MG Experience Forums - T-Series & Prewar Forum

Short notice MA car show tomorrow, May 19 (1 reply)

spikemichael — Sat, 18 May 2013 23:30:53 -0500

Super Short notice but the Mass Bay Community College (the Ashland Campus) is having a car show tomorrow, $10 entry, free for spectators. My son takes automotive mechanical engineering there and tells me that the majoruity of the student body has no idea what an MG is.

Is anyone available to descend on the school tomorrow, Sunday May 19 from 8:30 to 2??

I'll be there with my B.

MG TC Backfire Problem (2 replies)

mcdd001 — Sat, 18 May 2013 15:51:30 -0500

Hi guys, car starts fine, idles nicely but as soon as I press the accelerator, the car backfires (in the exhaust). I have balanced the carbs and checked the fuel air mixture; replaced the condenser; replaced the coil; checked the static timing and replaced the points; checked, cleaned and gapped the plugs. The only thing I have not replaced is the spark plugs leads. The car developed hot start issues late last summer (hence why I replaced the condensor - thinking it was breaking down under higher temperatures).

Other than the HT leads and the other things mentioned anybody got any other ideas. Pulled each HT lead in turn using a pair of insulated pliers,and got a shock on 3 of the 4 leads making me thing at least one lead is not providing a strong current!

Car is a 1946 MG TC

Cleaning the underside. (no replies)

oily-hands — Sat, 18 May 2013 11:46:03 -0500

The UK way.

MG TD 1951 Carb tickler issue (6 replies)

Milehigh — Sun, 19 May 2013 01:44:46 -0500

It seems my front ”tickler” is getting stuck or not rising high enough to keep fuel from spilling over on start up. I read somewhere that this tickler opening can be sealed up with JB Weld epoxy. Is that correct? They mentioned how this tickler was utilized when gas was dirty and since it's not anymore the tickler isn't really necessary. I just want to confirm this and ask if there are any other issues to consider if I was to seal it up?

Thanks in advance,
Steve in Dallas

Converting TD's to RHD (7 replies)

nebogipfel — Sat, 18 May 2013 13:27:14 -0500

Good evening all. I'm a new chap around here and am currently a classic (whispers) Lotus owner. ;)

I have a growing itch to own a T Series. I think I prefer the pre-war styling of a TC but if a nice TD came along at the right price .....

In the UK there seem to be quite a number of repatriated LHD cars and I wonder what sort of a problem conversion might present? I have welding skills and am an adequate mechanic so the job wouldn't present too much difficulty but I wonder about the availability (in the UK) and cost of the parts. I presume the major items would be pedalbox, rack and dashboard?

Any input would be appreciated, thanks.

John.

Coco Mats (no replies)

Speedy1 — Fri, 17 May 2013 15:21:36 -0500

Spotted this add in the new Herrington catalog and thought I'd share it: "The return of classic coco mats - they looked good in my 1949 MG-TD - and they still look great today. I first caught the old-car bug in the late 1950's. But it wasn't a '57 Chevy I lusted after (Well, actually I wanted one of those, too!) It was a 1949 MG-TD with red painted wire wheels, SU carbs, and red and black tweed coco mats. It took forever to go 0-60 mph, but it cornered like a go-cart compared to Detroit iron. Crude by today's standards, but it's really the car that started the sports car craze in America."

"crude?" Oh, well, and though I don't know I'm pretty sure the Coco Mats were'nt original. (Do have them on your's, LaVerne?) But a nice mention of a TD just the same.

Oil drip catch pan (1 reply)

Kaklemmer — Sat, 18 May 2013 06:09:11 -0500

I am looking for an oil drip catch pan that mounts under the rear of the engine from the bell housing bolts, to keep Diana from drooling on my driveway from the rear seal.
There seemed to be a few sources for these last year, but i cannot find any of them now; any ideas?
The one i remember seeing had a small petcock to drain off the "drippings" after a few weeks.

PM me if you have one to sell please.

thanks!!

TF Inspection (11 replies)

TxBrit — Sat, 18 May 2013 20:16:25 -0500

Y'all...A renegade from the MGB site, i.e. me, wants to buy a MG TF and I have seen one on ebay which really interests me. It is in Essex Connecticut. Is there anyone who lives near that location that would be willing to carry out a inspection for me? I would of course pay all expenses for your time and travel. Have always wanted a TF and at my age I think if I dont do it now then it will never happen. If anyone from here wants to run away to MGB site then I will be selling Old Yeller when I finally get my TF.
Cheers and would appreciate your help....Rodger

TD's in the UK (1 reply)

James-B — Thu, 16 May 2013 11:27:20 -0500

Does anyone have a record of how many TD's there are in the UK at present?

The TDs are coming! (4 replies)

McLeodsBritishCars — Thu, 16 May 2013 13:04:00 -0500

Ronnie left out this morning to Missouri to bring back two large trailers worth of TD parts. We will be inventorying them next week. If there are parts you are looking for send me a PM so I can look for it when we get the trailers in.

Totally T-Type 2 Issue 18 Published (no replies)

ttypes — Tue, 14 May 2013 07:42:41 -0500

Gentlemen,
The latest issue of the FREE MG T-Type magazine I edit, Totally T-Type 2, has this morning been published. You may read it at www.ttypes.org/ttt2

Please also see our MG T-Type Garages list and recommend a garage near you that understands your T-Series car and does good work on it! JOHN

Help! Td blubbers (2 replies)

gingan2000 — Mon, 13 May 2013 12:42:33 -0500

The TD runs and starts fine, has less than 3,000 miles on total rebuild, (cam, pistons, valves springs etc) ran fine about 3 years, then over an interval of about 50 or so miles began to blubber upon acceleration attempt. I installed new wires, new coil, had carbs rebuilt by Universirt Motors (Twist), but problem prevails. After warmup it blubbers when accelerating, much like a Volvo I had did at 14,000 feet altitude. Any ideas?

Rick

MGB wire wheels on a TD (2 replies)

nellis003 — Mon, 13 May 2013 08:23:41 -0500

Hi all,

I just bought a set of five 14" MGB wire wheels. They came with a full set of hubs, a pair of brake drums, good inner tubes, and a knockoff wrench. The seller was asking $100 for everything, so I figured it was a good buy, even if the setup won't work on my car.

I have a '53 MGTD with the stock steel wheels. Can anyone tell me if the MGB wheels will work on the TD? Can I use the MGB hubs I got with the wheels on the TD?

Thanks for any advice.

Nick

TD wheels (12 replies)

NICHOLAS40 — Sat, 18 May 2013 08:41:00 -0500

I am trying to get NEW wheels for our TD made. any one interested contact me @ n.delliponti@verizon.net. (number wanted please )

First start then..no start. Baffled. (7 replies)

dtownsend — Sat, 18 May 2013 18:48:29 -0500

Prior to first start I:
• Checked all of the wiring circuit by circuit.
• Hooked up the battery and tried the starter without the key on. Perfect.
• Put the fuel line in a can of gas (no tank yet) and turned the key on to check the new fuel pump. Perfect. No leaks, pressured right up.
• Static timed the distributor using a test lamp per the method in the book (will time with a light later).
• Pulled the choke, turned the key. pulled the starter. Came to life immediately and idled very smoothly. Shut it down, then started it up a couple of more times. Everything worked great.

Went to try one more time, pulled the starter...nothing. Not a whine, not a click, zero. Makes no sense. New starter, new cables, new wiring throughout, new solenoid. How can it go from firing right up to no starter whatsoever in a matter of minutes? The solenoid is mechanical for crying out loud.

Anyone have a similar experience or a clue where I should start looking?

Fuel Tank line Fitting needed (2 replies)

Mossback — Sat, 11 May 2013 19:03:05 -0500

I bought a TD on a lark, it has a MGA engine and I need a fitting for the fuel tank. since the fuel pump has been relocated, I don't want to cut up a new line from Moss. Anyone have a suggestion on where to get the fitting and a short chunk of line?

Cheers, Henry Morrison, Cedar Crest, NM

Needed: good TD radiator (no replies)

Zodiaco — Fri, 10 May 2013 17:37:50 -0500

All,

I am looking for a good, non leaking radiator for my 1953 TD. Please let me know what you've got.

Thank you so much!

Alex,
Del Mar, Calif.

TD wheels (3 replies)

NICHOLAS40 — Mon, 13 May 2013 16:52:28 -0500

I am going to try to get TD wheels made new, any one interested , in a set E mail me, there is a min order Nicholas

Feeling Sooooooooo relieved! (8 replies)

bobbygee — Sun, 12 May 2013 21:28:57 -0500

Just had one of those experiences that leave one feeling an enormous sense of relief - and of feeling quite lucky!

I pulled the TD out of the garage to check some things before heading up the road tomorrow for our Spring GoF.

When I was done I put the car in and had to pull back out to look at something else and from the driver's seat saw this thing sitting in the middle of the garage floor next to the drip pan. At first I had thought it was a bottle cap sitting there and didn't bother - then I figured why leave junk on the floor and got out to pick it up to toss it. Good thing that I did! It was a bolt with a big rubber bushing, I thought it might be a plug but couldn't figure out to what.

I jacked the car up & put it on jack stands and looked everywhere but couldn't find anything. I dropped it and looked under the bonnet - guess what? It was one of the three bolts that hold the steering flange coupling together. Much to my surprise I found that two of them have already fallen out there's only one left!

Here's hoping that Moss can overnight them in time for me to leave for the event by sometime around 1 or 2 tomorrow afternoon.

The thought seems melodramatic, but I could have died out there!

It's a funny feeling somewhere between, "How could I not have noticed this before? I need to check things more often." and, "Whew! Good job that I was giving the car a bit of a once-over before heading out on the road."

At any rate, it has been found and will be remedied. One more lesson in staying on top of the details with these little cars - it's easy for stuff to shake loose and not get noticed.

BobbyG

MG-TD Headlight Switch (2 replies)

gingan2000 — Thu, 09 May 2013 11:29:03 -0500

When I went to turn on my headlights, I felt an extra clunk, and what seems to be an extra click-stop. Now the headlights won't turn on; the parking lights are OK. I think the switch has gone kaput. When I restored the car in '84, I installed a new wiring harness, a cherry-wood fascia, black wrinkle on the gauge surround (except for the edges) etc. I don't remember how the light switch mounted, or whether I have to remove the whole dashboard. I am soliciting any information regarding this situation.

Rick Padilla

Looking for a TC windscreen & exhaust (2 replies)

shadowdog — Thu, 09 May 2013 08:21:07 -0500

I have a 1948 MGTC project that has almost all the parts need to get started except the windscreen and an exhaust system. Would be interested to know if someone out there has a windscreen they'd sell, even without the glass.

My email address is: jptcole@hotmail.com

Many thanks in advance!!

John

MG TD (no replies)

alfagb — Wed, 08 May 2013 05:27:05 -0500

Wanted Ammeter for 1950 TD.

MG TD (1 reply)

alfagb — Wed, 08 May 2013 12:07:13 -0500

Wanted Ammeter for 1950 MG TD.

MG TF 3-Point Seatbelts? (5 replies)

dtownsend — Fri, 10 May 2013 21:37:27 -0500

I have a friend who is interested in installing three-point belts (at the behest of his spouse) in his '55 TF. Is it even possible? His wife is of the opinion that they would be better off with no seat belts rather than just the lap belts currently installed. Anybody actually do this?

MGTD Gas cap (3 replies)

busybrit — Thu, 09 May 2013 20:31:57 -0500

Hi Guys, hope someone out there can help me out. I'm in need of an original gas cap for a TD. I had the tank cut open, sandblasted, welded up and resealed. Now it's painted, looks great,,, but in the process the gas cap got lost at the tank repair shop. Does anyone have an ole cap I can buy.

It doesn't need to look great just functional, I don't need the neck just the cap and the catch.

Thank you
Johnb

Radiator Drain Tap Came Out... how to fix? (9 replies)

abartlett — Tue, 07 May 2013 18:21:24 -0500

I've started working on my car for the first time (always paid someone else before, but that's getting too expensive and not nearly as fun). Having a good time and interesting how many things that are NOT there that should be (fuel filters in the carbs, washers for the connections to the oil filter, etc.).

My current problem: I want to flush the radiator. So, I tried to open the radiator drain tap and it promptly came out. Plus side is, the radiator is now drained. ;-)

So, what do I need to do to get the tap reattached? Any resoures anyone can point me to?

Thanks.

Tachometer install (7 replies)

Jalmonte — Wed, 08 May 2013 11:29:05 -0500

The tachometer on my TD has a bad coupling where it attaches to the generator. It works ok but it rattles enough to drive me crazy. Has anyone ever replaced one and is it difficult to do? Thanks

MG TC Ammeter (7 replies)

mcdd001 — Sat, 18 May 2013 11:35:57 -0500

Hi everyone - summer is almost here and having just finsihed get my TC ready to roll I noticed that the ammeter shows as discharging when the engine is reved up but shows as charging when the idle light comes on and the engine is ticking over. Car electrics are a weakness of mine so anybody got any ideas. I should add that the car is positive earth and the ammeter worked fine when it was put away last winter!

1952 TD for sale (6 replies)

oldtee — Wed, 08 May 2013 11:32:24 -0500

1952 MG TD. Mileage is about 65K but not sure. I bought the car a year and half ago but I am 75 and my health has taken a turn. Here is what I know about the car. It was owned by the previous owner for 40+ years with little done to it. Then about 10 years ago his wife contracted to have the car refurbished. Not sure all of what was done, but all wood was replaced, a new electrical harness was installed, interior was done, the car was painted. Engine runs well and compression is good. Transmission and clutch are good. Then the car sat for a few years when I bought it. I have replaced the bumpers, completely redone the brakes with all new parts, had the SU carbs overhauled, replaced or fixed several instruments, completely overhauled the fuel system with a new pump, hoses and had the fuel tank disassembled, cleaned and sealed. Interior is good. Things to do include fixing the top, side curtains (“fixing” is charitable. They need a lot of work.) The only major parts missing is the windshield wiper system. Comes with extra stuff, like wing lights, hub caps and crasts, etc. I drive it often. $11300. MD No checks on foreign banks.
oldtee3@gmail.com

TD warm engine start (13 replies)

Jalmonte — Wed, 08 May 2013 11:22:23 -0500

We have a 51 TD that, knock on wood, has been running very strong for over a year now. However, if I drive the car for a while and then shut it down it requires a lot of choking to restart the car. This only occurs if I leave it for about 15-20 minutes. If i leave it for a longer period of time such as an hour or two, there is no need to choke the engine. It just fires right up. If left overnight or after a few days or so, the car starts as it should by pulling out the choke. Any idea as to why it starts so hard after short stops? Thanks!

New to forum (3 replies)

scottmlp — Sat, 11 May 2013 20:56:17 -0500

Hi all,

New to the forum. I just picked up my 1951 TD this week. It was my father's first car that he bought in 1959 for $800 and was his daily driver ( in Detroit ) until 1962 when it suffered a small engine fire. Damage from the fire was repaired and the TD was parked, and shortly after, moved to Atlanta where it remained in a nice warm Georgia garage for the next 40 + years. I remeber going for a ride in it once in the early 70's but when I put her on the u-haul trailer, it was the first time she had seen sunlight in a long, long time. Amazingly the car is extremely solid with 2 surface rust spots on the right wing, the underside is perfect and all of the wood is completely clean with no rot. As far as we know the car is all original with the exception of the seats. My dad had the biscuit bench seat changed to black in the 60's and I even found an entire black interior kit from Moss that my father bought in 1981, still sealed in the bags with carpet. Not too sure what to do with her yet, I know a full restoration is out of my budget for now and with everything so orignal I'd kind of like to keep it that way, re-do the critical safety pieces and have a fun weekend runner. I just spent most of the day taking inventory of the boxes of parts and cleaning 50 years of dust of her. I took lots of pictures before I touched anything and I will be sure to post them soon. Any advice, tips, ideas etc. would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

London Roadster (10 replies)

phil sheehan — Fri, 10 May 2013 08:02:16 -0500

Hey nice people. I have just pruchased a London Roadster TD kit car.
As if the B wasn't bad enough! Does anyone know where I can get parts for this
new headache.
Thanks,
Phil Sheehan

Need some help in purchasing 1952 TD (15 replies)

Randyk1 — Fri, 10 May 2013 13:09:00 -0500

I am looking at a 52 TD and could use some help in what to look for. The car is running and he wants 9000.00 for it. Though running he says the motor needs a rebuild.
Any thoughts or help on this would be appreciated

strange change to chrono tachometer (1 reply)

Kaklemmer — Sat, 04 May 2013 22:06:49 -0500

I had an interesting, odd thing happen today. It is finally nice enough on a day I'm actually home to drive the TD to work. Set out this am, had a great ride in. everything working normally. Went out for an appointment this afternoon and noticed idle RPM dropped a little bit... as i drove further, the RPMs continued to slowly drop. Seemed to stabilize with idle now pointing slightly to the right of the clock! Turning the car off, the needle drops even more and is now pointing almost to the 6000 rpm mark. So its now reading approx 3500 RPM low. Still works just fine, moving a proportionate amount. Cable is spinning freely when unscrewed from the back of the tach... just the "rest" point of the tach is way off.

This was a recently acquired tach, i've probably driven less than 100 miles with it. Looks like it was restored.... any ideas what is going on? is the needle maybe just loose?

I also discovered today that driving a long distance with the windscreen down and a leather flight helmet and googles made me look cooler (IMHO) but now also mostly deaf in one ear :).

TD with condensor (?) problems (10 replies)

JimNH — Sun, 12 May 2013 13:37:31 -0500

I am an MGA guy - and they are similar enough that I am trying to help a friend in NH who has a TD.

He inherited the car from his dad, and is trying to get it going. Overall in very good, original condition, but he is having rough running issues:

"I am having continuing issues with “condenser type issues” – misfiring, lack of acceleration/torgue under throttle and the like. I keep replacing condensers and have even added a second condenser (at recommendation of Brit Bits) as an extra safeguard and it appears that now 2 are failing me. The car runs great for a few days, trips/outings and then this “problem” resurfaces."

I told him to proactively order a rotor cap and red rotor, points and condensor from Advanced Distributor. I have found dodgy parts for sale online, and I trust Jeff.

I will also visit him next week to see what I can figure out. Not a great description of the problem, I know - but wondered if anyone here might have an idea.

Could this be more of a fuel issue? That tends to be more likely for cars that have been sitting for a while.

JIM In NH

48 TC Gearbox parts (no replies)

IndrojitSircar — Fri, 03 May 2013 13:29:18 -0500

Greetings everyone,

I am Indrojit Sircar from India. We have a 48 MG TC with us and need some help with 2 items for our gearbox-
1). 3rd gear Pinion
2). 3rd gear sliding hub

I would be greatful if anyone could help me with these parts.

Thank you

Indrojit Sircar

email-indrojit.sircar@gmail.com

Just Had to Share (4 replies)

Yas54TF — Sat, 04 May 2013 18:37:24 -0500

Took my son Justin to meet his fiance Christina for what they call the "First Look" prior to their wedding on April 20th at a park near us in Phoenixville, PA.

propshaft help (12 replies)

Ady 100 — Tue, 07 May 2013 18:44:18 -0500

Hi all

can anyone tell me how much rotation I will get with the car parked I am getting about 30 mm rotation , the car sounds horrible going forwards .
I hope this makes sense .:S

Adrian .

1939 mgva tickford parts wanted (1 reply)

mgrp1946 — Thu, 02 May 2013 19:26:05 -0500

restoring 1939 mgva tickford need following parts;
misc. tools tool tray
rubber tool tray (to use as template)
clock hands & brass disk hands mount on
steering wheel center boss
thanks, Rick Peet mgrp46@gmail.com

TD steel wheels (5 replies)

Norm73B — Fri, 10 May 2013 21:36:32 -0500

I posted this over at the MG Experience and thought it worth while asking closer to home.

We are very close to getting our 52 on the road.
Passed the Ontario safety inspection but that noted that the original steel rims were very thin, I assume from being refinished over the years.
They passed but it was suggested newer or rebuilt would be much safer.
They said there were businesses that will separate the centre section with the bolt holes and install new/newer rims on the original centres.
Seems to make sense and would provide the safety ridge at the same time.
Has anyone heard of this? Who might do it? Has anyone experience?
Is there an alternative to this, new rims do not seem to be available from the usual suppliers and I have never seen after market wheels such as mini lite that would fit and/or look right.
In the distant past we used to break rims and centre sections apart and turn them around for the reversed wheel offset. Our dumber days, lower car speeds and less traffic.

fuel for a 54TFD (3 replies)

forda2 — Wed, 01 May 2013 17:38:54 -0500

Stock engine, what is the best fuel for it and oil? any need to add lead enhancers?

MGTF1500 wins surprise award at its 1st show! (4 replies)

Pilkie — Mon, 29 Apr 2013 12:09:38 -0500

Hi all.

I attended the Wheelnuts Classic car show at St Roses school in Stroud Gloucestershire with the MGTF1500 on sunday 28th.

An annual show I attend every year as its for a good cause.

Its the MG's 1st proper show since I finished it!

The MG attracted lots of admiring onlookers,with a possible couple interested in buying it.
"See it in cars for sale",

Had plenty of kids sitting in it having their pics taken by mum and dad.
Some onlookers couldnt believe I was letting them,or anyone for that matter sit in it! 8-)

At all shows I attend I have an open door policy to encourage the young'uns and yoof to get the classic bug!
Even some adults act like big kids and dream when allowed to sit in a classic!

There were some really nice, TR's 4,5,6's, MGB's, MGA's, MGT types,E-types,USA muscle sports,Daimler Darts,,,in fact all sorts,even a steam powered car!!

Well,,to end the day on a high,I was really chuffed,as it was awarded,

Best sports car in show! :):)

This pic was taken at the Bristol Classic car show last weekend,its 1st outing since finishing the resto.

Earth problem (7 replies)

Moe6638 — Sun, 05 May 2013 13:06:48 -0500

Hi I am hoping that someone can help me I just bought a 1951 mg mk1 Td ,vehicle started fine went onto trailer,we transported to home rolled off trailer vehicle won't start when we pull starter cable,we checked battery ok,tested the earth from the battery cleaned up,checked again still problem,can anyone suggest anything else to check any help would be great.

mg td gearbox rebuild (5 replies)

Ady 100 — Tue, 30 Apr 2013 22:32:00 -0500

Hi all

I have just bought the td and the gearbox is in bits in a box , so do I have a go at rebuilding myself or send out to be repaired .
Has any one out there rebuilt one , and if so got any information to help .
I could always go to a 5 speed gearbox ,but I would like to stay with the original and do as much as I can myself to the car .

Adrian .

Please help ID Rocker Cover (2 replies)

mgbanthony — Mon, 29 Apr 2013 17:31:51 -0500

A gentleman looking for an ID on this item

Thanks for your help.

http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?71,2350345

Uneven door gaps on a '53 TD (2 replies)

nellis003 — Thu, 25 Apr 2013 19:36:37 -0500

Hi all,

My father and I just took in a 1953 MG TD to restore and sell. The car is in pretty good condition, but one of the trouble spots is the door gaps. On both sides, PS more prominently, the doors fit well at the top front but stick out at the bottom. The hinge sides fit fine, so it seems that the doors themselves have warped over time. Pictures attached.

Is there anything we can do to fix this?

Thanks,
Nick

'53 TD Gauge restoration (4 replies)

nellis003 — Sat, 27 Apr 2013 08:55:55 -0500

Hi all,

My father and I just got a 1953 MG TD that's not running. We restore and sell collector cars, and I do mechanical work while he does interiors and brightwork. Our plan is to get the TD running and looking nice and sell it.

I wanted to know if anyone made a face kit for the gauges. The dash in general is one of the trouble areas of the car, so I'd like to see if I can get it looking good again. Any suggestions are appreciated. Pics attached.

Thanks,
Nick

I Had One 'Back In The Day' (15 replies)

OldBloke — Sat, 27 Apr 2013 19:08:44 -0500

Digging thru my files. Forgot about this one. Sold it to a guy from New Zealand. He drove it non stop to LA and put it on a boat. My kid in the pic is pushing 40 y/o.

Who makes Moss' wood parts? (4 replies)

61MGAguy — Fri, 26 Apr 2013 00:06:34 -0500

I saw a while back the name of the company who makes Moss' wood parts for the T series cars. Can some one let me know who it is and do they sell retail?

Thanks,

Ken

Lost My Cool (8 replies)

tedboi — Fri, 03 May 2013 07:47:35 -0500

1953 TD (Florida) operating temperature of 90-93 degrees C (outside temperature 83 degrees F). Flushed radiator and block,tightened fan belt, cleaned front and back of external radiator and thermostat seems to be working and pump seems ok. Ok to run without thermostat? Appreciate suggestions.

TD Dash Wiring Question (7 replies)

dtownsend — Wed, 24 Apr 2013 13:22:53 -0500

The attached diagram shows a ground wire running from the speed to the tach to a ground source then to the inspection port.

All of the dash wiring had been removed prior to my working on the car so I have nothing to go by other than than this diagram and the new harness. The harness has no provision for this instrument ground circuit, meaning I will need to fabricate it. Not a big deal - some black wire and a few terminals.

The question is how/where does it attach? Okay to simply go from one mounting post on the speedo and tach to the next (to ground the cases) then to a point under the dash?

New TF Grill (4 replies)

Paul J — Wed, 24 Apr 2013 06:23:07 -0500

Just bought this! My lucky day! PJ

Testing Tachometer and Wire? (9 replies)

abartlett — Mon, 22 Apr 2013 21:46:43 -0500

I've been looking around the internet, but obviously my search powers are weak at the moment. ;)

Anyway, can anyone point me to some good information about how to test a tachometer and test the connection from the engine to the tach? Also, general care/what to look for in a tach, would be great.

This is for a 1951 TD. The tach has never worked for as long as it has been in the family (about 27 years). I'm trying to figure out why and if it is something I can fix.

Thanks for the help!

fuel Tank cleaning (12 replies)

gwnorth — Tue, 07 May 2013 13:00:34 -0500

I have dragged my newly acquired TF1500 home Saturday and am planning a campaign to get it running. It hasn't run in 15-20 years.
Fuel tank had a dribble of skunky gas and appears to be very solid but varnish and surface rust are evident when peering in the filler hole. Since the paint is good on this car (it was in a museum), I'm looking for creative suggestions for cleaning the tank without ruining the nice red paint. How high above the bottom of the tank is the fuel line pick-up? Will the SU fuel pump tolerate upstream and downstream fuel filters?
Thanks for your input.

HIF4 carb mystery...Help (7 replies)

Mr. Barry — Wed, 24 Apr 2013 15:17:38 -0500

Helping a friend with his BGT, ('73)....He had a carb float problem, and pulled both carbs...(One float had gas in it)....Anyway, he went ahead and bought a bunch of new parts, including Viton-tipped float needles, and new floats for both carbs....(also new needle seats).
I went over and spent the better part of the day setting up the carb floats, and getting them back together....
Problem is, no fuel is getting into the float chambers, at all....
I pulled the fuel line off, and pumped fuel into a bottle....Loosened the float cover on #1, and there was no fuel in the chamber....(Facet pump is pumping o.k.)
I spent several hours getting the float level, across the body of the carb, and measured to the center of the half-moon portion of the floats....
About .02 thousanths from the bottom of the straight edge....So the mystery is , what is keeping the float from dropping, and thus , the float needle from dropping....
I have done many HIF carbs, but never had them do this...Where do we go next?
Thanks for your input.
Edward

Another Grub Screw Question (4 replies)

dtownsend — Wed, 01 May 2013 10:05:27 -0500

On the good news side of the equation, I'm nearly complete with the wiring. Most of the instrument panel is done, turn signals are all wired up and the harness(s) run out to the extremities.

On the bad news side, I discovered the grub screws to the ammeter are missing. Anyone out there provide me a size? Or, a pair if you have them.

Thanks,

Setting points help needed (11 replies)

abartlett — Thu, 25 Apr 2013 21:02:22 -0500

Okay, for those that remember, I had the issue with the car driving along nicely for 15 minutes or so, then stopping. Replaced the coil. Helped a bit, but still have the same problem.

So, I took off the distributor cap. Found where the points are. I don't see a gap... at all. I get a feeler gauge and check with the .009 blade, which I can't get between them. Actual gap called for is .010 to .012.

So, from what I've read, I'm supposed to move the stationary point by moving the base plate. It is already as far away as it can go. Do I need to replace the whole base unit? Is there some other way to move the points apart?

TF Instrument Cluster Color? (14 replies)

Paul J — Thu, 25 Apr 2013 21:27:44 -0500

I've heard various comments of what the color of the instrument cluster back plate should be on a TF and like a few other things about these cars, there doesn't seem to be a definite color they came from the factory with. My plate is covered with a black fabric and have been told it's not original! Is there someone with the correct color and if it's supposed to be painted, do we have a paint number? PJ

ordering overseas (9 replies)

C-ing is believing — Sat, 27 Apr 2013 18:33:33 -0500

Hi,
I am writing this because I have had and am likely to have a terrible time of it for a long while to come after buying parts from a specialist supplier in the UK and would like to save someone else the same misery if I can.
I paid $5000 dollars for two bolt on performance accessories for my T series car in February. The supplier stated that he had the parts in stock and would ship "3 days after my MasterCard payment cleared". After several weeks I did not receive the parts so rang the supplier. The supplier was quite shocked I believe to hear from me. He made some poor excuses about the slow delivery of the parts and promised to ship them in the next few days. That was in early March. It is now the middle of April and still no parts. I cancelled the order due to the interminable and needless delays and after consulting UK Consumer Affairs only to find that the supplier refused to acknowledge my emails and when I persisted and sent other more formal cancellations (at least 5 in total), he had the arrogance and affront to threaten me with legal action!
Now I have had to engage a solicitor over there. I would warn every one to be extremely cautious when sending money overseas, even to supposedly reputable suppliers, as this incident is indicative of what can happen. I have now lost all faith in the MG world, I know many of you will think that irrational of me, but what does one do when your trust is abused like this? The thing that I find truly numbing I that the supplier advertises the very same parts on his website as being in stock even now.
As the Americans would say, "Go figure"

TD Crankshaft (5 replies)

bobbygee — Sun, 12 May 2013 13:45:18 -0500

A friend in my club has a TD with a crack in the crankshaft and needs a new one.

Is there a substantial difference between the one that Moss offers and the one from Abingdon Spares? Moss is about $ 350 more.

Thanks,

BobbyG

MG TD pistons (1 reply)

jazzwell — Tue, 16 Apr 2013 15:11:09 -0500

G'day fellow members.
Here is a tip that may be useful. When replacing rings to your pistons, push the piston all the way through the block & install the new rings. Compress the new rings with your ring compressor & push the piston into the bore. Easy!!!

Windshield/Windscreen (1 reply)

brucemann — Mon, 15 Apr 2013 08:43:07 -0500

Does anyone have windscreen assembly instructions or know where some might exist.

Anyone need a TD-TF Brake master Cylinder? (2 replies)

61MGAguy — Fri, 19 Apr 2013 00:33:59 -0500

I know this is not the proper forum but no one has responded in the trade forum. I have a new replacement from Moss, p/n 181-195. Send me a PM if you're interested.

TD Rear Springs (11 replies)

duke48 — Sun, 14 Apr 2013 10:47:19 -0500

Has anyone rebuilt the TD rear leaf springs? Do you need to use the Moss pad sets or maybe is there some other inexpensive material that can be used?

'52 TD - Looking For Passenger Footrest (6 replies)

dtownsend — Sat, 27 Apr 2013 16:36:42 -0500

The one I have looks like someone took a big bite out of it. Not sure why the PO modified it but would like to see if anyone out there has one they'd like to part with before I order a new one from Moss.

BANJO BOLT, with flex pipe adaptor mg td 1275 (2 replies)

Ady 100 — Fri, 12 Apr 2013 07:53:20 -0500

Hi can any one tell me what thread is on the end where the flex pipe fits , so I can fit a oil pressure tester .

Adrian .

TD Seats ! (no replies)

duke48 — Wed, 10 Apr 2013 19:04:59 -0500

Need TD Seats.... any condition. I'm in New England.

TD Harness (4 replies)

duke48 — Sat, 13 Apr 2013 07:06:38 -0500

Looking for a TD Wire Harness ....new, used or abused.

Original MG workshop manuals (8 replies)

Sideshifter tricarb — Mon, 15 Apr 2013 11:01:27 -0500

I have recently acquired a few manuals and 2 are for TD and TC cars. One is a repair manual and one is a parts lists catalogue. I know what these go for on the Healey side, but I am not sure about T-Series MGs. The condition of the binders/covers is really good, but the pages have separated from the backing on the repair manual allowing the pages to be loose. You may contact me if you are interested in these 2 manuals. I also will be selling about 10-12 various Jaguar manuals including S-type, E-type and Mark 10 cars as well if there is also interest for these. Please email me at:

healey (at) hunterbane(dot) com

Oil filter adapter replacement (5 replies)

mecca — Wed, 10 Apr 2013 14:40:12 -0500

I am working on a 51 TD with the vertical oil filter. The one that was on the car is throw away cartage. Moss sells a convertion that uses a cartage. I have seen a convertion that uses a spin on filter. Does anyone know where I can get the spin on converstion?
Thank, Mark

TD RIDE (13 replies)

NICHOLAS40 — Thu, 11 Apr 2013 19:59:42 -0500

Have a 53 TD . any on know what can cause front hoping @ 45 mph. shocks just rebuilt HELP. Nicholas 813 994 7598 or n.delliponti@verizon.net]

TD Spark Plugs (9 replies)

teamgrudie — Tue, 09 Apr 2013 06:25:11 -0500

TD enthusiasts;

I need some advice on spark plugs for a TD. What is the recommended plug? Currently running NGK BP6ES.

Thanks,

John

TF 1500 block identification help (4 replies)

gwnorth — Mon, 08 Apr 2013 20:50:57 -0500

I'm looking at an MGTF 1500 and although all the engine/chassis/dumbiron numbers seem to be in sync and verify ok, I can't see any sign of the mysterious "W" cast into the block. Does anyone have a photo or good detailed description of the location of the casting "W"?
Thanks for your help.

Door Lock for a TD or any Silent Travel lock - I guess. (2 replies)

Rod782 — Fri, 19 Apr 2013 18:05:15 -0500

I have always wondered about the small slot opening on the back side of the Silent Travel door catches on my TD.

I remember seeing 40 years ago, someone had a small tab, chromed, sticking out of that slot - I think on a TC.

Did not get to ask what it was, just assumed it was a lock of some kind.

So to that end, I have been playing round with a cam to fit over a raised boss inside the door catch to stop the door handle from being opened.

I don’t profess this will be a safety latch to prevent the doors form flying open when driving. However, it may well serve that function as my doors fit rather well and I don’t think even the potholes up here in New England would cause the door to jump the latch.

If the door should fly open hitting one of those. It won’t matter very much - as I will also have been ejected from the cockpit as well. :)

The idea is really to prevent the curious kid from opening the doors and climbing inside. A worrying event I have seen when leaving the car unattended.

Don’t know what parents tell their kids these days, but it’s something I never did as a kid. I never even thought about climbing in or onto someone else’s car. Go figure.

It makes sense to me to be able to lock my car doors if I am not around. All you need do to lock the door is raise the small tab sticking out of the slot at the back of the Silent Travel unit.

This is easily done from the outside by lifting the flap on the side screen and of cause - knowing where it is?

I propose to make the cam out of brass plate - 3/8” should do it. It required a little bit of work as it needs to be small enough for the tab part to exit the cover and wide enough on the inside to make good contact with the actuator arm on the handle.

The hole will require to be countersunk on the inside of the cam pivot hole slightly, to allow for the web of the casting on the existing boss. This will be the pivot.

A wood screw will pass through the boss and cam, into the wood frame of the door and there will need to be a fiber washer under the cam piece to give the correct amount of friction so it will not vibrate and move.

My next action is to find a Metal Fabrication establishment here in Lewiston and try to beg or buy some small cutoff bits of brass plate or bar. Make the cams and have them chromed.

I retired this February and am enjoying the fun of having absolutely nothing to do all day - If I can just keep out of the way of “Her indoors” that is :)

I do not know if this is already available and I have certainly never seen or heard of it being sold. So if anyone is interested in doing something similar with their door locks. I have included some photos of what it will look like. I have whittled a wood mockup of the cam and it works a treat.

Will let you know how the real one turns out.

Rod.

Fuel Pump Issue? (18 replies)

abartlett — Sat, 27 Apr 2013 20:07:06 -0500

Okay, I'm not the most mechanically knowledgeable about cars, but willing to dive in and make a guess what is happening.

Car: '51 TD

Situation: I drive the car for 15 minutes or so and the engine shuts off. I coast to a stop and then try to restart. Nothing for a bit. I turn the key off and then back on a few times. At some point, I will hear the fuel pump run and get some gas moving. Then the car starts up.

Before I go spend several hundred for a fuel pump (I think that is the cost given a search I did earlier), how can I confirm that is the problem? What can I check/fix on the fuel pump to get it working (or is this just one of those things that has to be completely replaced).

I appreciate any advice.

Thanks.

Sacred Octagon man cave (4 replies)

rsvmgb1974 — Sun, 07 Apr 2013 07:58:38 -0500

I wonder what I was thinking when I selected these windows for the loft over my two car garage. :)

Right now the loft stores MGB and Midget parts awaiting installation on disassembled cars. It's a great place just to get away from it all.

BTW, I sold my TC about twenty years ago when we moved to Florida. Like many, I wish I had it back. What a beautiful little car. Bought it mostly in pieces, but the chassis and engine had been done. Sent the tub and fenders off to have them professionally painted at a mostly British restoration shop.

Albuquerque British Car Show April 20 (no replies)

Mossback — Sat, 06 Apr 2013 08:13:56 -0500

The British Automobile Owners Association (BAOA)
of Albuquerque proudly presents:

The BRITISH CAR ROUNDUP

To be held at the Marriot Hotel parking lot located at 2101 Louisiana Blvd., NE, Albuquerque

April 20th, 2013

10:00AM to 2:00PM
(On-site Registration begins at 9:00 AM)

All British cars and their owners are invited to participate; BAOA club membership IS NOT required

Entrance fee for all = FREE
1-3 Place trophies for Popular Choice Award Classes:
Jaguar (XK120-E) Jaguar Saloon/Modern
MGB
Other MGs
other British Cars
Triumph
Austin Healey
Best in show –3rd Trophies for Show cars of all Marques in a separate judged Category & Diamond in the Rough

For more information visit www.baoa.org or call (915) 549-6859 and ask for Steve

Ammeter, and Regulator (3 replies)

Ozzeroky — Sat, 06 Apr 2013 14:20:40 -0500

Having just become the custodian of '49 TC, I'm still in the process of ironing out the bugs. The latest glitch to raise it's head is the ammeter. I had reconditioned the generator with new field coils,(the armature tested okay on a growler) and after sorting out the polarity, the ammeter showed a charge. I took the car out for a run of 135 klm's, and the ammeter was showing a charge of 15 amps plus aprox., a bit on the high side. At the end of the run I noticed that no charge was now being shown, so assuming that either the ammeter or the regulator was playing up, I put the battery on charge; the charger seemed to indicate that the battery was fully charged, but being a non believer I left it on "just in case". I then took the car back on the return run of 135 klm's, with the ammeter registering a discharge when I used the indicators, or when the SU pump clicked on, but no charge. Back home I put the battery back on charge, with a different battery charger, and this too indicated a full battery. Has any body any ideas as to why I have a charged battery, and an ammeter only showing discharge; I assume that if a discharge is shown the ammeter must be functioning? Thanks in antisipation

Question re: TD Headlight buckets (3 replies)

rodbean — Sat, 06 Apr 2013 11:42:58 -0500

Like many sports car people I know and have known, my first sports car was an MG-TD... a 1950. It had chromed headlight buckets (that is, the whole bucket, not just the front ring) . Long before that, when I was learning to drive, my dad had a 1951 TD. It also had chromed headlight buckets. In fact, over the years, I have seen precious few TDs on which the headlight buckets were not chromed.

A friend of mine (who also started on a a TD) swears that only the 1950 TDs came with chromed headlight buckets and the 1951-1953 TDs had theirs painted.

Can someone shed light on this? .... in case I ever have to judge a concours again ;-)

Thank you for any comments.

Rod Bean

It's Never Too Early... a TC Pedal Car (2 replies)

deo-pa — Sat, 20 Apr 2013 19:31:46 -0500

Just ready for your son/daughter/grandson/grandaughter to join you in the shop. Like all LBCs it's easy to work on and in addition, no Lucas electrics!

http://harrisburg.craigslist.org/cto/3713518258.html

Dennis

TD Horn Push Set Screw Needed (10 replies)

dtownsend — Thu, 04 Apr 2013 05:05:02 -0500

Trying desperately to not buy an entire switch to get one of the set screws that holds the wiring in. The receptacle itself is in good shape, the set screw just wasn't there. Have looked at all of the usual parts suspects and even my faithful local hardware store but am unable to find a replacement.

Or, does anyone know a source.

LaVerne, Your TD, Photos Please! (18 replies)

Paul J — Fri, 05 Apr 2013 01:50:13 -0500

Sorry I hijacked Owens thread, I just got over enthused when viewing your TD! Could you show us some photos of the car? PJ

mg td xpag oil pump priming tip (1 reply)

Ady 100 — Fri, 05 Apr 2013 08:13:15 -0500

This is how me did it and this is not to say its the right way to do it .
first we filed oil filter with oil and filed the pump a much as we could , replaced the oil pipelines , filed the engine with oil , then removed the oil gauge pipe top right on our engine , put the nozzle of the oil can where the oil gauge pipe came off , next my mate turned the engine over with the starting handle as I pumped oil in with the oil can until oil came from the holes in the rockers , then turned the engine over on starter motor without the spark plus , and checked that oil again came out of the rockers job done .

it was a lot of fun to see my mate turn red the more he turned the starting handle >:D<

how they did this in the factory I don't know .

oil can was only £3 and has been useful on the car.

if you think this nuts I would like to know an easier way (and don't say get someone else to do it ):I3:

if I do a oil and filter change will I have to prime the pump again ?

pedal box shaft removal mg td (6 replies)

Ady 100 — Wed, 03 Apr 2013 21:43:53 -0500

Hi all

have any of you had a go at this if so got any tips , as it looks like a bit of a job 8-)

Look what followed me home.. (15 replies)

millhouse76 — Mon, 13 May 2013 08:20:11 -0500

Even though I have a B and a midget in various states of disrepair in the shop I couldn't pass this up. I know absolutely nothing about TD's but I had to have it. Its a 1953 MG TD with a Volvo B16 motor and gear box in it. The dash isn't original and there is a birds nest of wires but the metal is in good shape, the wood is solid, and the interior is like new. I've never owned a TD before so once I get things sorted I will have an unusual amount of questions. I will post more pictures after while.

Refurbish Dashboard (11 replies)

tedboi — Wed, 03 Apr 2013 11:40:48 -0500

Appreciate recommendations for an amateur upgrading 1953 TD dashboard , eg. refinish, fabricate or purchase (without a house mortgage)? If wood, prefer traditional look, what type of wood and finish?

Senior moments and the joys of T Type bonnets. (7 replies)

oily-hands — Tue, 02 Apr 2013 13:17:41 -0500

Temperatures here reached reasonable levels so I decided to start the TA's pre season service.

It wouldn't start so I had to push it out of the garage so I could get to both sides of the bonnet.

First side was the ignition side. Removed, cleaned & refitted the points. I had a spark when I shorted across them with a screwdriver but could only see an intermittent one when spinning the engine over. Despite this I put the cap back on and tried to start it. No joy.

Thinking the only thing left was the condenser probably not charging up properly in the short time it has when the engine is turning over, I went in search of another distributor. Found one and went back to the car to fit it. Removed the cap and noticed no rotor arm. DOH!!!

Fitted the rotor and shut the bonnet and tried to start the car. It started first time but ran really roughly. A couple of years ago it did the same and the fault was a stuck piston in the front carb, so I opened the carb side and took the air cleaners off. The carb was fine, so I checked the rear, which was also fine. While I was there I topped up the dashpot oil and shut the bonnet.

Back to the ignition side to check the plugs. The car ran fine after I connected up 1 & 2 plug leads. Double DOH!!!

It would have been so much easier to be able to see both sides at once.

Not much still to do. Fix small water leak, adjust brakes, oil change and some grease gun time and we should be good to go for another season

TD Wiper Wires Routing (4 replies)

dtownsend — Sun, 31 Mar 2013 09:51:20 -0500

Me again. Getting down the last bits of wiring and, try as I might, I am unable to find any diagram (nothing in the manual) or pictures (web search turned up nothing) that show how the wiper wires route from the harness to the motor. Keep in mind, this car was in pieces when I started to work on it so I don't have the benefit of seeing it together.

I did have success locating a great shot of the cubby door arrangement including the hinges, stop and ball catch arrangement so you guys were spared that question. Now to make a new door...

Thanks to any who respond.

SOLD XPAG spark plug wire holder (8 replies)

farmer bob — Tue, 02 Apr 2013 12:15:24 -0500

SOLD thank you.

1952 MG TD (6 replies)

Metman61 — Sat, 30 Mar 2013 22:17:53 -0500

Hi all just got a 1952 MG TD found in a storage for 33 years looking forward on getting it back on the road hope I can get some help with it here Thanks to all in advance Al

mg td rocker assembly update (1 reply)

Ady 100 — Fri, 29 Mar 2013 05:47:34 -0500

here are some pictures of the shims to go under the rocker support brackets , they are about 1.5 mm thick and easy to fit , however at £25 are they value for money , as with a little time you could make your own , this is not to say that I am unhappy with them.:)

sorry about quality of the pictures they taken on cold day and no heater in the garage ::o

Bonnet rest rubber (1 reply)

Declan Burns — Thu, 28 Mar 2013 13:36:07 -0500

Hi,
I am new on this forum. I have a 1952 TD which is a rolling restauration.
Can anybody answer this question?
The bonnet rest rubber (tub to bonnet)currently being sold appears to have the wrong profile as has been discussed on other forums.
Does anybody know is there is a supplier out there who sells the correct rubber?
Regards
Declan

Bonnet wanted (3 replies)

James-B — Tue, 23 Apr 2013 18:35:09 -0500

I am in need of a bonnet for my TD 1951, I recently imported the car from California and somehow the bonnet has got lost in transit! Although it is covered on insurance it could take months as the shipping company say that they called the seller and he told them the hood was stowed away behind the back seat for safety. I am trying to explain to them that there has been a breakdown in the translation of hood and bonnet and that the bonnet will not phisically fit behing the seat!

Anyway the long and the short of it is that I need a complete bonnet, can anyone help?

By the way I am in the UK!

Tool Box Lid Question (2 replies)

dtownsend — Wed, 27 Mar 2013 19:50:27 -0500

I got nothing here. I have the lid, the box, the latches, etc. and I was able to reassemble everything but don't have a clue how the lid fastens through the four mounting holes. My inclination is small screws but would like to know, for sure, how it affixes. Screws? Brads? Rivets?

Oil filter (21 replies)

Ady 100 — Wed, 10 Apr 2013 16:36:15 -0500

hi all
today had a look at the oil filter on an mg td 1950 1275cc , the one I had to replace it with is felt , however the one that came out is a cartridge type , can I replace the cartridge with the felt one or do I need to get a cartridge one .

TD fuel tank (4 replies)

Burgman — Wed, 27 Mar 2013 10:55:12 -0500

Hi,

Newbie question? On the back side of the fuel tank near the bottom middle is a black rectangular thing with a round knob facing the ground. No electric or fuel lines attach to it. Does anyone know what it is & it's function?
Dave

Starting crank (3 replies)

farmer bob — Wed, 27 Mar 2013 09:16:31 -0500

Done.

Door piping (6 replies)

ian angus — Tue, 26 Mar 2013 12:45:19 -0500

Learned gentlemen, When fitting the piping to the doors of my 1953 TD does it go all the way around the card?. I looked at Dave D's very comprehensive picture gallery but it is not clear whether the piping continues along the bottom of the door where, I think, it might snag on the piping around the trim below the door and cause problems when shutting the doors. Your expert advice is humbly requested. Regards,Ian

TD Turn Signal Switch Mounting (8 replies)

dtownsend — Sat, 23 Mar 2013 17:55:27 -0500

On the advice of several folks here, I'm going go with both the low fuel lamp and the turn the signals on this early TD. That said, I have the bracket, the switch, the relay and the flasher. I've been able to find out where the relay and flasher mount but have been unsuccessful in locating any information on where the switch goes.

Anyone out there provide a photo or two?

Thanks,

David

TD Battery Tray Question (3 replies)

dtownsend — Thu, 21 Mar 2013 08:29:01 -0500

Seems a little silly asking this but I can't find the answer in any of the usual references. I have the wooden battery tray from Moss. Is it supposed to be painted (and, if so, what color) or left plain?