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New Member, 73 MGB Need help getting it running!

Moss Motors
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dickmoritz Avatar
dickmoritz Gold Member Dick Moritz
Philly 'burbs, PA, USA   USA
In your first photo the idle stop screw on the right/rear carb is not abutting its terminus...

Dick

In reply to # 3571148 by Fairtax4me See if you can spot the problem here!



Errabundi Saepe, Semper Certi
(Often wrong, but always certain)

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barry s Avatar
barry s Silver Member Barry Stoll
Alexandria, VA, USA   USA
1972 MG MGB GT
1974 MG MGB
1976 Triumph TR6
1980 MG MGB
Bruce - I have seen round x-section fuel bowl gaskets in rebuid kits. They seem to work but I prefer the square ones. What the OP shows may still be the wrong size. I've no idea how you could warp the cover that badly.

riley1489 Avatar
riley1489 Gold Member Bruce H
Great White North, QC, Canada   CAN
1953 Jaguar XK120
1959 Riley 1.5 "King George"
1973 MG MGB
In reply to # 3571497 by barry s Bruce - I have seen round x-section fuel bowl gaskets in rebuid kits. They seem to work but I prefer the square ones. What the OP shows may still be the wrong size. I've no idea how you could warp the cover that badly.

Barry
I do not doubt you have seen this round type seal, doesn't make it right though. winking smiley There is a some questionable 'kits' on the market that we read about often on this forum.

The fact that the cover has a flat 'square' groove as well the carburetor body has a flat 'square' groove it makes sense without doubt to install a 'square' seal.

I suspect a too thick 'O' ring seal and a tad too much 'enthusiasm' with a screw driver caused the cover to distort as shown. I agree this float chamber cover distortion is extreme, and the correct seal would prevent this from happening. grinning smiley

B



Check your ego Amigo!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-08-12 11:18 AM by riley1489.

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BH_HIF_float chamber cover.JPG

BH_HIF_float chamber.JPG    29.7 KB
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Fairtax4me Scott Mahanes
The Big City, Virginia, USA   USA
Thanks guys! The rebuild kit is an original SU kit from moss. The old o-rings were tossed and new proper square cut o-rings installed.

Don't know what was eating away at the needles. It may be hard to see in the pic but there is definite pitting/deterioration of the metal.

Fairtax4me Scott Mahanes
The Big City, Virginia, USA   USA
In reply to # 3571491 by dickmoritz In your first photo the idle stop screw on the right/rear carb is not abutting its terminus...

Dick

In reply to # 3571148 by Fairtax4me See if you can spot the problem here!

Yep, the screws were so far out of adjustment the throttle plate on the left carb was closing all the way against the bore and had started to wear a groove in the bore. The right carb the plate was propped open almost 1/16".
I readjusted both to have a similar gap sufficient to have around 1200 rpm idle speed just as a temporary setting to get it running.

Further adjustments will happen after I get the fuel pump working, get the stale gas out of the tank, possibly replace the fuel supply lines, get the valve lash checked/adjusted, get the radiator leak fixed... Lots to do!

riley1489 Avatar
riley1489 Gold Member Bruce H
Great White North, QC, Canada   CAN
1953 Jaguar XK120
1959 Riley 1.5 "King George"
1973 MG MGB
In reply to # 3571568 by Fairtax4me the screws were so far out of adjustment the throttle plate on the left carb was closing all the way against the bore and had started to wear a groove in the bore.

This "groove in the bore" as you describe will haunt you as you try to tune these carburetors further on down the road.
To mitigate this you might consider to renew the throttle plates, preferably with solid ones.

Good luck

B



Check your ego Amigo!

JonW5179 Avatar
JonW5179 Jon Westergaard
Centreville, Virginia, USA   USA
1979 MG MGB "*"
Scott,

Since you're in Fairfax, you might also want to check in with British Standard Motors, nee Motorhead, on Old Lee Highway, britishstandardmotors.com. They've been very helpful in keeping my '79 going (and it's running GREAT these days). They have, or can find, parts, and can work with you about what you can do, what they can do, and so on.

Also, I found a couple of years ago that keeping the emissions stuff working was a huge hassle, and it sounds like you've got some challenges there with blocked fittings, etc. Although my car and the one you're working on are too old to require emissions inspections anymore, the state safety inspection requires that all of the emissions parts need to be in place and working, even if the car isn't even required to be tested for emissions. I registered mine as "vintage" a while back, and the owner of this car might want to do that also. Cars registered as vintage do not require any inspections, and get a permanent "vintage" plate. There are some limitations; more details are available at www.dmv.virginia.gov.

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Fairtax4me Scott Mahanes
The Big City, Virginia, USA   USA
Thanks, I actually live in Charlottesville. Which if you've followed the news today... we've had one for the books. All of the calamity taking place less than 3 miles from where I live.

Yes, the car is registered with antique plates so I'm not worried about emissions equipment. And we don't have emissions testing here, not that anybody around here would notice the missing parts.

The throttle bore groove wasn't much more than a fine edge, just barely enough to feel. I smoothed it down with some 400 grit sand paper while I had the carb apart.

spikemichael Avatar
spikemichael Platinum Member Michael Caputo
Ocean Shores, WA, USA   USA
1973 MG MGB "Freebie"
1973 MG MGB
1974 MG MGB "Spike"
1979 MG MGB "MegaBeanie"    & more
pm me your email and I will send you manuals and stuff.



Michael J. Caputo
'79 RBB and '73 CBB owner with extensive experience in 12v Audio System design and installation.
Vendor of Regalia and Promotional Products. Forum Member with a warped sense of humor.


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Fairtax4me Scott Mahanes
The Big City, Virginia, USA   USA
It's like Chernobyl in there...
Looks like it was left half full of ethanol gas.
I'll be doing a thorough cleaning and reseal with some POR-15. Tank is an aftermarket replacement but if I get it cleaned up and sealed properly this will never happen again. I'll probably need to replace the level sender, and I'll replace the lines running from the tank to pump, and pump to the carbs. Already have some 1/4" copper nickel line here which should make that part easy.


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riley1489 Avatar
riley1489 Gold Member Bruce H
Great White North, QC, Canada   CAN
1953 Jaguar XK120
1959 Riley 1.5 "King George"
1973 MG MGB
In reply to # 3572899 by Fairtax4me I'll replace the lines running from the tank to pump, and pump to the carbs. Already have some 1/4" copper nickel line here which should make that part easy.


Scott,
Perhaps not so easy. winking smiley The 1/4" line you have will not work out for you.
The fuel line is/should be 5/16" to match/marry up to the banjo fittings at the fuel pump and the union & clips under the bonnet. The under body rubber keepers as well will not secure the smaller diameter line well.
The fuel line reduces to 1/4" at the carburetors inlet.

B



Check your ego Amigo!


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BH_fuel line2.JPG    49.9 KB
BH_fuel line2.JPG

barry s Avatar
barry s Silver Member Barry Stoll
Alexandria, VA, USA   USA
1972 MG MGB GT
1974 MG MGB
1976 Triumph TR6
1980 MG MGB
Before attempting to use a sealer inside the fuel tank, you might do some research. I've heard of more failures than successes.

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