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David67MGBGT Avatar
David67MGBGT David N
Harpers Ferry, West Virginia, USA   USA
Screen shots of the Mobil spec sheet.
ALL Mobil 1 oils has zinc in it...

https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide.pdf



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2017-06-19 12:11 PM by David67MGBGT.

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GlennMGB Avatar
GlennMGB Glenn G
Fort Worth, Texas, USA   USA
1967 MG MGB GT "Rose"
Thanks, David! Interesting that the more viscous formulas are the ones that contain more zinc and phosphorus. I suppose that's because they are aimed at older, flat-tappet engines.

coffeemung9920 Avatar
coffeemung9920 Gold Member James C
Inman, SC, USA   USA
1971 MG MGB "Miss Take"
1972 MG MGB "Bee 44"
1999 Ford F-150 Pickup 4WD
2010 Mini Cooper    & more
Good stuff: Schaeffer 707 synthetic racing oil, 20/50. Lots of moly, good for flat tappets. Of course, most of us don't really need racing oil.

I believe I will just go ahead and switch to Mobil 1.



The problem with political jokes is that they too often get elected.

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ohlord Avatar
ohlord Gold Member Rob C
North of Seattle, N.W., USA   USA
1957 Land Rover Series I "EYEYIYI"
1971 MG MGB
1971 MG MGB "Bedouin 2"
Any 20W50 is good for flat tappet cam in an mgb
It's how much money you want to waste putting in synthetic and wasting it every 3000miles



"I'm a long way gone down this wild road I'm on
It's gonna take me where I'm bound
It's a long way around"



"These are the days that must happen to you"

RD2 Radar/ Electronic Warfare Technician
Vietnam 1969-1972

RichardTS Avatar
RichardTS Richard Smith
Covington, Louisiana, USA   USA
1973 MG MGB "The MG"
I contacted Castrol direct and they told me a) don't use GTX in a flat tappet engine any more and b) to use Castrol Edge 5w-50. Said it has all the lubricity needed for flat tappet engines.

Your comment may make my decision easier.

In reply to # 3533006 by fast-MG.com I use and like the Castrol synthetic 5W-50. Much quicker oiling on every cold start. In spite of what RobC thinks.smoking smiley

ohlord Avatar
ohlord Gold Member Rob C
North of Seattle, N.W., USA   USA
1957 Land Rover Series I "EYEYIYI"
1971 MG MGB
1971 MG MGB "Bedouin 2"
I contacted them also
Said 20w50 was spec
Valvoline also said 20w50 conventional was fine
If they suggest $7 A qt synthetic its called upselling. Nothing more



"I'm a long way gone down this wild road I'm on
It's gonna take me where I'm bound
It's a long way around"



"These are the days that must happen to you"

RD2 Radar/ Electronic Warfare Technician
Vietnam 1969-1972

coffeemung9920 Avatar
coffeemung9920 Gold Member James C
Inman, SC, USA   USA
1971 MG MGB "Miss Take"
1972 MG MGB "Bee 44"
1999 Ford F-150 Pickup 4WD
2010 Mini Cooper    & more
I will be going with Mobil 1. It has to do with the molybdenum in a synthetic. Moly is a metal that actually adheres to the moving surfaces in our engines and prevents wear and tear. That is why you need change only every 10,000 miles. I know this will invite a hailstorm of protest saying you shouldn't do that, but I'm doing it anyway. I am sold on synthetic because of the moly. Heck, it goes in our Mercedes, Mini, 03 Altima, 99 Ford pickup, lawn mower, tiller, and pressure washer. Anything that isn't 2 cycle. Can't help but believe it will work well in my toy LBC. No waste of money, but actually saves in the long run.

There is no argument that just about any oil will work to lubricate. In our cars, 20/50. Any of it. I just think it is a good idea not to ignore chemical technology. I believe in Seafoam too, and have seen great results. It isn't magic, just modern technology.



The problem with political jokes is that they too often get elected.

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RichardTS Avatar
RichardTS Richard Smith
Covington, Louisiana, USA   USA
1973 MG MGB "The MG"
So, if you can go 6-7k miles on a synthetic vs 3k on a conventional it's worth it to stay conventional? Let's see if I go 6k mikes on $7 per quart that's about $1.16 per 1K miles. At 3K miles for $4.50 per quart that's about $1.50 per 1K.

Now if you subscribe to the "Anybody who thinks they can go more than 3K on an oil change is a fool" crowd, that crowd is upselling you.

In reply to # 3536142 by ohlord I contacted them also
Said 20w50 was spec
Valvoline also said 20w50 conventional was fine
If they suggest $7 A qt synthetic its called upselling. Nothing more

ohlord Avatar
ohlord Gold Member Rob C
North of Seattle, N.W., USA   USA
1957 Land Rover Series I "EYEYIYI"
1971 MG MGB
1971 MG MGB "Bedouin 2"
If you think an mgb running carbs,distributor, blowing can run extended intervals
So be it
You either don't drive more than a few thousand miles a year
Or really like to punish your engine and desire a rebuild.
I'm not upset
Your money

I already subscribe to the theory a Fool is born every minuteeye rolling smiley

Read what the synthetic oil supplier says about oil change intervals in a non extended oil interval engine.

(FOLLOW THE MANUAl)
Simple things elude some people thumbs up



"I'm a long way gone down this wild road I'm on
It's gonna take me where I'm bound
It's a long way around"



"These are the days that must happen to you"

RD2 Radar/ Electronic Warfare Technician
Vietnam 1969-1972



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-06-20 09:29 AM by ohlord.

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RichardTS Avatar
RichardTS Richard Smith
Covington, Louisiana, USA   USA
1973 MG MGB "The MG"
Funny that. I subscribe to the same theory.

Have you ever heard of oil sampling?

In reply to # 3536270 by ohlord If you think an mgb running carbs,distributor, blowing can run extended intervals
So be it
You either don't drive more than a few thousand miles a year
Or really like to punish your engine and desire a rebuild.
I'm not upset
Your money

I already subscribe to the theory a Fool is born every minuteeye rolling smiley

Read what the synthetic oil supplier says about oil change intervals in a non extended oil interval engine.

(FOLLOW THE MANUAl)
Simple things elude some people thumbs up

i AMS 4u Avatar
i AMS 4u alfred dawes
Grimesland, North Carolina, USA   USA
1968 MG MGB GT "My First MGB-GT"
1969 MG MGB GT "My Second GT"
1969 MG MGC
1970 MG MGB GT "My Fourth MGB-GT"    & more
This is no doubt a complicated and opinionated subject. Frankly, it is the same old stuff rehashed everytime. So, please do not take this statement wrong.
NaySayers will be Naysayers. So, if someone wants to use conventional oil technology that is the beauty of freedom of choice and speech, that is okay.
For the human race "Change is the Hardest thing to do".
Frequent oil change is what the Petro companies want. Sell more oil. Older oil technology, older cars also create the need. Oil formulation is forever changing.
Synthetics are fine for new and old, 2 & 4 cycle engines and driveline components. One Benefit being Less friction = Less heat = Better Performance all around.

Using Synthetic oil is not wasting your money. The Benefits outweigh the Costs many times.

I have no problem using $15.00 a quart oil in my MG. I am not being wasteful of my Hard earned $$'s for doing it.
I don't have the space/time to give you my reasons for what I do, but, I guarantee you, I know why I am doing it. Research and School of Hard Knocks.

There is no doubt tons of science, and "what works" information out there.
The article about all the different oils was a good start for comparison.

Carburetors, Especially manual chokes vs Electric chokes vs Feedback Controlled Carbs, no doubt dilutes oils quicker. So, depending on the formulation of the one oil versus another will/can give, an oil the ability to go longer drain intervals (TBN = Total Base Number is just one factor in the formulation).

Filtration is another parameter, (OH no, Don't open that Pandora's box) that helps combat wear, longevity etc.

Formulation of the oil components has more to do with Quality, than how much of this or that one particular anti-wear additive (Zinc. Phosphorus etc.) is contained in the said oil.

I noticed there has not been any reference to Rust protection of our said "MG prizes" while sitting up.
I love my MG's, but I got to admit, My driver sits more than it gets driven. For me Rust protection is of greater value than anything. This process takes place with new or old oils.

I propose, "Oil Analysis as a great start for data collection".

Maybe the Forum should start Analyzing all the different oils we use.
It would no doubt be a large around the world collection of information. Maybe the biggest data collection to date?

This would be a great undertaking with many variables, but to show how your choice is holding up to your driving habits, car modifications, and this would be a great tool to have in your tool box.

By the way, this is a great Forum for collection, reference, experience and help to keep "Our Prizes" running safe and fast.
Thanks to all for sharing your knowledge.

Al

coffeemung9920 Avatar
coffeemung9920 Gold Member James C
Inman, SC, USA   USA
1971 MG MGB "Miss Take"
1972 MG MGB "Bee 44"
1999 Ford F-150 Pickup 4WD
2010 Mini Cooper    & more
Oh, Lordy, Oh Lord. If you got that much blow by, maybe U the one that needs a rebuild. I would just urge everyone to take a close look at molybdenum. Use it, might not need a rebuild after all. So, you might need a pint top up now and then. So what? I do not subscribe to the theory that a 45 year old engine needs oil technology of 45 years ago. Give me the modern stuff, with moly. If it is good enough for our Mercedes and our Mini, it is damn sure good enough for a 72 MG. And again I say, any of it will work. I choose to put the best in mine that I can find, and in my opinion, it will be something containing moly. Other folks differ, none of them "fools". I don't generally go around calling people who disagree with me "a fool".



The problem with political jokes is that they too often get elected.

oily-hands Avatar
oily-hands Owen Frankland
Stockton on Tees, Cleveland, UK   GBR
1937 MG TA "Numbum"
1971 MG MGB GT "The Bruise"
I'm in the cheapest 20/50 I can buy camp.

Since I bought my GT about 7 years ago I've put on around 60,000 miles and I don't drive it gently. It's on the road all year round.

I don't know how many miles were on the engine when I bought it.

On a cold start the oil pressure hits 70psi almost instantly. Hot running is 70psi. Hot idle is around 65psi. It burns no oil.

Just my experience.



Member of The International Society of Luddites (Unrepentant Chapter).

Take the time to understand what a part does and how it does it, then you'll have a better understanding of how to fix it when it goes wrong. Beats the scattergun approach every time.

Ignition testing made easy.

Making your MGB handbrake work

My You Tube Channel

Life with an MG TA and an MGB GT in the UK.

Our charity drive in our 1937 MGTA

33EJB Avatar
33EJB Tim C
LS, Eastern Ontario, Canada   CAN
1969 MG MGB
In reply to # 3536151 by coffeemung9920 I believe in Seafoam too, and have seen great results. It isn't magic, just modern technology.

Um... first sentence...

https://seafoamsales.com/about-us/

"Modern technology"? Compared to what - the steam engine?

V8MGBV8 Avatar
V8MGBV8 Carl Floyd
Kinggsport, TN, USA   USA
In reply to # 3536359 by 33EJB
In reply to # 3536151 by coffeemung9920 I believe in Seafoam too, and have seen great results. It isn't magic, just modern technology.

Um... first sentence...

https://seafoamsales.com/about-us/

"Modern technology"? Compared to what - the steam engine?

"Sea Foam became trademarked in 1942."

https://seafoamsales.com/about-us/

Also from the Sea Foam website:

1. Pail oil 40-60%
2. Naptha 25-35%
3. IPA 10-20%

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