MGB & GT Forum

Oil level

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tommylg Avatar
tommylg tom greene
murfreesboro, tn, USA   USA
What the hell does that mean?

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67motorcat Avatar
67motorcat Silver Member Steve O
Pinehurst, North Carolina, USA   USA
1967 MG MGB
Maybe a dumb question, but are you pulling the dipstick, wiping it clean, and then reinserting it back in the tube to get a true reading?

Find it baffling the reading is "all the way to the top"

tommylg Avatar
tommylg tom greene
murfreesboro, tn, USA   USA
Yes, multiple times.
Very strange.
I have done this a ton of times.
The only difference is I went from GTX to Rotella. Same brand of filter.
I will report back.

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Rod H. Avatar
Amity, Oregon, USA   USA
1964 MG MGB
1968 MG MGB GT
In reply to # 3514302 by tommylg The oil sump plug is at an angle and that is where I drained - it is very clean, ha ha.
Gearbox oil is good as I just checked it.
I will drain the engine oil in the am as I have another gallon of Rotella.

A new, clean drain pan costs less than a gallon of Rotella, so I'd drain it and put the correct amount of oil back in...except, as was said earlier in the thread, 10W-30 is too light weight for an MGB. Are you sure it's not 15W-40? That's still light for Summer use, but closer.

I can't understand why people are frightened of new ideas. I'm frightened of the old ones. John Cage

'63 MGB
'80 VW Vanagon Kombi
'09 Mazda 3 with 5 speed manual

oleanderjoe Avatar
oleanderjoe Silver Member Joseph Baba
Fresno, Ca, USA   USA
EXACTLY ???????????????????/

tommylg Avatar
tommylg tom greene
murfreesboro, tn, USA   USA

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-05-19 02:45 PM by Skye.

Aridgerunner Avatar
Aridgerunner Silver Member Bill Bussler
Montoursville, PA, USA   USA
1956 MG MGA 1500 "The A"
1959 Triumph TR3A "The Mistress"

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mgbtf Avatar
mgbtf Silver Member Dave Kalp
Fort Wayne, Indiana, USA   USA
1969 MG MGC GT
1980 MG MGB
Hey Joe, chill out man! Get that bee out of your ass! You have not contributed anything to this thread.

bills Avatar
bills Bill Spohn
W. Vancouver, , BC, Canada   CAN
Best way to reoil the engine is to add 4 qts., check the dipstick (without running it) and top the oil up until it hits the high mark on the dipstick. Run the engine, check gain and add to be in the middle of the dipstick marks (filling the filter will drop the level a little).

Bill Spohn
Current: 1958 MGA Twincam (race car (170 bhp)),1962 MGA Deluxe Coupe (98 bhp)
1957 Jamaican MGA (200 bhp)1965 1971 Jensen Interceptor (350 bhp)
2009 Pontiac Solstice GXP Coupe (350 bhp)
2007 BMW Z4M coupe (340 bhp)
Recent: 1969 MGC roadster (175 bhp),Jensen CV8 (375 bhp),
1969 Lamborghini Islero S (350 bhp), 1988 Fiero GT turbo (300 bhp)
North Vancouver BC

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Discocontented Avatar
Discocontented Erik Walter
MN, Crystal, USA   USA
1978 MG MGB "Vivian"
Man! People are testy today! This thread and Charles Windsor on another.

I haven't had this problem on an MG but I did have a problem on a Land Rover automatic transmission which was the reverse. No dipstick but drained and filled according to the workshop manual. Fill it until it runs out, check it while running and top off. On driving, however, it was apparent I didn't add enough. I drained it only to find there wasn't nearly the expected quantity and I ended up having to pump several quarts in.

Draining and measuring is the best way to determine where you actually are.

royster Avatar
royster Roy Aber
Bethel Park, Pennsylvania, USA   USA
1975 MG MGB "Nigel"
This does not pertain to your oil level problem , but I have been wondering why you are using Shell Rotella oil in the engine. Oils for diesel engines are designed to provide different cleaning qualities than oils designed for gasoline engines. While I'm sure that Rotella won't harm your engine, I believe you'll get better overall performance from a Shell, Castrol, Mobil or other premium gasoline engine motor oil. I would wager a dinner at my local Outback that an engine using Rotella oil will have more contaminants after a teardown than a comparable engine running conventional motor oil.

I'm aware that there is a belief that diesel motor oils will provide better protection than conventional oil if you have a high performance engine. But I have never seen any proof of this and quite to the contrary, I have seen a Can-Am engine running conventional motor oil torn down after it lost oil pressure and ran four laps at Mid-Ohio and the amount of bearing wear was negligible.

The oils originally used for the MGB back in the 1960's and 70's were quite adequate then and are far surpassed by the quality of motor oils available today. Back in those days, the API rating was SC or SD and today we're now up to SN, which means the API has revised and upgraded the standard requirements for conventional motor oils at least ten times.

I also think you should stay with the viscosity recommended by MG (i.e. 20W-50). I believe the people who designed these engines knew what they were doing when they specified the viscosity for the engine, gearbox and differential lubricants. Dick Moritz and I have exchanged personal e-mails about this and I think we both agree on this point. And as I said before, if you use a quality oil, which you obviously are doing by choosing Shell products, you should be home free.

Hopefully, by the time you read this, you will have solved your oil level problem.

"The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits."
-Albert Einstein

tommylg Avatar
tommylg tom greene
murfreesboro, tn, USA   USA
I drained the sump and got 5 quarts.
With a new Pure One filter and 4 quarts of 20/50 I am good to go.
I usually raise the nose but did not w/ the Rotella.
I am still not clear as to what was going on.
Thanks for the input, Tommy

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