MG-2013 is only 54 days away! · Corvallis, OR · July 17–21, 2013 · Visit MG-2013.com or the MG-2013 Forum for more info

MGB & GT Forum

Welcome! Sign In Register
Please Sign In or Register to Search

72 MGB Carburetor problem

Posted by 72MGBnovice 
Karl Sparklin
Dayton, USA   usa
Hi,
I've had a '72 MGB for a number of years and have had nearly trouble-free operation with it. But I've had some brake problems that's had it not running for a while. Those are now fixed, but now I'm having some carb problems. Once I get the car started with strategically placed jets of starter fluid, and pumping the pedal slightly to keep it running, it will idle OK, but coughs and dies if I try to rev it at all. I get out of the car and kick the front carb's "lever" and the car rev's up fine. But doing the same to the back carb will make the car cough and die if done for more than an instant. Any ideas?

I've looked through other threads here, and I either don't see this symptom, or the terms are a bit beyond me. Is this a float problem? Needle valve?

Thanks for any help; I just discovered the place in a YouTube video!

Karl

. You can hide this ad & support this site by upgrading to a Gold Membership ~ click here for more info.
rrmgb Avatar
robert schau
Reston, VA., USA   usa
1973 MG MGB
1973 MG MGB
Welcome to the MGE Karl ! You've come to the right place.
Stock carbs for a '72 are SU HIFs. Do you know if this is what you have?
Not sure what you mean by "kick the lever" but both carbs work in unison unless there is a linkage problem.
Last question for you....do you have a manual for reference?
I'm sure many will chime in on this but will also like to know which carbs you have.
RS



"It is a mistake to try to look too far ahead. The chain of destiny can only be grasped one link at a time."
Sir Winston Churchill
---------------------------------------------------------------
"It all starts in your mind's eye, then it goes to your heart
and finally to your very soul."
G.S.George PHD
Dave Braun Avatar
Minnesota, USA   usa
1952 MG TD "Tommy"
1970 MG MGB "Maggie"
1974 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Sammy"
If the metering needle is stuck in the jet and loose from the piston, it can do this as the accelerator is kicked down.

warmly,
dave
dbraun99 LLC   – Hastings, Minnesota USA dbraun99 LLC provides advice, repairs and restorations. We also provide complete bench services on SU Carburetors.
Karl Sparklin
Dayton, USA   usa
Thanks for your responses!
Yes, I have the stock SU HIF's.
I'm sorry I don't know the correct terms. The accelerator cable goes to a common linkage between the two carbs. If I hit the gas pedal, the car will sputter and nearly die. If I walk around and lift this common point, of course the same thing happens, but if I lift the individual screws where this linkage attaches, the front carb revs high just fine, but the back one is the one causing the stalling. But it idles OK!

It was running fine a few months ago when I only had brake problems. So it would run, but it wouldn't stop. Now it stops, but it won't run!

Viva British motoring!

Karl

. You can hide this ad & support this site by upgrading to a Gold Membership ~ click here for more info.
oily-hands Avatar
Owen Frankland
Stockton on Tees, Cleveland, United Kingdom   gbr
1937 MG TA "Numbum"
1971 MG MGB GT "The Bruise"
2002 MG ZR
It's possible but not that common for the pistons to stick when a car is sat for a while.

Easy to check, just remove the air filters and lift up each piston in turn and ensure that they are moving freely. I suspect that the back one may be sticking.



Member of The International Society of Luddites (Unrepentant Chapter).

Take the time to understand what a part does and how it does it, then you'll have a better understanding of how to fix it when it goes wrong. Beats the scattergun approach every time.

Ignition testing made easy.

Making your MGB handbrake work

My You Tube Channel

Life with an MG TA and an MGB GT in the UK.
Bankerdanny Avatar
Daniel Palmer
Chicagoland, USA   usa
1972 MG MGB GT "Dudley"
1977 Honda MC Gold Wing
Keep in mind that the linkage opens a butterfly creating a vacuum that lifts a piston and allows more fuel to flow.

I would pull the pots off the carbs and lightly clean the slide pistons and the inside of the barrel with some carb cleaner and 0000 steel wool. You don't want to remove any metal, just clean any shellac that might have built up that would cause the pistons to hang up.

Then I would remove the black screw on cap from the top of the pot, dump out the damper oil, put the pot back on and refill with the appropriate amount of 20-50.



Endeavor to Persevere

. You can hide this ad & support this site by upgrading to a Gold Membership ~ click here for more info.
tomkatb Avatar
Larry Baygents
Dayton, Ohio, USA   usa
1963 MG MGB
Karl

You are in a good place(Dayton Ohio) to work on a B.

There is a great shop here if all else fails.

The problem you describe could be one of many.

Is the fuel being delivered correctly? That is what I would check first.

One can learn a lot about these carbs by removing the air cleaners and mess with the linkage a while. Lots of light.

When you move the cable the carbs need to move together.



L.W.(Larry)Baygents
63B
77 Spit
geezer Avatar
charles durning
Magee, MS, USA   usa
1958 MG Magnette ZB "Chick Magnette"
Could have a stuck needle and seat that would keep the back carb from getting any fuel. Are the carbs still hooked together? If you can operate the front carb independantly from the rear carb you may also have a linkage issue that need to be resolved.

GILMGA Avatar
Gil Dupre
Chattanooga, TN, USA   usa
1962 MG MGA
1974 MG MGB GT
Remove the cap on top of the carb and make sure there is oil is in the hole and the piston moves up and down easily



Gil
Karl Sparklin
Dayton, USA   usa
Thanks to everyone that's helped so far!

Yes, "MG Automotive" is a great resource if things degrade that far, Larry. winking smiley I assume that fuel flow to the carbs is OK, since it idles all right. Foolish?

Owen, I should have said that I do indeed have the air filters off; they've been that way for months. I can indeed manually raise both pistons manually, although the one in back seems to take a bit more force.

Charles, would the car idle OK if the needle and/or seat were stuck? The carbs are indeed still stuck together, and the linkage seems to work OK. If I bypass the linkage and push on the relevant pieces on each carb individually, the front car revs the engine OK, but the back one makes it sputter and die.

GIl, there is indeed fluid in the hole. And the plunger seems to move in the back carb the way the one in front does.

Thanks for all the help!

Karl

geezer Avatar
charles durning
Magee, MS, USA   usa
1958 MG Magnette ZB "Chick Magnette"
In reply to # 2166762 by 72MGBnovice
Charles, would the car idle OK if the needle and/or seat were stuck? The carbs are indeed still stuck together, and the linkage seems to work OK. If I bypass the linkage and push on the relevant pieces on each carb individually, the front car revs the engine OK, but the back one makes it sputter and die.

Karl,

If the needle and seat are stuck in the closed position (no gas getting into the float bowl), YES, the engine will idle. However the power will be low, but, the engine will run on one carb. That just happened to me a couple of weeks ago.

Charlie D
NOHOME Avatar
Peter Plouf
London, Canada   can
1961 Austin-Healey Sprite Bugeye "Lil"
1967 MG MGB GT "Maggie (GT From Hell)"
I suspect the rear carb is gummed up due to the fuel sitting in it during the lay-up. Best bet would be to remove it and dismantle to clean all the orifices. The carbs really are simple.

tomkatb Avatar
Larry Baygents
Dayton, Ohio, USA   usa
1963 MG MGB
i would disconnect the fuel line at the carbs. Put the line in a quart container. Your pump should give you 16 ounces Iin about 60 seconds as I remember.

If that is ok then likely the carbs are all gummed up. My son buys four carb Hondas for cheap and cleans the carbs for a few dollars.

They are fairly easy to clean. Modern gas goes bad in six months.

Usually step one is valves, then ignition then carbs. However, it seems obvious the carbs are in trouble.



L.W.(Larry)Baygents
63B
77 Spit

Add your reply here, or post your own questions!

Members Sign In if you've already registered, or
Register a New Account
Registration is free and takes less than a minute

Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Check the Forum Help File (FAQ) or contact the webmaster.
View the archived version of this thread.
Built using Phorum Open Source Software


Join Our Club

Sign In to post questions or share your photos!

MGExp Menu

Welcome

Forums ->

MGB & GT

MG Midget

Buy, Sell & Trade

Vendor & Group Buy

MG Engine Swaps

Original MG

MGA

MGC

MG Magnette

1100 & 1300

T-Series & Prewar

Modern MGs

MG Motorsports

MG-2013 Event

Member Meetup

Other Vehicles

Off Topic

Clubs

Forum Search

Latest Posts

Journals

Calendar

Membership

Tech Library

Car Registry

Cars For Sale

Model Info

Motorsport

Directory

Member Map

MGExp Store

Search

Advertising Info

Smartphone quick link
mgexp.mobi

Adjust Text Size

Larger Smaller
Reset Save