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Nut question

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Nut question
#1
  This topic is about my 1973 MG MGB
lehmanb Avatar
lehmanb Bart Lehman
columbia, s.carolina, USA   USA
1962 Austin-Healey 3000 "Driver"
1973 MG MGB
I can't seem to find any nuts in my extensive inventory that fits the six srews on the dashboard that attaches it to the car. Does anyone know the size and thread count? I've already tried many ASA and Metric and none work on any of the 6 screws. Could it be UNF? All help is appreciated.

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course2kid Jeffrey Johnson
Fountain Valley, CA, USA   USA
1979 MG MGB "Lucy (Lucifer)"
I just measured the studs on my dash since it's out, and found them to be 1/4-28 (UNF).

Fairfield, CA, USA   USA
very very few threads on an MGB are NOT fine thread (or UNF). Only those that screw into drilled and tapped holes in iron or alloy are coarse (UNC) thread.

1/4-28 is correct for those little buggers.



1973 Pale Primrose Roadster. A nice 10-footer!
SUs, Datsun 5-speed

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ozieagle Avatar
ozieagle Gold Member Herb Adler
Geelong Victoria, Australia   AUS
1958 Wolseley 1500 "Wooly"
1966 MG MGB "Bl**dy B"
Also no metric threads, but could be some whitworth. BA screws are used on the carbs and instruments and the crossed head screws are POZIDRIVE not Phillips.

Herb



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lehmanb Avatar
lehmanb Bart Lehman
columbia, s.carolina, USA   USA
1962 Austin-Healey 3000 "Driver"
1973 MG MGB
Thanks to all who responded. Yes,the nut is UNF 1/4-28. I dug a little deeper into my stash and located a bag of them from Moss and they fit perfectly. Good luck there....don't have to buy any. Thanks again, Bart

GTgeezer Avatar
GTgeezer Lynn Kirkpatrick
Columbia City, Indiana, USA   USA
Just a suggestion, 1 or 2 of those nuts are a real pita to get at. I used flanged nuts because I didn't want to fiddle with washers. I chased the stud threads with a die and made sure the nuts started real easy. Then I used a 1/4" drill and drilled the threads out of the nut about a 1/16" and ran a tap through them, so that there was a nice pilot hole for the nuts to slide onto and align with the stud. I also used a shallow socket so that the nut wasn't swallowed up and would start on the stud. And I used a flexible extension, guided by a coat hanger to get the nut in the right place (pic attached). To tighten the nut, I used a combination of wobble extensions to get it tight.

Yeah, I know, drilling out part of the threads reduces the nut strength, but these are only dash nuts and there isn't much load on them. You mainly want to prevent rattles have the dash and cowl line up and look good. Some people leave out some of those nuts, but I didn't for the same reasons. The dash is the hardest thing I worked, so far, so take your time and it will turn out OK. I still wonder how they did it on the assembly line.
Good luck



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