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Brake linesd

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tesa Avatar
tesa Terry B
Brisbane, queensland, Australia   AUS
Does anyone know the lengths of a RHD MK ll mgb roadster brake lines. I can't find the information anywhere. Any help appreciated

Terry

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melbaver Avatar
melbaver Gold Member Chris Howells
Broadwater NSW, Australia   AUS
1968 MG MGB "Moneypit"
1996 Jeep Cherokee "Shopping Trolley"
I bought the kit, enough work in all the bends you make, but at least you don't have to worry about length or fittings.

If you're going to build your own I found this useful information which would enable you to buy a bulk roll of cunifer tubing.

It's a blog by Steve.

SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2009

Building brake lines
I'm having trouble understanding/finding information about the brake lines on a mgb. So I'm going to post this so I can prove to myself that I understand what I'm doing.

MGB Brake lines:

- Bubble Flared except where you meet a female nut, then it's a inverted/double flare.
- 3/16 OD ( -3 ) & 1/8 Bore
- Some connecting ends are 3/8 x 24 others are 7/16

Brake lines are flared for male (bubble) or female (inverted/double).
8 Brake lines in total.
3 Female nuts, where connecting to rubber hose, i.e. both front brakes & the connector into the 3 way splitter in the rear.

Rear Brake lines on the axle:
- Right side are 16 inches with two bubble flares & male nuts
- Left side are 46 inches with two bubble flares & male nuts


The 4 way has 3/8 & 7/16 size connectors. From upper left hand corner and clockwise
- 3/8 Master Cylinder
- 7/16 Master Cylinder
- 7/16 Front Brakes
- 7/16 Front Brakes
- 3/8 Rear Brakes



Female 3/8 x 24 nut
http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?pCode=065.645


Possible solution:
http://www.fedhillusa.com/?page=home
http://www.fedhillusa.com/webnuts/common%20flares6.pdf
http://www.fedhillusa.com/?page=tech2


Good directions:
http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/0501cl_brake_line_basics/index.html
http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspension/flaretool/ft-1.htm

See https://www.bmw-mania.com/web/SCatagory/BRAKES/DisplayType/Calver%27s%20Corner/DisplayID/1510/ArticleV.cfm

"There are two types of end - male and female. The male end is convex in shape, the female concave. The male end is used where a male pipe union (nut) is used on the brake pipe - that's a nut with an external thread - that will be screwed into a female fitting such as found in a wheel cylinder or master cylinder. The female end is used where a female pipe union (nut) is used on the brake pipe - a nut with an internal thread - and will be mated to a male fitting such as found on rear flexible brake pipes. "


http://www.theymightberacing.com/ShopTech/FuelBrakeLineFabrication.aspx


Fuel lines.
Rubber are 1/4 ID (near carb's) & 5/16 ID



Chris Howells

1968 MGB Purchased already dis-assembled but which is largely back together so I'm a lot less ignorant.

MGB567 Avatar
MGB567 Gold Member Barrie Braxton
Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia   AUS
1966 MG MGB MkI "Money Guzzler"
1979 MG MGB GT V8 Conversion "Darkside"
Wondering why you're asking - you don't have your lines anymore? Does your car have the single line system? Which lines do you need?

As Melbaver notes the lines don't come as a pre-cut union and flared item so replacement is via a rolled up tube which you cut to size, add unions (3/8 UNF), and flare. But you may have noticed that all my lines on my Mk1 are Goodridge PTFE. To achieve that I measured each of my lines and then provided those to a company in Canberra. It's possible I still have that info but on an old dead computer and finding it would be an exercise so I need to know what you want and why so I at least know before trying to find it that I have the info youneed.



Convertible: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67. Owned since 3/77. 90% original sheet metal. 18GB +40 balanced with almost all new internals. Peter Burgess big valve fast road head. Piper 285. Fidanza FW. Basil's followers and pushrods. TR7clutch. TT exhaust. ARP everywhere. 123 ign. Needham 4synchro c/r box.. Stock rebuilt/replaced suspension. Superpro bushes. New brakes all round including all pipes in SS flex. Interior redone. CAMS approved roll bar and side bars. Lots more. Hybrid of o/e and show/fast road car. Not for sale - it's my toy!

GT: UK car built/sold December '78. Stripped back to bare shell (with extensive bodywork to come). Powered by 'worked' Rover 5 litre V8 (ex TVR Chimera) with efi. T5 box. FC IFS. CCE rear attached to Salisbury axle with Quaife. And a whole lot more to yet to come. Stealth is the word.

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OzDave Avatar
OzDave Dave Barton
London, Ontario, Canada   CAN
G'Day Terry,

At this very moment, I am doing new brake lines on my Aussie 1972 Mk II RHD roadster, no servo, single line. I’m guessing your car would be the same configuration and assuming that you don’t have the old lines at hand. The rear axle is off the car and the shell is on a rotisserie so it’s convenient for this task. I bought a kit from MGOC (Part No. F151 for this car) for £58 plus shipping. That particular kit included two extra lines for a servo so some spare tubing at hand if I stuff up one of the shorter lines. I decided this was an easier path than flogging around with a new roll of copper, cutting/flaring and not a big cost difference.

The kit has all the fittings and "should" be the “correct” lengths; the lines are rolled when you get them with the fittings on them. As Melbaver says, the bending is a bit of fun.winking smiley But it's not a perfect world as the old and new are not exactly the same length. I just measured both and here are the numbers (mm):

OLD
LEFT REAR 1,167
RIGHT REAR 410
MAIN LINE 2,391
LEFT FRONT 1,355
RIGHT FRONT 595
SERVO TO UNION 665

NEW
LEFT REAR 1,185
RIGHT REAR 455
MAIN LINE 2,534
LEFT FRONT 1,325
RIGHT FRONT 670
SERVO TO UNION 655

The differences could be down to several things – how keen the apprentice was in Zetland back in 1972 on a Friday arvo (the lines looked pretty … casual), the supplier of the new lines and the process for building them and last but not least, my measuring technique using my wife’s cloth tape measure (I was warned not to get it dirty!). I did measure 2-3 times, especially where the difference was greater.

I just finished the right rear and accommodated the extra length by increasing the radius on a couple of bends so it met up with comfortably the three-way union. Doing the left one today (photo). I hope to manage the others with a few creative bends and get away without having to do any cuts and flares. The flex hose (braided Goodridge) on the long line gives some flexibility but I will wait until I get the axle back on before finalizing this one. (an aside – Google images of MGB brakes line – they go all over the place ). Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Dave

OzDave Avatar
OzDave Dave Barton
London, Ontario, Canada   CAN
G'Day Terry,

At this very moment, I am doing new brake lines on my Aussie 1972 Mk II RHD roadster, no servo, single line. I’m guessing your car would be the same configuration and assuming that you don’t have the old lines at hand. The rear axle is off the car and the shell is on a rotisserie so it’s convenient for this task. I bought a kit from MGOC (Part No. F151 for this car) for £58 plus shipping. That particular kit included two extra lines for a servo so some spare tubing at hand if I stuff up one of the shorter lines. I decided this was an easier path than flogging around with a new roll of copper, cutting/flaring and not a big cost difference.

The kit has all the fittings and "should" be the “correct” lengths; the lines are rolled when you get them with the fittings on them. As Melbaver says, the bending is a bit of fun.winking smiley But it's not a perfect world as the old and new are not exactly the same length. I just measured both and here are the numbers (mm):

OLD
LEFT REAR 1,167
RIGHT REAR 410
MAIN LINE 2,391
LEFT FRONT 1,355
RIGHT FRONT 595
SERVO TO UNION 665

NEW
LEFT REAR 1,185
RIGHT REAR 455
MAIN LINE 2,534
LEFT FRONT 1,325
RIGHT FRONT 670
SERVO TO UNION 655

The differences could be down to several things – how keen the apprentice was in Zetland back in 1972 on a Friday arvo (the lines looked pretty … casual), the supplier of the new lines and the process for building them and last but not least, my measuring technique using my wife’s cloth tape measure (I was warned not to get it dirty!). I did measure 2-3 times, especially where the difference was greater.

I just finished the right rear and accommodated the extra length by increasing the radius on a couple of bends so it met up with comfortably the three-way union. Doing the left one today (photo). I hope to manage the others with a few creative bends and get away without having to do any cuts and flares. The flex hose (braided Goodridge) on the long line gives some flexibility but I will wait until I get the axle back on before finalizing this one. (an aside – Google images of MGB brakes line – they go all over the place ). Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Dave

OzDave Avatar
OzDave Dave Barton
London, Ontario, Canada   CAN
Grrrrrrrrrrrr ! hot smiley ( Hit the wrong key (twice !) and it posted before I finished editing trying to line the numbers up. Sorry about the, hope it makes sense. And here is the photo that didn't make it the first two times,

Cheers,
Dave


Attachments:
MG resto-8403.jpg    50.7 KB
MG resto-8403.jpg

MGB567 Avatar
MGB567 Gold Member Barrie Braxton
Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia   AUS
1966 MG MGB MkI "Money Guzzler"
1979 MG MGB GT V8 Conversion "Darkside"
Well that saves me interrogating my old computer thumbs up. FWIW no bending necessary with PTFE but the cost is way beyond £58 but then labour to assemble them was included in my cost but I still had to attach them. Notwithstanding the cost I'm repeating the PTFE exercise on the GT but it has a modified braking system.



Convertible: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67. Owned since 3/77. 90% original sheet metal. 18GB +40 balanced with almost all new internals. Peter Burgess big valve fast road head. Piper 285. Fidanza FW. Basil's followers and pushrods. TR7clutch. TT exhaust. ARP everywhere. 123 ign. Needham 4synchro c/r box.. Stock rebuilt/replaced suspension. Superpro bushes. New brakes all round including all pipes in SS flex. Interior redone. CAMS approved roll bar and side bars. Lots more. Hybrid of o/e and show/fast road car. Not for sale - it's my toy!

GT: UK car built/sold December '78. Stripped back to bare shell (with extensive bodywork to come). Powered by 'worked' Rover 5 litre V8 (ex TVR Chimera) with efi. T5 box. FC IFS. CCE rear attached to Salisbury axle with Quaife. And a whole lot more to yet to come. Stealth is the word.

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tesa Avatar
tesa Terry B
Brisbane, queensland, Australia   AUS
Hi

Thanks for thats its exatly what I need. Your car is the same setup as my 1969 Mkll

Regards

Terry

OzDave Avatar
OzDave Dave Barton
London, Ontario, Canada   CAN
No worries mate. I can't promise the lengths are superbly accurate but you can always adjust a few mil with the bending.

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