MGB & GT Forum
wattage of stock headlamps?
Posted by ukelelejack
ukelelejack
Jacky Franklin
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Apr 17, 2014 12:39 AM
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Might anyone, by chance, off the top of their head, know the wattage of the stock headlights?
I searched the forum using wattage, ect, as keys, no luck, and am not even sure I KNOW what came in the car orginally,
Thanks for any help...ukelelejack
I searched the forum using wattage, ect, as keys, no luck, and am not even sure I KNOW what came in the car orginally,
Thanks for any help...ukelelejack
Apr 17, 2014 12:58 AM
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ukelelejack
Jacky Franklin
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Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 17, 2014 01:01 AM
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Apr 17, 2014 03:01 AM
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Watts is watts and the halogen units will consume the same as ordinary bulbs or sealed beam units but give more light in exchange.
No problems with upgrading then but if you want to get the very best light output then do the relay mod and get the volts to the bulbs where the need to be, not being lost over useless meters of wire and through switches
I use 80/100W bulbs with relays and the light output is something to behold and is far superior to most modern cars which still use incandescent bulbs.
No problems with upgrading then but if you want to get the very best light output then do the relay mod and get the volts to the bulbs where the need to be, not being lost over useless meters of wire and through switches
I use 80/100W bulbs with relays and the light output is something to behold and is far superior to most modern cars which still use incandescent bulbs.
Apr 17, 2014 08:57 AM
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As I recall a North American sealed beam is less than 55 watts. I'll have to go look...
Adrian
Home built Eaton M62 Supercharger with 8psi boost, 8:1 compression, custom "supercharger" cam from Schneider Cams, Mikuni HSR48 Carburetor, custom ground high ratio "stock" rocker arms, Maxspeeding rods with Teflon wrist pin buttons, custom aluminum cold air intake, CB Performance computerized ignition, Fidanza 9 pound flywheel, 1.44 exhaust valves in 48cc chamber head, matched manifolds, 2 1/4" exhaust system.
Adrian
Home built Eaton M62 Supercharger with 8psi boost, 8:1 compression, custom "supercharger" cam from Schneider Cams, Mikuni HSR48 Carburetor, custom ground high ratio "stock" rocker arms, Maxspeeding rods with Teflon wrist pin buttons, custom aluminum cold air intake, CB Performance computerized ignition, Fidanza 9 pound flywheel, 1.44 exhaust valves in 48cc chamber head, matched manifolds, 2 1/4" exhaust system.
Apr 17, 2014 08:59 AM
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Of the 4 I have only one had the wattage written on it A GE "Atlas" it's rated at 60/50. This is just a plain old sealed beam. No halogen.
The LUCAS had writing on it but when I rubbed the dust away for a better look the lettering rubbed off with the dust.
Adrian
Home built Eaton M62 Supercharger with 8psi boost, 8:1 compression, custom "supercharger" cam from Schneider Cams, Mikuni HSR48 Carburetor, custom ground high ratio "stock" rocker arms, Maxspeeding rods with Teflon wrist pin buttons, custom aluminum cold air intake, CB Performance computerized ignition, Fidanza 9 pound flywheel, 1.44 exhaust valves in 48cc chamber head, matched manifolds, 2 1/4" exhaust system.
The LUCAS had writing on it but when I rubbed the dust away for a better look the lettering rubbed off with the dust.
Adrian
Home built Eaton M62 Supercharger with 8psi boost, 8:1 compression, custom "supercharger" cam from Schneider Cams, Mikuni HSR48 Carburetor, custom ground high ratio "stock" rocker arms, Maxspeeding rods with Teflon wrist pin buttons, custom aluminum cold air intake, CB Performance computerized ignition, Fidanza 9 pound flywheel, 1.44 exhaust valves in 48cc chamber head, matched manifolds, 2 1/4" exhaust system.
Apr 17, 2014 09:27 AM
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Check out the Moss sealed beam halogen headlamps (171-105). They're only $19.95 each and make a startlingly brighter difference from the stock sealed beams. I have them on my car and they are brighter than the HID headlights on my daily driver.
As others have said, take this opportunity to install relays for both high and low beams.
“Ideological certainty easily degenerates into an insistence upon ignorance". Daniel Patrick Moynihan
In any debate, the side which strays from civil discussion is usually the side that lacks confidence in its debate position or in the merit of their arguments. Making personal attacks on the opponents instead of staying on the subject is also a sign of weakness.
Anyone who feels compelled to respond in kind to any perceived slight is often suffering from narcissism.
As others have said, take this opportunity to install relays for both high and low beams.
“Ideological certainty easily degenerates into an insistence upon ignorance". Daniel Patrick Moynihan
In any debate, the side which strays from civil discussion is usually the side that lacks confidence in its debate position or in the merit of their arguments. Making personal attacks on the opponents instead of staying on the subject is also a sign of weakness.
Anyone who feels compelled to respond in kind to any perceived slight is often suffering from narcissism.
Donthuis
Don van Riet
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Apr 17, 2014 09:48 AM
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Original bulbs (called "duplo lamps" ) were only 45/50 Watts.
Nowadays, after a H4 conversion with relays to protect your headlight switch*) there is a wide selection to choose from. The minimum rating nowadays is 55/60 Watts, heavier ones exist, e.g. with these piercing "blue lights" made (un)popular by Mercedes and BMW. You may also choose the same power rating with extended lifetime, like Philips 4x versions.
In my rather recent unprotected past, I bought the last Philips -20% "low power or Green" versions of the H4 55/60 bulbs. They draw almost the same peak energy through the switch as the old 45/50 Watts duplo's. Now with the separate relais on dipped and high beam headlights installed last week, I however no longer need low power versions
*) PS Read Astley's excellent "MGB electrical systems" how to optimise and protect your MGB 12 Volts system with relays and the right fuses.
Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 2014-04-17 09:50 AM by Donthuis.
Nowadays, after a H4 conversion with relays to protect your headlight switch*) there is a wide selection to choose from. The minimum rating nowadays is 55/60 Watts, heavier ones exist, e.g. with these piercing "blue lights" made (un)popular by Mercedes and BMW. You may also choose the same power rating with extended lifetime, like Philips 4x versions.
In my rather recent unprotected past, I bought the last Philips -20% "low power or Green" versions of the H4 55/60 bulbs. They draw almost the same peak energy through the switch as the old 45/50 Watts duplo's. Now with the separate relais on dipped and high beam headlights installed last week, I however no longer need low power versions
*) PS Read Astley's excellent "MGB electrical systems" how to optimise and protect your MGB 12 Volts system with relays and the right fuses.
Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 2014-04-17 09:50 AM by Donthuis.
Apr 17, 2014 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Original bulbs (called "duplo lamps" ) were only 45/50 Watts
At the time of the MGB, lamps with bulbs were not allowed in North America. AFAIK the original sealed beams were the same as all other 7" North American cars 60/55w (or maybe it was 60/50). The real problem with the original sealed beams was the beam pattern. A sort of blob known as the DOT pattern.
The biggest improvement (IMHO) you can make to your headlamps is to move to European E-code pattern lamps. Most of these come with H4 halogen bulbs. As others have noted, the power consumption of a stock H4 is about the same as the old sealed beams.
You might check out Daniel Stern's lighting site (Google for that that). He has lots of info about beam patterns and relays.
One final comment. Almost anything is an improvement over the stock DOT sealed beams. However, the quality of the lens is very much related to price. You would probably like Cibie headlamps but they are about double the price of the entry level halogen lamps.
Terry Ingoldsby
terry.ingoldsby@DCExperts.com
ukelelejack
Jacky Franklin
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Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 17, 2014 02:39 PM
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Yes, I too had noticed the headlamp when I first had the car in the dark.....I am too old for these lights, thinks I.
So a fast upgrade to hal lamps seemed simplest, just could not seem to internet the wattage's, Thanks all for that info.
For Ernie and others that recommend relays, thank you, Never even occurred to me but now I'm prowling for units, again, thanks.
Bob, Thanks for the Moss lead, Looked on pages A26 and 90, and did not find them, I will call and ask, need bucket gaskets anyway.
Again to all...thanks guys for helping me build this car......ukelelejack
So a fast upgrade to hal lamps seemed simplest, just could not seem to internet the wattage's, Thanks all for that info.
For Ernie and others that recommend relays, thank you, Never even occurred to me but now I'm prowling for units, again, thanks.
Bob, Thanks for the Moss lead, Looked on pages A26 and 90, and did not find them, I will call and ask, need bucket gaskets anyway.
Again to all...thanks guys for helping me build this car......ukelelejack
ohlord
Rob C
A tiny Island off the coast of Washington State, N.W., USA
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1957 Land Rover Series I "EYEYIYI"
1957 Land Rover Series I "OVRLND" 1971 MG MGB 1971 MG MGB "Bedouin 2" & more |
Apr 17, 2014 02:49 PM
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Hella H4 7 inch.
If you go over wattage don't just install relays,install heavier gauge wire and HD sockets.
Stock wiring is to small to support 80/100W bulbs.
Also proper aiming is as important as increased lumens.
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Home of Project "INCARN8'
1957 Series 1 Land Rover electric VEHICLE CONVERSION
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If you go over wattage don't just install relays,install heavier gauge wire and HD sockets.
Stock wiring is to small to support 80/100W bulbs.
Also proper aiming is as important as increased lumens.
LNDRVR4X4.COM
Home of Project "INCARN8'
1957 Series 1 Land Rover electric VEHICLE CONVERSION
FIXITUPCHAP.COM
FIXITUPCHAP INCORPORATED
RD3 Radar/ Electronic Warfare Technician
VIETNAM 1969-1972
Apr 17, 2014 03:28 PM
Joined 15 years ago
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Apr 17, 2014 03:53 PM
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The factory sealed beam lamp was domed. The Hella halogen conversion (DOT and E-code) is a flat lens. The Cibie E-code (best light pattern) conversion is a domed lens. The Lucas conversion is a domed (poor light pattern, but cheap) lens. Most prefer the domed look on the B.
Light is all about volts! If you are experiencing voltage drop you will get less light, period. I have tested MGBs that have a 2 volt drop! Relays!!!! Watch out for the "gigawatt bulbs" claims. And 100 watt bulbs...careful...200 watts/13.5 volt (if NO voltage drop) = 14.8 amps, Relays are a MUST. Best to test your voltage drop, put in relays and buy quality conversion lamps and a clear 60/55 H4 bulb NOT made in China.
Even if you buy the Sylvania sealed beam lamps...Do a voltage Drop Test to be sure you are getting the most light out of them.
Light is all about volts! If you are experiencing voltage drop you will get less light, period. I have tested MGBs that have a 2 volt drop! Relays!!!! Watch out for the "gigawatt bulbs" claims. And 100 watt bulbs...careful...200 watts/13.5 volt (if NO voltage drop) = 14.8 amps, Relays are a MUST. Best to test your voltage drop, put in relays and buy quality conversion lamps and a clear 60/55 H4 bulb NOT made in China.
Even if you buy the Sylvania sealed beam lamps...Do a voltage Drop Test to be sure you are getting the most light out of them.
ukelelejack
Jacky Franklin
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Topic Creator (OP)
Apr 17, 2014 05:42 PM
Joined 10 years ago
272 Posts
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