The original wood strips look about like a piece of yardstick with about 3/4" holes drilled in them to where they center over the seat mount bolt holes. Then there are metal spacers the same thickness as the wood that go into the 3/4" holes so you don't bend the seat mounts when you tighten them down. Looks kinda silly to me to drill out the wood and insert metal when the bolts don't have to be tight enough to compress wood in the first place. When I rebuilt my car I rebuilt the seats at the same time. To make the seats fit my wife and I better I put in 3/4" wood strips, but I made the bolt holes just right for the bolts to slip through. Be carefull about how thick of wood you use with good firm seats. I'm about 5'7" tall and the wood I
installed is just right for me and her. A six footer would be a close fit with the top up and a windy ride with it down.
I have read a article somewhere about the tapered pieaces you ar talking about with the high point at the front of the seet apparently to relive some of the pressure of the back of your legs have never seen but have heard the work
When I first got my 'B',I concluded that Brits must have different length legs, left to right( I'm a Brit, and I don't!). On a drive of any length , my right leg would ache from holding it up while the cluth leg rested nigely on the seat. I figured I could put tapered strips under the seat (Yes, 3/4" at front) but the solution was to hacksaw 1" from directly beneath the gas pedal pad, leaving enough for threading, rejoined it with a treaded coupling and Bingo, I have driven in great comfort ever since.
I'm not quite following what you did with the gas pedal pad. Can you go into more detail? I'm 6'2" and I have the same problem with my right leg. I eliminated the wood strips completely from under the seat runners. I like to sit low in a car, but I'm considering raising just the front of the seat for more comfort. I've done that with every car I've owned (raise the front of the seat).
Yeh,I found the gas pedal too high relative to the other pedals.If you take out the gas pedal you will see will see a straight section beneath the metal pedal pad.I cut out a piece 1"long (as previous post),then reconnected,by threading with a die and a threaded coupling (available at any hardware store store),thus reducing the height of the pedal so it fit in with the other pedals.If this is not clear feel free to call me at (808) 572 7181.
I have the same problem. Looking through the top of the windshield frame. I rebuilt my seats with new webbing, foam and covers and it seems to sit higher. Did you just take out the metal spaceers and the wood strips and let the tracks sit on the floor? Does the seat still adjust forward and backward??
Exactly right. I just bolted the seat track assembly directly to the floor. The bottom section of the track is stationary with or without the wood spacer. Seats will adjust forward or back normally as the upper section of the seat runner is the moveable section. It is unaffected by this situation. On my last B when I replaced the webbing I strung It loose to where it almost would touch the floor when you sat on the seat. It was great! Found myself looking thru the windshield at the top of the steering wheel. Seat was more comfortable, too. Much more of a bucket-- sit in it instead of on it. I might do that with my current B as soon as I get everything else finished.