Choke Cable Problem : MGB & GT Forum : MG Experience Forums : The MG Experience

Choke Cable Problem #1
lewisrn Bob Lewis Danville, IN, USA 1980 MG MGB "The "B""	Posted: August 28, 2012 03:55PM Registered: 2 years ago Posts: 3,581

I am trying to change my choke cable (for the third time!). This time I can't get the small lock nut loose on the screw that holds the cable at the carburetor (see pic), no matter how hard I try. As you can see by the picture, I've tried so hard that I have even bent that little screw.

After trying many different methods to break it loose, I am at the point of wanting to cut off that little screw with the hole in the end, but I can't find a replacement in Moss.

Does anyone know where I might find that little part? I don't want to go any farther until I have the new part in hand.

Life is a state of mind.

80B - Engine overhauled 1/11, SU HS4's, O/D, all Speedhut gauges, cruise control, front & rear suspensions rebuilt, tube shocks on rear, Moss lowering kit, Bell SS Exhaust, Ed's 110 amp alternator, Schlemmerized distributor with Pertronix, LED tail lights, halogen headlights, Limey's fuse box & relays, etc., etc.

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Re: Choke Cable Problem #2
mac townsend Fairfield, CA, USA	Posted: August 28, 2012 04:41PM Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 18,082

two 7/16 open end wrenches.

part from moss or curto.

1973 Roadster. A nice 50-footer!
SUs, Datsun 5-speed
MGB Tips and Tricks: www.mgrescue.com

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Re: Choke Cable Problem #3
lewisrn Bob Lewis Danville, IN, USA 1980 MG MGB "The "B""	Posted: August 28, 2012 05:24PM Registered: 2 years ago Posts: 3,581

In reply to # 2156200 by mac townsend two 7/16 open end wrenches.

part from moss or curto.

Thanks for the response, but they're not 7/16 and I have had the proper size wrenches on the screw and nut and can't get the lock nut to move.

As I stated in my original post, I can't find the screw in the Moss catalog. If you think it's in there, can you tell me where it is?

I'm not familiar with "curto", but I'll try to find it.

Life is a state of mind.

80B - Engine overhauled 1/11, SU HS4's, O/D, all Speedhut gauges, cruise control, front & rear suspensions rebuilt, tube shocks on rear, Moss lowering kit, Bell SS Exhaust, Ed's 110 amp alternator, Schlemmerized distributor with Pertronix, LED tail lights, halogen headlights, Limey's fuse box & relays, etc., etc.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/28/2012 06:25PM by lewisrn.

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Re: Choke Cable Problem #4
dickmoritz Dick Moritz Philly 'burbs, PA, USA	Posted: August 28, 2012 05:32PM Registered: 3 years ago Posts: 7,233

Moss p/n 375-108 or www.joecurto.com...

Dick

Errabundi Saepe, Semper Certi
(Often wrong, but always certain)

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Re: Choke Cable Problem #5
lewisrn Bob Lewis Danville, IN, USA 1980 MG MGB "The "B""	Posted: August 28, 2012 05:42PM Registered: 2 years ago Posts: 3,581

In reply to # 2156254 by dickmoritz Moss p/n 375-108 or www.joecurto.com...

Dick

Got it. Thanks Dick.

Silly me, I was looking at the carburetor section instead of the engine controls section. Part on order.

Life is a state of mind.

80B - Engine overhauled 1/11, SU HS4's, O/D, all Speedhut gauges, cruise control, front & rear suspensions rebuilt, tube shocks on rear, Moss lowering kit, Bell SS Exhaust, Ed's 110 amp alternator, Schlemmerized distributor with Pertronix, LED tail lights, halogen headlights, Limey's fuse box & relays, etc., etc.

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Re: Choke Cable Problem #6
bobmunch Bob Muenchausen PC, Oregon, USA 1968 MG MGB GT "Traveler"	Posted: August 28, 2012 05:50PM Registered: 13 years ago Posts: 11,526

If you go to NAPA they also sell cable stops, just not sure if they have that small size.

And those who were seen dancing were thought to be insane by those who could not hear the music.
Nietzsche

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Re: Choke Cable Problem #7
Lee Lee Miller Mburg, PA, USA 1966 MG MGB 1967 MG MGB 1971 MG MGB	Posted: August 28, 2012 08:42PM Registered: 13 years ago Posts: 4,186

Actually the choke cable does not attach there. The choke cable attaches to the brass lever.

The springs attached to the choke arms in the pictures were not needed and removed.

Lee Miller

Experience - hobbyist, rotisserie restoration 1967 MGB, welding, bodywork, painting, wiring, interior, suspension, clutch, engine, SU HS4 carburetors, windshield, and installing convertible top.

Website www.myclassicmg.com

1971 MGB
1967 MGB
1966 MGB restoration project

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Re: Choke Cable Problem #8
ddubois Dave DuBois Bremerton, WA, USA	Posted: August 28, 2012 09:53PM Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 4,281

Lee - It's different on HIF carbs.
Cheers,

Dave DuBois
1953 MGTD
1966 MGB
http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/

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Re: Choke Cable Problem #9
Lee Lee Miller Mburg, PA, USA 1966 MG MGB 1967 MG MGB 1971 MG MGB	Posted: August 28, 2012 10:05PM Registered: 13 years ago Posts: 4,186

He says he has HS4s

80B - Desmogged engine, overhauled 1/11, SU HS4's, O/D, all Speedhut gauges, cruise control, front & rear suspension rebuilt, tube shocks on rear, Moss lowering kit, Ed's 110 amp alternator, Schlemmerized distributor with Pertronix, LED tail lights, halogen headlights, Limey's fuse box & relays.

Lee Miller

Experience - hobbyist, rotisserie restoration 1967 MGB, welding, bodywork, painting, wiring, interior, suspension, clutch, engine, SU HS4 carburetors, windshield, and installing convertible top.

Website www.myclassicmg.com

1971 MGB
1967 MGB
1966 MGB restoration project

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Re: Choke Cable Problem #10
ddubois Dave DuBois Bremerton, WA, USA	Posted: August 29, 2012 02:18AM Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 4,281

Missed that, but all the same, the choke cable hookup looks like HIF style with the choke cable coming down from the top, rather than from the bottom like the HS4 style. In fact, the cable is attached to the point where the return spring should attach.
Cheers,

Dave DuBois
1953 MGTD
1966 MGB
http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/

How to advertise on this website

SU Fuel Pumps & More SU fuel pump restoration and conversion to solid state. Information and technical articles on SU fuel pumps.

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Re: Choke Cable Problem #11
lewisrn Bob Lewis Danville, IN, USA 1980 MG MGB "The "B""	Posted: August 29, 2012 01:49PM Registered: 2 years ago Posts: 3,581

In reply to # 2156631 by ddubois Missed that, but all the same, the choke cable hookup looks like HIF style with the choke cable coming down from the top, rather than from the bottom like the HS4 style. In fact, the cable is attached to the point where the return spring should attach.
Cheers,

I wondered about that also, especially since the brass lever is installed but unused. Are there different models of HS4? Mine supposedly came from a 71 MGB.

Works well the way it is now. My only issue is that the cable locking mechanisms last only a few months. I've gone through three in less than a year. I'm beginning to think it's me!

Life is a state of mind.

80B - Engine overhauled 1/11, SU HS4's, O/D, all Speedhut gauges, cruise control, front & rear suspensions rebuilt, tube shocks on rear, Moss lowering kit, Bell SS Exhaust, Ed's 110 amp alternator, Schlemmerized distributor with Pertronix, LED tail lights, halogen headlights, Limey's fuse box & relays, etc., etc.

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Re: Choke Cable Problem #12
ozieagle Herb Adler Geelong Victoria, Australia 1958 Wolseley 1500 "Wooly" 1966 MG MGB "Bl**dy B"	Posted: August 29, 2012 02:38PM Registered: 2 years ago Posts: 1,354

My only issue is that the cable locking mechanisms last only a few months

There is an article, somewhere, about this problem. Apparently the locking piece is made of plstic, and wears quickly. The articles describes how to make a metal piece.

Herb

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Re: Choke Cable Problem #13
lewisrn Bob Lewis Danville, IN, USA 1980 MG MGB "The "B""	Posted: August 29, 2012 04:22PM Registered: 2 years ago Posts: 3,581

In reply to # 2157058 by ozieagle My only issue is that the cable locking mechanisms last only a few months

There is an article, somewhere, about this problem. Apparently the locking piece is made of plstic, and wears quickly. The articles describes how to make a metal piece.

Herb

Yeah, I had stubbornly kept changing choke cables with the plastic "key" until today.

Earlier today I cut a slice off of a large bolt, ground it down into a half-moon shape and replaced the plastic key in the cable that I am going to install when the cable stop arrives.

Hopefully I'm done with choke cables, although I've had one cable that had the handle fall apart too. Don't know how to avoid that!

Life is a state of mind.

80B - Engine overhauled 1/11, SU HS4's, O/D, all Speedhut gauges, cruise control, front & rear suspensions rebuilt, tube shocks on rear, Moss lowering kit, Bell SS Exhaust, Ed's 110 amp alternator, Schlemmerized distributor with Pertronix, LED tail lights, halogen headlights, Limey's fuse box & relays, etc., etc.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 08/29/2012 04:33PM by lewisrn.

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Re: Choke Cable Problem #14
ddubois Dave DuBois Bremerton, WA, USA	Posted: August 29, 2012 10:10PM Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 4,281

In reply to a post by Bob Lewis wrote Earlier today I cut a slice off of a large bolt, ground it down into a half-moon shape and replaced the plastic key in the cable that I am going to install when the cable stop arrives.

The metal half moon piece will help, just make sure that you twist the cable knob all the way to the left and hold it there while releasing the cable. That way, you will greatly reduce wear on the half moon piece and on the locking shaft of the cable.
Cheers,

Dave DuBois
1953 MGTD
1966 MGB
http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/

How to advertise on this website

SU Fuel Pumps & More SU fuel pump restoration and conversion to solid state. Information and technical articles on SU fuel pumps.

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Re: Choke Cable Problem #15
lewisrn Bob Lewis Danville, IN, USA 1980 MG MGB "The "B""	Posted: August 30, 2012 10:10AM Registered: 2 years ago Posts: 3,581

In reply to # 2157410 by ddubois

In reply to a post by Bob Lewis wrote Earlier today I cut a slice off of a large bolt, ground it down into a half-moon shape and replaced the plastic key in the cable that I am going to install when the cable stop arrives.

The metal half moon piece will help, just make sure that you twist the cable knob all the way to the left and hold it there while releasing the cable. That way, you will greatly reduce wear on the half moon piece and on the locking shaft of the cable.
Cheers,

Thanks, Dave - I had thought of that. The cable becomes the weaker piece once I install the metal half-moon. Not having a locking mechanism is actually better than having a broken cable, but I will see how long this new configuration lasts.

I am really careful about how I use the choke knob, but evidently I'm doing something wrong since I've gone through so many cables in a relatively short time.

Life is a state of mind.

80B - Engine overhauled 1/11, SU HS4's, O/D, all Speedhut gauges, cruise control, front & rear suspensions rebuilt, tube shocks on rear, Moss lowering kit, Bell SS Exhaust, Ed's 110 amp alternator, Schlemmerized distributor with Pertronix, LED tail lights, halogen headlights, Limey's fuse box & relays, etc., etc.

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