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Moss CSI Distributor

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tvrgeek Avatar
tvrgeek Silver Member Scott S
Bowie, Maryland, USA   USA
1965 MG MGB
Rob, why do you insist on blatant lies and my "non running car", which runs quite well. We are freaking sick of your crap You have never seen my car. You know nothing about it. I OWNED both systems, CB and 123, as well as numerous cars with LUCAS distributors. Sorry if you are not smart enough to set one up for your customers. It is not that hard. I know, I did it successfully every time. Instead of just denigrating something you clearly do not understand, you prefer to attack the direct experience and the person directly of those who have had the product. That is not helpful for anyone, the PO, the on lookers, and sure as heck does not help you as you refuse to learn anything new. Believe it or not, most of the forum is smart enough to understand experience and not just grovel at your feet.



Cogito ergo sum periculoso

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tvrgeek Avatar
tvrgeek Silver Member Scott S
Bowie, Maryland, USA   USA
1965 MG MGB
"Programable" is a matter of semantics. The Lucas is a mechanical computer programed with springs and weights. RPM is the input, the algorithm is the result of springs and weights.

The CSI and the standard 123 are switch selectable curves. This means factory programed, not user defined. Still, they are programed.

My warnings are to look at the curves and decide which one is right for your car. Several owners have suggested the generic Lucas 123, not the MGB specific, actually has better switch settings for the MG. If you were to pick the 74 US advance curve, you would probably be very unhappy with the results.



Cogito ergo sum periculoso

B-racer Avatar
B-racer Jeff Schlemmer
Shakopee, Minnesota, USA   USA
1950 Willys Jeep Pickup "Ratrod"
1971 MG MGB
2014 Dodge Charger
In reply to # 3541748 by pinkyponk Do you think they're actually moving a plate with the electronics on it like a mechanical distributor? As near as I can see from googling it, it's not even really programmable. You just get to choose from 16 generic curves. You can program some versions of the 123 distributor I think... which seems very similar. I'd shop pretty carefully at this price point... and try to get the most functionality per dollar.

Adrian

A vacuum pod like they attached to the distributor does one thing: an arm pulls when vacuum is applied. That would indicate a physical motion is being made so yes, the plate turns to alter the electronic package position versus the shaft position. Otherwise there would be no need to add the vacuum advance unit. This appears to be a cheaper (stock looking) version of the 123, but that would be a gross assumption since I haven't had one here to disassemble and test it. At least the cap and rotor are readily available.

BTW, the red rotor is NOT one of mine- its the same knock-off that other people sell. 100% different tooling being used. The parting line in the mould is lower and it will not say "AD" underneath.



jeff@advanceddistributors.com

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pinkyponk Avatar
pinkyponk Gold Member Adrian Page
Berwick, Nova Scotia, Canada   CAN
What a weird way to build an electronic distributor. Not programmable and uses mechanical vac advance.

On the rotor buttons: I hate when people seal my stuff! I fear it won't be long before they add your "AD" logo to their copies. No concept of copyright. You'll have to change to green maybe? People suck sometimes.

Adrian



Home built Eaton M62 Supercharger with 9psi boost, "stock" high ratio rocker arms, 8:1 compression, Piper 270 cam, ported head, matched manifolds, CB Performance computerized ignition.

Donthuis Avatar
Donthuis Don van Riet
Rijswijk, ZH, Netherlands   NLD
It is a pity this subject invariably ends in "Web shouting".... sad smiley

Let each have its own I would say (unsubscribed once more from this subject)

Laserman Avatar
Laserman L. Christiansen
Brabrand, DK, Denmark   DNK
1961 MG MGA
Just for info...

I've been running the CSI with vaccum unit for two years now in my A 1600MkII.
Never had a single miss at all.
Among the 16 selectable curves you find the one that simulates the 40897 dist.
This destributor is claimed by Mr. John Twist to be the best distributor ever build for the MGB.
This curve suits my 1622 engine very well.
There does not seem to be any moving parts in the vaccum unit, certenly no moving plate.
Just to mention my experince vith the CSI.

Lars

Ex-Calif Avatar
Ex-Calif Gold Member Dan D
Cincinnati, Ohio, USA   USA
1968 MG MGB GT "Bart - Yellow And Naughty"
1977 MG MGB "Red Betty"
2012 Jeep Liberty "Tank"
2014 Hyundai Accent "Skate"
Lars dont' kno wif thi is an English translation / sleight of grammar but the bolded statement below could indicate one of two things

"John Twist thinks the 40897 is the best distributor ever built..."

or

"This distributor simulates the 40897. This distributor (THE CSI ONE- Which is the subject of the topic) is the best distributor ever built..."

I think you mean the former statement, not the later.

I doubt JT is endorsing the CSI dizzy as the best built ever (but I could be wrong...)

In reply to # 3553728 by Laserman Just for info...

Among the 16 selectable curves you find the one that simulates the 40897 dist.

This destributor is claimed by Mr. John Twist to be the best distributor ever build for the MGB.


This curve suits my 1622 engine very well.

There does not seem to be any moving parts in the vaccum unit, certenly no moving plate.
Just to mention my experince vith the CSI.

Lars



The goal - Reliable summer driver interspersed with mechanical tinkering...
Motto - "Driving fifty in the twisties..."
On Mods - It's your damn car - Do what you want. Haters gonna hate...
On SUVs - Drive your B like a soccer mom is texting her friends about how she wants to kill you...
Red Betty - http://www.mgexp.com/registry/GHN5UH418165
Bart - http://www.mgexp.com/registry/GHD4U146898G

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Laserman Avatar
Laserman L. Christiansen
Brabrand, DK, Denmark   DNK
1961 MG MGA
Sorry about the confusion Danconfused smiley

What I ment was that JT in one of his Youtube events states that the Lucas 40897 distributor was the best dizzy ever made for the MGB.
The CSI is capable of emulating the curve built into the Lucas 40897.

Never heard JT mention the CSI smileys with beer

Lars



1961 MGA 1600 Mkll

Fred Winterburn Avatar
Ripley, Ontario, Canada   CAN
You'd be surprised at the number of misfires (defined as no combustion or partial combustion events) that occur with the owner completely unaware because the engine appears to run smoothly. You will have more of these events with a weak ignition system, and I include points/condenser(kettering), and pertronix 1 in that group. You can't feel it, but if it is caused by the ignition, it will show up on a scope. Fred
In reply to # 3541759 by ohlord You assume a lot Scotty, all wrong.
I've worked with , ran,installed them and more.
Never bought them just helped people that did.
Most have since removed

Unlike you and your non running first MGB
They all ran after a fashion eye popping smiley

Good luck with your tuning issues and multitude of misfires as they continue on into your 3rd yearthumbs up

In reply to # 3541349 by tvrgeek thumbs up on what Don said. The only issue I have is to look carefully at the advance curve and vacuum curve. For this reason I prefer the programmable 123-tune. The 123 will safely drive a 1.5 Ohm coil, so you get much stronger ignition. This means fewer miss-fires, easier cold starting etc. I do not know about the CSI current capability. The 123 switch based curves mimic the various stock curves, some are good, some are not. Check the CSI. With the tune, I can run higher idle advance, delay vacuum to over 1000 so ported vs manifold is not as big a difference, and peak maximum advance at max-peak-torque which is now pretty much the accepted preferred performance choice. None of the stock MG curves followed this. If your engine is non-stock, then the tune version is that much more flexible over the switched based one.

I liked my CB Black box too. The only concern I had was getting the phasing dead on with a locked distributor. I ran an Acuspark with mine. Comparing the two, I prefer the 123-tune. 123 or CSI are more plug and play. I like the built in timer in the 123 as I used it to time RPM to RPM acceleration to do somewhat objective on-road tuning. Not as good as an expert on a dyno, but a lot better than hearsay, forum "experts" or just seat of the pants. I was able to capture the data stream from the CB by Wireshark sniffing, add a clock from the PC and do RPM to RPM times. Much harder than the 123! ( I tuned using 2000 to 3500 RPM times). My result for my 65 has idle of 18 @ 850, maximum of 32 @ 3000, with 8 degrees of vac. I derived this on my 65 with the CB. It worked great in the 74 with the 123 and now is what I have with the 123 in the 65. I found the idle dip trick to work really slick, but only after it was fully warmed up. It made start and drive away warm up a bit less smooth. Maybe if any of my engines had a more perfect rebuild it would be more stable. I need to learn more about how best to bring in the vac.

As much as I prefer electronic ignitions, the advance curve is the most important parameter. A correctly curved points job form Jeff (expert on a dyno) will make you happier than the wrong curve in the best electronics. Of course, the best electronics with the best curve will still be superior.

For our resident "my way is the only way" expert who has not used any of these three products, better does not make stock bad, so save it.
.



'Anyone who likes liver, can't taste it'
'If you want to repair car electrical systems successfully, learn Ohm's Law'.

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