MG Experience Forums - MGB & GT Forum

What do you do with your old non-OD gearbox? (1 reply)

chanson — Thu, 23 May 2013 11:20:51 -0500

After my OD installation, I now am in possession of a fine, albeit over-sized, doorstop - my old non-OD gearbox.

What do you-all do with these? It seems like a shame to scrap it. I don't want to do that.

But I sense that the market for original parts is different here in the south-florida region. I'm wondering whether I could get any more than $25. (ex: craigslist in my area right now shows a complete engine, gearbox and new clutch for under $300).

Remove the gears and synchros and save for future repairs?

State of tune & confusion (no replies)

spadpilot — Thu, 23 May 2013 11:15:54 -0500

Good Morning,
I have recently purchased a 72 roadster with what the previous owner reports to be a re-built engine (less than 200 miles on it). The problem is that the engine does not develop full power....I have sync'd and properly adjust the carbs (earlier H-4), adjusted the valves, installed a Petronix ignition and a new exhaust system. The car starts and idles very well. No problems at low speeds, however it will barely make 60 MPH...at that speed it feels as though its not getting enough fuel.

Are there any MGB gurus out there with a word of wisdom for this lost soul?

Cheers,
Spadpilot

72 MGB
73 Alfa GTY
08 C6 Corvette

4 Speed swap non-OD for a B (6 replies)

9146 — Thu, 23 May 2013 11:08:28 -0500

What years 4 speed full sync (non-OD) will fit a 78B. I think 68 and up? but how about the shifter. Also I think the early ones had a dip stick? Any one better than the other? Thanks Rick

Front Brake Conversion (5 replies)

bcodegard38 — Thu, 23 May 2013 10:12:02 -0500

I've just noticed that there is a kit one can buy that will convert an MGB from front drum brakes to front disc brakes. This should improve braking significantly. I'm curious as to whether anyone has had experience with this project. I guess I'm looking for something to do on the "B".

seat adjustment spring came off (3 replies)

tpecus — Thu, 23 May 2013 11:27:05 -0500

The seat adjustment spring on the driver's side of my MGB has come off. This is the spring that attaches to the adjustment lever that locks the seat in place. In addition to being difficult to reach under the seat, the spring is extremely hard to expand to hook back in the notch on the lever. Does anyone have a technique that has worked?

Rubber Bumper GT's (2 replies)

mgbhivejon — Thu, 23 May 2013 09:06:34 -0500

Does anyone know the number of 1974 Rubber Bumper GT's imported and what were the serial numbers especially the last car. I just picked up a one owner made in december 74,snowberry white with overdrive,completely original survivor.

Everytime I try to get out, they pull me back in again - or - my latest MGB project (8 replies)

chgrec — Thu, 23 May 2013 10:57:24 -0500

I have owned 55 cars over the last 30+ years. Many were British Leyland products and several were MGs. From a 57 MGA to 4 MGBs of various years and condition. I have been driving a BMW M roadster for the last 6 years and had no old cars in my home workshop. I was content to work on the house and do merely preventative maint. & basic break fix on our modern cars.

Then a friend told me about his 66 mustang that he had been "restoring" for 12 years. Actually it was his wife who told my wife how she wanted her parking spot back and wished her husband would finally "get that stupid car running and out of my driveway". Having restored many, many cars I agreed to do my first paid restoration project. After defining a detailed project plan and projected budget, I finished the car in 97 days. (7 days behind and $12 under budget).

I say all this to point out what brought me back into the home automotive restoration world. I didn't realize how much I really enjoyed working on old cars until I got back into it. Modern cars are nice with their fancy air conditioning, ABS & airbags but there is something so refreshing about opening a hood and actually seeing the engine, not just a bunch of engine covers or plastic.

Now onto why I am now a new member of the MG experience. After getting my workshop cleaned up and ready again, I have plunged headlong back into the British motoring world. Well, at least the British ownership world, the car doesn't "motor" much right now...

Please let me introduce what we affectionately call "The B". A 1974 MGB in what I assume is Tundra green'ish. Rough shape but very solid underneath and an amazingly low price. Since I have always learned so much from forums like this, I will endeavor to pay that forward by documenting my steps in restoration of this car. No plans on a 90 day timeline but more of a year or so, depending on the budget and the honey do list....

I look forward to what this forum can teach me and what I can in some small way contribute back to it with my experiences.

Chris

Rectangular fender washers (2 replies)

garyd — Thu, 23 May 2013 10:53:25 -0500

Anyone have the dimensions for the rectangular fender washers used on the first three bolts from the scuttle that retain the fenders to the wheel arch front assemblies? The PO replaced them with modern captured bolt-washer and I’d like to whip up a few today.

Interesting custom 'B on Ebay- does it belong to someone here? (2 replies)

DiBiaso — Thu, 23 May 2013 07:31:48 -0500

Saw this on ebay last night and have to say i like the body color front and rear bumper with the earlier style grill. Makes me think of an alternate history, where MG continued manufacturing the 'B well into the 80's. Could this have been what 1986 MGB would have looked like?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1979-MGB-Roadster-British-Racing-Green-MUST-SEE-/330927633795?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item4d0cd2f583#v4-41

Fuel pump, Original Type V Facet (9 replies)

Colinf007 — Thu, 23 May 2013 11:16:12 -0500

Hi All

What is the best punp to install The original Type or the facet type, What are the pros and cons, and does anybody have any photos of the facet pump installed in place?
thanks

1977 MGB on 25 May 2013 DC area bid was $100. (5 replies)

ChuckoldNavy53 — Thu, 23 May 2013 09:51:59 -0500

A friend sent me this on a 1977 MGB that is on auction on 25 May 2013. The auction is in the D.C. area. I'm not interested, if I brought another car home, my wife would probably kick me and the dog out of the house. But when I checked the list the bid was $100.00

http://caa.autoremarketers.com/webapp/commerce/Item.aspx?ListingId=5812796

The wheels and tires alone are worth than that. Just in case someone else is interested.

Chuck

dash crash rail removal (2 replies)

MCCT — Thu, 23 May 2013 03:17:49 -0500

I want to replace my crash rail...is it possible to do without removing the whole dash?...mine is the early metal UK dash..not the US padded one etc
thanks
Charles

'79 B Weber to HS4 conversion questions... (4 replies)

YB — Thu, 23 May 2013 09:15:39 -0500

Just want to make sure I am on the right path...

Yellow arrow..main fuel feed?

Red arrow..fuel feed to rear carb?

Blue arrow, both carbs..vent? Leave as is?

Green arrow, both carbs..hoses from engine side cover vent?

Orange arrow..vacuum pick-up?

Had water hose going to and under/thru Weber carb to heater box. Assume water line will now go under SU's to the heater box. Have seen pictures of hose going to copper or chrome pipe across valve cover. Don't think I want to do that.

Best location to mount choke pull on dash? Where does the line come thru on the firewall?

Thanks for any advice...

Green wire shorting (2 replies)

Eagle 74 BGT — Thu, 23 May 2013 04:59:04 -0500

Looking to see if anyone has had a similar issue with the Green wire blowing the fuse with a 74 GT.

Well I have been busy bringing the GT back to life and have about 75% of the systems operating. All my remaining problems are linked to the Green line for the following:

Not working are the wipers (washer works fine), heater fan motor, tachometer, fuel and temp gauges.

Working systems are brake lights, hazards, turn signals, reverse lights.

I've replaced the voltage stabilizer but have the fuze blowing when I try to attach the dual light green/green wires for the gauges.

Can you give me some pointers on where to start with this issue. From looking at the wiring diagrams I think I might have a problem at the seat belt module or gearbox switch but I don't think it should affect the gauges.

Thanks everyone.
James

how much is too much (9 replies)

robert1839 — Thu, 23 May 2013 09:19:15 -0500

how do you know you have too many projects
I have my MGB GT and my 68 MGB a go kart all in diff stages of rebuild

Rear sway bar end links (1 reply)

cdcollins1 — Wed, 22 May 2013 22:00:15 -0500

I've replaced all the bushings in the front suspension and will move to the back later this summer. What's the purpose of the end links on the rear sway bar being threaded on? Are they adjustable? What effect does adjusting them have?

battery cable (4 replies)

tom1939 — Thu, 23 May 2013 08:49:50 -0500

Looking for the routing from battery box to starter, I see some pictures that seem to show the cable in the rear plumbing ,wire run. Doesn't look big enough to me if that's it. Plumbing nearly done, wiring next.

Today's WTHeck??? (34 replies)

silverrocket — Thu, 23 May 2013 10:53:31 -0500

:S Decided it best to verify valve lash during my foray into this
project as I was able to fire it up but iit is suffering from bad
carb backfire when revving up.
The ign timing seemed fine so hey! let's pull the valve cover!
Lo and behold!!!

Let's hear the opinions

Solenoid to battery cable - Done (3 replies)

rocannon — Thu, 23 May 2013 09:00:54 -0500

Replaced the old, twice spliced, cable today. Hit the starter key and the engine leapt to life with no hesitation.

As I am used to a fairly leisurely starting sequence, this new alacrity on startup is quite nice.:D

Methinks the lights might be a bit brighter too, but that could simply be halo effect.

New and Frstrated (9 replies)

Bemis51 — Thu, 23 May 2013 11:00:31 -0500

Hi, I recently purchased a 1972 MGB with wire wheels. I have been having a great time driving it. When I purchased it, the previous owner told me the rear axle was in need of replacement and it wasn't a hard job to do.
Before taking ownership I made sure I could get a rear axle for wire wheels from a local person who has a good reputation for having used parts.

Last weekend I picked up the used axle and started to take the old one off the car. It was a little harder than I expected having to maneuver the axle around the exhaust system. Installing the replacement was just the reverse and went as I expected until I tried to connect the shock lever link to the leaf spring. It wouldn't reach the hole in the plate attached to the leaf spring. I rechecked on both sides to make sure the raised portion of the bracket with the pad was resting in the indentation on the plate welded to the axle. The order of the plates between the axle and leaf spring is bracket with pad on top of the spring with a bracket and pad under and then the bracket for the shock arm attachment. I then noticed the angle of the differential was off also. The plate where the drive shaft attaches was pointing to far down for the flanges to mate. The axle is also preventing the exhaust system from being connected to the bracket at the rear of the car.

I but the tires back on the car and took it off the jack stands to see if that would resettle the springs. It didn't work. I tried to take pictures by it is too dark right now. I know I'm doing something wrong, but can't figure it out. Any hints on where I have gone wrong would be appreciated.

David Myers

Is this a factory wheel? (3 replies)

simon1966 — Wed, 22 May 2013 23:36:01 -0500

Currently resides on a 75. Googled 75 MGB photos and looks like Rostyle was the standard then?

Overdrive rebuild?? (6 replies)

Travellerjones — Wed, 22 May 2013 19:20:52 -0500

Hi All

I've had many great answers to my questions here - so now I have a tricky (to me) one. Before I go on, please bare in mind that I've never worked on the internals of a transmission before, so my question may be obvious to some/most.

Here it is. I just bought a OD trans cheap. Its a black label with the serial 22/61972/025992 - this I believe makes it a for model around year 1973ish.

Now here is my issue. Its with the box, not the OD. Upon opening the inspection panel I found some play in the lay shaft and the #3 gear. From the 2 pictures you can see that the lay shaft can be moved about 1/8" forward. This moves the gears so that they are all in line when meshing. However when you turn the drive shaft, the lay shaft moves back and misaligns the gear wheel on #2 gear (I think) # 3 gear also moves back and forth a bit.

Is this normal, or does it require rebuilding. IF it does, is it difficult to do - can I send the gears somewhere to be done without the box??

ROCKER PEDESTAL SHIMS? (5 replies)

73BGTDC — Wed, 22 May 2013 19:51:21 -0500

Just had the head on my 73 BGT rebuilt and learned that the head is not from an '73 18V since the intake valves are 1.563“ v. 1.625” for the 18V for the 72-74 model years. Old intake valves which were replaced had the .082 narrow groove stem which should be correct for the 18GD - GH; 18V 1975-onward engines, according to Moss.

Moss catalog further shows that shims (Moss #460-255) are needed for the two center rocker pedestals for the 18GB onward engines.

It therefore seems likely that I will need to install the two shims when I reassemble the head.

Am I wrong or right, or am I missing something here?

Thanks in advance.

PM

Family portrait (4 replies)

rsvmgb1974 — Wed, 22 May 2013 20:12:11 -0500

Nice day today (so far). Garaged B's were covered in pollen, green powdery stuff. Hardly noticable on the Citron paint but the black, wow, nasty.

Took them both out for a spin then a wash. Took the chance to vacuum then blow out the garage after a winter of discontent. Sucked up a couple of dead mice, then blew out lots of leaves and dust. Can't put clean MG's back in a dirty garage. :)

Midget isn't quite ready for prime time. Runs great though, looking for a little help to put the hood back on.

Just finished taking these pitures with a thunderstorm approaching fast. Wondered if it started to rain which one I would "save" first. Well the LE has the top up so it's between the Citron B and the Midget. Well the Midget has no top up or a hood, but then againI really love Citron. Didn't matter, got them all put away before sprinkles arrived.

Fitting new bezels (1 reply)

k44sec — Thu, 23 May 2013 09:26:43 -0500

Best way to remove instrument bezels to fit new ones (tu)

HIF SU Choke Mechanism (5 replies)

gwnorth — Wed, 22 May 2013 20:33:17 -0500

My '72 MGB has always been a little hard to start from cold despite setting carbs, timing, valves, etc. It runs and starts well as soon as it's warm.
I've removed the tops of the SU's and discovered that no matter what I do to the choke linkage the jet doesn't drop down to enrich the mixture. (I haven't had the carburettors off the car. I acquired it 1 1/2 years ago. DPO had the carburettors off to change a leaky float).
Is there a simple description with photos showing how the choke mechanism works anywhere? How does the linkage cam pick up and drop the jet?
Any suggestions regarding this problem would be appreciated.

Bolt specs (3 replies)

29desoto — Wed, 22 May 2013 18:34:59 -0500

Located a windshield for Carmine. I know I probably have the bolts in my spare hardware drawer, but don't know which ones they are.

So, what are the specs for the two center rod bolts?

What are the specs for the four windshield hold down bolts?

Numerous discussions in various threads, but can't say I ever found a good answer!

TIA

Float Bowl lid leak (9 replies)

RestorerMG — Thu, 23 May 2013 00:13:42 -0500

Has anyone had the inlet nipple on an HS4 float bowl lid fail? It looks like the nipple is pressed in the casting of the lid. For the life of me, the fuel spits out when the engine is at a higher RPM than just idle or cruising speed. I thought the hose was serated where the radiator clamp squeezes it but I redid that, cut the hose etc...and it still squirts out. This is the front carb - radiator end. The carb is from a '62 - very early model I am told and the seat and needle are a ball bearing type which the float (new) push up on to to shut off the flow. The lid housing itself has the inlet and overflow nipples but they are on the same plane as each other, the overflow is not stepped down to a different position as it is on the rear carb. I am changing the radiator clamps to Fuel Injector clamps to see if that gives a better even squeeze.
Also, should I use 1/4" or 5/16" hoses???

ZDDP Paste (2 replies)

RBCC1969MGB — Wed, 22 May 2013 23:40:47 -0500

I'm going to put the 1069 1800 engine back together later this week and I am having trouble finding ZDDP Paste for the cams and lifters. I have used the oil for quite some time but wanted to know; What is a good lube to use for my cam and lifters?

Hopefully MOT tomorrow... (8 replies)

racedriver — Thu, 23 May 2013 10:04:17 -0500

On our 66BGT.

Started the resurrection on the car at the end of November 2012 and 7 Months later its gone from the bare shell to "finished" car, including 2 months when we were away in Australia.

We've worked most weekends on it, when my eldest has been on holiday from college I've taken time out from work and we've both got stuck in on things, but I'm actually amazed that we've done it in 5 months in effect.

Hopefully there won't be anything too major to sort for its MOT pass which I'm hoping we can book it into the local test station in the morning (we completed bleeding the brakes this evening so didn't want to pre book it beforehand) and we can get some mileage done in the car this coming weekend.

Happy days.

Andrew

Leaking heater valve repair parts. (9 replies)

DennisMGB — Thu, 23 May 2013 00:58:47 -0500

My heater valve was leaking so I took it apart to find that the diaphragm inside was torn. I don't want to buy a whole new unit for 30 or so dollars. Can anyone tell me where I can buy just the seal to fix it? Thanks, DennisMGB

Successful Car Radio Install (4 replies)

szempruw — Wed, 22 May 2013 20:58:57 -0500

It was time to install a new radio. I'm finishing up the interior, creeping up on installing the seats. I chose a Custom Autosound USA-4 DIN radio because it has the old 2 knob look and features of the newer radios. It's the only one I found with a CD player. It has the USB and MP3 play capability also. I have a bunch of CDs that I wanted to still use.

The install was relatively painless. The console opening had to be shaved less than 1/16" on one side. I also used a pencil soldering iron to make/melt smaller radii corners as the 1/2 shell bracket has truly square corners. They say you really need 7.2 x 2.11 inches, but it's really more like 7 1/8". Regardless, and easy adaptation.

I put bullet connectors on the power pigtail supplied. The 6 junction female connector uses only 5 bullets, making one available for the continuous power line needed. It also comes with a speaker pigtail to cover both front and rear pair.

The unit needs 6 1/2" and my 1975 has the metal bulkhead with the matching hole behind it. It was a little snug with the heater hose, but all fit fine. Normally you would have to strap it down, but it rests on the bulkhead and is held tightly, so I don't expect any stress cracks on the console from lack of rear support.

Firing up the radio required connecting the battery which wasn't connected for 1 1/2 years during the restoration. So it became a bit of a radio test and a "smoke" test after all the wiring fixes that were done. Happy to say all checked out great.

Anybody looking for recommendations and want a CD player with the old radio look, you might want to consider this radio as a option.

PS. I don't own stock in this company and I'm just sharing a good experience.

Door keys (6 replies)

magoo56 — Wed, 22 May 2013 23:29:46 -0500

I purchased a MGB GT with only ignition keys. How do I get keys for the doors and hatch? Do they use the same key?

Battery minder / tender??? Which??? (13 replies)

Sixtynine69 — Thu, 23 May 2013 03:25:19 -0500

Hi, good evening,
The answer is probably on here already, but I really need it explaining simply, in a way a bricklayer will understand.
Here's the scenario, I have a B and a GT, both of which do not get used very much, both are garaged,they don't get used much because of several things, the weather,no spare time and we have to use other vehicles specifically as workhorses.
Due to this, the batteries tend to go flat, the B has two 6v and the GT one12v.
What I would like to do is purchase either a minder or a tender to keep BOTH cars charged up.
Could anybody tell me what would be the best model to buy and what accessories I would need.
I have tried to read the blurb, but seem to get nowhere.
I have normal chargers, but would like to use something I can just hook up and forget about.
It would be better if I could buy it on this side of the pond!!!
They will take a charge but go flat after about two weeks.(ish).
Thanks in advance for any help/advice.
Trevor.
P. S. They are both 71s.

Front suspension work / cleanup... (7 replies)

Joe567 — Wed, 22 May 2013 22:16:01 -0500

Hi Everyone,

I am in the process of working on the front suspension and
brakes. As you can see I have been working with the car
on jack stands with the crossmember still on the car.

(My goal is to have a nice driver when I am finished)

I was looking at some other pictures of this type of work
on here, and my question is - should I just go ahead and
pull the cross member with the steering rack attached and
work on the assembly on a nice work table - without
killing my knees :-) It does not look like that is a big
undertaking at this point with my project?

I already have the engine and gearbox out also, so I
have easy access to the crossmember bolts, and I was planning
on painting that also. The other benefit of this would be that
I could replace the mounting rubbers and get the frame area all
cleaned up.

Thanks
Joe S.

Scottydawg (1 reply)

spikemichael — Wed, 22 May 2013 17:01:22 -0500

Anyone heard from Scott since he sold his B? know what he's doing?

71 mgb gt window aluminum trim (10 replies)

bobsmgbgt — Thu, 23 May 2013 06:32:36 -0500

Have just installed front windshield on my restoration and now face aluminum trim. Has anyone got any tips on shortcuts. I installed the 2 bottom corners and called it a day. Any special tools? Does it require 2 people or do I need 10? lol. Is there anything easy on this car?

Weber 32/36 carb fittment (3 replies)

highwaydevil — Wed, 22 May 2013 14:30:06 -0500

I found a Weber carb on Craigslist off of a 1960 MGA. Here's the info I know: Weber Carburetor for MGB, 5 bearing Motor. Serial #27152. 32/36DGEV17211091. Includes intake manifold.

Can someone please tell me if it'll fit a 1978 MGB?

Thank you,
David

Overdrive - Seattle area (3 replies)

Jim Lema — Wed, 22 May 2013 15:53:07 -0500

Saw this on Craig's List. No connection and I don't have any information. Overdrive $200.00

oil in gas filter (12 replies)

argator — Wed, 22 May 2013 21:59:53 -0500

Car is running fine but it was time to change the fuel filter. When I pulled the old filter and emptied it their was oil mixed with gas. When I put new filter on & started the car I could see my filter turn black from oil. Any suggestions?

rough running, carbs? (8 replies)

MGB1970X2 — Wed, 22 May 2013 22:57:50 -0500

I have a 1970 MGB with a 1973 engine. All the polution equipment had been removed before I purchased the car. The car has been running like a top on the highway, no signs of any carb issues. In the middle of a 120 mile drive, I noticed some hesitation going through the gears that I didn't have before. The higher the speed the more pronounced the "stutter". On the highway at 65 mph, 3500 rpms the car is having all kinds of hesitation issues. I'm thinking fuel filter and keeping my fingers crossed that it won't compleletly give up before I make it home. I backed off on the speed and nursed it back to my garage.

The car has a new gas tank, it has a new aftermarket electric fuel pump. It had a fuel filter between the tank and fuel pump. After arriving home I removed the old filter by the tank and replaced it with a tube. I installed a new filter up under the hood where the fuel line transitions from metal to rubber on the driver side inner fender. The rubber fuel line from there to the carb was "original" or very old, so I replaced that as well with a new rubber fuel line.

Tried the car again and no change. Perhaps some of the old rubber fuel line desintegrated and made it into the carb? Or perhaps the aftermarket fuel pump is having trouble keeping up at higher speeds or rpms. I have over 2000 miles, maybe closer to 3000 on this fuel pump without any issues.

I'm far from being an expert on MG carbs. I was able to borrow "the complete official MGB Workshop Manual by Robert Bentley with some great details for rebuilding the carbs. However, I thought I would check in with you guys first as you have come up with some amazing "fixes" based on way more experience than I have.

Any suggestions?
Regards: Jack

repair pricing (2 replies)

kuz1 — Thu, 23 May 2013 02:05:38 -0500

These are just estimates

Copper differential thrust washers (2 replies)

DB Wood — Wed, 22 May 2013 12:48:33 -0500

It appears that these are copper thrust washers. I have never seen these before, but they should be a heck of a lot better than the fiber ones that are stock and currently available. The car they are on was one that Doug Jackson worked his magic on for years before it came to Oregon. What do you think?

Anyone in London England can help? (no replies)

Nicecar — Wed, 22 May 2013 10:55:53 -0500

I've got a friend in London (Chiswick) going through a rough time. His mother just died, and he's being forced out his council home.

He's a really neat guy, and might enjoy a drive in a B. You'd enjoy his company too. He also needs to find a new place to live. Send me a PM if you can help in any way.

He was invaluable in helping me create a "Phantogram" of The Empress Hotel (Victoria BC) for which I won an actual medal! I gave him some copies that he might have one to give you. Phantogram - variation on a 3-D image, where subject rises into thin air. You try to touch it and your hand passes right through!

His 62nd. birthday is June 8. Make his day!

Great Thanks

Odd SU fuel pump (4 replies)

DB Wood — Wed, 22 May 2013 22:28:20 -0500

I got this in a box of parts and have never seen one like this. When hooked up to power it clicks and then hums. My guess is that it is a rotary pump but not sure. Anyone know about this?

Reupholstering Seats for 1973 MGBGT (1 reply)

1405severn — Wed, 22 May 2013 11:40:18 -0500

As I begin to reupholster the seats I have a couple of questions. I need to add that I have the VB instructions as well as the Lindsay Porter book as guides.

1. Porter shows thin foam glued to the cardboard back. Has anyone done this? VB doesn't mention this.
2. Someplace I read that the foam should be glued to the vertical pieces on the seat frame as well as the round piece and the sides. Thoughts?
3. Also read that I should use brush on contact cement for gluing the foam to the frame and spray on for gluing the cover to the foam. ??

Thanks,
Dave

GT Rear Hatch Emblem - how to affix? (13 replies)

Sprite Lou — Wed, 22 May 2013 23:38:42 -0500

Good Morning All,

just finished polishing up the MG Emblem for the rear hatch of the 73GT.

It has 3 "tangs" or "posts" on the back of it. How does it secure? Do I just find some "speed nuts"? (there wasn't one when I got the car, so I have nothing to compare to).

Also, is there anything special to do to (try) prevent water leaking in through those 3 holes?

Pics are usually most helpful.

thanks in advance as always.

~Lou

Rust, is this bad? (31 replies)

chicagocrooza — Wed, 22 May 2013 19:47:37 -0500

Ok guys, mechanically sound 1972 MGB, had been a daily driver for over a month now, been very happy with it.
I know how much $ you want to spend on the car is very subjective but I am starting to want to investigate into how much it would cost me to keep this car for a long time, I know by the end of this driving season, I will have to make the following decision:

1. to upgrade the interior, carpets, door panels, center console, and may be some door seals etc.....

2. repainting, which will also involve repairing some of the rusty spot and further investigate any of the know rusty MGB issues

From these two pictures (both sides), can any experts out there tell if this is going to be problematic?

Cheap Thrills (1 reply)

jonahnaylor — Wed, 22 May 2013 10:39:33 -0500

Haha well I'm not so sure about the Thrills... depends on your driving style; but does anyone know any Cheap Tricks in MGB restoration.

I thought a thread for all of us that have spent too much already on spare parts, brightware and accessories would be nice.

So apart from the usual polishing up and cleaning of the MGB, does anyone know any good tips on how you've made your car better using things that were either very cheap, free, or not even made for a car in the first place!?

Any suggestions are welcome on good MGB improvements that are worth doing but perhaps would normally be left or not thought of. Thanks for any help!

Brookland Green... Or is it... (5 replies)

jonahnaylor — Wed, 22 May 2013 14:46:06 -0500

I have a resprayed car which is supposedly Brooklands Green. It's only been sprayed in the last few years I'd say as the paint looks nice and bright and fresh.

The colour is fantastic and it certainly looks very similar to original Brooklands on other 1978 MGB GTs I've seen images of, but when I ordered a touch up from MGOCSPARES (who I'm sure would be one of the best colour accurate companies out there) - well it's just a little darker than the paint on my car.

Now I'm sure this is down to a bad respray or some other 'Brooklands' variation the paintshop must of used at the time that wasn't the true MGB mix.

My other thought was that the paint might be accurate but actually Dark British Racing green or some other green...

Does anyone know (specific to MGBs and my car's year) if Dark British Racing green is a little darker or lighter than Brooklands?

If it's very very slightly lighter, I may well try ordering some BRG touchup and give that a go instead.

Thanks for any help with this.

Fairly bad fuel consuption (12 replies)

Deluxe — Thu, 23 May 2013 00:10:56 -0500

Hi everyone,

I drove up to my university today (180km/110miles each way). It was raining like mad all the way, which was tiring, especially after only getting about three hours of sleep last night. Anyway, after 130 kilometers I filled it with 25l of petrol. After arriving home, the fuel level is now about where it was before I filled it up. Doing some quick and inaccurate calculations that equates to about 11l/100km, or 23mpg. I have come to expect far more from the little MG. I do not have an especially heavy right foot. Most of the miles were done in traffic with 60mph at most, 50mph usually.

I just took the carbs off to fit my sports exhaust, could this have something to do with it? I did not fiddle with them, and I did not separate them. What should my fuel consuption be? I replaced the cylinder head with an unleaded unit last summer.Can it have something to do with the timing? Sorry for posing all these questions but the fairly economical side of this car is something I appreciate.

Cheers,

Oil Pressure (1 reply)

peewit99 — Wed, 22 May 2013 10:00:47 -0500

OK, I have a 1972 GT which I inherited as a partially completed restoration project. The engine was professionally rebuilt and has run 300 miles. It has just been refilled with a good quality 20w/50.

My problem is that I have just under 40 psi on the oil pressure gauge. It’s constant whether the engine is cold or up to temperature and is the same at tick-over or when running at a decent speed on the open road.

I’ve checked the oil pressure relief valve (easy: 10 minutes to jack the car up, 10 minutes to get the valve out, 10 minutes to check and clean it and four and a half hours to put the b#@%y thing back). I’m beginning to suspect the gauge or the pipework; flexible connection to block is new but the link through the bulkhead is a bit rusty. That said, I’ve not heard of similar problems before.

I just wondered if anyone had any other suggestions?

Front Suspension/crossmember/brakes (7 replies)

ERO — Wed, 22 May 2013 18:14:29 -0500

I need some pics of the front crossmember(mine is off the car)of where the brake line routes to the front wheel brake hoses.I also have the "Rack" off to change the Rubber Boots,are they filled with fluid,and what is that fluid?How do I refill them? Again,Thanks for your advice and help,Rich

Sound/heat proofing and new carpet -'70 MG B (7 replies)

Toms MG Midget — Thu, 23 May 2013 11:25:13 -0500

I put my 1970 MG B in my garage last fall and started working on the interior, removed the seats, cleaned the rails and repainted them. I pulled all the carpet out, replaced drivers side half floor pan. I put in DynaMat and am very satisfied with it. There was another club member that had some "mat" left over, not DynaMat but of equal quality and I insulated everything I could stick it to. I covered the battery compartment cover on the inside, letting the mat make a nice seal. The carpet kit I bought was not an exact fit, but very very close. On their recommendation I used 3M spray adhesive, which I bought at Grangers at great expense. When I ran out of that, I replaced it with Elmers spray adhesive @ $4.49 a 12 oz can. I could not tell any difference.
TIP: how to find the bolt holes in the floor when putting the carpet down. I painted around the bolt holes, aligned the carpet and pressed it down with the paint still wet. It made purfect circles on the back side of the carpet backing. Punched them out and the holes in the carpet align perfectly with the bolt holes in the floor.
I have taken my gauges out and cleaned them, it is so much easier without the seats in the way. I am comtemplating how much rewiring I want to do. I am happy with the project so far. Oh yes, my defroster vents were a disaster, completely rusted, I was going to replace them until I took them out and found they are made out of pretty substantial metal. I put them on the wire brush, cleaned them up, and repainted them, look like now. No trouble getting them out, except the one nut on the drivers side that is up behind the gauges, glad I have small hands.

MGB GT targa roof (12 replies)

pinkyponk — Wed, 22 May 2013 12:59:51 -0500

Here's something a little different. http://ontario.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-1973-MG-MGB-GT-W0QQAdIdZ481879966

5000 bucks seems cheap enough. I wish he had included a shot with the metal roof insert.

Removing the heater return pipe (3 replies)

jonahnaylor — Wed, 22 May 2013 11:19:11 -0500

Hi this is a really daft question but, my heater return pipe could do with a re-spray and clean up.

On a day where the car hasn't had a run out, would it be safe to remove it or would coolant/water go everywhere?

Really I just want to check if I need to drain fluids to take this off and paint it, or if I'm ok to just remove it with a minor spill and then put it back without having to drain or refill water/coolant.

Thanks for any help, this is something I should know... However on reading online and in books, this part is skipped over.

Also can I do the same with the Rocker box cover or again do I have to drain the oil first? Thanks very much for your help, I'm a simpleton!

vto spare wheel (2 replies)

rkassed — Wed, 22 May 2013 09:24:07 -0500

Hi guys, I have a spare tire in my gt and its a vto 15x6 and now the hatch floor wont close and lock down and therefore the hatch also wont close....anyone else running into this? I was thinking of raising the whole false floor up a bit to work

On the road, new problems. (no replies)

BobTheRedBird — Wed, 22 May 2013 07:56:14 -0500

Hello everyone, It's Stephen again.
After what happened to my recent B I'm still talking to a body shop about having it put on there frame machine.

But I got my 75' on the road and it's got its own problems.
Also I have a stupid question that anyone way more experienced then me can answer.

Last night I replaced one of the wheel cylinders because it was bleeding really bad and covered my entire wheel in brake fluid.
Anyway I pumped up the brakes and was going to go on a test ride when my headlights would not come on.
So I felt behind the dash, to wiggle the wires around, and the back of the switch came off.
I spent about an hour trying to get it back on to no avail.
How do I get it out? I felt some weird clip but I couldn't get it out.

The second thing is more of a question to understand the B.
I'm used to driving a 79 so this one is a bit different. (and the steering wheel is huge)
This one has the cool overdrive feature and it feels really nice on the open road, and there's a switch in the center console that I thought was for the overdrive system. But the overdrive engages without it.
It's a switch that looks like the headlights switch, but when I flip it a little red light next to it comes on. The top part of the switch that says what it is seems to have been broken off.
What is this for?

Thanks for any help that you guys would add.
It sure is nice to be back on the road in a B.
-Stephen

painting rotostyle wheels (5 replies)

NNN — Wed, 22 May 2013 12:42:09 -0500

I am going to renew my rotostyles with a new paint job. My question is, is there any cheaper paint than the $20 can from Moss? That can be purchased locally. I plan on using the cut out from Victoria British. Any and all help will be muck appreciated. Thank you.

Early overdrive question... (4 replies)

74GT — Wed, 22 May 2013 17:16:46 -0500

I am looking at a GT parts car that has an overdrive transmission, but I want to make sure that it is what I actually need before I drag it home. I haven't gotten a close enough look at the car to read the VIN or engine number, so the only thing I have to identify it by is the overdrive switch on the dashboard. This seems to make the car earlier than 1968.

Did all cars that had the overdrive switch on the dashboard use the early style overdrive, or were there some exceptions? Did any cars later than 1968 have the dashboard switch? I have done plenty of searching but have found some sources that aren't completely clear. I will probably still try to get the car and try to trade for the correct transmission for my 74.

Thanks

280z Wheels on an MGB (6 replies)

AHark — Wed, 22 May 2013 11:54:32 -0500

Anyone running 15" wheels from a 280z on your B? Found some nice ones at a great price but wanted check with you guys before I buy...

Thanks!

Pic required of Steering column bracket! (3 replies)

MG Cruiser — Wed, 22 May 2013 08:03:47 -0500

Hi All, Can someone post a pic of the steering column bracket that holds the column to the dashboard frame.Thanks for your help!

Speedometer Rebuild Questions (3 replies)

mpkmgb — Wed, 22 May 2013 09:13:31 -0500

Maybe I'm too fussy and I certainly don't drive a show care but the speedometer on my 77B (67K original miles) does not look as good as the rest of my gauges. The speedometer works fine. However, the lens is cracked and foggy, the needle is a little jumpy at times and the numbers in the trip odometer don't always line up well when I push the reset button (especially if the car is moving). If I push the button two or three times sometimes that will make them all align. I bought a replacement lens from VB but it doesn't have the reset button hole and I don't know if I can drill it as it looks as if it is glass and not plexiglass (maybe I should have taken my old lens to a glass shop to have it replicated or to have it drilled). I plan to pull it out to do the lens and I was thinking maybe I should do a rebuild while I have it out.

That being said I have a few questions to throw out there.

Is it difficult to rebuild a speedometer?
Are there any recommended videos or links?
What parts would I need?
Where would I get them?
If it is not recommended to do it myself then are there any places someone could recommend that I could send it to?
If so what would I expect to pay?
Am I crazy and should I just leave well enough alone?

Thanks,

MK

Complete Engine Change (3 replies)

oldmod — Wed, 22 May 2013 08:56:31 -0500

Help, I need some advice.

Have decided to blue print another engine for my "77 MG. I could go through the whole execise of rebore, pistons and rings, head upgrade etc.
OR I could buy a 2000cc stage 2 Performance unit. OR a stage 2 head on a rebored 1.8 to 2000 with a new cam and carbs.

Does any know the best way to go about this convertion.

Mick

LED Front Indicator Set Up! (1 reply)

MG Cruiser — Wed, 22 May 2013 08:22:55 -0500

Hi All, I had ten minutes and thought I would put this together to see what it would do. Please do not moan about the workmanship. This was an old light unit laying around the garage.The LED unit is from the boat I had a while ago. The indicator lights up nice and bright in day light so it should work fine at night. I could even use these with the clear covers as an option. On a technical note....LOL.... there are three LEDs in the unit and they reflect where they should for proper visibility! I might try to refine this idea a bit further. What do you think?

Further thought...I may try the park light to see if I can figure a DRL setup!

I want to change my (not Tom's) knob (4 replies)

MGB567 — Wed, 22 May 2013 08:46:44 -0500

In the topic linked below I was asking about my bonnet pull dilemma. So since posting it I've had an opportunity to compare the round B knob with the T knob I also have and the T knob cable is about 2" longer than the B. Before I start to fiddle with my knobs I wondered if anyone new how those are actually attached to the cable so perhaps I could swap the knobs rather than either cut my outer cable or swap back to the T knob. I like the round B knob!

Bonnet pull dilemma

Air filters (5 replies)

rdgreen — Thu, 23 May 2013 00:37:02 -0500

Replaced the Ramflo air filters with a couple of K&N filters over the weekend. After removing them I noticed that the foam filter looks as though it has been attacked by mice or rats, although it could just have rotted away and I haven't noticed it before. Although it is difficult to see, the foam also has numerous pockets of material that look like they have been attacked as well. Possibly caused by a backfire? The front filter is completely undamaged despite fitting and oiling at the same time.
Just a warning for anyone with these filters to have a good close inspection at regular intervals. I don't go anywhere near dirt roads, so not expecting any long term issues with the engine.
Anyway runs quieter and idles better with the K&N's.

Skeletons in the closet A WEBER DGEV Photo Essay (10 replies)

spikemichael — Wed, 22 May 2013 11:02:19 -0500

Its raining so I decided to do a photo essay with photos I took and have been sitting on knowing that sooner or later I would do this.

I am presenting here the DGEV from all installed angles and a few that you might never have to see.

First, the DGEV, correctly mounted on the intake manifold.

Top to bottom photos show
[1] Throttle linkage with bung for power braked installed in fore ground. Accelerator pump seen to upper right

[2] Throttle cable bracket and back of linkage

[3] Brass screw is the idle jet retainer, white plastic elbow is crank case ventilation fitting.

[4] Fuel supply inlet, in-carb fuel filter is mounted from beneath. More on that later.

[5] Weber mold, this one is "made in Spain, that is GOOD. Fuel inlet tot he right, fuel filter retainer brass plug ( 3/4" ) seen below left side is plugged.

[6] Lots here. Black disc is the electronic choke, 12v is applied to the terminal in the center. large brass screw to the top right is the other idle jet retainer. to the right is the accelerator pump, the brass tube at the center is the "ported vacuum signal to the distributor." Above that is the choke set screw, almost never touched.

[7] Ported vacuum tube seen head on. To the left of it is a stud not used in this application.Below and to the left is the idle set screw, often referred to as the mixture screw. BE CAREFUL TO NEVER SCREW IT IN ALL THE WAY!

[8] Top right, Choke diaphragm is located in this housing, below it is the idle set screw.

[9] Here we have the throttle idle set screw.

smoothies (5 replies)

Dell-WA — Wed, 22 May 2013 06:18:36 -0500

guys.........went by one of those ubiquitous drive-thru espresso sales stands called "Bikini Bottoms" with a sign touting "smoothies 1/2-off"........can you guess what flashed by my eyeballs??? ..........blinded Dell

Suspension Bushings (14 replies)

jfrankr — Thu, 23 May 2013 10:34:26 -0500

I wonder if there is a list, or schedule of what bushings to use where. My car will be going back together over the next few months and I'd like to put the best bushings for the job in the right places. For instance maybe rubber is really best for this but poly for something else. My car's a 66 and it would be nice to have the suspension moderately upgraded and I would like it to stay a little "flatter" around a corner than stock provides. At the same time I really don't want tar strips to jolt the car.

Need Help Wiring Tachometer (5 replies)

jrsnell — Wed, 22 May 2013 10:47:12 -0500

Hello MG Savants,

I'm hoping someone can help me with an issue that I'm having trying to figure out how to wire my tachometer correctly. I'm in the final stages of custom wiring my 68 BGT using the AdvanceAutoWire product. When I bought the car, none of the dash wiring was connected, so I don't have a really solid "go by" using the old harness.

I know that the simplest answer is to connect the white wire with the female plug to the male on the back of the tach and the white wire with the male plug to the female on the back of the tach. BUT... those wires were never connected and now I'm looking for a deeper answer if any of you gurus can provide it... Which terminal on the back of the tachometer should connect to what?

So, the first picture is the Advance wiring diagram showing one wire going to the power block and one wire going to the coil... and then maybe one wire "jumping" from one terminal to the other?

Help me out here... For whatever reason, I'm not getting it. Thanks.

Car tried to go for a drive without me... (17 replies)

W.A.T. — Thu, 23 May 2013 07:15:26 -0500

Here is a new puzzle for you to ponder.

74 MGB - just got it back on the road a few weeks ago. Had the head reworked by Flowspeed, Fast Road cam, Weber DGAV, etc.

Really enjoying driving the car again. Been driving it everyday until today. Had it sitting on my four post lift (down)overnight after check underneath for leaks and such the evening before. Parking brake pulled, and in first gear.

Here is my Puzzle...arrived home today to find the car half on half off the lift. Some how it had ran over the chocks and the lift scissor jack with the front wheels and ran into the wall 5 feet in front of the lift. ???

Went to my security cameras to see who had done that to my car. The cameras show at 5:50PM the car just moved all by itself.

Decided the starter must have shorted and engaged by itself. Ran out to disconnect my battery, expected to find the battery discharged, wires melted and starter burned up. To my surprise none of the above at all. Started the engine and everything
seems normal. Drove it around

I put the car back on the lift and looked closely at the contacts on the solenoid to see if the wires were close to making contact or touching. All checked good.

Luckily no damage to the car. It did bend the sheet metal building wall.

From now on, at least for a while, it's apply the parking brake and leave it in neutral. Glad the lift was down!

Anyone every heard of this before? It could only happen to me...

engine stand (11 replies)

robert1839 — Thu, 23 May 2013 09:13:52 -0500

this is the engine stand I made in my shop class

Rear Engine Plate Question (8 replies)

kmartin — Wed, 22 May 2013 11:05:00 -0500

67 BGT restoration and modification. The engine was just thrown in this car to sell it, no pilot bearing, missing bolts etc., now I'm starting to assemble this engine after the machine work has been completed. The rear engine plate has 8 counter bored holes for some of the bolts, when we disassembled this engine some of the bolts had the heads of the bolts ground half way off, others did not. It looks like they may not need to be ground off. Is there enough clearance if I use standard bolts and not grind down the head of the bolts? All you engine gurus chime in. Thanks, Ken

Tachometer not working - ignition light on (5 replies)

Cotco05 — Wed, 22 May 2013 21:15:14 -0500

Hey all,

Bought the '70 MGB GT from the PO with the tachometer not working.

When starting ignition light comes on but not showing revs during idle or drive.

Had the tacho rebuilt and calibrated but still no love.

Wiring yes? What am I looking for? Has a new electronic ignition and have read in other threads this can cause some issues for standard wiring.

Thanks!

Car below, in Australia... about to sell actually, floor pans and sills have rusted and don't have the cash before rego in Sep :(

Bent Lower Trunnion Bolt (2 replies)

LennyDaVinci — Tue, 21 May 2013 21:41:19 -0500

Has anyone else found that their lower front wishbone trunnions are bent - both sides?
I think someone has tried to adjust castor or toe-in by bending them.
I guess replacement with new is the only way to get proper alignment?

Is ignition going bad? (6 replies)

78mgb — Tue, 21 May 2013 22:27:14 -0500

I have a 78 MGB. Yesterday, I took it for drive and parked it. Took the key out and then noticed that the car was still running. Put key back in and took it out again, car still running. Finally just put car in gear and held brake down while letting clutch out. Car stopped. I drove it home and removed key and car stopped without problem.

I suspect a problem with the ignition.

So any suggestions about what is happening.

extra wires for cigarette lighter (8 replies)

daved — Tue, 21 May 2013 23:23:26 -0500

I am replacing the cig lighter and have checked the search engine for how the wiring works. I connected the purple to the side shaft on the new Moss cig lighter. I notice 2 male slots on the body of the lighter and the screw in part. I'm assuming that it is for ground. I noticed a female wire that is in the vicinity. Do I hook it up to either and put the battery back on and hope for the best? Or is the a different method that I should be following?

I have pics!

torque wrench calibration (2 replies)

mac townsend — Wed, 22 May 2013 23:05:21 -0500

found this today. Most of the clickers we'd use would cost $50. I wonder how hard they'd laugh if I sent in a $9.95 Harbor Freight wrench?

http://www.teamtorque.com/documents/torquepricing.pdf

they're in North Dakota.

Anybody heard from the Limey , from Bits4Brits ? (1 reply)

jmsmgbgt1 — Tue, 21 May 2013 20:45:00 -0500

Web site not up yet. Anyone heard when you can place an order?

77 B Diagnostics interpretation (13 replies)

simon1966 — Wed, 22 May 2013 22:17:13 -0500

I am learning more and more about my purchase and realize that all is not perfect in MG land! I have read a ton of threads on this forum to try and educate myself.

A quick summary of events so far.....

The Good Friday evening breakdown was as the result of the engine getting fouled by oil that had come up the side cover breather pipe into the air cleaner of the Weber DGV. I cleaned it up, cleaned up the plugs and it has been running fine since. However I was fairly sure that I am dealing with an engine that has some issues.

First I was able to demonstrate to my satisfaction that the oil from the breather appears to be being pushed out, not sucked out. EDIT (On second thoughts I am having doubts about this now. Once oil is in the pipe I guess it would be getting pressure from behind as the pipe is effectively blocked, perhaps it is getting sucked there by the carb at higher revs?)

Second with the oil filler cap removed with the engine running there is a distinct pulsating air pressure exiting the filler hole.

So I got myself a compression tester and low and behold

1: 110 psi
2: 90 psi
3: 140 psi
4: 140 psi

So Houston, we have a problem!

Everything I have read so far says that this is likely to be exhaust valves in 1 and 2, head gasket between 1 and 2, cracked head, or some shot rings.

To my inexperienced mind, the car actually runs quite well, pulls well and is a blast. I am getting oil pressure at idle in the 50 lbs area and when running closer to 75. Temps are stable according to the dash dial. The only time there is obvious blue smoke from the exhaust is after there has been a deposit of oil into the carb. This has happened a couple of times now, and really only seems to happen if I push the car and am up above 4000 RPM.

I have flushed and refilled the radiator, there was no sign of oil. I have changed the oil and filter, there was no sign of coolant. So to my way of thinking this probably means that it is not the head gasket or a cracked head, though I am sure there is a way both of these can occur without co-mingling of liquids!

I realize that the next thing to do is to try a leak down test, but currently don't have the compressed air source to do it.

I am guessing that probably this engine needs some head work and a good look at the rings. I am somewhat tempted to enjoy it as is for the season and tackle the engine over the winter.

I would be curious for any expert opinions.

how to install Fir flex door seals on a MG BGT? (2 replies)

a1972mgbgt — Tue, 21 May 2013 20:08:11 -0500

How to install Fir flex door seals on a MG BGT?

Do I start in the back top corner of the Doors? OR meet the ends in the bottom center of the door?

Thanks Mike

Anybody done this?? (2 replies)

fantm2flyer — Tue, 21 May 2013 19:19:06 -0500

I'm about finished installing a honey beige interior in my car, and it just doesn't seem like it goes with the black center console, radio console, and dash. Has anyone covered those items to match the interior colors, and have pictures of the results. I think the consoles would be easy enough to do, the dash maybe not so easy. Appreciate any thoughts and pictures if available. Thanks!

Starting engine after sitting (4 replies)

roadster95 — Tue, 21 May 2013 19:29:42 -0500

Hi all,

I am getting ready to start my B after sitting for several months, I remember someone telling me that I should take out the spark plugs and put oil in the cylinders and just want to check A. if I should do this, B. how much oil goes in, and C. is there any specific oil or just use regular engine oil? Any help is greatly appreciated, Thanks!

MGB's man (2 replies)

valintine71 — Tue, 21 May 2013 17:43:28 -0500

I recently purchased a 71 mgb "literal" GA barn car.The car has a new gas tank but there is a dime size rust hole in the floor of the trunk,are the top of the gas tank and the floor of the trunk 2 different peices?It seems to be fresh metal when I look through the hole...also, is the fuel pump supposed to be in the trunk?(boot?)Thanks again guys and gals for all your help!!!

GPS speedo redux:D (12 replies)

29desoto — Wed, 22 May 2013 19:40:49 -0500

Carmine (the big ragoo) is off getting an exhaust system. Local guy doing the work, and let me tell you he's having a ball. I think he loves the challenge of building something from the ground up. Saw the header to the crossmember yesterday, and it's a piece of work.

Anyway.

Got a line on a windshield, need to go get it. Maybe this week.

Point of this is that it's almost time for the dash to go in. I got one off the Trader, and it's a 75. I want to avoid the hassle of trying to work an MG speedo to a GM transmission.::o

What's the best GPS you have seen for the price, and what size can I put in? Obviously, I'd like it to look like it's supposed to be there.

I did read through the recent threads, but it seems no one has ever said "HERE IT IS".

Prayeth, tell me!

Blue Label overdrive (5 replies)

Dagoof — Tue, 21 May 2013 15:30:16 -0500

I am looking at an overdrive tranny from a 77.he says it was pulled in the 80's and it's been in the garage ever since.he wants 200 for it is that a good price and what else should I be looking for as far as defectsand what else should be needed to install it in my 79. Thanks

I've Got a Racer! (25 replies)

RIRaven — Thu, 23 May 2013 10:04:05 -0500

Which is to say, I have an engine that I can't get to idle below 3000 RPM.

I'm trying to get my '71 GT to the point that I can get it out for a ride. It's time!

To get the engine minimally sorted, I put my one-year-since-Schlemmerized distributor out of my '73, set the valves, and took off the original HS4s for a moderate rebuild. This involved the model-specific Moss rebuild kit plus new throttle shafts only, no re-bushing and reaming. I also set the timing before the rebuild at normal idle. At the time there was no jumping around on the timing light.

Today I followed the instructions by the book: Backed off the fast idle screws so not touching the cam at all. Set the jets two full turns counter clockwise from flush. Set the idle screws to one full turn in from first contact.

The engine started right up with a little choke, and went straight to 3500. It sounded good, with no misfiring etc. Like I would expect it to when tuned correctly. Only a little faster. B)-

I backed off the choke, and the idle went down a touch, so I backed off the idle screws, thinking I misjudged the first adjustment. I did, in fact, and I was able to drop the idle down to about 3000 with no choke and no contact of the idle screws, or the fast idle screws. The engine didn't seem to need to warm up at all. It ran fine with now choke after just a few seconds. I could verify with my eye that the jets were fully up into the carb bodies.

The pistons seemed to be about a quarter of an inch above the deck, and while I could sort of push them down with my finger they would pop back up on their own. I first put 20W50 in the dashpots, which seemed awfully viscous, but took a little bit out and ran with the plunger screwed in and out both, with no noticeable change.

The throttle works correctly, and the choke still speeds up the engine a bit even after it has warmed up. Everything seems completely fine, except the high idle speed.

Thinking that I might have bodged one of the butterflies, I tried holding my hand over one or the other of the intakes. After a couple of seconds the engine slows down as I would expect but both sides behave the same. I can't detect any difference at all. I reassembled them one at a time using the other as a reference. I did not solder the valves closed on the butterflies.

Finally I did restore what I believe is the original plumbing to ventilate the crankcase and plumb the overflow back to the carbon canister. There's no air pump.

I'm hoping that whatever it is I won't have to take it all apart again! Quite a bit of fussing with the cables etc.:?

What say, you gents?

Thanks,

Dave

what was stock size steel wheel on Mk1 (>67)? (4 replies)

mac townsend — Wed, 22 May 2013 08:45:34 -0500

IIRC Rostyles didn't come along until after 67. was the original 4" steel wheel the only stock size (aside from wires) for the Mk1 cars?

Alternator Brushes (4 replies)

Spinal Tap — Tue, 21 May 2013 14:05:13 -0500

Anybody know how decipher Moss's online catalog when it comes to Alternator Brushes?

130-225 $3.95 BRUSH SET #23548, 23756 1
130-235 $3.80 BRUSH SET #23716 -on

What's the difference between these parts? I don't know how to read the "Application" numbers they have listed.

Help!

Thanks!

David

Not my best body repair... (4 replies)

jon.wright.lbc — Tue, 21 May 2013 12:11:55 -0500

So in desperate attempt to shelter our brand new car from the tornado that touched town 3 miles from my house, I learned that my two car garage is in fact a 3 car garage as long as two of them are MGs. I also learned the difference between REALLY closely parked and TOO closely parked... :(. it was a crappy paint job anyway, and I have a really good color match spray can (like perfect). not what I wanted to spend my weekend doing.. but oh well this will work till then

mgb gt quarter window vent seal (2 replies)

rkassed — Tue, 21 May 2013 11:11:41 -0500

Hi guys, I need to replace #5 in this diagram,
http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=7 any suggestions on how to go about doing this? Cant seem to find any info on it but I havent really looked all that hard at it on the car so maybe its obvious...

Mann oil filter for 74 MGB?? (10 replies)

rggavmge — Wed, 22 May 2013 20:25:01 -0500

I want to buy a Mann oil filter for my early 74 MGB. I read that the Mann oil filter were good. I searched the web and found that the W917 is listed for my 74 with a top mounted spin on filter. When I go to Amazon and put in my car, it says that this filter does not fit my car???? They say that the Mann W920/21 fits. Which is correct. Right now I have a Fram PH43 installed.

Question About A Small Oil Drip (17 replies)

Raleigh72MGB — Tue, 21 May 2013 13:35:11 -0500

Good morning:

My 72, which I have had about a month, has not leaked oil before. Today I took it out for about 35 minutes of spirited (but not wild) driving. I did my usual post drive check and discovered a small oil - puddle is too strong a word.

A picture is attached. The liquid on the right is coolant. The oil is on the left. It does not appear to be increasing.

As a new MG owner, should I be concerned about this? Thanks.

Works Hardtop seals (7 replies)

Kevin-A1 — Tue, 21 May 2013 19:42:40 -0500

Hi Guys

I'm looking to source the seal profile circled in the attached picture, its the one that goes under the aluminium framed side windows.

All help appreciated.

MGB Key ring? (7 replies)

carlsbadbob — Tue, 21 May 2013 19:22:27 -0500

I was looking on e-bay for an MG or MGB key ring. I thought I wanted something in leather and not big. Has anyone found one that they like? Thanks. Bob P

MGB int MB Dont Go!!! (4 replies)

Colinf007 — Wed, 22 May 2013 00:06:27 -0500

MGB into MB ceertainly dont go!!!!!!!
Had to drive 30 miles like this, The Merc has to go!!!!!

Fual Tank Sender (no replies)

Colinf007 — Tue, 21 May 2013 08:27:07 -0500

Hi All
I am rebuilding my 1975 Roadster and abou to fit a fuel tank, I have a Rubber bumper model tanks in pristine condition which I believe has the pick up pipe attached, Can I use the sender for this tank with the Smiths fuel gauge, or has some fiddling to be done regarding calibration?
Thanks

inherited 77 mgb/newb ? (13 replies)

imwalkin — Thu, 23 May 2013 11:08:46 -0500

hello everyone... I have inherited my fathers 77 mgb.... its in amazing shape...but as with any car or its age anything rubber is failing...so I have had the car a year...it starts and drives fine...but the clutch is leaking bad from the slave... I just ordered a new one, looks straight forward enough to swap. the car also has over drive! YES! and it looks to be leaking fluid from the filter/gasket area...unless its the leaky slave squirting? ordered the filter as well...my question is... does the OD share the same fluid as the main tranny? to check the level of fluid do I really have to remove center console? is 30w what I should use? will anything pop out if I remove the plate on the OD? any info on this subject and advice would be helpful...I searched a lot and got a few different opinions...does Bentley make a manual for MGs? I would be lost without mine for my corrado!
thank you for any and all help...I am excited to keep my fathers baby alive and well!
-Mike

Powerball and rusty cars........ (8 replies)

balloonfoot — Tue, 21 May 2013 18:51:14 -0500

no win either way.....