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Clutch issues in a 1979

Posted by BIGTSV 
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Thomas Veeley
USA   usa

Been working on this car, it has sat for the last year; I have done fluid changes on the motor and tranny, new plugs, wires etc. Also when I got the car the slave cylinder for the clutch was shot, replaced that and the clutch master cylinder since they both were old. I have bleed the clutch and all seems to be working however it does not seem to disengage the clutch. It does move the pivot arm and I can see that it is moving however it seems to be froze up on the inside and not allowing the clutch to disengage. So has anyone had this issue? Did you have any remedy besides doing a clutch job?

Nathan Obuch
Arlington Heights, IL, USA   usa
1977 MG MGB

Your clutch disc is probably rusted to the flywheel or rust has built up on the input shaft splines. It's common in stored cars.

Warm up the engine in neutral. Shut car off. Position car so it can safely move forward (i.e push it out on to a clear street.) Hold the clutch pedal down and keep it down throughout this procedure. Start the car in gear in 1st. Lurch around a bit and go on and off the accelerator... odds are it will come unstuck.

Good luck!

Of course, it's also possible that the throwout bearing has disintegrated, but odds are it's just a regular rusted stuck clutch.

Nathan

Thomas Veeley
USA   usa

Thats is what I was thinking, I did drive the car today in 1st gear however it did not let go as of yet, I shall repeat the procedure tomorrow!

Thanks

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Nathan Obuch
Arlington Heights, IL, USA   usa
1977 MG MGB

I suppose it's also possible that you're not getting enough travel on the clutch release arm due to air trapped in the hydraulics. If someone knows how much the travel should be, you can measure it to verify it. I'd keep trying the driving in gear technique first though. Be really rough with the accelerator; alternate between full throttle to idle... I had to go around the block a couple of times in my old Triumph and BMW 2002 to get things unstuck. Let us know what you figure out!

pirate Avatar
Clevan B
Perris, California, USA   usa
1976 MG MGB "Pirate"

Try replacing the slave cylinder rubber hose, it might be corroded inside. and not allowing the fluid to drain back.

Clay Johnston
Mt. Olive, MS, USA   usa
1972 MG MGB

You did swap the bleeder on the slave around so its on the top right? The replacements commonly come with the bleeder in the wrong port.

mac townsend Avatar
Fairfield, CA, USA   usa

In reply to a post by ClayJ You did swap the bleeder on the slave around so its on the top right? The replacements commonly come with the bleeder in the wrong port.

only if you try to bleed the clutch as though it were the brakes (push pedal, etc.)

if you push bleed to the port (push fluid into the cylinder to fill it then the line then the master), the lower position is correct for the bleeder valve.



1973 Pale Primrose Roadster. A nice 10-footer!
SUs, Datsun 5-speed
MGB Tips and Tricks: www.mgrescue.com

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johnny mango Avatar
john cooke
loxahatchee, florida, USA   usa
1971 MG MGB ""IRIS""
1978 MG MGB "EMMA"
1979 MG MGB Limited Edition (LE)

be sure that the holes in both push rods are not ovalled and that the clevis pins thru them are not worn. it takes very little motion to release the clutch, and visable wear at these points is enuff to make the clutch inoperable

Medford, NY, USA   usa

How much free pedal travel do you have prior to feeling resistance? If excessive (more than an inch or so), you probably need to sort that out first. If it is excessive, I've read that causes can be (1) air in the system, (2) wear at various places (MC clevis, slave push rod, lever fulcrum, etc.), (3) too short a slave push rod (should be 3.25"winking smiley, or (4)a bent lever.

I'm a novice to the Midget, and I'm currently going through a sloppy clutch pedal diagnosis on my 1976 Midget, prior to taking on a full clutch job and sharing what I've learned so far.

BumbleB74 Avatar
William Milholen
Tidewater VA, USA   usa

Thomas.....welcome to a great site! Hope you stick around a while.



1974-1/2 Roadster, "Bumble Bee", Corvette Yellow - in shambles, wire wheels
1976 Roadster, un-named, Sandglow - "driver" condition (stock + 32/36 Weber DGEV, cast iron header, 25D distributor), bolt on wheels

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