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Is my ride height correct?

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chris Avatar
chris Platinum Member Chris Roop
Pendleton, OR, USA   USA
In reply to # 3535080 by Peter-Sherman The offset is in the body. Factory Jig .The body slews to the starboard side about half an inch so the axle appears shifted to the left. If you loosen up your U bolts and then retighten with leverage you can get a few mm. Hardly worth it but if you are just touching that might be just what you want. However you should not be touching. You will need new shackle bushes whatever you do. Because it is the shackle (which moves) you can use heavy duty ''race track'' or stiff bushes there. Use ''road going'' grade elsewhere unless you like a harsh ride. These are easy to swap over so that would make a good starting point. The most likely culprit unless you have not enough offset in your alloy wheels. What is your offset? Should be about an inch. It will be on the rim eg some variation on +25mm, 25mm pos etc

What a great hunting rig! Any idea what the chassis is??


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willie3051 Avatar
willie3051 William Leong
Brooklyn, NY, USA   USA
FWIW, it's not really possible to re-center the rear axle by loosening the u-bolts and attempting to move the axle. There are other fixings in place to prevent any appreciable movement, even a millimeter or two.

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Peter-Sherman Avatar
Peter-Sherman Peter Sherman
Melbourne, Australia   AUS
In reply to # 3535131 by chris
In reply to # 3535080 by Peter-Sherman The offset is in the body. Factory Jig .The body slews to the starboard side about half an inch so the axle appears shifted to the left. If you loosen up your U bolts and then retighten with leverage you can get a few mm. Hardly worth it but if you are just touching that might be just what you want. However you should not be touching. You will need new shackle bushes whatever you do. Because it is the shackle (which moves) you can use heavy duty ''race track'' or stiff bushes there. Use ''road going'' grade elsewhere unless you like a harsh ride. These are easy to swap over so that would make a good starting point. The most likely culprit unless you have not enough offset in your alloy wheels. What is your offset? Should be about an inch. It will be on the rim eg some variation on +25mm, 25mm pos etc

What a great hunting rig! Any idea what the chassis is??

A random image off the net. There are a few of them around. Had to have been shortened then an MGB body lightly attached.
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=mgb+4wd&tbm=isch&imgil=xY189mCVHDHE3M%253A%253BE-5ogh2KiQju7M%253Bhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.pinterest.com%25252Fpin%25252F385620786819743029%25252F&source=iu&pf=m&fir=xY189mCVHDHE3M%253A%252CE-5ogh2KiQju7M%252C_&usg=__6vkb4P30TG9ejCCd4UysxFHE3to%3D&biw=1280&bih=678&ved=0ahUKEwi2gaKT2MjUAhWMu7wKHaD2DkcQyjcIOQ&ei=oR9HWfasKIz38gWg7bu4BA#imgrc=Tf2mfO1Hf7l4fM:


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J Baz Avatar
J Baz Silver Member Jerard Basmagy
Middletown, New Jersey, USA   USA
You have two choices to stop the rubbing either get properly sized tires or trim the wheel well. I much prefer going with factory sized tires.
But the other thing I can think of is do you know if the car was ever hit in the rear. If so your car may need to be racked to get it straight.

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Peter-Sherman Avatar
Peter-Sherman Peter Sherman
Melbourne, Australia   AUS
In reply to # 3535140 by willie3051 FWIW, it's not really possible to re-center the rear axle by loosening the u-bolts and attempting to move the axle. There are other fixings in place to prevent any appreciable movement, even a millimeter or two.

The spring leaf bolts have just a little movement in the perch holes, but like I said, not much and the front rear wheels are aligned, it's the body. You don't want the car crabbing. That british automotive link I gave has some interesting articles in there. Swapping over springs etc. Mostly it doesn't work but you might get lucky.
Robert, your rear springs are well within spec'. But you might just want to have the car higher, some people do. The chief complain about bad rear springs is that they are too high so if you do buy yourself a new set hang on to the old just in case you end up 3'' higher or something ridiculous. Then you could try swapping leaves about and re-stacking. Generally people don't want the rear springs to be too hard. The idea is that the rear axle is free to move and maintain contact with the road. A number of people have tried longer, or adjustable spring shackles so as to maintain the same spring rating.

saanich2006 Avatar
saanich2006 Robert Browning
Atlanta, Georgia, USA   USA
In reply to # 3535160 by Peter-Sherman
In reply to # 3535140 by willie3051 FWIW, it's not really possible to re-center the rear axle by loosening the u-bolts and attempting to move the axle. There are other fixings in place to prevent any appreciable movement, even a millimeter or two.

The spring leaf bolts have just a little movement in the perch holes, but like I said, not much and the front rear wheels are aligned, it's the body. You don't want the car crabbing. That british automotive link I gave has some interesting articles in there. Swapping over springs etc. Mostly it doesn't work but you might get lucky.
Robert, your rear springs are well within spec'. But you might just want to have the car higher, some people do. The chief complain about bad rear springs is that they are too high so if you do buy yourself a new set hang on to the old just in case you end up 3'' higher or something ridiculous. Then you could try swapping leaves about and re-stacking. Generally people don't want the rear springs to be too hard. The idea is that the rear axle is free to move and maintain contact with the road. A number of people have tried longer, or adjustable spring shackles so as to maintain the same spring rating.



I have always noticed the car sits a little low in rear. It is just about an inch low. The rubbing I get is only when two people are in the car and I hit a big bump and it is only slight rubbing. You cannot even see it on the tires. I just wish there was an easy way to raise the rear a little
I keep reading to go with the GT springs. Other people say no
Now someone said it is the shackle and do put heavy duty or off road shackles?
I am just not sure what to do or which direction to take.
Part of me thinks I would not mind if the rear was a little high as it will probably settle over time
The Moss springs I have now do not have many miles on them but they are over ten years old. You really feel they should have lasted longer. However with these springs, even when new I have still had some tire rub on the left rear if it bottomed out.



"He had delusions of adequacy."

Law of Mechanical Repair - After your hands become coated with grease, your nose will begin to itch and you'll have to pee.



pinkyponk Avatar
pinkyponk Gold Member Adrian Page
Berwick, Nova Scotia, Canada   CAN
In reply to # 3534463 by saanich2006
In reply to # 3534460 by HiPowerShooter Your car should not be nose high if unloaded...If so you're in need of new rear springs.

How long should springs last???? Like I said, mine are about ten years old and only have about 5,000 miles on them.

Mine are 44 years old and have 115,000 miles on them. I don't know anything about this chrome strip to wheel stuff. I measure from rocker panel to ground. Mine is pretty much the same front and back.

Adrian



Home built Eaton M62 Supercharger with 9psi boost, "stock" high ratio rocker arms, 8:1 compression, Piper 270 cam, ported head, matched manifolds, CB Performance computerized ignition.

Peter-Sherman Avatar
Peter-Sherman Peter Sherman
Melbourne, Australia   AUS
In reply to # 3535170 by saanich2006
In reply to # 3535160 by Peter-Sherman
In reply to # 3535140 by willie3051 FWIW, it's not really possible to re-center the rear axle by loosening the u-bolts and attempting to move the axle. There are other fixings in place to prevent any appreciable movement, even a millimeter or two.

The spring leaf bolts have just a little movement in the perch holes, but like I said, not much and the front rear wheels are aligned, it's the body. You don't want the car crabbing. That british automotive link I gave has some interesting articles in there. Swapping over springs etc. Mostly it doesn't work but you might get lucky.
Robert, your rear springs are well within spec'. But you might just want to have the car higher, some people do. The chief complain about bad rear springs is that they are too high so if you do buy yourself a new set hang on to the old just in case you end up 3'' higher or something ridiculous. Then you could try swapping leaves about and re-stacking. Generally people don't want the rear springs to be too hard. The idea is that the rear axle is free to move and maintain contact with the road. A number of people have tried longer, or adjustable spring shackles so as to maintain the same spring rating.







I have always noticed the car sits a little low in rear. It is just about an inch low. The rubbing I get is only when two people are in the car and I hit a big bump and it is only slight rubbing. You cannot even see it on the tires. I just wish there was an easy way to raise the rear a little
I keep reading to go with the GT springs. Other people say no
Now someone said it is the shackle and do put heavy duty or off road shackles?
I am just not sure what to do or which direction to take.
Part of me thinks I would not mind if the rear was a little high as it will probably settle over time
The Moss springs I have now do not have many miles on them but they are over ten years old. You really feel they should have lasted longer. However with these springs, even when new I have still had some tire rub on the left rear if it bottomed out.

If it's always been low in the rear at a constant near ideal 14'' then they sound like pretty good springs to me. More than one person on this site will happily swap you I think. Your front springs are spot on for your year say moss ( http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=110673 ). So whether you raise the back ( http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=135841 ) or lower the front, or do nothing is your whim. You are within spec. Do note that moss give three chrome bumper Std heights for the front and only one 'original spec' ride height for the back (along with other amazing qualities). Which one will you get for the back? If it was me and the angle bugged me I'd lower the front.
It is very odd that the rear rubs on big bumps but not on corners. If it is too close to the guard it would. How are your rear shockers? checked the oil level?
World wide shocks madison are the way to go if you need new ones.

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riley1489 Avatar
riley1489 Gold Member Bruce Hopgood
Great White North, QC, Canada   CAN
1953 Jaguar XK120
1959 Riley 1.5 "King George"
1973 MG MGB
In reply to # 3535170 by saanich2006 I have still had some tire rub on the left rear if it bottomed out.

again centering the axle, when you do it sounds like this will not cure 100% tire rub. In your OP you mention RH tire rub recent post you mention LH tire rub. confused smiley

Difficult to know what actually is the real issue, tire size? wheel width? axle off center? or saggy springs.

Good luck

B



Check your ego Amigo!

saanich2006 Avatar
saanich2006 Robert Browning
Atlanta, Georgia, USA   USA
In reply to # 3535423 by riley1489
In reply to # 3535170 by saanich2006 I have still had some tire rub on the left rear if it bottomed out.

again centering the axle, when you do it sounds like this will not cure 100% tire rub. In your OP you mention RH tire rub recent post you mention LH tire rub. confused smiley

Difficult to know what actually is the real issue, tire size? wheel width? axle off center? or saggy springs.

Good luck

B

To clarify, it is the left rear tire (drivers side) that will rub "sometimes", but is not the rubbing which is the big issue, but the fact the car sits lower in the rear

I think I have decided to go ahead with new springs. Now whether to go with the GT springs or stay with the roaster springs is the current questions.

Also, in Post #29 he mentioned about heavy duty shackles? Can someone please enlighten me more about whether this is really necessary?

Also, is Moss the best place to buy the springs?



"He had delusions of adequacy."

Law of Mechanical Repair - After your hands become coated with grease, your nose will begin to itch and you'll have to pee.



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ClayJ Avatar
ClayJ Silver Member Clay Johnston
Mt. Olive, MS, USA   USA
1972 MG MGB
Hi Robert,
Looks like some confusion on the ride height measurement. The common measurement is from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the chrome strip. That would put the chrome strip about level with the ground.

I can't tell if it's a photo perspective issue but the front of your picture does look high, the rear looks ok. I'm wonder if a PO has swapped some front-end parts or something from a later car or replaced the front springs with something non-spec Lots of club members in your area that might have a set of old front springs for checking or you could just buy a set of springs. Unless your a real hotshoe, I would recommend the stock spring.

As for rubbing, it is usually the LR that rubs due to axle (or body) offset as noted in many post above. I've seen 185/70/14 rub on some cars, work fine on others. I run a 185/65/14, still very close to the stock diameter but slightly narrower.

Peter-Sherman Avatar
Peter-Sherman Peter Sherman
Melbourne, Australia   AUS
These should get it done for you. You don't want to get too exotic. Especially if you are talking about getting taller springs at the back. Spot of grease to stop any squeaking.
http://www.superpro.com.au/find/superpro-suspension-parts-and-poly-bushings-for-mg-mgb-1966-1980-/cid-999500048

read up on these articles
http://www.mgbmga.com/
Doug's retired now but he brought a scientific approach to things and there is very little BS AKA 'marketing'

Donthuis Avatar
Donthuis Don van Riet
Rijswijk, ZH, Netherlands   NLD
Your 1972 like mine was fitted with AHH springs originally, the OP 1973 sure has the longer BHH springs right from the start
So for you it may seem too high, while BL intended it this way...


In reply to # 3535517 by ClayJ Hi Robert,
Looks like some confusion on the ride height measurement. The common measurement is from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the chrome strip. That would put the chrome strip about level with the ground.

I can't tell if it's a photo perspective issue but the front of your picture does look high, the rear looks ok. I'm wonder if a PO has swapped some front-end parts or something from a later car or replaced the front springs with something non-spec Lots of club members in your area that might have a set of old front springs for checking or you could just buy a set of springs. Unless your a real hotshoe, I would recommend the stock spring.

As for rubbing, it is usually the LR that rubs due to axle (or body) offset as noted in many post above. I've seen 185/70/14 rub on some cars, work fine on others. I run a 185/65/14, still very close to the stock diameter but slightly narrower.

chris Avatar
chris Platinum Member Chris Roop
Pendleton, OR, USA   USA
You want Heritage springs whether from Moss or elsewhere. I know that Moss has them. When the first came out, I made a deal with people and ordered enough that they came on a pallet instead of UPS. Not doing that again! It tears your back up.


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HiPowerShooter Avatar
HiPowerShooter Gold Member James Booker
Oshkosh, Wisconsin, USA   USA
1973 MG MGB
It makes no difference whether you measure from the floor or the center of the wheel to the chrome strip. Both the floor and the axle are the "0" point and what will vary is the body rake/heel from that point relative to either. So long as the measurements are equal on both sides/ends it's "square". With the new 6 leaf springs my car is slightly nose low(3/4" or so) when unloaded however after the tank is filled, spare installed it is dead level.



"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions"--Alvin "Tex" Johnston...Boeing test pilot.

73 MGB. Tires: Round, black, hold air. Oil: Sometimes old, sometimes new...always slippery. Oil filter: Yellow, usually full of oil. Carbs: 2 SU HIF. Distributor: Yes. Headlights: Not that bright but bright enough. A bunch of other stuff most cars have but not really important enough to itemize. Oh, wait...it has a cool sounding exhaust with stickers on the chrome tips. Really slays the ladies...

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