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Aluminum Side Covers

Posted by Basil Adams 
Basil Adams Avatar
About 12 miles from Sears Point, CA, USA   usa

If you've followed the discussion of one-piece aluminum side covers for MGB and MGA in the MGB forum, here's the latest. I contacted the guy that made them in the past and he wants $85 each for his. He has 2-3 on the shelf and would have to have more made to meet our needs. I contacted my friend that does CNC work for me and he said if I supplied the material that he'd make them for $40 each. I priced 4" x 1/2" 6061 aluminum bar and it's around $110 for a 12 foot length uincredible run up in metals prices). I'm not sure if I'd have to pay sales tax which would be another 8% ($8.80). I haven't measured exactly yet but I think I can get 8 plates out of each 12' length - 9 would be cool but I doubt it. Seven is a possibility. At 8 segments per length, I'd need 7 cuts per bar and those would cost me $3 per cut (thieves). So labor would be $40 and materials would be about $18 per plate for a total of $58 per unit. The ones previously made were anodized and this price does not include anodizing. I'm more inclined to paint mine the same color as the engine and anodizing would cost an extra $12-15 per unit. I figured that I'd let each of you make the choice of finish yourself. So figure that the final cost will be around $58-60. I'll spring for the gas and time to move stuff around and to get things shipped but everyone will be responsible for the cost of their own shipping. There was interest in 31 units during the discussion and I've been told that anything over 5 gets us all the labor cost reduction we can get (more doesn't lower the cost) and I'd prefer to commit to orders in units of 8 so that there isn't wasted material. If you are committed, I'll front the set-up and materials costs while deposits come in. If the price is more than you expected, I understand that the economy stinks and that not everyone can have everything they want. Email me, PM me, call me and let me know if you're in for sure.
Basil 707.762.0974 basiladams@yahoo.com



Basil C. Adams
1956 MGA Coupe (Show Car)
1957 MGA Roadster (Driver)
1958 MGA Coupe (Racecar)
1959 MGA Coupe (unrestored)
1960 MGA Coupe (unrestored)
1960 MGA Roadster (Driver)
MKIII Elva Courier (E1056)
1967 427 Cobra
1972 Alfa Romeo Montreal
A coupla late MGBs
1960 Austin Healy BN7
More Cars than Brains
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Michelle Pierce
Elyria, OH, USA   usa
1978 MG MGB "Mabie"
1995 GMC Suburban "The "Burb""
1999 Porsche 911
2007 Saturn Aura

PM Sent.
B..seein ya Avatar
Brian MacMillan
Seattle, USA   usa

PM sent. Will there be a provision for the crank case vent or will be required to drill that?
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B-racer Avatar
Jeff Schlemmer
Minnesota, USA   usa

Does this include recesses to hold the seals in place? How about the logo on the front? Hole is drilled for the bolt - does it have an O-ring groove to seal it from oil leaks or just flat? Vent?



jeff@advanceddistributors.com
PaulP Avatar
Paul Peterson
Seattle, WA, USA   usa
1973 MG MGB GT
1974 MG MGB

Basil - I've been out of the loop for a week or so. Is there a pic of the cover posted somewhere?

Thanks - Paul
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Frank Mooring
Rutherfordton, NC, USA   usa

Basil,
I agree with Jeff it would be really nice to get an o-ring groove for the bolt holes done to minimize the risk of leaks there as well. If we are going to do this we may as well do it right up front. Also I understand from your previous reply to me that each individual will need to decide if they want to vent them...I would wonder if perhaps you could provide two versions: one without and one with a tapped vent hole (more money) for those that wanted this already done. I realize that a single location would need to be chosen that hopefully would be universal for all possible set-ups. I am still very interested in one or two but would like to see if these issues can be addressed first. Thanks,
Frank
Basil Adams Avatar
About 12 miles from Sears Point, CA, USA   usa

All, There are definitely grooves on the back for the gaskets. I haven't thought about doing breathers in some and not in others because the location of the breathers should be at the discretion of each owner and there were a couple (maybe 3) different sizes and locations on the stock parts. So, like the Doug Jackson iteration, my thought was to deliver an unrelieved plate. In the past, the plates were constructed without an o-ring groove - a fiber washer was placed under the flat washer on the retaining bolt. I can ask about that and see if it'lss add significantly to the cost. Thanks Guys. Basil





Basil C. Adams
1956 MGA Coupe (Show Car)
1957 MGA Roadster (Driver)
1958 MGA Coupe (Racecar)
1959 MGA Coupe (unrestored)
1960 MGA Coupe (unrestored)
1960 MGA Roadster (Driver)
MKIII Elva Courier (E1056)
1967 427 Cobra
1972 Alfa Romeo Montreal
A coupla late MGBs
1960 Austin Healy BN7
More Cars than Brains
. You can hide this ad & support this site by upgrading to a Gold Membership ~ click here for more info
trawlings Avatar
Tom Rawlings
Lacey, Washington, USA   usa

Basil: You have a PM.
B-racer Avatar
Jeff Schlemmer
Minnesota, USA   usa

Thinking about the Bolt O-ring, it would have to be a special rubber washer/o-ring supplied with the cover to work properly, since it not only has to seal to the plate, but to the bolt as well. This is where using the original seal and washer would be just fine and save a bit of $, unless Basil comes up with the perfect washer and O-ring solution.



jeff@advanceddistributors.com
Frank Mooring
Rutherfordton, NC, USA   usa

Basil,
After going back and rereading the Doug Jackson site on this topic there is a paragraph discussing drilling the valve covers to add a K&N adapter hole (?filter). Is this necessary for all applications or just those that didn't have carb venting? For those of us with vent tubes on the valve cover as well as a vented cap that originally had a vent tube going to the carb from the tappet cover, are we likely to need to tap the cover and run a hose to the carb or simply add a T to the valve cover hose and run to both the charcoal cannister and carb? I realize crankcase ventilation is critical and trying to not "rock the boat" too much and end up with more problems than we started with just to stop an oil leak.
Frank
Speedracer Avatar
Hap Waldrop
Greenville, SC, USA   usa
1967 MG MGB "The Biscuit"

Who's going to see the logo guys?



Hap Waldrop
Acme Speed Shop
864-370-3000
Performance/Race engines-heads, and DIY engine rebuilt kits
New alloy wheels options for MGBs, see vendors forum for details.

Acme Speed Shop   – Greenville, SC USA MG/ Triumph Performance Street/Race Engines - Cylinder Head Porting - Modified SU HS Carbs - DIY Engine Rebuild Kits With Tech Advice - Alloy wheels for MGB/TR6
Frank Mooring
Rutherfordton, NC, USA   usa

Hap,
I don't see a need for a logo either....you don't even know my tappet covers exist behind my SC set-up.
Frank
Speedracer Avatar
Hap Waldrop
Greenville, SC, USA   usa
1967 MG MGB "The Biscuit"

Yeah, I seen some pretty cool ones on 1098 and 948 race cars, but the race cars don't run the heat shield, with the SC or the heat shields it will be totally cover up, it kinda be like the guys at the car show that take their oil caps off to show you their roller rockers smiling smiley Hey it ain't my gig, yall make them like you want. when we made the A-seres water pump they had slots in them, becuse my partner on these basicly bought a APT unit and copied wht David sold, I told him, you can't copy David's design, we're buddies, take it back to the CNC shop and put some slots in it, so we did, which did make it look cooler, but I did, so I didn't piss David off, then we started making them for Winner Circle, and Dave at WC wanted slanted slots, thought it looked cooler, told customer the pulley now acted like a fan to cool the water pump smiling smiley Bottom line that little water pump pulley got a lot of extra tweaks to satisfy folks, and it was a very visual piece. Kepping it simple would just keep the maching cost down, and make the product cheaper to sell. Half the CNC project I designe never got off the ground, because by the time the quote cam back for the CNC shop, the part wasn't cost effective to sell. We probably made the best ever double bearing hubs ofr racing Spridget ever made, but at the end of the day they ost too much to make and we couldn't market them with the competition and make a fair profit.

The coolest thing we ever made was the two reuseable piece stainless steel freeze plug, that design was bullit proof and for the racer it was a one time purchase, this would be great design for the MGB, but I doubt they nock my doors sown for a $100 set of freeze plugs.

Making parts is fun and cool stuff, it's the money being tied up that the bummer. You should hear all the work that went into the Battery Bin with Robert Clark, and how many Moss and VB ordered when he had invested so much in them, and finally had stock ready, he thought he was going to starve, eventually they did good for Robert, but manufacturing is not for the weak of heart that's for sure. If I ever won the lottery, it's probably what I would do.



Hap Waldrop
Acme Speed Shop
864-370-3000
Performance/Race engines-heads, and DIY engine rebuilt kits
New alloy wheels options for MGBs, see vendors forum for details.

Acme Speed Shop   – Greenville, SC USA MG/ Triumph Performance Street/Race Engines - Cylinder Head Porting - Modified SU HS Carbs - DIY Engine Rebuild Kits With Tech Advice - Alloy wheels for MGB/TR6
twentyover Avatar
Greg Fast
Burbs of Detroit MI, USA   usa

Rather than an O-ring, you may want to look at a Parker Stat-O Seal- with a stepped drill, the cut could be made with a single operation with the drilling. A true O-ring would be a milled feature that would take more time.

Alternately, you could tell these guys to use a copper sealing washer
Basil Adams Avatar
About 12 miles from Sears Point, CA, USA   usa

Greg,

The only issue with either the o-ring or a stepped drill is that either would have to be cut from the other side 9front) of the plate. The CNC costs I was quoted assumed that everything could be machined from one side 9the back). I'm checking to see if there's an insert with a rubber piece like used on Japanese cars for the valve cover. So far all I've found are 6mm and the tapped boss/receiver in the block for the bolt threads is 5/16". I don't think that 6mm would work. I'll look at the copper sealing washer - that seems like a reasonable alternative. Thanks.



Basil C. Adams
1956 MGA Coupe (Show Car)
1957 MGA Roadster (Driver)
1958 MGA Coupe (Racecar)
1959 MGA Coupe (unrestored)
1960 MGA Coupe (unrestored)
1960 MGA Roadster (Driver)
MKIII Elva Courier (E1056)
1967 427 Cobra
1972 Alfa Romeo Montreal
A coupla late MGBs
1960 Austin Healy BN7
More Cars than Brains



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/01/2008 05:18PM by Basil Adams.
Frank Mooring
Rutherfordton, NC, USA   usa

Do the copper sealing washers require more torque than we will want to exert on the plate to become effective...or is the single plate cover not likely to deform under the torque required to make them work?
Basil Adams Avatar
About 12 miles from Sears Point, CA, USA   usa

Frank and Greg:
Frank, I had the same concern you did but was more concerned that the copper sealing washer might not be reuseable. I've checked into a stainless/rubber washer that would work perfectly but the EDPM insert is only rated at 250 degrees so with the proximity to the exhaust, I'd be uncomfortable. There is also a sealing washer that is steel with a silicone insert that's rated at 500 degrees but they're about $3.50 each. I know they'd be reuseable but they'd cost more than machining the front side for an o-ring insert. What do you guys think? Basil





Basil C. Adams
1956 MGA Coupe (Show Car)
1957 MGA Roadster (Driver)
1958 MGA Coupe (Racecar)
1959 MGA Coupe (unrestored)
1960 MGA Coupe (unrestored)
1960 MGA Roadster (Driver)
MKIII Elva Courier (E1056)
1967 427 Cobra
1972 Alfa Romeo Montreal
A coupla late MGBs
1960 Austin Healy BN7
More Cars than Brains
sweep Avatar
Chris W
Gosford, NSW, Australia   aus
1966 MG MGB "Basil"
1990 Nissan Patrol "(Patrol) The Beast"
1992 Subaru Legacy "(Liberty)"

Basil Adams Wrote:
Quote: ...I'll look at the copper sealing washer - that seems like a reasonable alternative. Thanks.

Question on copper and aluminium - electrolysis/corrosion issue.

Chris
twentyover Avatar
Greg Fast
Burbs of Detroit MI, USA   usa

There is a significcant risk of galvanic corrosion in the presence of an electrolyte (0.6V potential), but by virtue of the intent (a SEALING washer) the probablility of electrolye intrusion into the sealing surface is low (patticularly in the heat near the exhaust manifold)
mac townsend Avatar
Fairfield, CA, USA   usa

a flat fiber or even Nylon washer...what's wrong with that? Has worked for oil pan plugs for years. Could probably buy new for a dime at the hardware store any time.

The compressible copper washers can often be reused by annealing them (heat 'em glowing hot then drop in a cup of water)--works a coupel times, but not forever. but it is better to replace and Ace Hardware doesn't carry the compressible types...just solid.

OTOH, how often do you need to R&R the covers?

Isn't the idea of these billet pieces so that you can get a solid gasket seal to the block without tweaking the tin cover...if so, if it works, the damn thing's there for life...no?

Personally I am not convinced it is a worthwhile expenditure...since I don't think I've had a leakage problem. but I CAN be convinced<G> Just wasn't at what Doug wanted for one.<G>



1973 Roadster. A nice 50-footer!
SUs, Datsun 5-speed
MGB Tips and Tricks: www.mgrescue.com
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