This winter I would like to have the gearbox gone through so we pulled the engine and box out of the parts car so any needed parts could be salvaged. Engine was pulled the farmer way...borrow one wheel tractor and lift it out with the bucket. Total job took less than 3 hrs.
Installed new glass into the bottom rail of the frame with one of the side pillars already connected. This required then adding the remaining pillar to the windshield and using the tie down rachets to make the bottom rail to pillar connections first. Then using the rachet straps to install the top rail to frame. With a liberal amount of astroglide it all came together. The dash board was lifted off the cowl and the windshield was set in. Had to start with the bolt on the driver's side closest to the driver with the assistance of a c-clamp. Then started the center bolts that tie the center windshield stay to the dash top. Then moved to the passenger's side with the c-clap and started the bolt closest to the passenger. Once that was started then the two center bolts on the stay were brought all the way down to compress the bottom rail gasket down on the car. Then moved back to the driver's side with the c-clamp to start the last pillar bolt and then moved to the passenger's side to do the same. Once all had been started then they all could be snugged up. Took about 3 hours.
When taking apart the frame I was unable to remove the two bottom screws that attached the bottom rail to the driver's side windshield pillar. The passenger's side did come free so after removing it and the top rail, all the channels were cleaned and the frame was preassembled with the new glass (w/o rubber gasket)just to assure everything was straight. I had two other windshield frames and each had the same problem of rusted bottom rail to side pillar screws. It must be a result of living in the wet northwest! The only thing to do I suppose is if you can't get one side free you have to drill out the screws and retap.
Since last summer's carb switch worked, the dizzy was sent out to be recurved from the weber set up. Having got that back, its been installed and now it's time to tackle the cracked windshield before spring.
I've been battling for the last 3 years a DCOE that a PO had put on the B and lately haven't been able to solve a fuel drip coming from the carb to manifold junction. Looking at the bottom of the weber there was a line of JB weld which suggests an earlier crack repair. Anyway, it was either get another weber or switch to the stock su's. Since I had a set of su's on the parts car of unknown condition I decided to at least give them a try and see what would happen... nothing to lose. A few weeks later and I've got a set up that works. The su's wouldn't tune with the crankcase breather line hooked up to the carbs so I vented it like an early B down the side of the block and out underneath. Adjusted the timing to about 20 btdc and bought some KN filters. Today I'll drive the car with the filters for the first time to see how she runs on the road.
The rollbar is kind of a pain when it comes to folding or raising the top but since we live in a rural area it was reinstalled. With the curvey, narrow, 2 lane roads here, accidents overwhelming involve cars leaving the road and in which case typically results in a roll over.