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        <title>MG Experience Forums - MGA Forum</title>
        <description>Discussions board for the classic MG MGA.</description>
        <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/list.php?2</link>
        <lastBuildDate>Thu, 20 Jun 2013 05:50:48 -0500</lastBuildDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2397751,2397751#msg-2397751</guid>
            <title>MGA Roadster? (2 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2397751,2397751#msg-2397751</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Many (many!) moons ago, I bought a topless MGA (for £7.50 I think!). On one occasion, wife, me and two 5/6 year old kids together with our dalmatian and two weeks food took the car to our boat's mooring on the Severn estuary.<br />
<br />
This car definitely had two little rear seats and a hood.<br />
<br />
However, at MGs in the Park, a survey showed that roadsters do not have rear seats or the room for two little kids. The hard tops do.<br />
<br />
Had it been decapitated some time in its life? The hood, though tatty, kept out 90% of the rain.<br />
<br />
Unfortunately, I cannot remember the registration number.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Graham Wright</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 20 Jun 2013 05:38:36 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2397694,2397694#msg-2397694</guid>
            <title>This can't be right? (1 reply)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2397694,2397694#msg-2397694</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I was having a hard time setting the choke, finding a lot of play in the choke levers. Pulled them out and this is what I found.<br />
<br />
This doesn't look right to me, but I've never worked on ANY carburetors before, much less SUs. Is this the way they're supposed to be, or do I need a new pair of levers?<br />
<br />
The head of the pin fits through the hole, it's definitely not a snug fit.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Bandersnatch</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 20 Jun 2013 02:36:29 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2397649,2397649#msg-2397649</guid>
            <title>Fuel pump problem?? (no replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2397649,2397649#msg-2397649</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Okay, so I replaced my fuel filter after my car stalled yesterday.......and when trying to start the engine afterward, I notice now that the fuel pump never stops clicking and there's not much fuel in the new filter. Can I repair my current pump, or is it new pump time? I seem to remember having the same issue with my B, and I installed a new pump.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Frank 79 Roadster</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 19 Jun 2013 22:28:49 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2397475,2397475#msg-2397475</guid>
            <title>Installing a 1600 engine in an MGA 1500 (4 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2397475,2397475#msg-2397475</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi:  I'd like to install a 1600 engine into an MGA 1500, keeping the transmission and the rest of the drive train original (1500 style).  It seems to me that I can easily do this by attaching the front mounting plate from the 1500 onto the 1600 block.  Am I missing something?<br />
<br />
Thank you]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Larrys</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 20 Jun 2013 03:07:58 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2396499,2396499#msg-2396499</guid>
            <title>windshield weather stripping/rubber (4 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2396499,2396499#msg-2396499</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ i got a restoration job in on a 1953 mga. the car was in pieces when i got it. i have it all painted and put back together EXCEPT for the windshield! i have a rubber and felt strip for the windshield frame, but im not sure how it goes. any help???]]></description>
            <dc:creator>mierautobody1</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 19 Jun 2013 23:46:39 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2396337,2396337#msg-2396337</guid>
            <title>MGA twins UK style (5 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2396337,2396337#msg-2396337</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ A well known pair in the UK.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>chormy</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 19 Jun 2013 04:34:10 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2396266,2396266#msg-2396266</guid>
            <title>Preservation Class MGA (2 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2396266,2396266#msg-2396266</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Here is a link to a Bonhams Auction last year:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.bonhams.com/auctions/20498/lot/439/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >http://www.bonhams.com/auctions/20498/lot/439/</a><br />
<br />
So everyone put down their tools (Bob - put down your clamp collection) and leave well enough alone. I guess I don't have to worry about the wrinkled nose on my car - patina, right?<br />
<br />
John]]></description>
            <dc:creator>JRSCA</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 12:48:34 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2396134,2396134#msg-2396134</guid>
            <title>Next question.. 1800 swap..??... (4 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2396134,2396134#msg-2396134</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <span style="font-size:large">What mods are required to the mga in order to use the 5 main 1800 ??...<br />
Thanks for any help !!...</span>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>PLT-1</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 15:06:07 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2395693,2395693#msg-2395693</guid>
            <title>Gen to Alternator Conversion Kit (5 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2395693,2395693#msg-2395693</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Looking for a kit to convert from Generator to Saturn Alternater.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>GILMGA</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 21:52:23 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2395646,2395646#msg-2395646</guid>
            <title>Turn signal problem...Need help! (4 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2395646,2395646#msg-2395646</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I recently noticed that my turn signal switch wasn't working, so I have replaced it...But now, I'm still not getting turn signals....<br />
My wiring has been updated, and it is all pretty fresh...The signals have worked before.<br />
I took out the switch, and put a meter on the incoming hot wire (Green/brown)....With the ignition on, there is voltage to ground ....<br />
If I short the Grn/brn wire to either of the other two wires,  (with ignition on), shouldn't one of the turn signals flash?....They are not.<br />
Where should I look for the problem?....Is there a way to test the turn signal flasher unit? (it does not click)....<br />
Thanks for suggestions...<br />
P.S.<br />
Head lights, parking lights, and stop lights, are working.<br />
Edward]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Mr. Barry</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 14:57:08 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2395567,2395567#msg-2395567</guid>
            <title>Quick question on valve adjustment (9 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2395567,2395567#msg-2395567</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi all,<br />
<br />
I'm about to &quot;adjust the valves&quot; on my 1622cc MK II. I'm trying to determine if the procedure is done on a hot engine or a cold one. Here's why...<br />
<br />
Three manuals came with my car at purchase: a Haynes, a Clymer and a reprint of the &quot;Official Workshop Manual.&quot; For the valve (rocker) clearance, one says 0.015 cold, one just says 0.015 without specifying, and one says 0.017 hot without any mention of cold. Watching the John Twist video linked on Barney's site, I'm pretty sure he says &quot;hot&quot; (up around the 5:00 min mark).<br />
<br />
I can do it either way, but would like to get the &quot;true skinny&quot; on the matter. <br />
<br />
How say you?<br />
<br />
Thanks!<br />
<br />
JT]]></description>
            <dc:creator>CameronCat</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 19 Jun 2013 20:19:07 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2395499,2395499#msg-2395499</guid>
            <title>NAMGAR GT-39 in 2014 announced (4 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2395499,2395499#msg-2395499</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi Everyone,<br />
<br />
NAMGAR announced during the banquet at GT-38 that the next GT will be in Canada's Capital, Ottawa, Ontario. It has been 7 years since a GT was held in Canada, the last time being GT-32 in Whistler, BC.<br />
See the article on www.namgar.com, and the link at the end of the article to the GT-39 web site which went live today.<br />
<br />
The CCMGC in Vancouver have also announced that they will be running a NAMGAR Regional Event - Cruise to the Capital. This is a drive from Victoria, BC, to Ottawa, and MGAs, Magnettes and other British cars can join the group as it crosses the country. <br />
Initially it will follow a route through Canada, and then drop down into the US just before the Great Lakes. More information will be made available as the event details are firmed up. If you would like to be added to an email list to receive info on this drive, send an email to <a href="mailto:&#67;&#50;&#67;&#64;&#110;&#97;&#109;&#103;&#97;&#114;&#46;&#99;&#111;&#109;">&#67;&#50;&#67;&#64;&#110;&#97;&#109;&#103;&#97;&#114;&#46;&#99;&#111;&#109;</a>.<br />
<br />
Peter.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>bikermga</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 19 Jun 2013 16:54:45 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2395471,2395471#msg-2395471</guid>
            <title>Inner sils (3 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2395471,2395471#msg-2395471</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ There is a piece of metal previous owner installed just behind the front splash guard at the bottom of the sil. Is this factory. I don't remember seeing this on other cars?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>msouza2</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 04:27:53 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2395453,2395453#msg-2395453</guid>
            <title>SU fuel pump (1 reply)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2395453,2395453#msg-2395453</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I've got a little problem with my fuel pump. I picked this up off of fleabay (first problem). It was advertised as a rebuilt unit and had the blue SU tape around the body. I get around to cranking over the car for the first time yesterday and the fuel pump isn't working. Ticking fine but not pumping. It turns out that the spring under the inlet valve is missing. Does anyone have the dimensions and specifications for this spring? I mainly buy from SF but it doesn't look like they carry it. Thanks all]]></description>
            <dc:creator>68BULLITTbuilder</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 17 Jun 2013 15:21:21 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2395154,2395154#msg-2395154</guid>
            <title>A sighting in Old Montreal (no replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2395154,2395154#msg-2395154</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I'm staying in Montreal for a couple of days with my wife for our 30th Anniversary. We are Vieux Montreal and I saw a beautiful black MGA parked near our hotel yesterday morning. There was also a nice red B parked behind our hotel.<br />
I was wondering if it belongs to anyone here.<br />
Philip]]></description>
            <dc:creator>taskadog</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 17 Jun 2013 06:20:56 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2395111,2395111#msg-2395111</guid>
            <title>Kilometer Speedometer Needed (5 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2395111,2395111#msg-2395111</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Anyone know of a source for a kilometer MGA speedo?...I know they can be converted, but there are difficulties with the odo, so prefer an original.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>mgainaussie</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 19 Jun 2013 04:38:24 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2394659,2394659#msg-2394659</guid>
            <title>2 tone Coupes (18 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2394659,2394659#msg-2394659</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I picked up a 1992 British car magazine that had a picture of a red coupe with a white top!<br />
It was an issue on MGA's comparing models.<br />
<br />
Anyone see one in person or have pictures?<br />
<br />
Comments?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>59mga coupe</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 17:10:20 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2394574,2394574#msg-2394574</guid>
            <title>Indicator (turn signal) problem (2 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2394574,2394574#msg-2394574</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ On a short drive yesterday the right front indicator on my 1500 stopped working. My first thought was that one filament in the bulb had blown, so checked the bulb - both filaments OK.<br />
So next thought was a bad ground. Cleaned up the contact area, but still did not work. <br />
Swapped the bulb with the one on the left and it worked in the left side, but the right side still did not work. The side light works on the right.<br />
The indicator dash bulb also does not flash when indicating to the right.<br />
So could it be the relay? If so, why only one side affected? (Have read the full page on the MGA Guru site, but the problem described there does not seem to be the same as my problem).<br />
Or could a fault in the right rear be manifesting itself at the front?<br />
Any theories, or actual tales of solving this, would be appreciated.<br />
Peter.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>bikermga</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 17 Jun 2013 14:12:21 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2394376,2394376#msg-2394376</guid>
            <title>New Owner MGA Parts list (8 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2394376,2394376#msg-2394376</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <span style="font-size:large">Hello,  We just got our 59' coupe and we love it !  I am interested in a few parts and information.  <br />
1.I need a single screw for my outside passenger door handle.<br />
2. I think I need a starter as even with 12 volts she only starts with a jump.<br />
3. I need window regulators<br />
4. I need info on the correct disc brake conversion parts.<br />
5. I need a passenger vent window glass.<br />
<br />
 That's what we have learned so far, she's a great looking little car and we want to get her squared away.  Thank you for any help or advice !:)-D...</span>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>PLT-1</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 16 Jun 2013 20:26:18 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2394251,2394251#msg-2394251</guid>
            <title>&amp;quot;The Gauge Shop&amp;quot; Kent, UK, anyone dealt with them? (7 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2394251,2394251#msg-2394251</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi all, posting this on behalf of a friend who runs the local MG Workshops, sometime ago he sent a few MGA gauges to &quot;The Gauge Shop&quot; in Kent, England for restoration. He paid for some of the work in advance ($500.00) and then sent three Jaeger fuel gauges to have them rebuilt. This was some months ago and he cannot get any responses to emails or phone messages left on landline or mobile. Does any one know of this company or had any recent dealings? I sent them an email a week ago and have not had a response either.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>AndrewOZ</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 17 Jun 2013 04:21:57 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2394143,2394143#msg-2394143</guid>
            <title>MGA Alloy Body Parts..??... (2 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2394143,2394143#msg-2394143</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Is it possible my 1959 MGA has aluminum body parts?  My wife and I walked around the car with our magnetized paint gauges and it appears to us that the hood, trunk and doors are aluminum ??  It looks like the doors are skinned in aluminum.  Thanks for any help or advice...]]></description>
            <dc:creator>PLT-1</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 16 Jun 2013 05:48:03 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2393911,2393911#msg-2393911</guid>
            <title>Tires - new and repair? (5 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2393911,2393911#msg-2393911</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I got my first flat today while taking the MGA for a wash at the local car wash (hand wash facility).<br />
<br />
Turns out it was a nail that punctured the tire and (unknown to me?) the tube inside of it.  I thought my tires were tubeless...<br />
<br />
Anyway long story short -- the local tire shop has ordered a new tube and will install it on Monday.  They recommended plugging/patching the tire as it is right now in the area of the nail (it was a very small nail).<br />
<br />
My question is -- should I not patch the tire since the patch/plug may rub inside the tire against the new tube?  What is a recommendation from the experts here?<br />
<br />
Separately, looking for new tires -- anybody have experience with these at TireRack:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Classic&amp;tireModel=All+Season&amp;partnum=68TR5CAS&amp;vehicleSearch=false&amp;fromCompare1=yes" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Classic&amp;tireModel=All+Season&amp;partnum=68TR5CAS&amp;vehicleSearch=false&amp;fromCompare1=yes</a><br />
<br />
I only see one option in 165R15 which is what I have on the car...any other recommendations?<br />
<br />
Thanks.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dantm</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 15 Jun 2013 23:04:08 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2393736,2393736#msg-2393736</guid>
            <title>Timing (2 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2393736,2393736#msg-2393736</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hey guys got one more question for ya. Got my vacuum unit installed now I need to set the timing it's out just enough that my vernier adjustment isn't enough to set it. My question is does the pinch clamp and the two bolts need to be loosened or just the pinch clamp. And do you turn the dizzy clockwise or counter clockwise to advance the timing. Thanks again Chris]]></description>
            <dc:creator>catfish</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 15 Jun 2013 11:39:25 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2393724,2393724#msg-2393724</guid>
            <title>GT-38 Reviews and Pictures (12 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2393724,2393724#msg-2393724</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ The Thursday trip to the Diamondback Route and photographer Blind Kenny was attended by about 20 cars.  Blind Kenny's pictures are posted at:  <a href="http://blindkenny.photoreflect.com/store/ThumbPage.aspx?e=8965566&amp;g=1VLV008D02" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >GT-38  Diamondback</a>.  Be sure to check all the pages.<br />
<br />
Our small organizing group of 5 were kept pretty busy.  Unfortuantely, we didn't get to do any of the drives or rally with the group. I think almost everyone had a good time. It was good to identify and meet some of the MGE guys.  Sorry I missed the Lunch. I am really looking forward to GT-39 in Ottawa where I will have no duties or responsibilities. <br />
<br />
Let us know what you liked and didn't like about GT-38.<br />
<br />
Jim]]></description>
            <dc:creator>liledoun</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 10:22:07 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2393596,2393596#msg-2393596</guid>
            <title>Sports Windscreen Template (2 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2393596,2393596#msg-2393596</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I was wondering if anyone knows where I might find a MGA Sports windscreen template. I know that you can buy then on eBay but I think it would be fun to make it myself.<br />
Thanks,<br />
Scott]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jsthomps</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 15 Jun 2013 09:06:43 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2393588,2393588#msg-2393588</guid>
            <title>EDIT: Bidding closing  soon, input needed :) (7 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2393588,2393588#msg-2393588</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hello,<br />
<br />
New member looking at a MGA on ebay and would appreciate your opinions. I'm not looking for a all original show car, but something to drive and enjoy. It is advertised as a 59 Red Roadster 1500, but the car number is HMR43/66021 which I believe makes it born a white coupe. I can post the auction link if anyone wants it.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>ROTCatCU</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 15 Jun 2013 22:47:16 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2393459,2393459#msg-2393459</guid>
            <title>Brake Drum color (10 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2393459,2393459#msg-2393459</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ So, I'm not planning to make my MGA a concours car, by any means, but I would like it to be more or less original.  I read that the rear brake drums on a wire wheel car should be painted body color.  Is that true?  What about the calipers on the front wheels?  I will retrace my reading, but if someone knows for absolutely sure, I'll take that.  Thanks.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Frank 79 Roadster</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 19 Jun 2013 13:20:38 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2393352,2393352#msg-2393352</guid>
            <title>mga mk2 master cylinder (3 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2393352,2393352#msg-2393352</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ To build or not to build that is the question. <br />
<br />
Is it better to buy a new one or send my old one out for sleeving. Mine has a few tiny pits that you can barely see.<br />
<br />
If i do need to buy one who makes a good one]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Weatherby5</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 15 Jun 2013 09:40:02 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2393161,2393161#msg-2393161</guid>
            <title>Removing Adhesive from Paint Safely (7 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2393161,2393161#msg-2393161</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I would like to remove the Black Vinyl from the top of the dash as I prefer the Painted look. Can anyone suggest a solvent that will remove the adhesive without ruining the paint underneath?<br />
Thanks,<br />
Scott]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jsthomps</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 07:01:27 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2392800,2392800#msg-2392800</guid>
            <title>Any suggestions for front suspension improvements for a 1500? (15 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2392800,2392800#msg-2392800</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ After driving in the NC mountains, I really realize I need to make some improvements!<br />
Only going to drive twisty highways from now on.  :)<br />
<br />
What a blast coming originally from Miami.<br />
<br />
Any suggestions and pictures would be helpful.<br />
<br />
Best sway bar?<br />
Where to buy?<br />
<br />
My bushings are good but willing to replace.<br />
<br />
ANY suggestions?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>59mga coupe</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 15 Jun 2013 00:23:53 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2392532,2392532#msg-2392532</guid>
            <title>Capacitor  Test (6 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2392532,2392532#msg-2392532</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Do I have a bad or failing capacitor?<br />
<br />
A few weeks ago, I was chasing a misfire and was running out of options so I was moved to swap out my capacitor.  Only problem was that it made no difference.  I had two capacitors.  Were they good or were both bad?  <br />
<br />
I went to steal a capacitor from my nemesis, but he had converted to electronic ignition.  But he was kind enough to show me the trick demonstrated in this video.    <br />
<br />
<br/><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/FxD1OpPQaS0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350"></embed><br/><br />
<br />
Both of my capacitors passed the test, but one seemed to be better that the other, so that went back into the car.<br />
<br />
I set the multimeter to the 200K or the 2M Ohm settings.   If I kept the probes on, the reading kept getting higher until it went to 1<br />
<br />
I also kept my fingers off of the probes as I did the testing, preferring to lay the capacitors on a non conducting firm surface. <br />
<br />
I think the theory is that the capacitor charges up from the battery in the multimeter.  And if it holds the charge, it is theoretically good.  <br />
<br />
Not perfect perhaps, but better than nothing.  <br />
<br />
Does anyone have a better test for these capacitors?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Blueosprey90</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 16 Jun 2013 19:49:43 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2392251,2392251#msg-2392251</guid>
            <title>Sutty tire pump (1 reply)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2392251,2392251#msg-2392251</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Does anyone know of an original Sutty tire pump for sale?<br />
<br />
Thanks...Tom]]></description>
            <dc:creator>tebishop</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 13 Jun 2013 20:25:50 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2392081,2392081#msg-2392081</guid>
            <title>Vacuum unit (4 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2392081,2392081#msg-2392081</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hello everyone does anyone know if you need to remove the distributor to replace the vacuum unit.  Thanks Chris]]></description>
            <dc:creator>catfish</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 13 Jun 2013 17:25:17 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2391917,2391917#msg-2391917</guid>
            <title>floorboards versus tunnel orientation: reassembly. (14 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2391917,2391917#msg-2391917</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Am I to understand this properly:<br />
<br />
1. The rear heel-board, then the rear tunnel (smaller) section...okay, got that. Then, the rest of the larger tunnel?<br />
<br />
And, 2. Am I doing myself a large disservice by installing the tunnels and the floors before I have propshaft and gear box installed, or just a minor inconvenience?<br />
<br />
<br />
Thank you all and good Morning.<br />
<br />
Landon]]></description>
            <dc:creator>hunts</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 14 Jun 2013 13:22:27 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2391570,2391570#msg-2391570</guid>
            <title>Engine Break In: Running Rich (6 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2391570,2391570#msg-2391570</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I desperately want to break in my rebuilt engine while the weather is nice. ...but the only working carbs I have are pretty worn and they can't be tuned lean (currently set to 6 flats). Bad idea to start driving it?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>zman4011</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 13 Jun 2013 13:26:57 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2391548,2391548#msg-2391548</guid>
            <title>Rear Axle Oil Fill (12 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2391548,2391548#msg-2391548</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I'm not seeing anything on oil changes for MGA rear axle. <br />
<br />
I believe I use 90 wt. OK<br />
<br />
I see a slotted fill cap on top of axle. OK<br />
<br />
Oil drain plug on bottom of pumpkin. OK<br />
<br />
How much do I add?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Jim Sutch</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 15 Jun 2013 12:50:18 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2391438,2391438#msg-2391438</guid>
            <title>Heres a chance to do some real good for an MGE family in need :) (no replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2391438,2391438#msg-2391438</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Over on the MGB Forum, the daughter of one of our members is going through a tough time medically. <br />
<br />
She and her paratrooper husband are wading through the red tape and expense of getting her some very specialized treatment.<br />
<br />
Read the thread, see what a great community of enthusiasts this is, and see if you can help a little, too. (tu)<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2390084,page=1" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2390084,page=1</a>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>200mph</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 12 Jun 2013 14:57:15 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2390923,2390923#msg-2390923</guid>
            <title>Replacing head gasket,...how to clean old residue from head &amp;amp; block (7 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2390923,2390923#msg-2390923</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ OK,....I am replacing my leaking head gasket.  The engine didn't have but a few miles on it since a full rebuild,..but the head gasket was leaking oil so I am replacing teh gasket.<br />
<br />
The prior gasket was installed using a glue.  Now there is residue from the glue on the head and the block surface.  It is very sticky.<br />
<br />
What is the best way to clean this residue from the head and block in preperation for the new gasket?  <br />
<br />
Thanks in advance,<br />
Danny]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dltalfa</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 13 Jun 2013 14:47:05 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2390189,2390189#msg-2390189</guid>
            <title>Rocker panels , Rear dog legs and front bottom fender repairs (5 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2390189,2390189#msg-2390189</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ This topic has been posted before, damn if i can find it. I am ready to order replacement repair panels. I remember reading in this forum about Moss not having the correct replacement rocker panels. Something about them being 3/8 inch to narrow. Can anyone out there recommend a vendor for rockers, dog leg and front bottom fender panels?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>msouza2</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 11 Jun 2013 14:25:41 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2390170,2390170#msg-2390170</guid>
            <title>can anyone tell me what these pistons are? (7 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2390170,2390170#msg-2390170</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I am in the process of rebuilding an early 1500 engine which I intend keeping as a spare for my 1500. Don't know anything of the history, but on tearing it down found the pistons shown in the attached photo.  Incidentally, they are 3.040&quot;ie 1622 plus .040 oversize.<br />
I would like to replace the piston rings, as I undersatand that it hasn't been used for something close to 30 years, although it gives all indications of having been rebuilt, and then stored and never run.  But I am not sure of the source of the pistons and rings.  Are they something known to the MG community, or something foreign?<br />
Not sure if anyone has any experience with overboring a 1500 block to 1622 specs either.  Has not been sleeved.  What are the chances of having thin wall cylinders?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>GNK025</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 16 Jun 2013 06:13:51 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2389956,2389956#msg-2389956</guid>
            <title>Top end noise mystery??? (11 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2389956,2389956#msg-2389956</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ RE: <b>MGA Mk II</b>: Due to a couple of valves that seemed to keep going out of adjustment quickly last season - like within 10-15 miles of driving - I replaced all the push rods, had the valve guides and rocker arms inspected (all good)and re-adjusted everything to proper clearances. However, when I accelerate I am getting a knocking noise like something is rapping metal to metal. At first it sounds like valves out of adjustment but I don't think that's it. The water pump seems solid (wobble free) and the timing chain was replaced last year, all new including the adjuster, when I installed a new 5 speed transmission. Pistons are not pitted; valves are not worn. So here's the symptoms - I accelerate in first and get the knocking at the very top end before I shift to second. The sound disappears until I get load on the motor as I get ready to shift again. Once at cruising speed the sound will quiet if I am just coasting along. When I put either load by accelerating or let my foot off the gas, I get the knocking sound again! When at idle, no noise anywhere with or without the valve cover on. Everything looks normal to the eye. My very experienced mechanic and I are stumped. ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEAS????]]></description>
            <dc:creator>mgamk2</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 15 Jun 2013 11:40:52 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2389883,2389883#msg-2389883</guid>
            <title>UGH!!!!!  Another oli leak problem,...Head related (6 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2389883,2389883#msg-2389883</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Ok,....so I've been trying to get my 1959 barn find back on the road. It's been a long road so far,..and just when I think I'm making progress,...I get a set back.<br />
<br />
To set the stage, I purchased this car from an estate.  The previous owner supposedly rebuilt the engine right before it went into hybernation for 10 years.<br />
<br />
I have finally got it running and driving and now I'm battling oil leaks.  <br />
The oil plug was leaking.  So I replaced it with a new plug and gasket,..but it still leaks just the same.<br />
<br />
I have oil slinging from the front oil seal.<br />
<br />
<b>But today,...I noticed that I have oil seeping out from between the head and block on the front right corner.leaking head gasket. I fear this may be a bad head gasket. Any thoughts?  I have never had a bad head gasket leak oil to the outside before.</b><br />
<br />
It doesn't run hot and it has good compression.  It runs good,...it's just leaking oil from between the head and block,...right front corner.<br />
<br />
Any ideas?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dltalfa</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 12 Jun 2013 05:00:09 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2389741,2389741#msg-2389741</guid>
            <title>Brake Master 1600 (1 reply)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2389741,2389741#msg-2389741</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ In looking for a new brake/clutch master I found a high top with correct metal cap on ebay from NOS Liquidators (looks like SF?)for a reasonable price. No manuf. or country of origin. Anybody have experience with this particular MC?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>MJ22</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 10 Jun 2013 17:02:27 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2389714,2389714#msg-2389714</guid>
            <title>To Trailer or Drive (17 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2389714,2389714#msg-2389714</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I'm just so conflicted.  Can't decide whether to drive to Summer Party or yank the trailer out of the woods.  I drove the back roads last year but, that was in the MGB.  This year, I want to take the A but, for numerous factors such as cockpit heat in August (black car, black interior, hot, high strung engine) time, weather, safety, and yes, the air conditioned comfort that General Motors provided in my pick-up.<br />
<br />
I guess I just hate the, &quot;Did you drive it?&quot; question.  Especially when I didn't...  <br />
<br />
So, should I flog the Twin Cam over the Appalachian Mountains in August to Michigan and back, or just suck up the subtle frowns?  And why do I even give a damm?  <br />
<br />
Conflict comes, that it could turn out to be the best weather ever seen in August (who knows anymore) or, the pure MG adventure factor left behind.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>blue64</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 12 Jun 2013 17:40:39 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2388999,2388999#msg-2388999</guid>
            <title>rear engine plate torque (3 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2388999,2388999#msg-2388999</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ My buddy has all my manuals. what is propeor toruqe for rear engine plate on MGA. im guessing 25-35ft/lbs. thanks]]></description>
            <dc:creator>wrayg</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 11 Jun 2013 14:44:45 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2388959,2388959#msg-2388959</guid>
            <title>Spin on oil leak (10 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2388959,2388959#msg-2388959</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Ok - after reading all the posts about spin on filters and messing with the spin on filter adapter without success I changed to a new adapter I had for my B-GT which is under restoration. Still no success - I am still having a slow leak. In the B-GT I used the original oil filter system and never had a leak. I am thinking about going back to the same for the A. Thoughts ?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>kwt67</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 16 Jun 2013 09:47:43 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2388863,2388863#msg-2388863</guid>
            <title>MGB engine dying on the highway? (19 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2388863,2388863#msg-2388863</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ So I took the MGA (with a 3-main MGB engine) car for a 200 mile round trip today...<br />
<br />
Running the car up to ~65 mph for an extended period (more than one hour) resulted in periodic, and increasing loss of power while under acceleration.  It felt like a misfire (which I thought initially was some form of vapor lock?) and loss of power at steady speed.  The vehicle felt like it was running very rough.<br />
<br />
One remedy was to pull over, wait a few minutes, start again and it'd resolve the problem temporarily; however the stops got more frequent to the point that every mile or so I had to stop.<br />
<br />
The other remedy which would work maybe half the time or less was to immediately release the gas pedal and let the car slow down, after which it would run smoothly again.<br />
<br />
Finally, I pulled off the highway and took back roads to the destination, running the car between 45 and 55 mph (instead of the 65+ on the highway).  This resulted in no misfires/etc.<br />
<br />
The temperatures while driving were in the 150 - 170 range with the oil pressure around 60 - 80 psi.  There was not much difference whether running at higher or lower RPM in terms of the water temp/oil pressure...<br />
<br />
Any idea what it could be?<br />
<br />
Thank you.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dantm</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 12 Jun 2013 20:11:48 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2388799,2388799#msg-2388799</guid>
            <title>oiling MGA steering rack (12 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2388799,2388799#msg-2388799</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Buttoning up the steering system on my MGA project and am uncertain as to how much 90 weight oil goes into the steering rack.   Do I fill the entire rack via the caps or just squirt some into the zirq fittings to ensure the worm gears are oiled?  I suspect if I fill the rack most of it will end up in the driveway after a while but want to check.  Thanks, Richard]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Richl705</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 11 Jun 2013 09:18:51 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2388367,2388367#msg-2388367</guid>
            <title>SU fuel pump won't tick (9 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2388367,2388367#msg-2388367</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Progress has been going well on my A. I did the first battery hookup today, and nothing caught fire. In fact, everything except the front indicators and fuel pump worked first try. Rather surprising, given the state of the wiring harness – that's another item for the to-do list.<br />
<br />
The fuel pump, however, has failed in a way that I haven't found much information about online. I cleaned the points and hooked it up to a battery, and the plunger moves, but not enough to open the points. Wedging a screwdriver in there and cycling the mechanism by hand has freed things up somewhat, but under its own power, it still doesn't get far enough to throw the points over. The pump itself looks relatively new - it's a diode-type one set up for negative earth, and is far cleaner than everything else in the vicinity, which leads me to believe that it was replaced when my father-in-law got the engine started 10 or so years ago.<br />
<br />
At this point, I'm resigned to opening it up and seeing what's wrong. Can the diaphragm stiffen with age, or is it more likely to be simply in need of a clean? Additionally, is it safe to use carb cleaner etc. on it, or is that a no-no?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>richardh</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 15 Jun 2013 11:17:51 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2388300,2388300#msg-2388300</guid>
            <title>Oil leaks (2 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2388300,2388300#msg-2388300</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Ok,..I have gotten my recent barn find up and running, driving and stopping,...finally!  LOL<br />
<br />
However, I have a couple of oil leaks that need attention.<br />
<br />
I am seeing a &quot;slinging&quot; type leak at the front.  It's not terrible, but needs attention.  When I open the hood and let it idle, you start to notice little drops, (dots), of oil start to appear on the fenders.  It looks as if the fan and / or belt may be slinging the oil in a circular motion.  There are only a couple of drops from this leak <u>under</u> that car,..but it will start to be a big mess if I drive it very long this way.<br />
<br />
I assume it is the front seal.  The engine had just been rebuilt prior to being parked for 10+ years.  Would everyone agree that it's most likely the front oil seal?  If so, any tips, tricks or surprises to be aware of?<br />
<br />
The second leak seems to be coming from the hole in the bell housing cover.  I would assume this is the rear seal.  Does this sound right? I could live with this leak easier that the one on the front,..but I'd like to get them both fixed if possible.<br />
<br />
Again,...any tips, tricks or surprises I need to be aware of in repairing these two leaks?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dltalfa</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 08 Jun 2013 21:01:42 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2388218,2388218#msg-2388218</guid>
            <title>Progress... (7 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2388218,2388218#msg-2388218</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Engine is back in and I am on 4 wheels again. Been dreaming about this day for a while...<br />
<br />
<img src="http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa323/jackalley/61478076-6E6D-46A4-B4D9-88619DB5C4D2-55166-000006141BF4C822.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa323/jackalley/704AB1E0-0F45-411A-BAF7-32F76094A865-55166-00000612AC683C75.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa323/jackalley/ABFFD11E-76FA-42EB-A1F1-7A4AE31A89DD-55166-000006129F863249.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" />]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jackalley</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 21:26:16 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2388180,2388180#msg-2388180</guid>
            <title>Long line of MGAs &amp;amp; 1 Jag. (1 reply)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2388180,2388180#msg-2388180</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Just visiting from the Midget forum. Me and my young son went out this morning to run some errands, we stopped for gas and I forgot the cap. Went back to see if we could find it and along the way we seen a line of MGAs, 6 or 7, an old Jag. sedan and a white MGA on a trailer. What a beautiful site! Patrick, my young son fell in love with MGAs after seeing the 100,000th one at the Moss open house. Maybe one day..]]></description>
            <dc:creator>James E</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 08 Jun 2013 17:34:30 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2388030,2388030#msg-2388030</guid>
            <title>Transmission leak? (6 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2388030,2388030#msg-2388030</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi All,<br />
<br />
Today while changing my oil I noticed there's a wet spot with a drop forming (I think) where the transmission meets the engine.<br />
<br />
Please see attached photo -- where the arrow points is a drop forming.<br />
<br />
What is the cause of this and any remedy?  If transmission oil, how do I check the level and maybe top it off (and with what oil?).  Would the transmission feel more notchy if low on oil?<br />
<br />
Thanks.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/603/img20130608093539575.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" />]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dantm</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 08 Jun 2013 20:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2387772,2387772#msg-2387772</guid>
            <title>1957 MGA for sale in Happy Valley, OR (3 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2387772,2387772#msg-2387772</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <a href="http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/3856730033.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/3856730033.html</a><br />
<br />
No affiliation, just posting in case someone else is interested.<br />
<br />
The first thing I'd do is lose the Weber.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Bandersnatch</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 11 Jun 2013 11:47:04 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2387761,2387761#msg-2387761</guid>
            <title>Clutch low after sitting (3 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2387761,2387761#msg-2387761</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi Everyone,<br />
<br />
I've got an interesting problem on my 1960 1600 Roadster.  Just recently, the clutch has excessive free play, so the pedal is engaging half way down, just when I start up.  Soon, the clutch is normal, with 1&quot; or so of free play.  In the beginning, until it gets going for several shifts, it grinds and won't go into reverse (so I start it in reverse, clutch in, to get out of my parking place).  <br />
<br />
I have tried pumping the clutch several times, and that seems to help, so I can start it in neutral and shift to reverse.  The shifting is somewhat crunchy in second until warm, but I think all shifting is more notchy now that this problem has started.  I checked the fluid reservoir, and it is 1/2&quot; below the neck with no change, and there is no brake fluid in my garage drip pan.  Brakes are good, except for a feeling of pulsing, like a disc warped, but it's not consistent.<br />
<br />
Master cylinder is new, in fact the second new one after removing new TRW mc and replacing with AP Caparo from Bob West.<br />
<br />
Does this mean I need to bleed the clutch, or is it a sign of something else?<br />
<br />
Thanks very much<br />
<br />
Chuck]]></description>
            <dc:creator>cgold10</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2013 02:07:25 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2387683,2387683#msg-2387683</guid>
            <title>Bumperless 1500 problem (3 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2387683,2387683#msg-2387683</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi everyone<br />
<br />
I have a simple, common problem<br />
<br />
I have de bumpered my 1500 and now have to fill the gap below the tail lights. I am struggling to find anything to fill it. Surely there must be somekind of after market item that can be added and painted? I see some poeple have made their own, is this the only way?<br />
<br />
Thanks gor any help<br />
<br />
Andy]]></description>
            <dc:creator>LutonMidget</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 08 Jun 2013 03:42:16 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2387311,2387311#msg-2387311</guid>
            <title>MGA - Alternator conversion - alternator selection (11 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2387311,2387311#msg-2387311</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I put an AC Delco unit in my car, but one of the mounting ears required some creative machining to make it fit.  <br />
<br />
I have a friend that needs to do this, but am wondering if there is a commonly available alternator that will work without having to hack/grind/file to make it fit.<br />
<br />
I don't know if he can spend the $$ on the Moss kit or a Lucas generator-looking unit.<br />
<br />
Thanks.<br />
<br />
JIM in NH]]></description>
            <dc:creator>JimNH</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 16 Jun 2013 20:34:19 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2387164,2387164#msg-2387164</guid>
            <title>Aussie Hardtop Story 2 (1 reply)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2387164,2387164#msg-2387164</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Bugger, I forgot to attach the photos so here they are!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>AndrewOZ</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 07 Jun 2013 06:47:59 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2387156,2387156#msg-2387156</guid>
            <title>Aussie Hardtop Story (4 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2387156,2387156#msg-2387156</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ A little while back I asked my Aussie &quot;MG Experience&quot; brothers/sisters for their opinions on and experiences with hardtops. I had a good response and long story short, fellow forum member, David Lake, offered to sell me a hardtop which had sat in his dads shed for quiet a few years. The top was in pretty good shape but because I wanted to move it backwards by about 3/4&quot; to be able to use the reproduction rear clips from Todd Clarke, I had to do some &quot;reshaping&quot;!<br />
Now I've worked with a few different materials over the years but fibreglass wasn't on the list so fortunately some advice was forthcoming from fellow hardtop resurrection gurus, Ian Morris and Tony Clarke.<br />
<br />
Below are some photos of the project so far and I'll post some more as things progress]]></description>
            <dc:creator>AndrewOZ</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 07 Jun 2013 22:06:34 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2387098,2387098#msg-2387098</guid>
            <title>Need price info (8 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2387098,2387098#msg-2387098</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I have been messing with MGA's for about the last 12 years. I did post here a very few times when I first joined here four years ago.<br />
My body off full restoration is getting really close to the body back on stage.<br />
<br />
   Here is my question: I have a lot of extra parts and some one local to me is interested in them but I need some help in establishing fair value. <br />
Items I need prices for are:<br />
<br />
  A Set of roadster front fenders, some hammer and dolly work needed but probably no welding required.<br />
<br />
  A 1958 1500 frame, what minimal rust it had has been cut out and been properly repaired at a body shop before I bought my own wire feed. Please excuse my battery tray design. The paint on the frame is okay but I just put a quick coat of Tremclad on it to keep it from rusting when I ended up purchasing a project that some else decided to part with.<br />
<br />
  A rebuilt disk brake,rotor,caliper,hub, suspension,assembly.<br />
<br />
  And last, a fairly decent nose. It obviously will need some massaging, but rust is pretty minimal and even the duct panel is serviceable if perfection is not<br />
an absolute requirement.<br />
<br />
  I think I am restricted to four jpegs and computer skills are not amongst my highest levels of ability so lets see what happens.  <br />
     <br />
  Thanks , KEN]]></description>
            <dc:creator>KenL</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 10 Jun 2013 23:23:16 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2386944,2386944#msg-2386944</guid>
            <title>Grommet Placement Question (4 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2386944,2386944#msg-2386944</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Ok, I'm down to these last 2 grommets. Where were they supposed to go? I still have choke and starter cable to install.<br />
<br />
Thank you in advance, Jim]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Jim Sutch</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 07 Jun 2013 14:58:21 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2386833,2386833#msg-2386833</guid>
            <title>Flasher Confusion! Flasher Confusion! (2 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2386833,2386833#msg-2386833</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I'm connecting the wires to my flasher. I don't have a way to test just yet. And I've been told that <br />
<br />
light green goes to - P<br />
Green goes to B<br />
Green/Brn goes to L (in the middle)<br />
<br />
Problem - Here is what I see marked on the bottom of the flasher<br />
<br />
       <br />
     L<br />
   P<br />
     X<br />
<br />
Any thoughts?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Jim Sutch</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 06 Jun 2013 20:57:39 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2386354,2386354#msg-2386354</guid>
            <title>cone air filters (9 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2386354,2386354#msg-2386354</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Has anyone used the K&amp;N cone filters in their A's similar to what is run on some of the B's. I am fairly sure the back carb will work  not sure about the front.<br />
<br />
I have the body off now and can't determine if they will fit]]></description>
            <dc:creator>ldc7675</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 07 Jun 2013 09:27:49 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2386106,2386106#msg-2386106</guid>
            <title>SU Piston Drop Test (1 reply)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2386106,2386106#msg-2386106</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Here's a softball question for you. Do you perform the piston drop test with the dampers in or out? I've read both accounts online. The John Twist video appears to have them out. <br />
<br />
Second question: should the dampers have a relief hole in the top? Mine don't but when I use a pair from another set of H4's that do have them.....I get very different results with the piston drop test.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>zman4011</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 05 Jun 2013 22:14:57 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2385137,2385137#msg-2385137</guid>
            <title>Another over heating question (6 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2385137,2385137#msg-2385137</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ OK,..I'm still trying to get my &quot;barn / garage find&quot; 1959 MGA back on the road.  I have it running really well,...but it seems to be running too warm.  I have not driven it yet,..this is just from idiling in the drive way.  I have tried everything that I know.  It is running a little cooler now,...but still warmer than I'd like.  And when I switch it off,..it wants to &quot;diesel&quot;<br />
<br />
I have;<br />
<br />
Had the radiator professioanly flushed and rodded.<br />
Replaced the water pump.<br />
New 165 degree thermostat.<br />
New, correct long radiator cap.<br />
A good 50/50 mix of coolant.<br />
Installed the Victoria British fan shroud.<br />
<br />
Made sure the fan was turn correct way, (it was).<br />
Made sure the fan belt was tight, (it was).<br />
Checked the compression to rule out head gasket, (all seem within perfect range).<br />
New fan belt and hoses.<br />
<br />
When I first got her running, she would get up close to 230 degrees.<br />
Now, after about 5 - 10 minute idle it gets to 210ish.<br />
<br />
When I turn it off,...it diesels badly and you can hear the water gurgling.<br />
<br />
What am I missing?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>dltalfa</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 05 Jun 2013 07:14:08 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2385021,2385021#msg-2385021</guid>
            <title>Another - &amp;quot;Where does this wire go&amp;quot;, question. (10 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2385021,2385021#msg-2385021</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ In the photo, there are green wires with loop conectors. I believe they attach to the flasher. <br />
<br />
1. Does it matter which goes where on the flasher?<br />
<br />
I have 3 green wires. 2 solid green and 1 green/tan. (I believe)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
2. There are 2 other wires with male plugs attached shown in picture. My 2 are green/tan and  black.<br />
 (where do they attach to?)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Jim Sutch</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 05 Jun 2013 08:32:34 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2385007,2385007#msg-2385007</guid>
            <title>Carpet Source (4 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2385007,2385007#msg-2385007</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I am looking for a source for original looped carpet in roll form versus pre-cut pieces.  I would like to do my interior myself and am looking for a source of this style of carpet.  <br />
<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
Bill]]></description>
            <dc:creator>British Bill</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 08 Jun 2013 03:27:34 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2384795,2384795#msg-2384795</guid>
            <title>Tips for freeing up 'frozen' caliper bleed screws? (5 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2384795,2384795#msg-2384795</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ MGA 1600 MK2 went to bleed the brakes, both front calipers have frozen bleed screws...tried WD-40 --- no joy --- any other hints?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Mat.MK2</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 04 Jun 2013 19:00:07 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2384385,2384385#msg-2384385</guid>
            <title>Can this be saved? (31 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2384385,2384385#msg-2384385</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Since we are talking about front shrouds, I was wondering if the one on my MGA can be saved? The car was obviously hit in the front in its history. After I scraped off what seemed like 20 lbs of Bondo I was left with a pock marked (but solid) front end. <br />
<br />
Comments, suggestions?<br />
<br />
John]]></description>
            <dc:creator>JRSCA</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 21:29:37 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2384278,2384278#msg-2384278</guid>
            <title>Tonneau cover rear stud location (23 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2384278,2384278#msg-2384278</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I'm installing a Moss short tonneau cover (studs on the rear rail.) Prior to receiving the cover I had measured and marked for six studs per Barney's site. Forum research shows these instructions are from SF. The instructions from Moss show seven studs on the rail. A midline stud with three on each side. A photo with the instructions show six studs-no central stud and warns that this results in &quot;floppy corner.&quot; I realize both could be correct and I will probably use seven, since I have them. <br />
<br />
Any opinions?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Jay N</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 08 Jun 2013 14:32:34 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2384203,2384203#msg-2384203</guid>
            <title>Don't Make Me Do It (36 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2384203,2384203#msg-2384203</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Well I'm almost to the point of towing this thing to a garage for someone else to fix ......something I'm loath to do. I recently finished rebuilding my 1500 but have spent the last 6 weeks trying to get it on the road. I'm able to get a smooth idle (1000rpm) with full throttle response up to 3000 rpm......but as soon as I take it out on the road it stumbles out as soon as I approach 2500 rpms. It can barely make it up a hill.<br />
<br />
Here's what I've double and triple checked before writing this post:<br />
<br />
FUEL:<br />
<br />
1) yes there's new fuel in the tank<br />
2) I replaced the line from the tank to the pump (SU pump) and from the metal pipe to the carbs. 5/16&quot; fuel line.<br />
3) measured the fuel flow. 2.2 ppm<br />
<br />
SPARK:<br />
<br />
1) timing set to 10 BTDC statically and verified dynamically<br />
2) new distributor (Pertronix Flamethrower), coil (Pertronix), and wires (Pertronix) were installed and WORKED before the rebuild. These were purchased in October and were used until the rebuild began in November.<br />
3) generator was switched over to alternator setup (shouldn't matter.....but full disclosure here)<br />
4) tried my old points distributor and old wires.....same results<br />
5) new vacuum line (rubber vacuum line) used....no leaks. teflon taped the threads of the vacuum fitting on the carbs. verified that the timing advances upon acceleration by watching the timing mark as someone increased the throttle.<br />
6) new NGK plugs (actually used for one month before rebuild) gapped to .032 with the Pertronix dist. and .024 for points dist.<br />
<br />
MECHANICAL CONSIDERATIONS:<br />
<br />
1) Fast street cam was installed. the cam was timed but &quot;lining up the dots&quot; turned out to be as close as I could get.<br />
2) valves set to .015 cold. checked 3 times after a several heat cycles &quot;for the hell of it&quot;<br />
3) new throttle cable<br />
<br />
H4 CARBS:<br />
<br />
1) the carbs were rebuilt by someone else.....but I did have to send them back to him after I found the jets leaked a bit, the butterflies weren't seating in a similar fashion, and he forgot to install the float chamber needles (this experience will be another write-up when the rage subsides)<br />
2) float chamber screens are clean and clear.<br />
3) set mixture by setting the jet height below the bridge to .100&quot;<br />
4) float level set to 7/16&quot;....new floats<br />
5) choke slackened out....jets return to full up position<br />
6) GS needles....shoulders flush with bottom of the piston<br />
7) dashpots filled with oil (tried 20w-50 and 10w-30)<br />
8) jets centered....piston rises and falls freely with firm &quot;thunk&quot;<br />
9) carbs synced using a Unisyn<br />
10) checked for vacuum leaks around the manifold with starter fluid as well as propane<br />
11) tried leaning and richening the mixture....same problem. pulled the choke out a bit when driving.....same problem.<br />
<br />
I've checked almost everything listed above twice. I'm questioning the rebuild of the carbs......and a friend is loaning me an extra set of SU's to try tomorrow. Any thoughts?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>zman4011</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 17 Jun 2013 20:08:31 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2383967,2383967#msg-2383967</guid>
            <title>Color code old english Whitney (2 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2383967,2383967#msg-2383967</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Can anyone provide me the ral code for old english white for the MGA?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>PeterB</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 04 Jun 2013 11:50:38 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2383844,2383844#msg-2383844</guid>
            <title>Copper Oil Pressure Line Routing (4 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2383844,2383844#msg-2383844</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I just got my copper oil pressure line today. All 7 feet of it. I understand I'm supposed to coil the one end to create a cool illusion of some chemistry experiment under my hood. Ok, will do.<br />
<br />
But where exactly does the rest of the tubing route? It's a lot of tubing. P=clip placements? <br />
<br />
Just trying to do it right.<br />
<br />
Thanks,   Jim]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Jim Sutch</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 04 Jun 2013 13:36:45 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2383699,2383699#msg-2383699</guid>
            <title>Inner Fender and Shroud Repair Advice (13 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2383699,2383699#msg-2383699</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I am feeling decidedly 'chipper' after the successful repair of my front, lower inner-fender section and associated stiffening plate this past weekend, so I have decided to try and tackle what I think (or at least I hope) will be one of the more complicated parts of the body repair.  In between the inner-fender and the front shroud there is a vertical piece of metal which goes from the duct panel and arches back up and over to the rear of the inner fender.  I suspect this piece is prone to rust and many people have had to replace or repair around this area before me, so I hoping for the benefit of advice or helpful hints.<br />
<br />
What is the best way of tackling this section, plus the associated flange on the shroud?  I have seen photos (thanks to Neil and Bob to name a few) of people doing something similar but they have removed a pretty large section of the front shroud giving easy access, but I really don't want to do that.  My plan-of-action is to obviously drill out as many spot welds as I can find (preserving the inner fender section as that looks OK) but:<br />
<br />
1) Is there a logical part of that curved piece to go back to in replacing it?  It vertically spot welds to the rest of the inner-fender quite a way back but should I go all the way back there (there isn't much/any rust back past where you can see in the photo)?<br />
<br />
2) I was considering cutting the front shroud flange along the 90-degree bend and trying to form a flat-arc replacement piece to butt weld vertically in - is this logical or should I try and make a patch that goes a little way past where the bend is and shrink/stretch it to fit? The second way might be better, but the nose section is so visible on the car it sorta terrifies me :-)<br />
<br />
Any clues or general advice from those who have been here before me would be greatly appreciated.<br />
<br />
Cheers<br />
Mark]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Coxie</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 04 Jun 2013 11:09:09 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2383420,2383420#msg-2383420</guid>
            <title>Rear Brakes (5 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2383420,2383420#msg-2383420</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ What is the best orientation for this?  Bleeder straight down, to the back, or to the front.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/jackalley/media/B8E74337-D09F-408F-A1D7-DBE8616C2269-26877-000002FBD8AAA699.jpg.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" ><img src="http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa323/jackalley/B8E74337-D09F-408F-A1D7-DBE8616C2269-26877-000002FBD8AAA699.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /></a>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jackalley</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 04 Jun 2013 00:21:49 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2383415,2383415#msg-2383415</guid>
            <title>What is this... (7 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2383415,2383415#msg-2383415</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I have just one of these (that I can find).  I have pretty much accounted for all the break line connections.  Where does this go?<br />
<br />
<a href="http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/jackalley/media/D29B7A45-7691-48D6-92E7-92DA98C6CFED-26877-000002FBE5D7E222.jpg.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" ><img src="http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa323/jackalley/D29B7A45-7691-48D6-92E7-92DA98C6CFED-26877-000002FBE5D7E222.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://s1192.photobucket.com/user/jackalley/media/801AF071-408B-4F4A-90A6-827ED8976F96-26877-000002FBDF5D869D.jpg.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" ><img src="http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/aa323/jackalley/801AF071-408B-4F4A-90A6-827ED8976F96-26877-000002FBDF5D869D.jpg" class="bbcode" border="0" /></a>]]></description>
            <dc:creator>jackalley</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 03 Jun 2013 19:05:06 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2383395,2383395#msg-2383395</guid>
            <title>Tie Rod Ends (16 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2383395,2383395#msg-2383395</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I'm working on my tie rods. <br />
<br />
1. The action on the ball feels worn. How worn is too worn? There're seems to be a knuckle at the mid point of movement. Is this ok? <br />
<br />
2. When installing the boot. Do I fill it with grease? I seem to remember the boots were filled with grease. I pumped grease into zirk but it does not flow to boot. <br />
<br />
How tight should zirk be. I believe I ruined the (leather) washer by tightening too much. Also, thin metal washer under the leather one has a crack.<br />
<br />
I know what your thinking.....wait till this guy does the alignment! <br />
<br />
Thanks in advance,  Jim]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Jim Sutch</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 05 Jun 2013 20:44:34 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2383194,2383194#msg-2383194</guid>
            <title>Vacuum Advance Question (1 reply)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2383194,2383194#msg-2383194</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Just need a quick verification. What should a vacuum gauge read at idle? I found another post that mentioned 18&quot;. Any other benchmarks to follow upon acceleration?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>zman4011</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 03 Jun 2013 07:58:20 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2383043,2383043#msg-2383043</guid>
            <title>MGA Starter 'end float' --how much is OK? (2 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2383043,2383043#msg-2383043</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi everyone,<br />
I have a spare MGA starter that I would like to put in my Mk II.  It is an M35 G1, with the number 25079 stamped above (which according to Clausager in the Original MGA book suggests this is the correct number for an MGA Mk II).<br />
<br />
The starter spins easily and the bendix seems really smooth and moves easily.  Starter gear is in great shape, and brushes look good.  So far, yay on all counts.<br />
<br />
However, the shaft easily has approx 0.2&quot; of end float.   That seems excessive to me.  If anyone knows the spec for acceptable end float on one of these starters, I would appreciate any guidance.  <br />
<br />
Thanks in advance!<br />
<br />
Dan]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Danbgt</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 03 Jun 2013 17:30:20 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2383034,2383034#msg-2383034</guid>
            <title>Rubber seals for front splash panels.... (14 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2383034,2383034#msg-2383034</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I have a beautiful pair of front splash panels now currently being prepared for a coat of truck bedliner and I am wondering if there is a good source for original pattern seals to go on them. I know Moss has something but suspect it is some generic rubber strip that I have to punch holes in....Failing that, is there something similar I can find locally?<br />
Steve]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Steve B</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 06 Jun 2013 07:52:34 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2382703,2382703#msg-2382703</guid>
            <title>Flasher; ever use this one in your car? (1 reply)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2382703,2382703#msg-2382703</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Still trying to sort out my turn signals, and with all tests pointing to the old flasher as well as the Moss replacement being faulty, I went to Advance yesterday and bought this one, which is indicated for both the 1500 and 1600 MGA. My 1500 has a 1600 loom, and correct separate turn signal bulb at rear.<br />
<br />
It's designed for variable load, so that may be good. We'll see.<br />
<br />
I'm just curious if anyone has had success or failure with flashers other than Lucas or look-alike replacements.<br />
<br />
Paul]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Crowther</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 02 Jun 2013 14:42:17 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2382377,2382377#msg-2382377</guid>
            <title>SU Needle ID Help Needed (13 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2382377,2382377#msg-2382377</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I've been sorting issues with my engine and have now found that even with the carbs leaned out completely it's running extremely rich. I'll check the floats tomorrow but one thing I did check today was the needles. My needles have 071 stamped on them but I'll be darned if I can find a chart that tells me what needle I have.<br />
<br />
I bought the carbs used as the car didn't have any when I bought it (it didn't even have an engine - well, it had a 1500 Nash engine but that doesn't count). My engine guy rebuilt the carbs using a kit he bought but he can't verify that what needles the kit came with.<br />
<br />
So if anyone recognizes what needles I have I'd sure appreciate them sharing that with me. i don't have a problem buying new GS needles, but would rather not if I already have the correct needles.<br />
<br />
Thanks all.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Bandersnatch</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 04 Jun 2013 08:46:43 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2382298,2382298#msg-2382298</guid>
            <title>Turn signal problems (5 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2382298,2382298#msg-2382298</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I know this is a frequently raised topic, but after trying many things noted in the forum and on Barney's site, I'm stumped.<br />
<br />
Here's the situation:<br />
<br />
- Turn signals stopped working a couple of days ago.  No other work was performed on the car at the time.  The last task was to install a new brake light switch, but that was over a week earlier and the signals worked fine afterwards.<br />
- All other lights/electrical equipment is functioning normally<br />
- Fuses are good<br />
- I replaced the flasher units two times (both Novita/Tridon EL-13, 1 from Napa, 1 from Advance), still nothing<br />
- Did Barney's test for flasher units  (<a href="http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et104.htm" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et104.htm</a>), original flasher unit and both replacement flasher units pass the test<br />
<br />
At this point, I started using jumper wires to bypass the MGA's wiring.<br />
<br />
- Connected battery directly to X terminal on flasher unit via jumper cable<br />
- Connected l and r lamp wires from turn signal switch via jumper cable to L terminal on flasher unit, also grounded this.<br />
- Connected panel &quot;gem&quot; lamp normally, via the stock light green wire, to the flasher unit &quot;P&quot; terminal<br />
<br />
When I did this, the panel light blinked and the bulbs flashed properly as soon as I connected the battery.  I took this as a sign that the flasher unit and the panel light &amp; wiring were fine.  Now I needed to start eliminating jumpers to try to isolate the problem.<br />
<br />
Next, I kept the battery connected via the jumper, still sending 12 volts to the flasher unit, but I connected the MGA's green/brown wire to the flasher unit &quot;L&quot; terminal.  I kept the light green wire that goes to the panel light connected.  The result was a solid light on the panel constantly.  When I moved the turn signal switch, the appropriate directional light turned on, but did not blink.  The panel light stayed on constantly- regardless of whether the switch was turned left, right, or left in the center.  The only jumper connected at this point was from the &quot;X&quot; terminal on the flasher unit to the 12 volt battery.<br />
<br />
I'm completely perplexed by this.  Grounding wires look good.  Bulbs are good.  Any ideas?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>PaulM9999</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 06 Jun 2013 00:04:01 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2381970,2381970#msg-2381970</guid>
            <title>NEW 57 MGA PROJECT (9 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2381970,2381970#msg-2381970</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Guys,<br />
<br />
I recently got done rebuilding my Dad's 55 TF. Now I bought a 57 MGA for my own restoration. I relied heavily on a few restoration websites that LaVern and Dave sent me to. I was wondering if any of you know of a website that shows  an entire MGA restoration project ?<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
Mike]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Makdaddy</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 02 Jun 2013 23:24:50 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2381835,2381835#msg-2381835</guid>
            <title>Rear Suspension Too Harsh (9 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2381835,2381835#msg-2381835</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Ol' Snort is whining.<br />
<br />
I rebuilt the front suspension and now it works like it should - supple, but form over bumps; proper flex in corners. I'm happy with it (pat, pat, pat).<br />
<br />
What I'm experiencing is harshness from the rear when I go over the bumps, as if the damned things are not quite bottoming out, but it feels close enough to provide a pretty sharp vertical motion.<br />
<br />
Set up is stock and original springs. Even then they are riding a little high per Barney's measurement from the rear fender arch by about 3/4&quot; above my fingers (and I have fat finnies). Car has never been on blocks. wheels are 48-spoke Dunlop wires. Tires are 165 R15. The ugly part is I'm sitting at 320 pounds in the driver's seat. Handling in corners is as you'd expect with a fat guy driving - slight oversteer in right-handers and heavier understeer in left-handers. <br />
<br />
I've read Barney's pages and didn't find they addressed this issue (at least I didn't see it). I have no basis for comparison with other MGA's.<br />
<br />
So, supple in the front and harsh in the rear. And no, we're not talking about my latest sexual conquest.<br />
<br />
Whaddya think?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>gorgerider</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 03 Jun 2013 11:10:45 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2381605,2381605#msg-2381605</guid>
            <title>How ^%$#ed is she? (19 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2381605,2381605#msg-2381605</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Apparently a bolt wasnt fully tightened at the top of the connecting rod by the last engine builder. The grooves are on both sides of #3, and feel about 0.010&quot; deep. The pistons are 0.030&quot; over. Boring with new pistons is far out of my budget. Ive been looking at sleeving, but that still requires alot of machine work beyond what I can manage. I could bore for the sleeve, but have no way to hone.<br />
After a build that so far whatever could go wrong has, finding this has been rather heartbreaking... But at least the silver lining is, without the other problems, I would have never discovered this, and still be driving with it<br />
<br />
What are all of my options?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Slalom</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 06 Jun 2013 11:38:45 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2381477,2381477#msg-2381477</guid>
            <title>Scarborough Faire contact details (13 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2381477,2381477#msg-2381477</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Can anyone please help me with contact details for Scarborough Faire, their website doesn't seem to be working as it used to and I've had no response to an email sent to the address on that website, appreciate your help folks.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>AndrewOZ</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 07 Jun 2013 12:26:59 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2381404,2381404#msg-2381404</guid>
            <title>Roster of MGE members at GT-38 (104 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2381404,2381404#msg-2381404</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Folks,<br />
<br />
Looking through the postings on the two GT-38 topics I complied the following list of MGE members who will be there:<br />
bryant1970mgb - Bryant Aydelette<br />
59mga coupe - Tim Gaffney<br />
liledoun - Jim Ferguson<br />
Speedracer - Hap Waldrop<br />
1957mag - cliff hughes<br />
<br />
Anyone else coming?  Want to arrange a meet somewhere?  I'd like to meet you guys face to face if possible.<br />
<br />
As I said in one of the other threads, I'm driving down from NJ leaving mid-day Saturday and planning to arrive Monday night.  So far I haven't seen any evidence of other MGAs headed this way but if you are let me know.  <br />
<br />
Russ]]></description>
            <dc:creator>MGARuss</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 15 Jun 2013 20:19:50 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2380889,2380889#msg-2380889</guid>
            <title>coupe sun visor hinge (no replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2380889,2380889#msg-2380889</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ For those interested in coupe sunvisors there is a hinge on ebay at present that looks like the one used on he original visors:<br />
<a href="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;item=321129778883&amp;fromMakeTrack=true&amp;ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;item=321129778883&amp;fromMakeTrack=true&amp;ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en</a><br />
<br />
The information in the listing says they are for minis so this is another source for those interested in making their own visors.<br />
<br />
Regards,<br />
Mark]]></description>
            <dc:creator>markmga</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 31 May 2013 09:29:30 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2380887,2380887#msg-2380887</guid>
            <title>Warm Weather (11 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2380887,2380887#msg-2380887</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ This is the second year that I am having problems when the warm weather arrives. I suspected vapor lock as my 1600 A will not idle when warm or right after a re start. The spark plugs are also fouling badly. These two conditions seem un related except for tempurature. I would assume a hot carb condition would cause the engine to run lean not rich. I have pointless ignition and a 40K coil. I have opened the plug gap to .045&quot;. I have leaned the carbs all the way out. All of the electrical end is good and the valves have just been adjusted. The head was checked and valve seals replaced 10K miles ago. The car runs perfect all winter. Any thoughts or ideas?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>MGAMATT</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 04 Jun 2013 20:19:51 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2380883,2380883#msg-2380883</guid>
            <title>1961 MG_A &amp;quot;Car Port&amp;quot; Find (8 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2380883,2380883#msg-2380883</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ MG-A guys/gals,<br />
<br />
thought you would be interested in viewing this '61 A project.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/mg/a/1575052.html?refer=blog" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" >http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/mg/a/1575052.html?refer=blog</a><br />
<br />
Cheers, Al]]></description>
            <dc:creator>anagy66</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 01 Jun 2013 07:22:41 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2380312,2380312#msg-2380312</guid>
            <title>Advice on Windscreen Glass (7 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2380312,2380312#msg-2380312</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I need to replace my windscreen glass and noticed a huge difference in pricing...Moss is asking $435.90 including oversized item cost and shipping...Victoria British wants only $183.70 for the same.<br />
<br />
My questions...are these the same sheets of glass, is there another supplier I might consider and, how challenging of a project is this?<br />
<br />
Thanks for any and all advice.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>mjj3m</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 31 May 2013 13:02:13 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2380099,2380099#msg-2380099</guid>
            <title>Knock Off Tightness (17 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2380099,2380099#msg-2380099</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I doubt anyone is using a variation of a torque wrench to tighten your wire wheel knock off so this is a bit like asking &quot;how long is a piece of string.&quot;  Anyway, I removed my wire wheels today (first time since I bought the car) and had to hammer like hell to get them loose.  How tight is &quot;tight enough&quot; and how do you determine that?  I doubt it's necessary to get them as tight as they were but I also don't want to see one of them pass me on the road.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>joerberg</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 04 Jun 2013 08:08:24 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2380035,2380035#msg-2380035</guid>
            <title>What color for the 1600 gas tank? (7 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2380035,2380035#msg-2380035</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ There is already undercoating on the tank, and it has been painted &quot;almost&quot; body color...Should I repaint it body color, or , I'm considering black.<br />
Car is OE White. <br />
Thanks<br />
Edward]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Mr. Barry</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 01 Jun 2013 16:43:15 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2379847,2379847#msg-2379847</guid>
            <title>Part alert  152-220	POINT &amp;amp; CONDENSER SET (Lucas) (3 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2379847,2379847#msg-2379847</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Bought this point set from Moss  in Dec last year, just getting around  to installing them on the distributor when I noticed the condenser terminal had the wrong lug hole size. It wouldn't fit under the insulator, it fits on the stud though.  This appears to be a Lucas packaging problem and not a Moss issue. <br />
<br />
Don't even ask when I noticed it, lets just say the engine wouldn't start and a few hours later I had an eureka moment.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>ldc7675</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 06 Jun 2013 08:15:39 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2379783,2379783#msg-2379783</guid>
            <title>Non Ethanol Fuel andFuel Addatives......? (2 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2379783,2379783#msg-2379783</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Curious to know if any one has any opinions regarding avoiding street gas fuel that likely will contain 10-15% alcohol these days.<br />
<br />
I live in coastal NC and do have easy access to Marine grade &quot;non-ethanol&quot; gas.  Would you recommend this type fuel over standard street gas?<br />
<br />
Also, if you were to choose street gas, what octane would you recommend for the 1500 MGA?<br />
Would you use any lead or octane boosters?<br />
<br />
Many thanks for all your help.....Don]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Donzen</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 30 May 2013 07:48:35 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2379780,2379780#msg-2379780</guid>
            <title>Door sill suff plates for MGA (2 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2379780,2379780#msg-2379780</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Can you buy door sill scuff protectors for the MGA ? or can the plates of another model MG fit.<br />
Any info will be appreciated]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Whimaway36</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 30 May 2013 10:04:58 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2379760,2379760#msg-2379760</guid>
            <title>5 bearing crank into a 3 bearing block. (10 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2379760,2379760#msg-2379760</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Has anyone had any success with putting a 5 bearing (MGB) crankshaft into a 3 bearing MGA cylinder block..?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Mark T Boldry</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 31 May 2013 08:43:43 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2379692,2379692#msg-2379692</guid>
            <title>Form-fitted plywood at the nose of the bonnet - Question (14 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2379692,2379692#msg-2379692</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ MGA Team, <br />
I was sorting out my poor fitting bonnet latch when I noticed the piece of plywood up in the nose of the bonnet secured by two (loose) wood screws - one screw on either side of the spring/bonnet striker. Apparently this poor old piece of wood had been screwed into too many times and became unable to hold the screws securely. So I removed it, drilled out the screw holes, wood-glued in sections of dowels to complete a solid repair... followed by a coat of paint. Now, here are my questions! I assumed that this curved wood was designed in its form-fitting manner to snug up against the inside of the bonnet nose and provide reinforcement when someone is closing the bonnet - having that wood in place would keep the bonnet from buckling where a person would push on the top of the bonnet to close the hood. So my surprise, as I try to refit this piece, I see that when screwed in place it does not reach the actual aluminum creast of the bonnet. SHould I be shimming it upward inside the bonnet to get a sug fit against the bonnet aluminum? Or, is this piece offering some other structural help that is not obvious to me?<br />
THanks in advance.<br />
Tom]]></description>
            <dc:creator>tap</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 31 May 2013 08:52:23 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2379689,2379689#msg-2379689</guid>
            <title>master cylinder parts problem (5 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2379689,2379689#msg-2379689</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Wondering if anyone can help me find a source for pistons for the master cylinder.  I had a fake in mine and the other one is a little dinged up.<br />
<br />
Can't seem to find them anywhere.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>bubalew</dc:creator>
            <category>MGA Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 30 May 2013 20:39:31 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
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