I was in a local parts house the other day looking at oils and was pleased to see that the new Castrol Edge in 5-50 says right on the label, formulated for classic cars. On the back it says, increased levels of zinc for flat tappet cams. I love it. I am a fan of 5-40 and 5-50 wt synthetic oils because of their more or less constant viscosity, and so in about another month I'm due for a change and will be trying the Castrol. http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026014#msg-2026014 Wed, 22 May 2013 07:14:38 -0500 Phorum 5.2.15a http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2028945#msg-2028945 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2028945#msg-2028945 Quote: I use full 20W-50 synthetic in Green B. The reasoning is that in very hot weather when the engine temp is just above the N the oil lubricates well and isn't suppose to loose its' properties due to high engine temperatures.
When we went on a road trip in May that involved a OAT of 10 degree F, coasting down a long mountain road and the engine cooled down to 1/4 of the way between N and C the oil pressure stayed consistent.
You are correct about the virtues of synthetic in hot weather (or if the engine overheats). Given that you encountered quite cold temperatures in your trip, you might have preferred the 5w-50. All the benefits of 20w-50 in hot conditions and much better performance in the 10F temperatures.]]> ingoldsb MGB & GT Forum Mon, 02 Apr 2012 01:07:49 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2027996#msg-2027996 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2027996#msg-2027996 When we went on a road trip in May that involved a OAT of 10 degree F, coasting down a long mountain road and the engine cooled down to 1/4 of the way between N and C the oil pressure stayed consistent.
Synthetic will lubricate better thru a wider range of engine operating temperatures.
The stuff is a lot slipperier than dino oils.
Oil and filter changes are still every 4000 miles.
The synthetic oil doesn't leak from the engine either or end up going out the exhaust.]]> Jim1971 MGB & GT Forum Sun, 01 Apr 2012 01:52:07 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2027988#msg-2027988 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2027988#msg-2027988 trewjohn2001 MGB & GT Forum Sun, 01 Apr 2012 01:21:53 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2027974#msg-2027974 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2027974#msg-2027974 DB Wood MGB & GT Forum Sun, 01 Apr 2012 00:19:24 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2027794#msg-2027794 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2027794#msg-2027794
Personally I favor parafin-based straight 30-weight from Big Lots for $.99 a quart. But my GT is a bit more persnickety so I pander to it with Castrol. (I wish it still smelled like it did in the 60s)]]> favedave MGB & GT Forum Sat, 31 Mar 2012 19:37:00 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2027730#msg-2027730 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2027730#msg-2027730 trewjohn2001 MGB & GT Forum Sat, 31 Mar 2012 18:20:56 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2027673#msg-2027673 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2027673#msg-2027673
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915470&contentId=7032644

Note that the new 5w-50 is the replacement for 20w-50 - and better in every way!]]> ingoldsb MGB & GT Forum Sat, 31 Mar 2012 17:30:49 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2027670#msg-2027670 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2027670#msg-2027670 Quote: I've always been uneasy about the wording on the label--"Increased antiwear additive to help prevent flat tappet camshaft wear" It doesn't mention zink/phosphorous and inquiries about what the additives are fell on deaf ears at Castrol.
I think you are unnecessarily concerned. Castrol's website seems to be gimped right now, but the cached version of the page (on Google) shows the additive to be ZDDP. If/when Castrol's website recovers, you should be able to see the whole page at http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915470&contentId=7032644

This page doesn't show the level of ZDDP, but I know I found it before and I seem to remember it was ~1200 ppm (1150 seems to stick in my mind).]]> ingoldsb MGB & GT Forum Sat, 31 Mar 2012 17:26:53 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2027610#msg-2027610 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2027610#msg-2027610 9146 MGB & GT Forum Sat, 31 Mar 2012 15:59:59 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2027583#msg-2027583 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2027583#msg-2027583 I've always been uneasy about the wording on the label--"Increased antiwear additive to help prevent flat tappet camshaft wear" It doesn't mention zink/phosphorous and inquiries about what the additives are fell on deaf ears at Castrol.
I don't want an oil that helps prevent the wear--I want one that does prevent it. I just bought a case of Brad Penn 20w50 patial synthetic high performance oil that "Contains high zinc and phosphorous additive concentrations..."
Ted]]> bearun MGB & GT Forum Sat, 31 Mar 2012 15:32:33 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2027073#msg-2027073 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2027073#msg-2027073 Quote: Where do people get away with calling a 50 weight oil "thin"? Are they reading it wrong?
Clearly a 50 grade straight weight oil would be very thick. But in this case, we are talking about 5w-50. So, at cold temperatures the oil behaves like a 5 weight oil (in the "w" winter or cold test) and like a 50 weight oil in hot temperatures.

In actual fact, multi-grade oil is actually closer to being constant viscosity - hot or cold. I'm not sure if that makes it thick or thin. :)

If you ever try to pour 20w-50 oil in very cold weather, it has the consistency of honey! 5w-50 pours easily in very cold temperatures, but is no thinner than 20w-50 at full engine operating temperature. It is really the best of both worlds. Easy flow on startup with no breakdown at high temperatures. Plus most (all ?) of the 5w-50 oils I've encountered have adequate ZDDP for our engines.]]> ingoldsb MGB & GT Forum Fri, 30 Mar 2012 21:20:25 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026703#msg-2026703 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026703#msg-2026703 In reply to # 2026683 by Scott P Where do people get away with calling a 50 weight oil "thin"? Are they reading it wrong?
There is a misunderstanding. Dan and Terry are correct, in that 5w50 and 20w50 should both be 50 weight at hot operating temperatures. The lighter weight at colder temperatures can only be a good thing, as oil pressure would be achieved sooner, and full lubrication quicker. I'd try it, except that I don't have to drive my cars when it's below freezing, and I have a full shelf of VR1 that I bought on sale.]]> Rod H. MGB & GT Forum Fri, 30 Mar 2012 11:23:58 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026683#msg-2026683 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026683#msg-2026683 Scott P MGB & GT Forum Fri, 30 Mar 2012 10:57:50 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026676#msg-2026676 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026676#msg-2026676
20/50 - 18F to over 100F (-10C to over 40C)
20/40 - 18F to over 100F (-10C to over 40C)
10/50 - -5F to over 100F (-20c to over 40C)
10/40 - -5F to over 100F (-20c to over 40C)
10/30 - -5F to 50F (-20c to 10C)
5/30 - -25F to 15F (-35C to -10c)
5/20 - -25F to 15F (-35C to -10c)]]> oily-hands MGB & GT Forum Fri, 30 Mar 2012 10:53:04 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026597#msg-2026597 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026597#msg-2026597 NNN MGB & GT Forum Fri, 30 Mar 2012 09:11:16 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026430#msg-2026430 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026430#msg-2026430 nlneilson MGB & GT Forum Fri, 30 Mar 2012 03:22:34 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026420#msg-2026420 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026420#msg-2026420 the omega man MGB & GT Forum Fri, 30 Mar 2012 01:56:59 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026398#msg-2026398 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026398#msg-2026398 Quote: I don't understand why people think that because it has a 5 as the first number that its too thin or there might be a problem with it. The 5 is the same viscosity as a 5 when cold. The 50 is same as a 50wt when warm. The difference in these viscosities is minimal. I have a friend that runs a drag boat with a hot 460 Ford. He runs 5-40 synthetic because the engine never gets warm and he needs to have something that has a constant viscosity. One of the things that wears our engines out is the warm up mode. Too heavy an oil in the cold is BAD. 20-50 oil will NOT work well in my climate year round.
YES!!

Quote: You won't get the film thickness nor durability you need with the relatively wide clearance engine in "old school" engines like the B.

Several months ago I posted the bearing clearances for my 2011 Chevy Cruze and compared them to my 1971 MGB. The maximum clearance values were very comparable. And modern synthetic oils have stronger film strength than the dino oils of 1971 vintage. Note that Royal Purple states that you can safely move one full viscosity range thinner with their oil and still maintain equivalent protection.

http://www.lemd.com/motorsport/previous.cfm?id=21

Quote: When these engines, not just MGB but BMW and most all other similar era foreign engines, were produced 20W-50 at "normal ambient--not sub zero stuff--was what was specified almost uniformly. Not that 5W was available but 10W was and it was avoided...for, presumably, a good reason.

This is not true for the MGB. The factory manual for the MGB clearly recommends 5w-30 oil in cold temperatures, 10w-40 for moderate temperatures and 20w-50 for warm/hot climates. 20w-50 was NOT the all round recommended oil (except perhaps in areas like California).

The only reason why the factory didn't recommend 5w-50 in the 1960s/1970s was that such oils really didn't exist. Now that they do, they are ideal for our engines. They behave like low viscosity oils during cold startups but do not thin out as the temperature rises.

Quote: How much a litre..Terry?

I got the 4 litre jug at Canadian Tire - I don't remember the exact price but it was similar to any of the other synthetics.]]> ingoldsb MGB & GT Forum Fri, 30 Mar 2012 00:50:50 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026391#msg-2026391 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026391#msg-2026391 mac townsend MGB & GT Forum Fri, 30 Mar 2012 00:40:40 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026383#msg-2026383 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026383#msg-2026383 DB Wood MGB & GT Forum Fri, 30 Mar 2012 00:35:27 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026362#msg-2026362 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026362#msg-2026362
I may think you are wrong, but it is your engine.

You won't get the film thickness nor durability you need with the relatively wide clearance engine in "old school" engines like the B. These ultra light weights came about as the mfgrs tried to find waysa to reduce parasitic as far as they could in order to squeak out another 0.1 mpg in the CAFE average, regardless of long term effects (long term they don't care about because the warranty's gone then, short term is warranty country and it won't make a lot of difference then given the changes made to the parts) and in the process materials and machining techniques and tolerances were changed.

When these engines, not just MGB but BMW and most all other similar era foreign engines, were produced 20W-50 at "normal ambient--not sub zero stuff--was what was specified almost uniformly. Not that 5W was available but 10W was and it was avoided...for, presumably, a good reason.

Now race-prepped engines these days seem to use thinner oils, but again the machining conditions are different. (though I think the 5W racing oils are not used much in old style engines, but in newer lumps like the Ford Duratechs and other new stuff )

Extreme conditions are irrelevant.

If you were in -40°F, 10W-30 is no good, I know. I burned up an engine in my TR4 using 10W-30 Esso oil one night at -30/40 in New York State. But that's not the issue.

Bend isn't -40 very often. Pretty soon Bend will be +110. And the oil will still be 5W when you fire up in the morning for awhile. You will see degraded oil pressure.

But, Dan, it's your engine. I wish you luck!

In reply to # 2026356 by DB Wood I don't understand why people think that because it has a 5 as the first number that its too thin or there might be a problem with it. The 5 is the same viscosity as a 5 when cold. The 50 is same as a 50wt when warm. The difference in these viscosities is minimal. I have a friend that runs a drag boat with a hot 460 Ford. He runs 5-40 synthetic because the engine never gets warm and he needs to have something that has a constant viscosity. One of the things that wears our engines out is the warm up mode. Too heavy an oil in the cold is BAD. 20-50 oil will NOT work well in my climate year round.
Terry lives in even more extreme conditions and the 5-50 is good for his climate year round. I can have frost in July or August here but my oil pressure remains constant because of the 5 number. I don't warm my car up, I just drive off. When I get out on the pavement in a quarter of a mile, the oil pressure is at 80psi and then settles out at 75 when fully warm. With 20-50 the oil pressure was less when cold, then it would max out before it was totally warmed up and then it would drop a little. I like seeing max oil pressure right away. That's what I am getting with 5-40 synthetic.
Years ago in Maine even when it was zero out, the MG would start but the oil pressure would stay around 45 until it warmed up. I was doing damage to the lower end and the cylinders. The oil was not lubricating. Oil has come a long way since then (1972) but cold climates need something other than 20-50 for a few months of the year if you drive year round.

]]> mac townsend MGB & GT Forum Thu, 29 Mar 2012 23:56:24 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026359#msg-2026359 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026359#msg-2026359 the omega man MGB & GT Forum Thu, 29 Mar 2012 23:43:09 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026356#msg-2026356 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026356#msg-2026356 Terry lives in even more extreme conditions and the 5-50 is good for his climate year round. I can have frost in July or August here but my oil pressure remains constant because of the 5 number. I don't warm my car up, I just drive off. When I get out on the pavement in a quarter of a mile, the oil pressure is at 80psi and then settles out at 75 when fully warm. With 20-50 the oil pressure was less when cold, then it would max out before it was totally warmed up and then it would drop a little. I like seeing max oil pressure right away. That's what I am getting with 5-40 synthetic.
Years ago in Maine even when it was zero out, the MG would start but the oil pressure would stay around 45 until it warmed up. I was doing damage to the lower end and the cylinders. The oil was not lubricating. Oil has come a long way since then (1972) but cold climates need something other than 20-50 for a few months of the year if you drive year round.]]> DB Wood MGB & GT Forum Thu, 29 Mar 2012 23:38:32 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026328#msg-2026328 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026328#msg-2026328 Bankerdanny MGB & GT Forum Thu, 29 Mar 2012 22:52:24 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026276#msg-2026276 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026276#msg-2026276
PS: If you must have it, I found it cheapest at K Mart; $7.99]]> forestghost07 MGB & GT Forum Thu, 29 Mar 2012 21:56:43 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026264#msg-2026264 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026264#msg-2026264 mac townsend MGB & GT Forum Thu, 29 Mar 2012 21:49:06 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026109#msg-2026109 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026109#msg-2026109 In reply to # 2026051 by mgtacar Paul, it will be interesting to see if it's less than the Valvolinr VR1, 20w50 that I've been using.It is over $7.00/ liter
Steve...yes it will for sure.

At over 7 bucks a litre up here it's worth the drive across the line to buy it on sale especially when you have been in the US for 48hrs.]]> PaulM MGB & GT Forum Thu, 29 Mar 2012 19:03:41 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026054#msg-2026054 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026054#msg-2026054 spikemichael MGB & GT Forum Thu, 29 Mar 2012 18:21:44 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026051#msg-2026051 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026051#msg-2026051 mgtacar MGB & GT Forum Thu, 29 Mar 2012 18:20:14 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026039#msg-2026039 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026039#msg-2026039 PaulM MGB & GT Forum Thu, 29 Mar 2012 18:09:48 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026020#msg-2026020 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026020#msg-2026020 ingoldsb MGB & GT Forum Thu, 29 Mar 2012 17:42:01 -0500 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026014#msg-2026014 http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,2026014,2026014#msg-2026014 DB Wood MGB & GT Forum Thu, 29 Mar 2012 17:37:39 -0500