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Thom's Nub issues!

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L84DNR Luke Clement
Anchorage, Alaska, USA   USA
1969 MG MGB GT "L84DNR"
So it appears the neck on the bottom of the air intake that the drain tube attaches to has rotted away... see pics

I had to cut it in half to get it out of the passenger foot well heater vent and found that the metal part was still lodged inside the drain tube...

My question is what do I do now?

Is there a way to get inside that upper air intake with a step bit so i can drill it out and install a new fitting and then just run a hose out the bottom?

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barry s Avatar
barry s Silver Member Barry Stoll
Alexandria, VA, USA   USA
1972 MG MGB GT
1974 MG MGB
1976 Triumph TR6
1980 MG MGB
You'd be smart to take a close look at the integrity of the fresh air box.

With a bit of effort you can reach 'Tom' from beneath the car. Not sure it would be possible to actually push a new one into place. You'd still have to install the clamp from the cockpit.

L84DNR Luke Clement
Anchorage, Alaska, USA   USA
1969 MG MGB GT "L84DNR"
The nipple on the box is rotted off and stuck in the old hose...

How do you access the fresh air box?

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barry s Avatar
barry s Silver Member Barry Stoll
Alexandria, VA, USA   USA
1972 MG MGB GT
1974 MG MGB
1976 Triumph TR6
1980 MG MGB
Ouch!

Gary E Avatar
Gary E Silver Member Gary Edwards
Kernersville, ,N.C., USA   USA
I know a good urologist that cn fit that..



Gary

MGB567 Avatar
MGB567 Gold Member Barrie Braxton
Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia   AUS
1966 MG MGB MkI "Money Guzzler"
1979 MG MGB GT V8 Conversion "Darkside"
"The nipple on the box is rotted off and stuck in the old hose. How do you access the fresh air box?"

So have you removed the chrome fresh air vent in front of the windscreen? If so or you do you should see a hole where the "nipple" (I prefer spigot) once was. So try to work out what diameter that is and cut a new spigot. Depending on how much rust you have there you'll need to attach that to a flat plate unless there's no rust in which case just give it a trumpet top. Then you drop it in with the underside of the plate glued up after first having cleaned up the flaky rust as best you can and painting with POR15. Once that's "gone off" you can attach another Tom's knob (if you can find one) or you could just attach a hose. If you make your spigot long enough you should be able to access the joining spot a little easier than OEM via the vent door. Others have questioned the need for the plenum. I'm doing this from a logic perspective only - I'm sure I missed a step so others can chime in.



Convertible: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67. Owned since 3/77. 90% original sheet metal. 18GB +40 balanced with almost all new internals. Peter Burgess big valve fast road head. Piper 285. Fidanza FW. Basil's followers and pushrods. TR7clutch. TT exhaust. ARP everywhere. 123 ign. Needham 4synchro c/r box.. Stock rebuilt/replaced suspension. Superpro bushes. New brakes all round including all pipes in SS flex. Interior redone. CAMS approved roll bar and side bars. Lots more. Hybrid of o/e and show/fast road car. Not for sale - it's my toy!

GT: UK car built/sold December '78. Stripped back to bare shell (with extensive bodywork to come). Powered by 'worked' Rover 5 litre V8 (ex TVR Chimera) with efi. T5 box. FC IFS. CCE rear attached to Salisbury axle with Quaife. And a whole lot more to yet to come. Stealth is the word.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2017-08-13 07:22 AM by MGB567.

Ex-Calif Avatar
Ex-Calif Gold Member Dan D
Cincinnati, Ohio, USA   USA
1968 MG MGB GT "Bart - Yellow And Naughty"
1977 MG MGB "Red Betty"
2012 Jeep Liberty "Tank"
2014 Hyundai Accent "Skate"
Without majorly disassembling the car Barrie's fix is as good as any I can think of. Sometimes "engineering" a fix is the path of least resistance. Just use a lot of common sense so that it "looks" right when it's done.



The goal - Reliable summer driver interspersed with mechanical tinkering...
Motto - "Driving fifty in the twisties..."
On Mods - It's your damn car - Do what you want. Haters gonna hate...
On SUVs - Drive your B like a soccer mom is texting her friends about how she wants to kill you...
Red Betty - http://www.mgexp.com/registry/GHN5UH418165
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glbishop Avatar
glbishop Gary Bishop
Spring Hill, FL, USA   USA
Have you considered the car might have gender identity disorder.

arnolda Arnold Adams
Vancouver, Washington, USA   USA
Replacement drain tubes are now being carried by Brown & Gammons.

https://www.ukmgparts.com/product/mgb-midcat-12-submgb15-heater-assembly-valves-cables-controls/mgb-heater-drain-ahc321

Good luck with your spigot repair.

Arnold

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L84DNR Luke Clement
Anchorage, Alaska, USA   USA
1969 MG MGB GT "L84DNR"
So one thing I found after pulling off the chrome great, there's a deflector plate in there that blocks my view of the spigot location. Does this plate come out if so how?

barry s Avatar
barry s Silver Member Barry Stoll
Alexandria, VA, USA   USA
1972 MG MGB GT
1974 MG MGB
1976 Triumph TR6
1980 MG MGB
I've been surprised that this has not been mentioned until now. I didn't since I figured that eventually you would remove the grill and see for yourself. Like everything else about this 'box', it is welded in place.

MGB567 Avatar
MGB567 Gold Member Barrie Braxton
Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia   AUS
1966 MG MGB MkI "Money Guzzler"
1979 MG MGB GT V8 Conversion "Darkside"
Aah so that plate's there on your '69 too as it is on my Mk1 but IIRC not on my GT - you can't see the spigot hole with a torch? AFAIK that plate can only be removed by cutting. In that case all I can suggest is removal of the various stuff in the way underneath including #55 so that will allow you to get at where the spigot was but you'll be repairing it from below. Or can you remove the heater - many say that's a PITA job - so you can gain access to it via the round hole in the firewall? I remember cleaning out that area during restoration; fortunately no where near as rusted as yours and I think I did it via that hole. Getting the heater out for me wasn't difficult as it was not a Smiths (and I never put it back).



Convertible: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67. Owned since 3/77. 90% original sheet metal. 18GB +40 balanced with almost all new internals. Peter Burgess big valve fast road head. Piper 285. Fidanza FW. Basil's followers and pushrods. TR7clutch. TT exhaust. ARP everywhere. 123 ign. Needham 4synchro c/r box.. Stock rebuilt/replaced suspension. Superpro bushes. New brakes all round including all pipes in SS flex. Interior redone. CAMS approved roll bar and side bars. Lots more. Hybrid of o/e and show/fast road car. Not for sale - it's my toy!

GT: UK car built/sold December '78. Stripped back to bare shell (with extensive bodywork to come). Powered by 'worked' Rover 5 litre V8 (ex TVR Chimera) with efi. T5 box. FC IFS. CCE rear attached to Salisbury axle with Quaife. And a whole lot more to yet to come. Stealth is the word.


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Gokart Avatar
Gokart Rob Illingworth
Palmerston North, Manawatu, New Zealand   NZL
Where Tom's knob connects to, the upper green circle, is a problem as discussed. The knob then goes through the hole where the lower green circle is.

Whatever you do the upper air box needs to be drained through both holes. If not any water will collect where the black circle is.

I think this is a problem with perished & non free draining knobs or hoses. as the water leaking out from the hose goes into the lower supposedly sealed air box and if it fills enough it will overflow out the foot well vents and then stay in the bottom of the foot well until it eventually rots that out as well.



Cheers Rob

Gokart Avatar
Gokart Rob Illingworth
Palmerston North, Manawatu, New Zealand   NZL
Sorry I thought the photo had attached.



Cheers Rob


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L84DNR Luke Clement
Anchorage, Alaska, USA   USA
1969 MG MGB GT "L84DNR"
This is an awesome pic! It looks like I should be able to access it if I pull the heater box. Or inside behind the radio console. Thank you!

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