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No water circulating to or thru hose leading to Stromberg carburator

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lynasita Avatar
lynasita Lynne Graham
Albuquerque, NM, USA   USA
1975 MG MGB
1975 MG MGB
Jeffrey and Clay,

Response below in ( )


When you raised the car and it then ran well, did you raise the front, rear, or both ends of the car? (The front was raised to facilitate a container to collect Anti-freeze)
If you raised just the rear, this may have increased fuel pressure to the carb a bit.

Other than that, I'm at a loss why raising or lowering the car would affect its running.

If you raise it back up again, does it run well once more? (Have not tried that yet but will)

Also, when you say that it didn't run once you lowered the car - what exactly did it do?
Would it crank? (yes) Would it fire, (NO) but stall immediately? Would it run, but very poorly? ( NO)

Any such additiinal information might be a useful clue in diagnosing the problem.

Latest experiences: (THE T-Stat is still out)
The next day after no additional actions or attempts to start it, It started on second crank and ran well on the ground for forty minutes , stayed around 1500 for thirty minutes, no noticeable temp increase on gauge ( Have a new temp sensor to install when I drain coolant) At thirty minute mark ,I ran it up to 20-2500 rpm for 15 sec and released, Came down and started to run 950-1050 , sounded rougher but better than a month ago. Turned it off and it sat for 6-8 hrs. Based on some of the info received , I had noticed the three lines on the outer housing of the Auto- Choke were not aligned. The RED line was 1/4 "Clockwise" of the other two. . Car started and idled well but died in reverse 15 feet out of the Garage , would not start and had to be pushed in.

This morning in that same orientation , it started and ran smoothly at around 1200 for thirty minutes , ran it up again to 2000 for 15 sec and it came down to 1000 and kept decreasing and stalled , attempts to restart unsuccessful . Heavy smell of gas present. My next start whenever that occurs (later today) I want to move the red line back to the 1/4"CW position while it is running and note the difference if any and than try to drive it if it does not stall.
Thank you both for sharing your your knowledge. Keep up the good work!

Greatly appreciative, Lynne

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ClayJ Avatar
ClayJ Silver Member Clay Johnston
Mt. Olive, MS, USA   USA
1972 MG MGB
When it dies, what do the spark plug(s) look like? (picture?)

course2kid Jeffrey Johnson
Fountain Valley, CA, USA   USA
1979 MG MGB "Lucy (Lucifer)"
Lynne, when you refer to the red line with regards to autochoke alignment, I'm guessing that refers to the alignment of the heat mass/spring housing to carb body alignment. Check out YouTube for a video by John Twist on calibrating the ZS autochoke. I think it may be in one of hist 3 part series on stromberg carburetors, but, I can't recall for certain.

Looking at the carb/autochoke from the autochoke side, the heat mass/spring rotates the Autochoke spindle assy CCW as it heats up. This pushes the enrichment needle further into the sleeve and reduces the amount of fuel added by the choke (leans the mixture out). If the heat mass alignment mark is rotated CCW of the mark on the carb body, this should make the mixture lean out at a cooler temperature (provided the alignment marks are in the correct position to start with, and, oft times they are not).

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