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Fuel pump clicking but no fuel

Posted by sflaherty 
Sam F
Northwest, USA   usa
1976 MG MGB

Hi All,

Rebuilt my 1976 MGB carb and completely replaced the clutch cylinder and master slave. My 15 year old daughter helped me. It was 10 pm when we finished the clutch. We were so excited to finally go for a spin. Started, ready....stopped. Pump is clicking but no fuel. What would be best quick trouble shooting? Thanks!
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curtis7420 Avatar
Curtis Wright
Univerisity City, MO, USA   usa

is there a fuel filter attached? if so, is it new or old? sounds like it may be clogged...

pull the line to make sure that fuel is being pumped out...

good luck
Sam F
Northwest, USA   usa
1976 MG MGB

Filter is new and can see fuel is getting there. I am thinking plugged line?
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Sam F
Northwest, USA   usa
1976 MG MGB

Sorry....Fuel NOT getting to filter.
mgcgt2912 Avatar
Richard Bailey
Cully, East Devon England, United Kingdom   gbr
1969 MG MGC GT ~ For Sale ! ~

If the line between pump and carbs is blocked ..then the pump will stop ticking.

If I remember rightly it happened to me once a long time ago after I had fitted a new pump.It was ticking away like a good'un but only fresh air getting to carbs.
Some sort air leak ( or lock) between tank and pump. Never did find out exactly what it was. Just refitted the pipe connections and it cured it
R
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Sam F
Northwest, USA   usa
1976 MG MGB

Good tip. Thanks
pleblanc1206 Avatar
Pierre Leblanc
Saline, MI, USA   usa
1974 MG MGB GT "Strider"
2013 Scion FR-S

In reply to # 2083200 by mgcgt2912 If the line between pump and carbs is blocked ..then the pump will stop ticking.

If I remember rightly it happened to me once a long time ago after I had fitted a new pump.It was ticking away like a good'un but only fresh air getting to carbs.
Some sort air leak ( or lock) between tank and pump. Never did find out exactly what it was. Just refitted the pipe connections and it cured it
R

This happened to me last year after installing a new Facet pump and filter. There was a leak between the tank and pump, and air was getting sucked in causing a constant ticking and very little fuel getting to the carbs. The fitting on the side of the tank broke loose and then fuel started leaking from there. I rebonded the fitting to the side of the tank with JB Weld and its been fine for the past year.



1974 MGB-GT: black-label overdrive, essentially stock engine but detoxed, Allison XR-700 ignition.
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curtis7420 Avatar
Curtis Wright
Univerisity City, MO, USA   usa

if it's a "lock" then would it help to play around with the gas cap? try taking it off and on while attempting to start it...

honestly, i have no idea, but that's something i would try...certainly couldn't hurt anything
Tim Dowell
Ottawa, Canada   can
1978 MG MGB

The pump is most likely sucking air not gas. Check the hoses especially around the pump itself for leaks or loose connections.
ddubois Avatar
Dave DuBois
Bremerton, WA, USA   usa

Sam - You don't say what kind of pump is in your car. If it is an aftermarket pump like a Facet, it will chatter away regardless of clogs on either side of the pump. If you have a SU pump, a clog on either side of the pump will cause it to stall and if it is on the inlet side of the pump, the pump will get hot.

I am going to approach this as though you have a SU pump in the car. The very first thing that I would consider is an air leak on the inlet side of the pump.

How long was the pump sitting while you were fussing with the carburetors? If it was a month or so, the fuel could have evaporated out to the pump, allowing the valves to dry out, causing them to loose a good seal. First try tightening the screws around the flange of the coil housing. If this doesn't get the pump working, remove the line going from the vapor separator. Rig a line to the outlet fitting on the separator. Turn the ignition on and let the pump rattle away while you blow into the line rigged up to the separator. If dry valves are the culprit, the pump should start pumping fuel in a few seconds. If this works, your pump is probably a good candidate for rebuild. If this doesn't work, then restore the normal plumbing to the separator and attach the line to the inlet side of the pump and dip it into a can of fuel. Turn the ignition on and see if the pump start pumping fuel - it it does, there is a problem in the line from the tank to the pump. If it doesn't start pumping fuel, then remove the large domed cap on the side of the pump (held in place with a single hes head screw) and check the condition of the cork gasket under it. If it is cracked, torn or other wise not in good shape, replace it. If this doesn't work, is definitely time for a rebuild of the pump (or a new pump).
Cheers,



Dave DuBois
1953 MGTD
1966 MGB
http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/

Member Services:
SU fuel pump restoration and conversion to solid state. Information and technical articles on SU fuel pumps.
pcadogan Avatar
pat c
ok, USA   usa
1973 MG MGB "Eliza Jane"

Blocked screen in the tank?
Sam F
Northwest, USA   usa
1976 MG MGB

In reply to # 2083243 by ddubois Sam - You don't say what kind of pump is in your car. If it is an aftermarket pump like a Facet, it will chatter away regardless of clogs on either side of the pump. If you have a SU pump, a clog on either side of the pump will cause it to stall and if it is on the inlet side of the pump, the pump will get hot.

I am going to approach this as though you have a SU pump in the car. The very first thing that I would consider is an air leak on the inlet side of the pump.

How long was the pump sitting while you were fussing with the carburetors? If it was a month or so, the fuel could have evaporated out to the pump, allowing the valves to dry out, causing them to loose a good seal. First try tightening the screws around the flange of the coil housing. If this doesn't get the pump working, remove the line going from the vapor separator. Rig a line to the outlet fitting on the separator. Turn the ignition on and let the pump rattle away while you blow into the line rigged up to the separator. If dry valves are the culprit, the pump should start pumping fuel in a few seconds. If this works, your pump is probably a good candidate for rebuild. If this doesn't work, then restore the normal plumbing to the separator and attach the line to the inlet side of the pump and dip it into a can of fuel. Turn the ignition on and see if the pump start pumping fuel - it it does, there is a problem in the line from the tank to the pump. If it doesn't start pumping fuel, then remove the large domed cap on the side of the pump (held in place with a single hes head screw) and check the condition of the cork gasket under it. If it is cracked, torn or other wise not in good shape, replace it. If this doesn't work, is definitely time for a rebuild of the pump (or a new pump).
Cheers,


Dave,
Thanks. I disconnected the intake to pump from tank and blew some air. Immediately gas came rushing out everywhere. I hurriedly replaced the line figuring there may have been a clog in the line. No dice. Still clicking away without fuel. The pump doesn't look original SU. I will check.
Sam F
Northwest, USA   usa
1976 MG MGB

In reply to # 2083277 by sflaherty
In reply to # 2083243 by ddubois Sam - You don't say what kind of pump is in your car. If it is an aftermarket pump like a Facet, it will chatter away regardless of clogs on either side of the pump. If you have a SU pump, a clog on either side of the pump will cause it to stall and if it is on the inlet side of the pump, the pump will get hot.

I am going to approach this as though you have a SU pump in the car. The very first thing that I would consider is an air leak on the inlet side of the pump.

How long was the pump sitting while you were fussing with the carburetors? If it was a month or so, the fuel could have evaporated out to the pump, allowing the valves to dry out, causing them to loose a good seal. First try tightening the screws around the flange of the coil housing. If this doesn't get the pump working, remove the line going from the vapor separator. Rig a line to the outlet fitting on the separator. Turn the ignition on and let the pump rattle away while you blow into the line rigged up to the separator. If dry valves are the culprit, the pump should start pumping fuel in a few seconds. If this works, your pump is probably a good candidate for rebuild. If this doesn't work, then restore the normal plumbing to the separator and attach the line to the inlet side of the pump and dip it into a can of fuel. Turn the ignition on and see if the pump start pumping fuel - it it does, there is a problem in the line from the tank to the pump. If it doesn't start pumping fuel, then remove the large domed cap on the side of the pump (held in place with a single hes head screw) and check the condition of the cork gasket under it. If it is cracked, torn or other wise not in good shape, replace it. If this doesn't work, is definitely time for a rebuild of the pump (or a new pump).
Cheers,


Dave,
Thanks. I disconnected the intake to pump from tank and blew some air. Immediately gas came rushing out everywhere. I hurriedly replaced the line figuring there may have been a clog in the line. No dice. Still clicking away without fuel. The pump doesn't look original SU. I will check.

It is SU. I will try as described.
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