MGB & GT Forum

My pain management doctor asked me about me B on my last visit. I told him the car was looking and running beautifully, which means I need to be ready for something coming soon. I was right. Not long afterwards my break booster went out. Ofcourse, as with all repairs it seems, led to the "might as wells.". A couple other minor issues, including my heater valve pissing on my distributor, then today...

Stopped off at the store on the way home from work. Came out to see a stream of wetness coming from under the car leading to a drain three cars over. Didn't think much of it until I noticed steam coming from the hood. My radiator hose broke. I put on the old hose I still had - nothing wring with it, just decided to go new and different year when I changed up Carb. But, another "might as well" - changing the thermistat cover to add a sensor for electric fans ill be adding (another question for a different thread). Two bolts snapped! Questions are: 1. How do I get them out? Extractor or what? And 2. I think I remember something about changing to bolts. Is that possible and if so, what size?

Thanks in advance.

On a positive note, I did get my servo put in. No wiring done yet, but the hard part is done.

Curtis:

To replace the studs I used Grade 8 5/16-18 x 1 1/4"

Sears sells a couple different kits for getting the broken studs out. Work slow and be patient.

Lann

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Lann Mauck
Three Main LLC
Desktop Badge Bars and other odds and ends
www.ThreeMainLLC.com

EZ out

how with an NPT sensor in that hole isn't it going to interfere with thermostat operation?
Most install a collar to raise up the tstat and mount the NPT into the collar.

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I'm hoping it won't interfere. I may run without a t-stat if necessary. I don't use the car year round.
This idea was recommended to me by another member on here. Theyve been EXTREMELY helpful this far.

Thanks, ill have to look into to that.

The one drawback to using EZ outs is that they're prone to snapping off inside the frozen bolt that you're trying to remove. Left handed drill bits, on the other hand, allow you, after center punching the broken bolt, to remove a small amount of the bolt at a time. This reduces the possibility of having to try to get a hardened steel EZ out out of the broken bolt. They're readily available nowadays and are priced so that the average auto enthusiast can afford a set. RAY

X2 on the left handed drill bits, just make sure you centre punch in the absolute centre and work slowly and patiently.

Curtis one thing you have going for you, the factory thermostat studs are slightly harder than a pretzel , so they are easier to drill into. I do this repair on the milling machine at the shop, I got a system down, and it only take a few minutes, to this, kinda hard to do with engine in the car. There are these taper stud extractor that look like square edged drift, you drill the appropriate drill hole size, drive them in, and the clamp on them and take the broken stud out, I had to do this at the race track one time and a guy loaned one of these to me, worked like a champ,so I bought one when I got back home, had almoat 20 years

You can get a set pretty cheaply, here they have them at Summit for $5.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w80562


Use a center punch , so you can get a good starting point for drill, then the best drill bit but you can get your hands on. Work slow, be patient, for sure don't get in a hurry and break the drill bit in there I would also PBlaster it for a day, or two, and have map gas torch, or small propane torch ready for some heat if needed.


This the reason I use bolts here, once this has bit you in arse, it makes perfect sense to you then, why one would use bolts here. I tell folks no need to follow the factory down their path of ignorance on some things, the designing engineers never planned on being the one to have to fix it. of course they wouldn't break so easy if they had bought quality studs, instead of the cheapest damn thing they could find, but then it would also be a lot harder to fix if they did break, maybe that was the means to their madness

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Hap Waldrop
Acme Speed Shop
864-370-3000
Website: www.acmespeedshop.com
hapwaldrop@acmespeedshop.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2014-09-18 04:44 AM by Speedracer.

So what happens if you mess up?

Patience isn't a quality of mine and I messed up. Things went so well at first. Then as stated above, an extractor snapped on me. Also using left handed bits, the hole got too big and I stripped out one of the holes. As far as I can tell Im screwed and need another head...?

Until I get another head, could I just JB Weld the cover on? What other options do I have?

...most of the guys here are far better mechanics than I, so take my suggestions with a grain of salt, the only saving grace in them is that they work unfailingly......the heat wrench......pin point flame,cherry red the stud and the area around it,spray with water unil the sizzle/steam stops,squirt with oil for peace of mind if nothing else,then drill out small hole in stud tap in easy out and remove said irritation,easy peasy.....ya see,if you try to remove when hot stuff breaks,if you remove after red hot and a water douse, the rust has burned and turned to a grafite type substance and the water is a lubricant for it....this ain't conjecture....been there done that many times as all my stuff is rusty junk to start with....

Curtis,

Before you totally destroy the head, take it to an old mechanic and have it repaired. The older the better.

Adrian

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Home built Eaton M62 Supercharger with 8psi boost, 8:1 compression, custom "supercharger" cam from Schneider Cams, Mikuni HSR48 Carburetor, custom ground high ratio "stock" rocker arms, Maxspeeding rods with Teflon wrist pin buttons, custom aluminum cold air intake, CB Performance computerized ignition, Fidanza 9 pound flywheel, 1.44 exhaust valves in 48cc chamber head, matched manifolds, 2 1/4" exhaust system.

X2. I broke off a easy out in one of my thermostat studs also. I put the thermostat back on with only 2 studs and limped to my local MG mechanic. I'm not sure how they did it, but it came back with all new studs.

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“Ideological certainty easily degenerates into an insistence upon ignorance". Daniel Patrick Moynihan

In any debate, the side which strays from civil discussion is usually the side that lacks confidence in its debate position or in the merit of their arguments. Making personal attacks on the opponents instead of staying on the subject is also a sign of weakness.

Anyone who feels compelled to respond in kind to any perceived slight is often suffering from narcissism.

Going after a stud that was so stuck it broke off means you need to use a different tactic to get the broken stud out. An easy out isn't going to have as much cross sectional area as the stud you just broke off did originally. Better to drill the offending stud stump out. (requires large amounts of skill and patience) Or use the easy out with a brass wrench. (welding torch)The steps are; drill hole, Install easy out, heat area around the stud, remove stud.

If you totally blow it and bugger the hole beyond recognition, get the head in front of someone who can install a Helicoil and save the day.

Adrian

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Home built Eaton M62 Supercharger with 8psi boost, 8:1 compression, custom "supercharger" cam from Schneider Cams, Mikuni HSR48 Carburetor, custom ground high ratio "stock" rocker arms, Maxspeeding rods with Teflon wrist pin buttons, custom aluminum cold air intake, CB Performance computerized ignition, Fidanza 9 pound flywheel, 1.44 exhaust valves in 48cc chamber head, matched manifolds, 2 1/4" exhaust system.

pinkyponk......I used the word conjecture for a reason, cuz what I said isn't. I have pulled them from water outlets and manifold openings doing it exactly as I described...heads are easy as compared to tissue thin rusted sheetmetal where the same method works virtually every time to save a unobtainium piece of sheet metal. The whole reason for my process is that it requires negligable torque to remove the offending bolt if done as I say....like I said, I ain't the greatest mechanic, far from it, but having worked on acres and acres f rusted ****, I gots the process down...including studs from aluminum alfa and TR7 heads........