybe I'll do that on the passenger's side if I ever get around to it.

I don't know what size a Chevy hinge pin is, but a 3/16" hinge pin would be ideal. 5/16" would work too, but i wouldn't want to go any larger than that. I don't think the hinge would have enough wall thickness to support it. Turning down a hardened hinge pin wouldn't be that easy, at least not on my little lathe with steel cutting tools.

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