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how to protect yellow passivation?

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Floats Avatar
Floats Chris Langeveld
Mossel Bay, Western Province, South Africa   ZAF
Hi Guys,
Can anyone help with my question 'how to protect yellow passivation'? I have newly plated parts which I would like to protect from dulling and eventual corrosion.
Any ideas?
Regards
Chris

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Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, Alabama, USA   USA
Chris,
I would think that a clear coat is the best way.
Rut



1960 Bugeye undergoing restoration, 1275
1970 MGB, Pale Primrose
1967 Triumph TR4a
1966 Triumph TR4a
When I went to school, they asked me what I wanted to be when I grew up. I wrote down 'happy'. They told me I didn't understand the assignment, and I told them they didn't understand life. John Lennon

course2kid Jeffrey Johnson
Fountain Valley, CA, USA   USA
1979 MG MGB "Lucy (Lucifer)"
If you are referring to aluminum parts that were anodized, they can be painted without primer. A clear spray paint (preferrably with good UV resistance) would preserve the yellow appearance.

If you are referring to Al parts that were chem filmed (also referred to as chemical conversion coating or Alodine), I believe you need to prime before painting.

EDIT:
If you are referring to cadmium plated steel parts, I believe you can paint them directly without primer.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-10-12 09:56 AM by course2kid.

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Floats Avatar
Floats Chris Langeveld
Mossel Bay, Western Province, South Africa   ZAF
TKS Rut and Jeffrey,
Yep, I am refering to metal parts, electroplated and then the plating process 'passivated' by a silvery or yellow coating, called silver or bright passivate and gold or yellow passivate. I believe you can also get black and green.
I would like to protect and maintain the yellow finish iso painting. Clear cote or some sort of varnish, maybe even polish?
Regards
Chris

course2kid Jeffrey Johnson
Fountain Valley, CA, USA   USA
1979 MG MGB "Lucy (Lucifer)"
I guess I'm a bit fuzzy on what you want to achieve. Passivation processes make the surface of metals "passive" so that they won't corrode (or at least resist corrossion much better than non-passivated metals). I think a clear paint coating might be beneficial to increase the resistance to corrosion, but, it may not even be needed. Also, any paint coating could be subject to it's own degradation (scratching, chipping, UV discoloring, etc.) that might degrade the appearance of the part it's applied to.

Certainly, coating the part with oil, grease, or wax, won't hurt it, might provide some extra oxidation protection. It may not last nearly as long as paint, but, at least it won't chip off, scratch, or discolor.

ML320X5 Avatar
ML320X5 Stan Y
Tulsa, Oklahoma, USA   USA
1973 MG MGB
2002 BMW X5
Passivated is wildly use in aircraft parts. Mostly aluminum sheet metal parts. It is a final finish coating.

A clear coat won't hurt if you want to preserve the finish.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-10-12 06:41 PM by ML320X5.

Floats Avatar
Floats Chris Langeveld
Mossel Bay, Western Province, South Africa   ZAF
Hi Jeffery,
I live at the coast and the plated and passivated finish does not last forever. Slowly but surely they become tarnished, espasially when out of reach and difficult to reach. I was trying to get some sort of advice to protect and to keep them shiny and looking good for longer, without painting them.
Thanks Stan,
I have been given a heads up on the E Type and Pagoda forum advising me to try ACF-50. Fortunately, I have some left from my light aircraft days.
Much appreciated guys.
Regrds
Chris
Cape Town

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ML320X5 Avatar
ML320X5 Stan Y
Tulsa, Oklahoma, USA   USA
1973 MG MGB
2002 BMW X5
ACF 50 is nothing but lubricant. It's a thin film coating. Life-span is not that long compare to good UV clear coat with good prep surface of course.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-10-12 06:42 PM by ML320X5.

Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, Alabama, USA   USA
Chris,
Duplicolor, Rustoleum, etc. sell a clear coat for wheels that works quite well. I’ve used it on parts with patina as well as wire brushed nuts and bolts and it holds up...give it a try.
Rut



1960 Bugeye undergoing restoration, 1275
1970 MGB, Pale Primrose
1967 Triumph TR4a
1966 Triumph TR4a
When I went to school, they asked me what I wanted to be when I grew up. I wrote down 'happy'. They told me I didn't understand the assignment, and I told them they didn't understand life. John Lennon

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MRoadster Avatar
MRoadster Gold Member Jim Wulf
Doylestown, PA, USA   USA
1938 MG TA Tickford "The TA"
1963 Ford Thunderbird "The M Car"
1967 MG MGB MkI "The B"
I've always used plain old WD-40 on newly plated cadmium parts as well as those that have been further treated with a yellow chromate wash. A very light spray a couple of times a year has always been sufficient to prevent corrosion. WD-40, after all, was originally developed to prevent corrosion on the exterior skins of missiles, or so I've read. Clear coat finishes have always looked artificial to me and scratch off too easily. On the other hand, my vehicles are stored in a climate controlled garage year round. A bit different from vehicles that are stored outside or even in damp inside conditions, so your mileage may vary.

Basil Adams Avatar
About 12 miles from Sears Point, CA, USA   USA
If you're made of money, you could do what the show car people do and plate with rhodium! Basil 707.762.0974 basiladams@yahoo.com



Basil C. Adams
1956 MGA Coupe (Show Car)
1957 MGA Roadster (Driver)
1958 MGA Coupe (Racecar)
1959 MGA Coupe (unrestored)
1960 MGA Coupe (unrestored)
1960 MGA Roadster (Driver)
MKIII Elva Courier (E1056)
1967 427 Cobra
1972 Alfa Romeo Montreal
A coupla late MGBs
1960 Austin Healy BN7
More Cars than Brains

B-racer Avatar
B-racer Jeff Schlemmer
Shakopee, Minnesota, USA   USA
1950 Willys Jeep Pickup "Ratrod"
1971 MG MGB
2014 Dodge Charger
The guys who race at the Bonneville salt flats liberally spray the underside of their cars with WD-40, which I assume is available in South Africa? Otherwise go talk to the local guys who commercially fish in steel hull boats. Ask what they use to prevent corrosion. My guess is paint, and lots of it. There are some other high tech marine coatings that may be of interest but if your goal is to maintain the look of yellow zinc, you will need an automotive grade 2-part clear.



jeff@advanceddistributors.com

Floats Avatar
Floats Chris Langeveld
Mossel Bay, Western Province, South Africa   ZAF
TKS Gents,
I'll try WD40, I actually have some in my workshop. Wish I could afford rhodium plating, just had my wife's ring done. But not really practical in my situation.
To tell the truth, I am visiting in the UK at present and bought a brand new brake booster for my E Type. The vacuum pot or chamber is plated and washed in the yellow passivate and looks great. I would like to keep it nice and shinny.
Thanks for all the suggestions, much appreciated.
Regards
Chris



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-10-13 12:29 PM by Floats.


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B-racer Avatar
B-racer Jeff Schlemmer
Shakopee, Minnesota, USA   USA
1950 Willys Jeep Pickup "Ratrod"
1971 MG MGB
2014 Dodge Charger
Paint the cast steel portion too - that'll be a rusty mess in days!



jeff@advanceddistributors.com

Floats Avatar
Floats Chris Langeveld
Mossel Bay, Western Province, South Africa   ZAF
Hi Jeff,
The business end is painted black from the factory.
Cheers
Chris

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