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What did you do with your MGB today?

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Chinick Avatar
Chinick Humberto Hernan Herrera
Panama, Panama, Panama   PAN
In reply to # 3534582 by Gokart Humberto,

I see your window winder has lost its knob. I was having that problem too, I got the metal ones that have the same fit but they sit a bit further in. Nothing a spacer couldn't fix. But the knob wasn't to secure on that either so I substituted a metal kitchen cupboard door knob.

Tim,

Two coils?

As for me I put new seals in an around my heater box. I now have warm air to the demister ducts.:

Thanks Rob,

Taking your tip. However I already bought a set of new window winders. Regards...

Humberto.

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tnrkitect Avatar
tnrkitect Silver Member L. Brian Woodroof
Huntsville, AL, USA   USA
1966 MG MGB MkI "Audrey"
1972 MG MGB
Yes, I had double-checked the piston orientation. They were correct. Still very good advice though!

tnrkitect Avatar
tnrkitect Silver Member L. Brian Woodroof
Huntsville, AL, USA   USA
1966 MG MGB MkI "Audrey"
1972 MG MGB
Update on the Brake Squeal issue.

SUCCESS!!! smileys with beer

Changing out pads from the generic ceramic pads included in the VB Front Brake kit (FBK100) to Wagner ThermoQuiet pads worked!

Wagner's website has a good number of tech tips including a PDF focused solely on solving brake squeal. It gives a number of tips including, on how to clean your rotors, proper install, and proper bedding in technique.

I followed those to a T when I changed the pads (getting pretty good with the job, even though the split pins / clips are still a pain) and took it out for a test drive / bedding in drive (20 complete stops from 30 mph with a 1/4 mile in between for cool down).

No. More. Squeal.
smileys with beer

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RichardTS Avatar
RichardTS Richard Smith
Covington, Louisiana, USA   USA
1973 MG MGB "The MG"
Just the opposite of mine. I'm pretty sure mine is heat soak.

What does it do if you disconnect the manifold vacuum? Could be way advanced at idle depending on your vac unit.

In reply to # 3534960 by Ex-Calif More pervasive when cold. Better when warm and off enrichment and almost tolerable when fully warmed.

It will idle all day long hot or cold without changing.

If I lead with the throttle it is almost unnoticeable - that's why I am now thinking dizzy curve.

In reply to # 3534700 by RichardTS Does the off idle stumble happen every time regardless of engine temp or does it happen fully warmed up after sitting at a traffic light or just in stop and go traffic?

Been chasing similar in mine.

In reply to # 3534614 by Ex-Calif Been daily driving the roadster for a few weeks. Car has been running great but with an annoying off idle stumble (sub 800 rpm - 1200 rpm) has persisted.

Desmogged '77 with TT exhaust, twin SU's, stock dizzy with XR700 breakerless ignition & manifold vac.

Yesterday I washed it in the morning. My working theory was shifting rich on accel so...

- Started with - stock dashpot springs, 20/50 oil, .050 jet height, 32 deg all in timing & 800 rpm idle
- Put no oil in dashpot - worse
- Put stiffer springs in dashpot & 90 wt oil - no change
- Tested with vacuum advance plugged - worse accel
- Adjust mixture lean (0.040 jet height) - Better but ran out of accel at 4,500 RPM - lean limited
- Readjusted mixture by road tune/ear
- Advanced the timing - better but high rpm stumblling & heavy afterfire in decel! (Confirmed vac advance is working)
- Ear tuned everything back to nominal.

New working theory is that the dizzy just isn't curved correctly for this set up - I can get sufficient initial advance with too much high rpm advance or insufficient idel advance with proper high rpm advance. Today I am going to put everything back to nominal and throw in a new flamethrower dizzy that I have on the shelf.

Took the B in the afternoon to a friend's house and introduced Bs to the next generation. My buddy told me that his little girl had seen a B on Friday and called it so "cool" - He told her that a frined at work had one so I took it over and let dad take her for a ride.

<edit> Oh - Also (finally) put in the shortened gas pedal. When swapping from ZS to HS4 the gas pedal height raised about 2 inches. Bought a shortened pedal from a member here and it's been on the shelf forever. Had to tweak it slightly to ensure it bottomed out on the floor (sans pedal stop) and had full travel to WOT. Finally nice to be able to stretch out my driving foot! 15 minute job...

Ex-Calif Avatar
Ex-Calif Gold Member Dan D
Cincinnati, Ohio, USA   USA
1968 MG MGB GT "Bart - Yellow And Naughty"
1977 MG MGB "Red Betty"
2012 Jeep Liberty "Tank"
2014 Hyundai Accent "Skate"
Idle RPM (obviously) drops but I adjust back within limits.

Acceleration off idle is much worse.

Didn't get a chance to install the replacement dizzy - It specifically calls out ported vacuum and my SUs aren't drilled - It's always sumptin'

I think for troubleshooting I am gonna swap the entire ignition system off the GT - it's working perfectly.

In reply to # 3535403 by RichardTS Just the opposite of mine. I'm pretty sure mine is heat soak.

What does it do if you disconnect the manifold vacuum? Could be way advanced at idle depending on your vac unit.

In reply to # 3534960 by Ex-Calif More pervasive when cold. Better when warm and off enrichment and almost tolerable when fully warmed.

It will idle all day long hot or cold without changing.

If I lead with the throttle it is almost unnoticeable - that's why I am now thinking dizzy curve.

In reply to # 3534700 by RichardTS Does the off idle stumble happen every time regardless of engine temp or does it happen fully warmed up after sitting at a traffic light or just in stop and go traffic?

Been chasing similar in mine.

In reply to # 3534614 by Ex-Calif Been daily driving the roadster for a few weeks. Car has been running great but with an annoying off idle stumble (sub 800 rpm - 1200 rpm) has persisted.

Desmogged '77 with TT exhaust, twin SU's, stock dizzy with XR700 breakerless ignition & manifold vac.

Yesterday I washed it in the morning. My working theory was shifting rich on accel so...

- Started with - stock dashpot springs, 20/50 oil, .050 jet height, 32 deg all in timing & 800 rpm idle
- Put no oil in dashpot - worse
- Put stiffer springs in dashpot & 90 wt oil - no change
- Tested with vacuum advance plugged - worse accel
- Adjust mixture lean (0.040 jet height) - Better but ran out of accel at 4,500 RPM - lean limited
- Readjusted mixture by road tune/ear
- Advanced the timing - better but high rpm stumblling & heavy afterfire in decel! (Confirmed vac advance is working)
- Ear tuned everything back to nominal.

New working theory is that the dizzy just isn't curved correctly for this set up - I can get sufficient initial advance with too much high rpm advance or insufficient idel advance with proper high rpm advance. Today I am going to put everything back to nominal and throw in a new flamethrower dizzy that I have on the shelf.

Took the B in the afternoon to a friend's house and introduced Bs to the next generation. My buddy told me that his little girl had seen a B on Friday and called it so "cool" - He told her that a frined at work had one so I took it over and let dad take her for a ride.

<edit> Oh - Also (finally) put in the shortened gas pedal. When swapping from ZS to HS4 the gas pedal height raised about 2 inches. Bought a shortened pedal from a member here and it's been on the shelf forever. Had to tweak it slightly to ensure it bottomed out on the floor (sans pedal stop) and had full travel to WOT. Finally nice to be able to stretch out my driving foot! 15 minute job...



The goal - Reliable summer driver interspersed with mechanical tinkering...
Motto - "Driving fifty in the twisties..."
On Mods - It's your damn car - Do what you want. Haters gonna hate...
On SUVs - Drive your B like a soccer mom is texting her friends about how she wants to kill you...
Red Betty - http://www.mgexp.com/registry/GHN5UH418165
Bart - http://www.mgexp.com/registry/GHD4U146898G

J Baz Avatar
J Baz Silver Member Jerard Basmagy
Middletown, New Jersey, USA   USA
Brian please report back in a week or two and let us know if you're still squeal free. I have tried three sets of pads so far, made everything squeaky clean and so far I have only been able to make the squeal stop for a few driving days then it rears it's ugly head. I thought I finally got it with the last set but no cigar.

In reply to # 3535385 by tnrkitect Update on the Brake Squeal issue.

SUCCESS!!! smileys with beer

Changing out pads from the generic ceramic pads included in the VB Front Brake kit (FBK100) to Wagner ThermoQuiet pads worked!

Wagner's website has a good number of tech tips including a PDF focused solely on solving brake squeal. It gives a number of tips including, on how to clean your rotors, proper install, and proper bedding in technique.

I followed those to a T when I changed the pads (getting pretty good with the job, even though the split pins / clips are still a pain) and took it out for a test drive / bedding in drive (20 complete stops from 30 mph with a 1/4 mile in between for cool down).

No. More. Squeal.
smileys with beer



jb

Too soon we get old, too late we get smart!

72MGB6275 Stevens Mark
Longbranch, Washington, USA   USA
1972 MG MGB "The Car"
Got my B back out on the road again after an 18 month absence! All I wanted to do was upgrade the stereo that was already there so I could hear it while driving. One thing lead to another, pin holes in the floorboards, Some rust clean up and interior reworking.
I also have a project! I have the 7" modern lights from my Jeep ( they fit in place on the MG) after updating the lights on the Jeep. I have a retrofit kit for HID lighting for the bulb housings. With minimal modification behind the light housing I'm confident I can make this all work and have some incredibly improved lighting for night driving!

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MG Dog Avatar
MG Dog Gerald Klida
Saint Clair Shores, MI, USA   USA
The BGT back seat challenge.

Another generation of MG participation?



“What seems to be, Is,
To those to whom it seems to be...."
William Blake


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ReggieB Avatar
ReggieB Gold Member Reg Beckett
Carstairs, Alberta, Canada   CAN
1974 MG MGB "GGB"
Put on the smoked plexiglass sun visors I got from Adrian.Easy job and I love the look.
Thanks Adrian.


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BoobooDonley Avatar
BoobooDonley Shannon Donley
Laingsburg, Michigan, USA   USA
Put a battery in and started it after 7 years of storage!!

oldredsel Avatar
oldredsel Silver Member Rick Crosby
South Dartmouth, Massachusetts, USA   USA
1959 Edsel Villager "OLD Red EDSEL"
1969 MG MGB GT "Emma"
2003 Chevrolet S10 "The S10"
2011 Subaru Forester "Mom's Princess Mobile"    & more
Well, attempted to change the original oil gauge flex hose as it was seeping ever so slightly at one of the fittings on the end. I found another original one in my "barn-o-parts" that looked great and was nice and supple. Installed it and fired it up. . . only to find it dumping oil right out of the middle of it. eye rolling smiley Guess that's why it was so supple! So I put my old one back on for now.

I did order a repop a couple of years ago from one of the usual sources, but was disappointed with the quality. (The fitting on one end instantly stripped out while installing it.) But I guess I'll have to give one another shot!

Cheers,

Rick



The journey is the destination.

Donthuis Avatar
Donthuis Don van Riet
Rijswijk, ZH, Netherlands   NLD
You need more to be sure. Just after bedding in drives squealing can still come back. My standard GB P 202 from Moss now only squeal softly after 3 or more agressive stops and revert to normal straightaway. Bedding in now completed after 1000km...

In reply to # 3535552 by J Baz Brian please report back in a week or two and let us know if you're still squeal free. I have tried three sets of pads so far, made everything squeaky clean and so far I have only been able to make the squeal stop for a few driving days then it rears it's ugly head. I thought I finally got it with the last set but no cigar.

In reply to # 3535385 by tnrkitect Update on the Brake Squeal issue.

SUCCESS!!! smileys with beer

Changing out pads from the generic ceramic pads included in the VB Front Brake kit (FBK100) to Wagner ThermoQuiet pads worked!

Wagner's website has a good number of tech tips including a PDF focused solely on solving brake squeal. It gives a number of tips including, on how to clean your rotors, proper install, and proper bedding in technique.

I followed those to a T when I changed the pads (getting pretty good with the job, even though the split pins / clips are still a pain) and took it out for a test drive / bedding in drive (20 complete stops from 30 mph with a 1/4 mile in between for cool down).

No. More. Squeal.
smileys with beer

tnrkitect Avatar
tnrkitect Silver Member L. Brian Woodroof
Huntsville, AL, USA   USA
1966 MG MGB MkI "Audrey"
1972 MG MGB
No worries, I will report back on the brakes in a few weeks, after I get it back on the road again.

I had the timing jump on me yesterday afternoon coming home from work. Turns out that the dizzy could be turned by hand and wasn't cinched down.
Was having a hard time getting the timing set back, popped the cap and realized the points were worn and pitted to boot.

ourmg Avatar
ourmg Silver Member George Heissenberger
Victor, New York, USA   USA
1973 MG MGB "Parts"
1973 MG MGB MkIII "OUR MG- The Old Girl"
2006 Mini Cooper "Greta's Mini"
2014 BMW MINI Countryman "Maxi"
Drove the B to work today! Great weather and the car is running great too.



"OUR MG" Glacier White 1973 MGB, owned since 1983. Factory hardtop. Member MG Car Club Western New York Centre
"Beer is proof God loves us and wants us to be happy" - Ben Franklin


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seadog-50 Avatar
seadog-50 Paul Steele
Adelaide S.A., Australia   AUS
1970 MG MGB MkII "MudGuts"
Put two 12 V batteries in parallel,( new high life 12V batteries are about the same size as original 6V and can fit in the battery wells ) that will give you more guarantee of cranking amps on colder days.

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