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Well, so far I haven't cracked the windshield......YET!.

Posted by jjgerding 
jjgerding Avatar
jay gerding
Spring Hill, Florida, USA   usa
Last year, I purchased an intact windshield assembly for my 80 "B" because my glass had a crack from top to bottom on the passenger side. (Now that I am into it, this is probably the result of some PO installing it incorrectly.) The price was $100, and the glass looked good and was XXX and, at the time, I had NO IDEA what a PITA this thing was gonna be to install.

Fast forward to last week. I watched a couple of videos from various sources, checked out the Chicago Club's page, ordered the bottom gasket and pillar gaskets and on Friday went ahead and removed the old assembly from the car (I wanted to do some paint work there, and reasoned that it would be easier to do with the WS off.)

This was MISTAKE #1. It is now Monday night, and I just got back from a friend's house where he and his wife helped me get the %#$%^%##@#$ gasket in the slot. In the process, I had to go ahead and remove the glass from the frame. So, now, I figure I might-as-well replace the glass gasket, which means another order, etc., etc., etc.

I am sure there will be several more mistakes as I go. Here I am with no car, beautiful weather, bunch of car related stuff coming up this weekend, and extremely frustrated. Those who say that this is the worst job on this car are NOT mistaken.

Stay tuned.........

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Simon Austin Avatar
Surrey, BC, Canada   can
Hehe....have fun. Every MGB owner should have to do this job as an initiation to B ownership.

This project really separates the men from the boys!



"Speed costs........how fast you want to spend?"
29desoto Avatar
Wayne Sanders
Outside Otis, OR - in the woods!, USA   usa
1965 MG MGB V6 Conversion "Tubby"
1977 MG MGB "Ole Yeller"
1979 MG MGB "Kermit"
1984 Chevrolet Corvette "The Green Weenie"
1994 Chevrolet S10 "Lil Red"
Crap, crap, and double crap. That's probably one of the next jobs on the schedule for the red car.

Pictures and advice would be welcome!



Wayne Sanders
Rose Lodge, OR

"I don't care to belong to any club that accepts people like me"-joined Willamette Valley Club in 2011

77 MGB - Four tone paint - some kind of electronic ignition - hood props - cheap tires - new springs all around - mixture of poly and rubber bushings - original exhaust - fuzzy seatcovers - stereo out of old F150 pickup - virtually no rust - right front wrecked and semi well repaired - just about right for me!

78 MGB - Done right by a good PO, and I only bought it. Tell Jim how nice it is. But I did put in a Datsun 5 speed.

79/65 MGB - Tubby - Carmine Red - V-6 - T-5
Going to do this one more right, less rat rod!

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John Mandella
Snohomish, USA   usa
Can you post the link to the videos you watched? Did you use the c-clamp technique to "lower" the windsheild frame to align the bolt holes??
mgbracer80 Avatar
Troy Harris
Olathe, USA   usa
I have had the true privilege of doing this 5 times on 4 different cars. The last one I did, I installed it, tightened it down and a crack magically appeared . It's a real patience tester, but I'd rather do this than install a seat. I am keeping the passenger seat out of my car as I am frustrated to the point of throwing the whole car away after reinstalling the drivers side!

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jjgerding Avatar
jay gerding
Spring Hill, Florida, USA   usa
Here is the video and the Chicago MG Club page on this. The video shows a pretty cool way of installing it by yourself, but I am gonna have to do it without taking our the seats. Also, I have not taken out the dash as yet. Not saying I'm not gonna have to, but gonna try it first as I really did not have any problem getting the old one off with the dash in place. (Note the idea of tapering the tips of the bolts.)
http://www.adkison.name/mgb/tech-articles-3/windscreen.html

http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/b_windscreen/

I'll let you all know how this works out. I DID manage to get the gasket on with only two guys and a girl while the Chicago guys apparently needed 4 guys. Also, I used petroleum jelly to lube it, both in the track and on the rubber as it went in the slot.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/09/2012 11:50PM by jjgerding.
mgbracer80 Avatar
Troy Harris
Olathe, USA   usa
I have done it every time without taking the seats or dash out. I understand taking the dash out for paint, but this certainly working harder than you have to.

Bryan73 Avatar
Bryan G
Virginia, USA   usa
1973 MG MGB "Nametaken"
Hey Jay

I also just completed this task solo with a clamp and for the gasket to body I used cooking spray. At first I tried everything for lube but the cooking spray won hands down.

Must have tools for this job.






Bryan
Peter-Sherman Avatar
Peter Sherman
Melbourne, Australia   aus
On each side I run a loop of cord/rope from the front wheels over the top of the windscreen side pillars. Twisted a big screw driver or stick in the rope to tension it. Towel or blanket to protect paint. Go slow and massage the rubber seal flat, often.

I take off the covers at the top of the door jams. These are cosmetic and cover where the side pillars come down through the guards and bolt to the car. They are held on by a few small rivets and clips. you could use even just one small screw to replace them after you are done. I don't even bother with that, the rubber door seal holds mine in place.

This makes lining up the rear holes a bit easier. You can see them. Most importantly however, it allows you to check and see that there is no gap so that when you tighten up the bolts they do not pull the screen in and stress it. Makes it easy to shim if necessary.

cautiosly close the doors and test the pillar angle prior to the final bolt tighten.

Attachments:
wcreenspacer.JPG (31 KB) –
wcreenspacer.JPG
allen kenny
omaha, USA   usa
1976 MG MGB
In reply to # 2036923 by Peter-Sherman On each side I run a loop of cord/rope from the front wheels over the top of the windscreen side pillars. Twisted a big screw driver or stick in the rope to tension it. Towel or blanket to protect paint. Go slow and massage the rubber seal flat, often.

I take off the covers at the top of the door jams. These are cosmetic and cover where the side pillars come down through the guards and bolt to the car. They are held on by a few small rivets and clips. you could use even just one small screw to replace them after you are done. I don't even bother with that, the rubber door seal holds mine in place.

This makes lining up the rear holes a bit easier. You can see them. Most importantly however, it allows you to check and see that there is no gap so that when you tighten up the bolts they do not pull the screen in and stress it. Makes it easy to shim if necessary.

cautiosly close the doors and test the pillar angle prior to the final bolt tighten.

What do you do if the pillar angle is not correct? Do you just "wedge" or maneuver it up to the appropriate angle and then tighten the bolts? Or is there a shimming process? If so, what do you use for shims?
lewisrn Avatar
Bob Lewis
Danville, IN, USA   usa
1980 MG MGB "The "B""
When\If I ever have one of those days that I'm just feeling great and believe I can do anything, I think I will go remove & reinstall my windshield. When I get that done I will remove & reinstall the heater. To top off the day, I will remove and reinstall the rear brake cylinder clips with my bare hands and lie in the floor board and remove and install all of the dash gauges.

I can't think of more fun than that!!devil smiley



Life is a state of mind.

80B - Engine overhauled 1/11, SU HS4's, O/D, all Speedhut gauges, cruise control, front & rear suspensions rebuilt, tube shocks on rear, Moss lowering kit, Bell SS Exhaust, Ed's 110 amp alternator, Schlemmerized distributor with Pertronix, LED tail lights, halogen headlights, Limey's fuse box & relays, etc., etc.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/12/2012 02:36PM by lewisrn.

frank0936 Avatar
Frank Stabler
So. Alabama, USA   usa
1975 MG MGB "Miss Scarlett"
I R&R'd mine several years ago. The most frustrating part was getting the new windscreen to body rubber to lie flat. The rest wasn't that hard. I didn't replace the glass, though. I was just replacing the seal. I had the mistaken idea that some of my water leaks were from that seal.



_______________________________________
Frank

A legend in my own mind....
75 B with HIFs and Pertronix
andesrider Avatar
Peter Young
Kingston, Ontario, Canada   can
1968 MG MGB
I found the Ken Adkison videos (see post above) to make the most sense. Well done Ken and thanks for the link Jay. I'm ready to tackle this on my own. However, - - - >

Can someone help with a related problem: I've found very little info on the pillar spacers ("packing"winking smiley AHH 6413 & AHH 6414 or Moss 408-060 & 408-070
Mine was missing and probably explains why I've had 5 cracked windshields since I got the car in 1995. Now . . . how are the spacers installed? The parts pics show an inner thin spacer and an outer thick aluminum spacer. I have both in hand (see phooto) but there doesn't seem to bee enough room to insert them. The 2nd photo shows the current installation without spacers . . . pillar tightened too much of course but still very little space to the sheet metal. Thoughts? Also, the cast part # on the aluminum spacer must have to be ground off, right? I'll drill & tap for a mounting hole missing in the casting.
Thanks for any enlightenment or experience.

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pcgold Avatar
Paul _
Saskatchewan, Canada   can
1974 MG MGB
I did this job about 5 or 6 years ago. It took a long time, was a PITA, but I got 'er done. A few weeks later, the outside temps dropped, it got cold in my garage and I came out to a crack from halfway down the left side frame to about 6 inches in. Because this was such a pain to do, I've left that crack. It will be an even colder day in youknowhere before I do that job again.
calnegtdriver Avatar
dave hagan
calne wiltshire, United Kingdom   gbr
never done this job ,but would soaking the rubber in hot water help t make it a bit more flexable.

Simon Austin Avatar
Surrey, BC, Canada   can
Anything will help, Dave, but the frame-to-body seal is a very flexible piece to begin with. The issues that occur are the angle the seal must be turned to in order to get it started in the channel; the channel itself and the length of the bottom frame in which the seal resides.

As one makes progress by keeping the seal in the channel, the harder it gets to slide along.

Best product I've found to lubricate the seal and channel is K-Y Jelly. Yes, that K-Y Jelly. It's water soluble, cheap to buy and apparently has other uses.

It's a fun job and feels SO good when completed.



"Speed costs........how fast you want to spend?"
jjgerding Avatar
jay gerding
Spring Hill, Florida, USA   usa
Peter - I think you have found my latest problem. When I went to install the WS, I found that the bottom rail bowed out so far that it "popped" the rivets holding that little center assembly right off. I then removed the covers from the inside of the door jamb, thinking that perhaps the spacers had fallen when I took off the old WS. Nothing was there, but there are some sort of spacer made out of plastic which are secured by a screw drilled through from the inside of the car.

I am gonna call Gordon Strickland at the Bhive later today to try to find out the exact width of the OEM spacers, and probably order some from him.

As far as getting the bottom seal to "uncurl", good quality nylon string pre-placed in the slot and then pulled out seems to work just fine. No heating required.

Peter-Sherman Avatar
Peter Sherman
Melbourne, Australia   aus
I was originally missing the thin spacers as well and half of one of the thick ones. Result, cracked first windscreen.
Correct Thick spacers- The early cars had alloy spacers, later ones plastic.
Correct Thin spacers-made of a sort of cardboard "glove box" materal.
They are ment to be held in place with a screw, in the middle, from the inside of the car.

In fact I used some bits of flat fan belt I had handy, that was exactly the right thickness. Doesn't really matter what you use, you will be putting those metal covers back over it anyway. Just so long as there is no gap and the glass is unstressed when you do the bolts up nice and tight. Lots of people will swing themselves in and out of the car by hanging onto the windcreen pillar. They shouldn't, but they will do it anyway sooner or later so it has got to be firm.
To get the doors and windscreen alighned do some careful wriggling and seal massaging before tightening up all the bolts. When you close the door the verical rubber pillar seals should just compress a tiny bit, just enough to keep water out, not enough to give the windscreen a hard push every time you close the door. That is bound to end badly.

The centre bolts are not so much there to secure the windscreen tot the car but rather are about connecting the roof to the car body via the centre "rear view mirror" strut so that when you clip the two big roof clips to the top of the windscreen you do not pull up the top of the windscreen.
NOHOME Avatar
Peter Plouf
London, Canada   can
1961 Austin-Healey Sprite Bugeye "Lil"
1967 MG MGB GT "Maggie (GT From Hell)"
In reply to # 2041848 by Simon Austin Anything will help, Dave, but the frame-to-body seal is a very flexible piece to begin with. The issues that occur are the angle the seal must be turned to in order to get it started in the channel; the channel itself and the length of the bottom frame in which the seal resides.

As one makes progress by keeping the seal in the channel, the harder it gets to slide along.

Best product I've found to lubricate the seal and channel is K-Y Jelly. Yes, that K-Y Jelly. It's water soluble, cheap to buy and apparently has other uses.

It's a fun job and feels SO good when completed.


Did this job a few weeks back, first on the Bugey ena then the very next day on the 68 MGB. I headed down to the adult toy emporium and asked for the sliperiest stuff they had!

The MG was not too bas since there were 3 people on the job. Two people were "stroking" the rubber along the grove, while the third person controled the rubber as it went over the two gaps where the frame scres are accessed.

We were doing this with the one side pillar removed, so it was necessary to put those two screw back in. Some people pull the rubber out of the track, replace the screws and then spend a painful time shoving the rubber back in the grove. That sucked and we destroyed the first rubber.

Easy way: Once you reach the far side, trim the near side and them keep pushing. It is not too hard to bunch the rubber up enough so that you can reinstall the screws. Then massage the seal back to the near side.

forestghost07 Avatar
Marco Sinai
Florida, USA   usa
1972 MG MGB GT "Viajero"
1999 Chevrolet Blazer "Works For Gas"
In reply to # 2035933 by mgbracer80 I am keeping the passenger seat out of my car as I am frustrated to the point of throwing the whole car away after reinstalling the drivers side!

Hey Troy, I'm facing seat R & R soon and I had the idea to use 4" long 1/4-28 bolts, which I've threaded all the way down with a 1/4-28 die, as temporary locating studs for replacing the seats. Running them up from the underside should have them sticking up enough to work, what do you think? I used 4" bolts because my seats are raised up on pieces of 2 x 2 drilled to match the orig. packing strips.



~ Marco and Viajero ~

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