Resuming a restoration on a '66 B : MGB & GT Forum : MG Experience Forums : The MG Experience

Resuming a restoration on a '66 B #1
bencii ben colpitts ohio, USA 1966 MG MGB	Posted: June 21, 2012 03:26PM Registered: 2 years ago Posts: 10

I am resuming a restoration I started over 20 years ago, prior to Al Gore inventing the internet. Although I had good intentions at that time and even purchased all the replacement sheet metal I never really moved far beyond the rust removal. I have built a rotisserie, but need some advice on how to move forward. My thoughts are to lower the shell onto to jack stands to release any tension placed on the shell by the rotisserie. Then reinstall the doors and get the gaps set, using a jack under the center cross member. Inner sills were completely cut out and new ones tacked in place 20 years, but will probably need to be removed and reinstalled. My first question is where should I place the jack stands in order to get the doors aligned correctly with respect to the front and rear wings and the chrome strip? The shell was not braced when the sills were cut out and I have read where some have used interior bracing and others are opposed since the car could spring back and be out of the proper alignment once the bracing is removed. so given my situation should I not use interior bracing, get the door set properly (on each side), then tack in the inner sill and castle. rechecking door fit at each step. Or do I need to install from and rear suspension and place jacks under them?
Any input would be greatly appreciated.

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Re: Resuming a restoration on a '66 B #2
Lee Lee Miller Mburg, PA, USA 1966 MG MGB 1967 MG MGB 1971 MG MGB	Posted: June 21, 2012 06:01PM Registered: 13 years ago Posts: 4,187

In reply to # 2099914 by bencii I am resuming a restoration I started over 20 years ago, prior to Al Gore inventing the internet. Although I had good intentions at that time and even purchased all the replacement sheet metal I never really moved far beyond the rust removal. I have built a rotisserie, but need some advice on how to move forward. My thoughts are to lower the shell onto to jack stands to release any tension placed on the shell by the rotisserie. Then reinstall the doors and get the gaps set, using a jack under the center cross member. Inner sills were completely cut out and new ones tacked in place 20 years, but will probably need to be removed and reinstalled. My first question is where should I place the jack stands in order to get the doors aligned correctly with respect to the front and rear wings and the chrome strip? The shell was not braced when the sills were cut out and I have read where some have used interior bracing and others are opposed since the car could spring back and be out of the proper alignment once the bracing is removed. so given my situation should I not use interior bracing, get the door set properly (on each side), then tack in the inner sill and castle. rechecking door fit at each step. Or do I need to install from and rear suspension and place jacks under them?
Any input would be greatly appreciated.

That is a lot to consider. Jack could write a book but I will keep it short. The unibody is very strong so as long as you left the side members, only cut the outer sill, and inner sill.

Support the body where the suspension is attached front and rear. Install the doors and wings to set gaps. Brace the shell across the doors and from left hand to right hand behind the doors. Leave the doors on and attach to the rotisserie. Measure, measure, measure, cut, fit, fit, fit, weld. get to it.

Lee Miller

Experience - hobbyist, rotisserie restoration 1967 MGB, welding, bodywork, painting, wiring, interior, suspension, clutch, engine, SU HS4 carburetors, windshield, and installing convertible top.

Website www.myclassicmg.com

1971 MGB
1967 MGB
1966 MGB restoration project

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Re: Resuming a restoration on a '66 B #3
MGB567 Barrie Braxton Sunshine Coast, Australia 1966 MG MGB MkI "Money Guzzler"	Posted: June 21, 2012 07:11PM Registered: 2 years ago Posts: 5,330

If you intend repainting the body my suggestions once you've got all your gaps set are: on the wings you have the 4 bonnet bump stops. Now if the wings are original to the car those 8 holes should line up already but if not once you're happy with the alignment drill new holes and that will 'set' the wings positions. Similarly with the bonnet gap set drill a small hole through each of the hinges and when it comes to removing/replacing the bonnet you can get it back on in position. With the doors you can 'lock' the hinges in position in the door - that way when you take the doors off you're only trying to adjust its position on the A pillar. It's a similar proposition for the boot. I'm assuming that you'll want to remove/reinstall these parts for a number of reasons including painting those removable parts off-body.

CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67 owned since 3/77. Undergoing nut and bolt restoration. Tartan Red (now). 18GB +40 balanced with almost all new internals. Peter Burgess big valve fast road head. Piper 285. TT exhaust. ARP everywhere. 123 ign. Needham 4synchro c/r box. Stock rebuilt/replaced suspension. Superpro bushes. New brakes all round including all pipes in SS flex. Interior redone. CAMS approved roll bar and side bars. Lots more. Hybrid of o/e and show/fast road car. Not for sale - it's my toy!

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Re: Resuming a restoration on a '66 B #4
bencii ben colpitts ohio, USA 1966 MG MGB	Posted: June 21, 2012 07:38PM Registered: 2 years ago Posts: 10

Lee, thanks I appreciate your feedback and Barrie's, as well as the PMs I have received. Unfortunately it was all cut out. A short section (10" winking smiley

of the inner sill at the rear fender was left in place on the passenger side and I seam welded a new section in its place. I also seam welded it to a new complete castle section. However after running a plumb line it appears the castle maybe 1/8" inward. A little more cutting and grinding but I should be able to fix that.

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Re: Resuming a restoration on a '66 B #5
purpleGT Bud Osbourne Pittsburgh, PA., USA 1974 MG MGB GT "The Grape" 1977 MG MGB	Posted: June 21, 2012 08:15PM Registered: 5 years ago Posts: 2,209

Ben,
If anything moved, you need to be checking more than door gaps, I'm afraid. Get ahold of the factory shop manual/Bentley manual and you will find a section dealing with chassis alignment. It tells you where to measure and what the dimensions should be. A perfectly level floor is helpful, but, desperate men do desperate things and you can find ways to work around it.
The suspension pick-up points are a good place to start placing supports. I use an engine crane to lift the car onto and off of my rotisserie, BTW.

Where in Ohio are you located?

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Re: Resuming a restoration on a '66 B #6
bencii ben colpitts ohio, USA 1966 MG MGB	Posted: June 21, 2012 09:43PM Registered: 2 years ago Posts: 10

Bud thanks for feedback. I have the Bentley "The Complete Official MGB" and did see some references to those drawing while searching the web. I will have to take a closer look at those before going any further. I also have the Lindsay Porter restoration manual and just picked up a copy of the Practical Classics MGB restoration, along with some "vintage" Chilton's and Haynes manuals that have acquired since buying the car in '73. I live in Mansfield, Ohio about 3 hours west of Pittsburgh.

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Re: Resuming a restoration on a '66 B #7
purpleGT Bud Osbourne Pittsburgh, PA., USA 1974 MG MGB GT "The Grape" 1977 MG MGB	Posted: June 22, 2012 06:45AM Registered: 5 years ago Posts: 2,209

In reply to # 2100209 by bencii Bud thanks for feedback. I have the Bentley "The Complete Official MGB" and did see some references to those drawing while searching the web. I will have to take a closer look at those before going any further. I also have the Lindsay Porter restoration manual and just picked up a copy of the Practical Classics MGB restoration, along with some "vintage" Chilton's and Haynes manuals that have acquired since buying the car in '73. I live in Mansfield, Ohio about 3 hours west of Pittsburgh.

Ben,
I was hoping you were closer to Pittsburgh. At any rate, the publications you mention should provide you with some good information as well as stimulating your imagination to come up with methods to obtain accurate measurements, etc.
I haven't read the Practical Classics publication, but I do have Lindsay Porter's book. I would like to caution you that Porter does some really bone-headed stuff, when it comes to fitting complete rear fenders (what he does to the top seam is near criminal, IMHO, not to mention his methods for attaching rear fenders & door posts to Spridget sills sad smiley

), so don't follow his advice blindly. Still, there is good information to be had from his writing.
The B unibody is an enormously strong structure and, even with the side members cut out, can retain a surprising amount of rigidity. I think I'd be more concerned with twisting than with sagging or hogging (high in middle, low at ends).
Of course, as you've probably already concluded: never remove a rusty panel until immediately before replacing it with new steel. winking smiley

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Re: Resuming a restoration on a '66 B #8
MGB567 Barrie Braxton Sunshine Coast, Australia 1966 MG MGB MkI "Money Guzzler"	Posted: June 22, 2012 08:19AM Registered: 2 years ago Posts: 5,330

With Porter you always have to remember that he starts with a Heritage bodyshell and builds it up with both donor and new parts so if something he writes about doesn't gel with what you're seeing that's because most of us aren't building a 'new' car. He does, however, point out a number of times that the shell requires modification to fit the donor parts.

CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67 owned since 3/77. Undergoing nut and bolt restoration. Tartan Red (now). 18GB +40 balanced with almost all new internals. Peter Burgess big valve fast road head. Piper 285. TT exhaust. ARP everywhere. 123 ign. Needham 4synchro c/r box. Stock rebuilt/replaced suspension. Superpro bushes. New brakes all round including all pipes in SS flex. Interior redone. CAMS approved roll bar and side bars. Lots more. Hybrid of o/e and show/fast road car. Not for sale - it's my toy!

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