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JoeReed Avatar
JoeReed Gold Member Joe Reed
Cordova, Tennessee, USA   USA
1978 MG MGB "Kermit"
In reply to # 3658194 by late 64 easy way as you suggest. normal closed contacts on another relay that is turned "on" when you have your high beams on this would break the circuit to the low beams on the DRL side when in use..........thumbs up

Where were you a couple of hours ago when we needed you! smiling bouncing smiley My head hurts from thinking about electrons...




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DrewM Avatar
DrewM Silver Member Drew Maddock
74 MGB roadster, Southern California, USA   USA
I also generally drive with my headlights on (low beam), but be careful you don't park somewhere and forget your lights are on. There's a solution to that which is to do a small rewiring job that turns off your headlights when the ignition switch is turned off. It requires a fairly simple wiring kit, but as simple as it is I still had an auto electrician install it for me, so no point in asking me how to install it. As for the kit, I'm not sure if Moss or VB sells it, but I've seen it somewhere. Maybe on Amazon? Not sure.



Drew Maddock, So. Calif. USofA

late 64 Terry O
Milton, Ont, Canada   CAN
if you want true DLR lights , add a relay that will turn on the headlights when you have the ignition turned on, this will work for headlights only and use low beam, when you actually turn on the headlight switch this will override the relay but will work the same as it will be dark when you activate the headlights switch....... or you could , not use a relay but use the headlight switch but wire in a buzzer that will alarm you if you turn off the ignition but leave your headlights on. same as newer cars....... again using a relay to activate the buzzer......... something else for you to think about how you would like it.......thumbs up

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V8MGBV8 Avatar
V8MGBV8 Carl Floyd
Kinggsport, TN, USA   USA
In reply to # 3658162 by 78mgb

I use my brights all of the time. The newer cars have really bright driving lights. So I figure that my brights (halogens) are about the same.

In addition to being a higher wattage, the high beams are designed to illuminate farther down the road. So, you are putting a brighter light directly into the eyes of the oncoming drivers. I am bothered by the seemingly ever brighter headlights of new cars, but this is not a good solution.

Failed to mention that it is illegal to run high beams when there is traffic.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-01-08 10:59 AM by V8MGBV8.

SpiritedMotoring Avatar
SpiritedMotoring Silver Member Tim Ross
Fredericton, NB, Canada   CAN
1972 MG MGB
1974 MG MGB
Recently our province said all cars require DRL's and I am forgetful to turn on the headlights plus it is a heavy load on a 45 year old wiring system (I am using relays that I got from Limey).

From the UK I obtained LHD LUCAS H4 bulb conversion headlights with a pilot light in the 6 o'clock position. The pilot lights are equivalent to a 5 watt sidelight bulb. I plan to use bright white LED bulbs and use a simple wire to the ignition on circuit. At 10 watts a relay is not likely required. It is a simple system.

lgorg Avatar
lgorg Larry Gorg
Renton, WA, USA   USA
1966 MG MGB "Robbie"
Was looking in Astley's MGB Electrical Systems and found the chapter on transmissions. For activating DRL, there is an inhibitor switch on the transmission fitted on cars from 71 to 74. It closes contacts when the car is in gear. That inhibitor switch was used for cars with the fun stuff that did not work very well, like the sequential sea tbelts fastened, door closed, and transmission out of gear before the car would start. That switch is useful for allowing the DRL to only come on with the car in gear. That switch is also easy to access from under the car. If you have Astley's book, its on page 141. IMHO, it beats having the DRL come on with the ignition, but its your car.

Also, Astley mentions that the hole that the inhibitor switch is on all transmissions, unfortunately, if the transmission did not have an inhibitor switch in it, you can not retrofit the switch, as the threads are different.

Donthuis Avatar
Donthuis Don van Riet
Rijswijk, ZH, Netherlands   NLD
Indeed I remember this inhibitor switch only worked this way for a limited number of years. Astley mentioned something to this effect when debating this extra relay option for preventing the engine from being started when any gear is engaged. I have this relay added to my CBB, it is a 1972 USA CBB and the wire running to this switch is accessible below the bonnet at the rear near to the bulkhead

Once you use a relay to those DLR's one can just as well let it be switched from the one from the bottom fuse position, so the lights go out with the ignition switched off. The relay issue is not about the load on the circuit, but preventing a power drain with the engine switched off. I introduced a similar relay circuit for my additional electric fan to prevent current drain on standstill the same way eye rolling smiley

BTW, since the current is so low on DRL's, one can also connect them in parallel to the feed to radio and wiper motor, which both come on from the first ignition switch position onwards thumbs up
This type of connection also removes the possibility of draining the battery IF of course you do not leave the key in this position for listening to the radio grinning smiley

In reply to # 3661512 by lgorg Was looking in Astley's MGB Electrical Systems and found the chapter on transmissions. For activating DRL, there is an inhibitor switch on the transmission fitted on cars from 71 to 74. It closes contacts when the car is in gear. That inhibitor switch was used for cars with the fun stuff that did not work very well, like the sequential sea tbelts fastened, door closed, and transmission out of gear before the car would start. That switch is useful for allowing the DRL to only come on with the car in gear. That switch is also easy to access from under the car. If you have Astley's book, its on page 141. IMHO, it beats having the DRL come on with the ignition, but its your car.

Also, Astley mentions that the hole that the inhibitor switch is on all transmissions, unfortunately, if the transmission did not have an inhibitor switch in it, you can not retrofit the switch, as the threads are different.



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 2018-01-14 05:34 AM by Donthuis.

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John Morrison Avatar
John Morrison John B. Morrison
Collierville, TN, USA   USA
I got into the DRL project yesterday; was thinking about an "Ignition on" power source (looks like the middle 2 fuses on the fuse block). Thinking the oil pressure sender, so the DRL's come on with oil pressure?

Also considering the unused O/D connector (yellow wire) in the harness (right side of the firewall, near the charcoal canister). If I used that, then I'd have to leave the O/D selector (wiper stalk) in the "ON" position.

Cheers,

JBM

In reply to # 3661512 by lgorg Was looking in Astley's MGB Electrical Systems and found the chapter on transmissions. For activating DRL, there is an inhibitor switch on the transmission fitted on cars from 71 to 74. It closes contacts when the car is in gear. That inhibitor switch was used for cars with the fun stuff that did not work very well, like the sequential sea tbelts fastened, door closed, and transmission out of gear before the car would start. That switch is useful for allowing the DRL to only come on with the car in gear. That switch is also easy to access from under the car. If you have Astley's book, its on page 141. IMHO, it beats having the DRL come on with the ignition, but its your car.

Also, Astley mentions that the hole that the inhibitor switch is on all transmissions, unfortunately, if the transmission did not have an inhibitor switch in it, you can not retrofit the switch, as the threads are different.



'71 B-GT
'05 Honda S-2000
Factory 5 Racing MkIII Roadster (Cobra Replica) project

MGBGTee Avatar
MGBGTee Gold Member Henri Lefebvre
Calgary, Alberta, Canada   CAN
In reply to # 3658241 by DrewM I also generally drive with my headlights on (low beam), but be careful you don't park somewhere and forget your lights are on. There's a solution to that which is to do a small rewiring job that turns off your headlights when the ignition switch is turned off. It requires a fairly simple wiring kit, but as simple as it is I still had an auto electrician install it for me, so no point in asking me how to install it. As for the kit, I'm not sure if Moss or VB sells it, but I've seen it somewhere. Maybe on Amazon? Not sure.


I also use the headlights most of the time when I drive the MGB GT.
After forgetting the headlights ON once, I installed a headlight warning buzzer which sounds the alarm when the headlights are on and ignition off.

Two webpages that might help:

http://www.douglas.com/index.php/400-headlights-left-on-reminder.html

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et245.htm



Henri Lefebvre
Calgary, Alberta

NAMGBR member 16-6307

71 MGB GT, Midnight Blue
80 TR8, Platinum Silver

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grahamts Avatar
grahamts Graham Prosser
Chelmsford, Essex, UK   GBR
Here is a circuit that switches off DRLs when the headlights are operated, you can modify it in various ways depending on what you wish to do.
Graham



Take a look at my journal for a more complete view of my restoromod:
http://www.mgexp.com/journal/grahamts/15298


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Donthuis Avatar
Donthuis Don van Riet
Rijswijk, ZH, Netherlands   NLD
Why need the DRL's be switched OFF in case of HB or LB on? The original, USA approved wiring I had in my 1972 model had the (bulbtype) DRL's wired for "constant on "when driving in all conditions.
Of course, when put on the road in Europe (Belgium) my front ones were disconnected and the plastic glasses of the rear ones lacquered on the inside. I took the lacquer of the rear ones off myself and connected all right and left ones to the respective indicator feed lines many years ago. Extra side indicator lights are almost standard in Europe thumbs up

Last year saw me converting these DRL's to amber and red LED's and together with replacing all other bulbs with LED's and after converting to LED flasher units power consumption is down a lot...
If I would live in Canada or the USA I would wire them for constant on again in all driving conditions. 4 LED DRL's would draw 10 Watts max, or even as low as 5Watts, a negligable amount eye rolling smiley

PS Scandivavian countries introduced the concept of "constant on" LB lighting when driving, daylight situations included and this was later extended to some other European countries.
But older cars are exempt from this ruling, which is just as well: lots of early cars developed alternator failures by this high, constant LB load (of around 110-130 Watts for just the H4's alone)

In reply to # 3661761 by grahamts Here is a circuit that switches off DRLs when the headlights are operated, you can modify it in various ways depending on what you wish to do.
Graham



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-01-15 04:14 AM by Donthuis.

grahamts Avatar
grahamts Graham Prosser
Chelmsford, Essex, UK   GBR
Don, I cannot think of any really good reasons to switch off DRLs when switching on headlights, but that circuit gives the option if wanted.
Graham



Take a look at my journal for a more complete view of my restoromod:
http://www.mgexp.com/journal/grahamts/15298

davidalancondon Avatar
davidalancondon david condon
hemigfordgrey, cambridgshire, UK   GBR
1968 MG MGC "HOOLIGAN"
I fitted my drl via ignition. Fused relay on all the time have been installed for 4 years no problems also have just received h4 led headlamp bulbs direct fitment NO wireing I did however install a new head lamp loom about 2 years ago My drl are installed behind the grill


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Rob-USLE Avatar
Rob-USLE Rob DE JOODE
Rotterdam, ZH, Netherlands   NLD
In reply to # 3662050 by Donthuis Why need the DRL's be switched OFF in case of HB or LB on? The original, USA approved wiring I had in my 1972 model had the (bulbtype) DRL's wired for "constant on "when driving in all conditions.
Of course, when put on the road in Europe (Belgium) my front ones were disconnected and the plastic glasses of the rear ones lacquered on the inside. I took the lacquer of the rear ones off myself and connected all right and left ones to the respective indicator feed lines many years ago. Extra side indicator lights are almost standard in Europe thumbs up

Last year saw me converting these DRL's to amber and red LED's and together with replacing all other bulbs with LED's and after converting to LED flasher units power consumption is down a lot...
If I would live in Canada or the USA I would wire them for constant on again in all driving conditions. 4 LED DRL's would draw 10 Watts max, or even as low as 5Watts, a negligable amount eye rolling smiley

PS Scandivavian countries introduced the concept of "constant on" LB lighting when driving, daylight situations included and this was later extended to some other European countries.
But older cars are exempt from this ruling, which is just as well: lots of early cars developed alternator failures by this high, constant LB load (of around 110-130 Watts for just the H4's alone)

In reply to # 3661761 by grahamts Here is a circuit that switches off DRLs when the headlights are operated, you can modify it in various ways depending on what you wish to do.
Graham

Don, I think to are confused with the tem DRL's. Your 1970's (and all upto 1980's) B's for the US had orange/amber lights on the front and red on the rear fenders/wings on and of course amber lights in the front bumper (RB) and above the front bumper (CB), those on the front had a double function blinking/turning (21W) and parking (5W).
The orange/amber light came on with the parking lights and stayed on with low/high beamso you could drive the car without lights at all.
The term DRL's was invinted somewhere in the late 90's if i'm correct and being a white light.

In our small country the lights on the fenders were not allowed to work, even the reflector on the rear fenders had to be covered one time.
Nowadays the side lights on the fenders are by law allowed to be burning again, personally I rewired the ones on the front to be an extra turning signal lamp only.

Herewith DRL's under the bumper of my US-LE also in driving conditions, note the MGF driving behind the B' has halogeen lights (H7) switched on.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-01-15 06:38 AM by Rob-USLE.


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davidalancondon Avatar
davidalancondon david condon
hemigfordgrey, cambridgshire, UK   GBR
1968 MG MGC "HOOLIGAN"
What's the problem I fitted drl about 4years ago led connected to the ignition circuit via a relay never been a problem on all the time ???fitted behind the rad plus I have installed h4 led headlamp bulbs pushfit on to original wires no problem


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